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Mitsubishi Diamante Maintenance and Repair

I have been told by the dealer that my heater core needs to be replaced. It was leaking antifreeze onto the passenger side floor. The car only has 45,000 miles on it so this seems like something that may have been a manufactors defect. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if mitsubishi had recalled this part.
Thanks
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Comments

  • Please help? Ms Molly Diamante won't start. She's a '93 with DOHC V6 just like many 92-95 Diamantes and 3000 GT's. We made her battery go dead. We had her battery tested and charged. It's ok. Everything works, lights, radio, etc. However, when we turn her key. She clicks once and doesn't even try to turn over. She ran just fine before we ran the battery down. We have activated, set off, and de-activated her alarm. She still won't start. Please anyone? Can you please tell us how to get her started? Do we need to pull a plug or press a button to reset her ignition from being locked by the alarm?
  • mikeshaftmikeshaft Posts: 1
    I too have 2001 Mitsubishi Diamante, and I heard from
    different Diamante owners complain about their heater core had to be replace. I have 55,600 miles now and thank God
    I have met that problem yet but I had to replace two of my engine mounts . That cost me 563.00 at the dealer. The
    other day I had to replace the head gasker that was leaking, thank God that was under the power train warranty
    and also replace the oxygen senor. Last year the steering rack wwnt. That cost me $1500.00. Only , I almost forgot the tranmission pump seal has to be replace, that was under the power train warranty. This car ride nice, but never had a car break down so much. Hopefully in two years
    I will buy an Honda Accord. Mitsubishi sucks. I need a car that will lastme. I suggest you trade your car in for a Honda Accord or Toyota Camry. You can't go wrong. These cars have no resell value.
  • mrcamfmrcamf Posts: 1
    I was wondering if someone else has experienced the same problem....last week I turned my car on and the check engine light came on. Also when I looked at the dashboard, the indicator that tells you what gear you're in started switching in between neutral and drive. I drove my car to work and instead of it taking off when I hit the gas, it feels like it's sluggish, like something is holding it back. I figured it was a transmission problem, so I took it to a repair shop that specialized in those problems. The place I took it to told me that the car locked the transmission in 2nd gear for whatever reason, and that they wouldn't know what the real problem was until they physically removed/ inspected the transmission itself for 400 dollars. Before I hand someone half a grand, has anyone else experienced the same problem? Should I go to the dealership??? Any advice or opinions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    C. Foster
  • tlyetlye Posts: 1
    Have a 98 Diamante, heater core leak at around 38K to 40K miles, was cover by extended warranty.
  • Hey, did you find out what the problem was? I've just gotten the same thing on my 2002 Diamante, and if you know what's wrong it would make things easier for me as well. Thanks for any info you have.
  • is it a first gen Mitsu Diamante? If it is it has a HISTORY of a failing TCU (Trans. Control Unit). there are articles complaining of relays and diodes in the tcu failing ALL th Time. Its like a serious issue with these types. Unfortunately by the time the TCU fails, 99(% of the time the warranty for the vehicle has runout. Getting a new one from the dealership WILL cost u an arm and a leg. Mine is in the same dilemma and I an still trying to find one on the net.
  • HEY WHATS THE PROBLEM WITH THESE CARS? I'VE GOT A 92 DIAMONTE WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. I WAS TOLD THAT THE TRANNY WAS IN "LIMPMODE" IT IS STUCK IN ONE GEAR THAT ALLOWS THE CAR TO BE DRIVEN IN THE MAJORITY OF THE ODOMETER SPEEDS AT A HIGHER RPM. TALK ABOUT SUCKING HIGH GAS PRICES!!! IVE WORKED ON CARS FOR 15 YEARS AND NEVER CAME CROSS THIS ONE. A TRANNY SPECIALIST TOLD ME HES GUESSING THE PROBEM IS ELECTRICAL WITHOUT TAKING IT APART. "TCU"???????IS IT? IS THIS UNIT INSIDE OR OUT THE TRANNY? SOMEONE NEEDS TO COME UP WITH THE SOLUTION TO THIS PROBLEM WE ALL NEED HELP!!! IF ANYONE GOT ANY ANSWERS PLEASE! PLEASE! SEND ME AN EMAIL AT HLGRAMJR@YAHOO.COM
  • Transmission Control Unit
    A Transmission Control Unit is a device that controls modern electronic automatic transmissions. A Transmission Control Unit generally uses sensors from the vehicle as well as data provided by the Engine Control Unit to calculate how and when to change gears in the vehicle for optimum performance, fuel economy and shift quality.

    Electronic automatic transmissions have been shifting from purely hydromechanical controls to electronic controls since the early 1990’s. Since then, development has been iterative and today designs exist from several stages of electronic automatic transmission control development.

    The evolution of the modern automatic transmission and the integration of electronic controls have allowed great progress in recent years. The modern automatic transmission is now able to achieve better fuel economy, reduced engine emissions, greater shift system reliability, improved shift feel, improved shift speed and improved vehicle handling. The immense range of programmability offered by a Transmission Control Unit allows the modern automatic transmission to be used with appropriate transmission characteristics for each application.

    Input Parameters
    The typical modern Transmission Control Unit uses signals from engine sensors, automatic transmission sensors and from other electronic controllers to determine when and how to shift.

    Vehicle Speed Sensor
    (VSS) This may also be known as an output speed sensor (OSS). This sensor sends a varying frequency signal to the Transmission Control Unit to determine the current shaft speed of the output shaft or differential in a typical vehicle. The Transmission Control Unit uses tire size, gear ratios and final drive ratio to calculate the current vehicle speed.
    Turbine Speed Sensor
    (TSS) This may also be known as an input speed sensor (ISS). This sensor sends a varying frequency signal to the Transmission Control Unit to determine the current shaft speed of the input shaft or torque converter. The Transmission Control Unit uses this shaft speed to determine slippage across the torque converter and potentially to determine the rate of slippage across the bands and clutches.
    Transmission Fluid Temperature
    (TFT) This may also be known as Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT). This sensor determines the fluid temperature inside the transmission. This allows the Transmission Control Unit to modify the line pressure and solenoid pressures according to the changing viscosity of the fluid based on temperature. This can provide for more appropriate shifing in extreme temperatures and allow for temperature failsafe systems to take control.
    Output Parameters
    The typical modern Transmission Control Unit sends out signals to shift solenoids, pressure control solenoids, torque converter lockup solenoids and to other electronic controllers.

    Shift Solenoid
    Modern electronic automatic transmission have electrical solenoids which are activated to change gears. These solenoids range from very simplistic control in older automatic transmission designs to extremely complicated in very new automatic transmission designs. The way in which the soleniod is activated and when it is activated is chosen by the manufacturer of the transmission and can vary greatly from vehicle to vehicle.
    Pressure Control Solenoid
    Modern electronic automatic transmissions are still fundamentally hydraulic. This requires precise pressure control. Older automatic transmission designs may only use a single line pressure control soleniod which modifies pressure across the entire transmission. Newer automatic transmission designs often use many pressure control solenoids and sometimes allow the shift solenoids themselves to provide precise pressure control during shifts by ramping the solenoid on and off. The shift pressure affects the shift harness and shift speed.
    Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid
    (TCC) Most electronic automatic transmissions utilize a TCC solenoid to lock the torque converter electronically. Once locked, the torque converter no longer applies torque multiplication and will spin at the same speed as the engine (assuming the converter is fully locked). This provides a major increase in fuel economy and modern designs attempt to provide partial lockup in lower gears to improve fuel economy further.
    This entry is from Wikipedia, the leading user-contributed encyclopedia. It may not have been reviewed by professional editors (see full disclaimer)
  • deavendeaven Posts: 1
    Where is the internal Check Engine Light connection? Auto zone offers free Check Engine Analysis, but could not locate the connection to plug in their "meter". Does anyone know where it is located?

    I was told the the Check Engine light can come on if the gas cap is not fully tight. In that case once the cap has been tightened will the check engine light go off or does it have to be reset?
  • I had the same deal with my Diamante.. Last January,and the connection is behind that little clip on the dash next to the sterring column.. I had to replace two timeing sensors and also the CO2 sensor.. Not a cheap fix, nor a quick one..

    Back to the heater core guys.. Yeah, I have a 2000 LS and I also had to replace my heater-core at about 60K.. Not a cheap fix.. especially in the dead of winter..

    Anyone know how much work it takes to replace the front rotors.. I replaced the pads last fall with lifetime ceramics, but I know the rotors need to be swapped.. LOTS-O-GRINDING..

    Muchos gracias..
  • One more note, my rig also has an intermittant issue with on/off ramps.. It will seem to under-steer (from the back), if I make any sort of movement when continuing through an on/off ramp. I am not going excessivly fast, but it seems to want to sway left to right, sort of from the back.. almost to the point of loosing control.. And if I drive on Ice or snow, it seems to want to come out from under me, (fish tail of sorts) Could I guess at it? sure, maybe the rear struts, wheel drag, tires?? any help would be appreciated..
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,605
    Try pumping the rear tires up (only the rears) to 2-5 lbs over suggested, just as an experiment. You might have tires with very compliant sidewalls. The rear struts would have to be pretty much blown for them to contribute to that, but you are on the right track with that as well.

    MODERATOR

  • I usually run my rubber near the max posted on the side-wall.. (so close to 35-50 lbs) what is your next idea.. I tried to run less.. but it wants to get worse.. it is fine in the summer/dry-stuff... but if I hit the snow/rain.. it gets a bit exciting.. maybe new rubber???? your thoughts...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,605
    are these factory original tires? How many miles on the car?

    MODERATOR

  • I bought the car in 2002 and have only replaced the front rubber.. It had 56K on it when I bought it, and now shes turning 96K.. Not sure if they are factory or not, but I would not think so.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,605
    Well at those miles you could definitely be considering rear struts. As for the tires, you'd need a tire shop to judge how strong the sidewalls are and how good the tires are. There's only a few ways the rear of the car can move around like that---weak sidewalls, worn struts, or some really loose bushings in the rear suspension (something fairly obvious).

    MODERATOR

  • i bought this mitsu dia 94 with an infiniti car stereo(factory installed),when i turn it on it keeps asking for a code or it wont work...............i dont have a clue as to removing it for a serial number........any help on this
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,605
    You'll have to ask the Mitsu dealer but you may be out of luck on this because it's so old...or if you can find the seller ask them if they wrote the code down somewhere in the owner's manual.

    MODERATOR

  • I am having the same problom and mitsubishi diamante did not come with owner's manual so what i do
  • Have a 94 Diamante with 156 K bought with 17K on it. One of the bolts from the front tire has broken off and needs to be replaced. The shop says it will be $90 for putting in a $4 bolt. Is this something I can do myself. I know it involves taking the caliper off ? Not worked on cars before but with Xmas trying to save. Thanks
  • I have a 93 Mitsubishi diamante and the other day I was getting ready to leave for work and the car stated the shut off then the same again then it just kept turning over but not starting so i waited a few minutes tried it aging it stared then shut off. Later that night when I got home I tried it again and it stared just fine today as well but I don't know what the problem is and i don't know how to find out. I only payed 500 for the car to start with so I don't want to spend more than that just to diagnose it so if anyone has any suggestions please let me know.
  • Front rotors are generaly an easy job on any car for any backyard mechanic.How much did the heater core job cost,mine just went on a 2002 Diamante.It has about 53k miles.
  • Ok i have a similar car, i dont know whether yours is DOHC or SOHC but i doubt that makes a difference. To solve my problem I had to change the battery and altenator.
  • I have a 93 model... i took the time to call the dealership to find out how to get the code. You will laugh at this, they want you to take it to the nearest dealership and pay 45 bucks to take out the stereo to get the code, or you could take out the whole dash unit to get the serial number on top of the stereo unit and call it and then they will give you the code
  • you dont need remove the dash to get the stereo out........remove cent coin tray by shifter then 2 screws in the hole,then side of center console screws..then move shifter back as fas as can then stereo should be removable......find parts number and call mits. dealer get parts dept. and tell parts dept. the stereo part number and they will give you the code!
  • or go to this site for removal instructions.....hope it helps!
    http://www.carstereohelp.com/
  • hi misty,
    it could be as easy as the battery cables!
    check that all connections are clean at all the connections to the battery and the block!
    check both ends of the black cable(negative)
    check both ends of the red cable(positive)
    most times if the negative cable is loose you will experience this........i have and cleaned all connections and went from there.........good luck!
  • I had the battery check its fine. but the other night while i was driving it the engine shut off i waited a few min got it to restart drove it a short distance then shut of then restarted drove for a while puttered then shut off then restarted and i was able to get it home haven't driven it since then cause don't know whats going on. anyone have any suggestions?
  • I had a similar prob w/my 92 LS, except mine would run 4 about the first 45 min (when cold) in the am, then stall,would not start until it sat and cooled 4 about 15 min. then would run 4 another 5-10 min.Mine turned out 2 be the ECU.(Engine Control Unit). Found 1 online for 425.00(joined Planet Salvage). But yours sounds like a possible fuel pump problem. As an auto tech, I have seen this symptom more than a few times leading to the electic fuel pump. Pump is universal, so it is fairly inexpensive,but is located in fuel tank,high labor. easy 2 diag.-just have mech. friend install fuel pressure guage, make sure its up 2 spec.,& make sure it holds steady pressure w/key on. if not,replace. Hope this helps,E
  • I had antifreeze leakage on the driver's side carpet, odor and residue on inside of the windows -fog. (2002, 6 cyl., 3.5 liter).

    The Mitsubishi Service "greeter" told me the the heater core was on the passenger side and that the dampness under the driver's feet might be from a hole - going through water!

    I had a mechanic who fixed only heater cores replace it.
    He told me he had to remove the entire dash and huge number of fasteners.
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