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Mitsubishi Diamante Maintenance and Repair
tmicciche
Member Posts: 1
in Mitsubishi
I have been told by the dealer that my heater core needs to be replaced. It was leaking antifreeze onto the passenger side floor. The car only has 45,000 miles on it so this seems like something that may have been a manufactors defect. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if mitsubishi had recalled this part.
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different Diamante owners complain about their heater core had to be replace. I have 55,600 miles now and thank God
I have met that problem yet but I had to replace two of my engine mounts . That cost me 563.00 at the dealer. The
other day I had to replace the head gasker that was leaking, thank God that was under the power train warranty
and also replace the oxygen senor. Last year the steering rack wwnt. That cost me $1500.00. Only , I almost forgot the tranmission pump seal has to be replace, that was under the power train warranty. This car ride nice, but never had a car break down so much. Hopefully in two years
I will buy an Honda Accord. Mitsubishi sucks. I need a car that will lastme. I suggest you trade your car in for a Honda Accord or Toyota Camry. You can't go wrong. These cars have no resell value.
C. Foster
A Transmission Control Unit is a device that controls modern electronic automatic transmissions. A Transmission Control Unit generally uses sensors from the vehicle as well as data provided by the Engine Control Unit to calculate how and when to change gears in the vehicle for optimum performance, fuel economy and shift quality.
Electronic automatic transmissions have been shifting from purely hydromechanical controls to electronic controls since the early 1990’s. Since then, development has been iterative and today designs exist from several stages of electronic automatic transmission control development.
The evolution of the modern automatic transmission and the integration of electronic controls have allowed great progress in recent years. The modern automatic transmission is now able to achieve better fuel economy, reduced engine emissions, greater shift system reliability, improved shift feel, improved shift speed and improved vehicle handling. The immense range of programmability offered by a Transmission Control Unit allows the modern automatic transmission to be used with appropriate transmission characteristics for each application.
Input Parameters
The typical modern Transmission Control Unit uses signals from engine sensors, automatic transmission sensors and from other electronic controllers to determine when and how to shift.
Vehicle Speed Sensor
(VSS) This may also be known as an output speed sensor (OSS). This sensor sends a varying frequency signal to the Transmission Control Unit to determine the current shaft speed of the output shaft or differential in a typical vehicle. The Transmission Control Unit uses tire size, gear ratios and final drive ratio to calculate the current vehicle speed.
Turbine Speed Sensor
(TSS) This may also be known as an input speed sensor (ISS). This sensor sends a varying frequency signal to the Transmission Control Unit to determine the current shaft speed of the input shaft or torque converter. The Transmission Control Unit uses this shaft speed to determine slippage across the torque converter and potentially to determine the rate of slippage across the bands and clutches.
Transmission Fluid Temperature
(TFT) This may also be known as Transmission Oil Temperature (TOT). This sensor determines the fluid temperature inside the transmission. This allows the Transmission Control Unit to modify the line pressure and solenoid pressures according to the changing viscosity of the fluid based on temperature. This can provide for more appropriate shifing in extreme temperatures and allow for temperature failsafe systems to take control.
Output Parameters
The typical modern Transmission Control Unit sends out signals to shift solenoids, pressure control solenoids, torque converter lockup solenoids and to other electronic controllers.
Shift Solenoid
Modern electronic automatic transmission have electrical solenoids which are activated to change gears. These solenoids range from very simplistic control in older automatic transmission designs to extremely complicated in very new automatic transmission designs. The way in which the soleniod is activated and when it is activated is chosen by the manufacturer of the transmission and can vary greatly from vehicle to vehicle.
Pressure Control Solenoid
Modern electronic automatic transmissions are still fundamentally hydraulic. This requires precise pressure control. Older automatic transmission designs may only use a single line pressure control soleniod which modifies pressure across the entire transmission. Newer automatic transmission designs often use many pressure control solenoids and sometimes allow the shift solenoids themselves to provide precise pressure control during shifts by ramping the solenoid on and off. The shift pressure affects the shift harness and shift speed.
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid
(TCC) Most electronic automatic transmissions utilize a TCC solenoid to lock the torque converter electronically. Once locked, the torque converter no longer applies torque multiplication and will spin at the same speed as the engine (assuming the converter is fully locked). This provides a major increase in fuel economy and modern designs attempt to provide partial lockup in lower gears to improve fuel economy further.
This entry is from Wikipedia, the leading user-contributed encyclopedia. It may not have been reviewed by professional editors (see full disclaimer)
I was told the the Check Engine light can come on if the gas cap is not fully tight. In that case once the cap has been tightened will the check engine light go off or does it have to be reset?
Back to the heater core guys.. Yeah, I have a 2000 LS and I also had to replace my heater-core at about 60K.. Not a cheap fix.. especially in the dead of winter..
Anyone know how much work it takes to replace the front rotors.. I replaced the pads last fall with lifetime ceramics, but I know the rotors need to be swapped.. LOTS-O-GRINDING..
Muchos gracias..
http://www.carstereohelp.com/
it could be as easy as the battery cables!
check that all connections are clean at all the connections to the battery and the block!
check both ends of the black cable(negative)
check both ends of the red cable(positive)
most times if the negative cable is loose you will experience this........i have and cleaned all connections and went from there.........good luck!
The Mitsubishi Service "greeter" told me the the heater core was on the passenger side and that the dampness under the driver's feet might be from a hole - going through water!
I had a mechanic who fixed only heater cores replace it.
He told me he had to remove the entire dash and huge number of fasteners.
My question is this, what hardward did you need and where did you install it?
they can be replaced seperatly.
that info, it surely wouldn't be very much. I've already tried the maintenance program from edmunds, they don't have any info. I sure would appreciate it!!
I did the rotors on all four, and replaced the pads in the back for under $200.00, and about 2 hrs..
In response to my previous issue, the rear nuckle bushings were replaced and solved my problem.. apparently it is pretty standard on these cars.. $400.00 at the stealership.
As the seasonal temp rises my car starts to act up a bit. In stop/go traffic on a warm/hot day, my cars idle will slow almost to a stall, then jump back up.. If I put it in neutral, it stays fairly steady, then I pop it back in gear when I need to advance. I have a little less of an issue if I switch the A/C off, but then I sweat my balls off..
Any suggestions?? I was thinking I should replace the plugs.. I have at least 60K on them..
If that is a good idea, how do I get to these.. I can't seem to see them when I pop the hood..
suggestions??
Problem:
The engine starts than after a while the engine starts to get slower and then it stall.When I pop tthe gear into parking or reversing it doesn't go anywherre.It has a rattling sound underneath the machine when it does this..Please Help
Have another problem that actually predated the tranny. 97 Diamante starts fine first thing in the am and then is hard to start most of the day after that. Replaced the IAC, MAF, throttle body, egr valve, vacuum lines, spark plugs, distributor cap, TPS and a couple of other things that I can't remember. Has an erratic idle also, sometimes around 800 then up to 1800. When it is around 1800, you can bet it will die and be hard to start. Any ideas?
If you have automatic climate control, more than likly your bearings are going out on your blower-fan. I have had the same deal happen in other vehicles where the fan would not come on until you tapped the motor on the fan. You can deal with the 'chirping' or replace the fan or fan motor.
is their a cure to stop this rapid lock.......its annoying in bad weather.............thanks,Jeff
I have problems with my alternator. It is over charging the battery (which gets hot to a boiling point). My friend who is mechanic helped me replace the Alternator and the battery. I have both of them new. Now despite the new parts, the issue keeps coming back. I had to replace a second time the alternator and the shop agreed to give a new battery too. Today the mechanic told me that he needs to replace the Battery Relay (located in the fuse box).
On top of that, when I drive the car on the highway (60 mph), the car over heats. When it is stopped and on idle it looks normal. Are the issues related? Please help me come up with a solution. Thanks.
I actually went in and cleaned the throttle body, and valve.. It was a little tight in there, but I was able to smooth it out considerably...
In regards to the plugs.. you were speaking about the spark-plugs correct? if so, can you clear it up for me.. I still am boggled about how to change them.. do i actually have to remove the upper to get at the rear plugs??
any help would be appreciated..
Thank You!