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Oldsmobile Alero Starting-Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • jason78987jason78987 Member Posts: 1
    A friend of mine has an 03 Alero. Two weeks ago while going down the road the battery light came on. After stopping at a store when attempting to restart the battery was dead. We took out the battery & alternator and took them to Auto Zone to have them tested. The alternator tested fine but the battery tested bad. He replaced the battery. Two days ago while going down the road the airbag light came on. After a few seconds the radio turned off. Then a few seconds later all dash gauges stopped working. When attempting to give it gas to try to get off the road the car would just sputter so he put it into neutral. When he did the engine revved up to its rev limiter so he put it back in gear. After getting to a safe location we checked under the hood and looked for obvious signs of a problem. When attempting to restart the battery wouldn't start the car so we had it jumped. We then put in another new battery. With the 2nd battery in the car in an effort to get home the car did the same thing. Any ideas ??
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Sounds an awful lot to me like the charging system isn't working. Put a voltmeter on the battery (a good battery), it should read 12.6Vdc. Start the car, then read the voltmeter again. It should read around 14 - 14.5Vdc. I realize that you had the alternator checked, but I take those store checks with a grain of salt. Like in this case, you said that the battery was dead when you took it in to be tested. You can't test a dead battery, it has to be charged first.
  • annie2012annie2012 Member Posts: 1
    Recently I had the oil changed for my 2003 Alero (about 140,000 mi) and a few days later I made a right turn, then left turn, and the car stalled out. It restarted right away, but since that oil change it has felt like it was going to stall out on several occassions.

    The fuel pump and filter were replaced in 2009 (at 88,000 miles)

    I took it to my mechanic, who said he could find nothing wrong, but suggested replacing the fuel pump. Thoughts?

    He also suggest replacing the serpentine belt, which was replaced in 2008 (II believe the mileage was about 75,000). Thoughts?

    Thanks for your input.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    It's possible your stalling problems are connected to the oil change, if they overfilled your vehicle. Check the oil level, and if it is too high, take it back to the station and have them drain some off to set it to the correct level.

    Your mechanic may have measured the fuel pressure and found it somewhat low, which would explain why he thinks it may be a good idea to replace it. If you decide to take his advise on this matter, ask him why he suggested it, and find out if he did indeed, measure low fuel pressure. If you determine that he is just guessing, don't do it. Regardless, Replace the fuel filter before doing anything else, as this is a common cause of poor starting and stalling, and costs much less than a new fuel pump.

    The only reason your mechanic would have advised you to change the serpentine belt is if he found it worn or "weather-cracked", meaning it could break soon. It wouldn't have anything to do with stalling, but if he is a good mechanic, he would notice things that could go wrong in the near future.

    Go out now and check your oil level.

    Dick B
  • sheed76sheed76 Member Posts: 1
    annie2012, I have a 99 Alero and had the same issue a couple years back at about the same mileage. Whenever I would make a right turn or slow down while exiting the freeway the car would shut down. After taking it to my mechanic, who looked it over for a week and couldn't find the problem, I did some research online and found that it was the MAP sensor that was bad. Took it in to get replaced and haven't had the problem since.
  • ldub79ldub79 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Olds Alero 4 cyl w/64k mi. I have had for 11 yrs now. I've never had a problem until now. There was a hose that was dry rotted on the front of the motor and it was replaced. Soon after my car started stalling and shutting off after I would accelerate after being at a red light or when I put into reverse. I had spark plugs and wires replaced and also O2 sensors replaced and it still does it. I put fuel injector cleaner and HEET in just in case I got some bad gas and still the same problem. Now I was told it could either be fuel filter or pump next. How would I know b/c I hate to replace and not be the problem. I already had fuel filter replaced a couple yrs ago. Any suggestions??
  • youngmech63youngmech63 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 2000 alero with a 2.4l 4 cylinder. The vehicle will run fine without dying, then you might go out, and it will crank, but not start. Then go back again later and start like it has no problem. I have checked fuel pressure which was ok, and there is no security lamp on. When
    I check for spark and fuel injection signal, it has neither. I have tried a crank sensor and also the ignition module. Have read many posts here, but none with this "exact" issue. Am pulling hair out! If anyone has ideas, I'd be glad to hear them. Am thinking ECM...but have spent enough money and time on this vehicle already. Someone mentioned to me about wiring for the crank sensor, but have not seen anyone write about having that issue. Help....
  • shawn77shawn77 Member Posts: 1
    Im not expert on cars but I had the same problem with my car. I have been the same owner of my alero for 11 years and I researched this problem on the internet because I tool it to the mechanic and he coudnt figure it out because it would always start up while it was cooled off. It was the fuel pump. I had it replaced and has not had that problem again
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    The fuel pump could be the problem that satisfies the symptoms, except in the original message, it states that the fuel pressure is ok. Also, the fact that there is no injector signal, and no spark cannot be caused by a fuel pump. If the fuel pump were not working correctly, there would be no fuel pressure, but the original post says that fuel pressure is ok.
    You will not get injector pulses if there is no fuel pressure, but a fuel pump, or loss fo fuel pressure will not cause you to lose ignition pulses (spark)

    I'm inclined to suspect either defective wiring, or a problem with the Powertrain Control Moudle. A competent dealer should be able to diagnose the problem, or you could buy a service manual and go through the diagnostics yourself, and then take the vehicle to a GM dealer to have the correct part replaced.

    Dick B
  • youngmech63youngmech63 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply, but fuel pressure/supply isn't the issue. I have fuel pressure in the fuel rail, but I do lose spark AND injector signal. As I had stated, I have already tried new cam and crank sensors, along with ignition module. Plus, I have ruled out the "security" system being engaged as well. The problem I seem to be having is that the "no start" condition may only last for 1 key start, or for several minutes, then might be gone for a day, week, or even two before it happens again...which is making it so darn hard to figure out what is happening. Thanks again for your input tho :)
  • rockyb35rockyb35 Member Posts: 4
    I had a very similar issue with my '03 alero and was very intermittent until one day it would not start at all. I found that the wire harness for the powertrain control module was pulled very tight from the pcm and caused the pins in the connector for the pcm to spread out and not make good contact. I was able to recreate the problem my pulling on the harness by the pcm in different directions . I would be able to make the car stall or restartable by doing this. I did have to buy a new connector for the harness, but had to reuse the harness and pins in it. The pcm should be located behind the drivers side kick panel and is fairly easy to get to.
  • oldsalero25oldsalero25 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 alero with about 31,000 miles on it and about everytime I get an oil change this happens. It'll run great as I'm leaving and ill make a stop somewhere and I'll go to get back in my car and it won't start. Won't make a clicking sound nothing. My radio and some light will come on but nothing on the dash. Sometimes it will turn on if we jump it and other times jumping it won't work. I took it it several mechanics that said nothing was wrong with it. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    edited April 2012
    Okay, I have seen this problem before. I have mentioned this in the past but I am going to re-iterate the point. Oldsmobile, got a bad lot of ignition switches. Personally, the ignition switch is a defective design to begin with.
    I had the same problem with my 2000 Alero. After alot of studying and headaches along with a few cuss words, I finally decided to replace the ignition switch. I paid $94.00 for a new switch. It took me about an hour to replace it and all my issues went away. That was about 6 months ago and I have not had any issues with my car ever since.

    Daniel
  • rockyb35rockyb35 Member Posts: 4
    Probably a bad ignition switch. I had a similar problem where the car would start but had no instruments, radio or a/c.The problem was very intermittent. I found out these are very cheaply made. If you are careful you can disassemble the switch on a work bench and clean the contacts. If not a replacement is available at most auto parts stores. It does not require rekeyeing your car, that part will remain the same.
  • wilguenswilguens Member Posts: 1
    SLT TOUT LE MONDE, JE VIENS D ACHETER UNE VOITURE ALERO 2000, 2.4L,V6 POUR LA PREMIERE FOIS J ASSAYE DE DEMARRER MA VOITURE DEVANT CHEZ MOI, LA VOITURE NE DEMARRER PAS. QUAND J APPUIS SUR LE BRAKE LES LUMIERES SUR LE TABLEAU DE BORD ALLUMME ET ETEINT 3 SECONDES PLUTARD. QUAND JE METS LES HAUSSE DE LUMIERES, SUR LE TABLORD DE BORD TOUS LES LUMIERES ALLUMENT ET S ETTEINT APRES 3 SECONDES :mad: JAI ASSAYE DE LIRE LES CODES DE CHECK-ENGINE QUI ETAIT ALLUME SUR LE TABLEAU DE BORD, QUAND J AVAIS ACHETE LE VEHICULE, JE N ARRIVE MEME PAS A LIRE LES CODES DE CHECK-ENGINE :confuse: .STP AIDEZ MOI QUELQU UN TOUTE IDEE PEUT ETRE BONNE, MERCI
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    edited April 2012
    Merci de poster votre message, avec ponctuation approprié, et sans abréviation, pour que nous puissions traduire le message en anglais.

    (Please post your message again, with proper punctuation, and no abbreviations, so that we may translate the message into English, and possibly get an answer for you.)
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    edited April 2012
    Your host speaks decent French. Here's the gist:

    I just bought a 2000 Alero 2.4L V6. For the first time, I tried to start my car in front of my house and it wouldn't start. When I press on the brake, the lights on the instrument panel light up and turn off 3 seconds later. When I put on the high beams(?), all the lights on the instrument panel turn on and turn off 3 seconds later. I tried to read the check-engine codes for the instrument panel, but can't. Does anyone have any ideas, s'il tu plait? (please :))

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
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  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    Hi,

    I assume that it was working properly when you bought the car originally. The first thing that comes to mind is, the battery. Do you know if the battery is good? The systems on the car are very sensitive to voltage. If the battery has a low voltage the the computer systems are not operating correctly. The first thing I would suggest is if you don't know the history of the battery, I would replace it. If you have a volt meter available, check the battery for 12 Volts D.C. Also check the battery connections. If they are corroded, that too can cause problems. Check those things first and reply to this and let me know what you find out. If I need to I will get the wiring diagram out and study it. I will do everything possible to help you out.

    Daniel
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    First of all, thanks, Kristie, for the translation.

    I agree that the battery is the most probable cause of the problem. When the load of the headlights or brake lights is connected to the battery, the voltage is probably dropping too low for the electronics to work. If you have a voltmeter, connect it to the battery, and read the voltage. it should be between 13 and 14 volts with the ignition off. If it drops below 10.5 volts when the headlights are turned on, that is too low.
    Before replacing the battery, disconnect the terminals, insure that they are clean and corrosion free, and re-connect them. Make sure the battery is charged, and then see if you have the same symptoms.
    Another way to check, is to connect a 10 amp charger to the battery, and see if that allows you to operate the brake without having problems. If so, your battery is weak.
    Another possible cause of your problem is a loose ground point at some point in your vehicle, There are several of these in various locations on your car. You will need a service manual to locate these and run the troubleshooting procedures to determine if one is faulty.
    RB
  • mslolarmslolar Member Posts: 1
    I just bought my 2002 alero and 3 days ago and its already in the shop. i have read most of these post but has anyone ever figured out what the problem was with the dieing while its hot outside? If so i would like to know the trick! My mechanic has no idea what the problem is and where both stuck and hes a pretty good mechanic!! hellllppp please!
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    Hello mslolar,

    Here are a few questions. Does the car start at all? Does the car start and drive and after several minutes does it fail? Does it mostly fail during the day or night? What error lights are on? (for example: Service Engine Soon, Service Vehicle Soon, Security light on or flashing). In my experience, I have had similar issues. Once the Fuel regulator failed, The ignition switch failed twice, the coils failed, and the ignition module failed. Here is a break down of the parts. Fuel regulator $75.00 plus tax. Ignition switch WITHOUT KEY CYLINDER $95.00 plus tax. Coils $45.00 plus tax there are 2 of them. I can not remember what the ignition module cost was but it was rediculusly high. Those prices are just part prices only, it does not include labor.

    However, I still have my Alero and I love driving it.

    Let me know if you need more help

    Daniel
  • rodney14rodney14 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 oldsmobile alero, that runs fine in town, but once on the highway it shuts down, i have to wait for 15 minutes before the car will start back up, any ideas on what could be wrong
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    Rodney,

    More information please. After the 15 minute wait, the car starts. Does it then run okay on the highway? Do you notice anything happening just prior to the engine stalling? For Example, hesitation or sluggish acceleration. Are there any warning lights that come on on the dash board? I can name 8 or 10 possibilities. But I would rather narrow it down for you.

    Let me know

    Daniel
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Here is my list of possibilities.
    * Starving for fuel at high speed. Possibly from clogged fuel filter, or Fuel pump not supplying enough pressure.
    * No Spark. Ignition module failing at higher temperature, Since there are two coils, I wouldn't suspect a coil, unless both are failing at the same temperature.
    It is not likely that timing is bad, since it runs ok in city driving. I'm assuming acceleration from traffic signals is OK.
    I would rule out the Passlock system, since it will not shut the engine off while cruising... It will only illuminate the "SECURITY" light.

    As others have said, getting a better guess would involve more information, or hands-on observation.

    Dick Berger
  • scooty1204scooty1204 Member Posts: 1
    I know it has been a while since you posted this issue, but I am currently having the exact same problems. Auto lights not working, keyless entry not working, trunk release not working, and dome lights not working along with the starting issue. Seems like it is either the passlock system or BCM....I was just wondering if you ever figured out the issue. Thank you for your time and hope to hear back.
  • ekatiekati Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2013
    Just bought a used 2003 Alero and only had 93 thousand miles. Just yesterday it was having some issues starting and now today the car had to get towed back to my house because now the RPM Gauge or whatever you call it, doesn't move it is staying at 0 and there is no security light or any other lights on. It turns over and it tries to start but it won't crank over to start now. Any help would be great, now I have no way to work. :(
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Ekati,
    It turns over and it tries to start but it won't crank over to start now.
    Sounds like you are saying that the starter motor is spinning up the engine, but the engine isn't firing up and running. This suggests that the engine is either not getting spark, not getting fuel, or is not timed right. Check these three items first.
    RPM Gauge or whatever you call it, doesn't move it is staying at 0
    Yes. It's normal for your tachometer to stay at zero until the car starts, and since yours isn't starting, that's what's happening. Once you get it started, it will register the correct RPM.

    there is no security light or any other lights on.
    THAT is extremely unusual. When you first turn the key to the ON position, you should have a short period when ALL the warning lights are on. This is the "bulb check". Then the warning lights should go out, leaving only the OIL, BATTERY, and "Service Engine Soon" lamps on. Once the engine is running, these lamps should extinguish. If you don't get any lights to go on, there is probably something wrong with your ignition switch, or your wiring. This could also possibly be a blown fuse that furnishes power to the dash lights. You will need a service manual to tell you which fuses to check.
  • artgirl774artgirl774 Member Posts: 2
  • artgirl774artgirl774 Member Posts: 2
    **2nd post**First one did not seem to post?***Hi folks--thank you in advance for any info or insight you may offer. 2004 Alero 4cylinder automatic (2.2 Ecotec), 102K miles. Purchased 5 weeks ago, and have put just over 500 miles on it. It has started, and driven beautifully every day until this morning. Started right up this morning. Stopped at a store on my way into work, made my purchase, went back out, and it started right up again. Drove approx. 500 feet out of the parking lot to turn into traffic. Right as I turned into traffic, the car died. Attempted to start several times to get out of the road (it did start and then died within 1-2 seconds each time--but battery light would stay on), until a nice man took pity on me and pushed me out of traffic. Called a tow truck--it again started and died. Tow driver theorized it may be fuel related (no prior incidents since I've owned it, purchased as is--I have no service records). Towed home where it is sitting now. Husband read up on Passlock security info, but it still does not seem to want to start after 3+ hours of sitting (he read about resetting it after ten minutes). Of course money is tight, and I'm frustrated. Could it just be the battery, since it actually started and drove out of the store parking lot? I don't have $$$ to go to the mechanic, or to throw money down on guesses. Any info or advice is appreciated. Thank you.
  • drumrickdrumrick Member Posts: 1
    im having the same exact problem as you did along with the trunk popping open by itself. did you find a remedy? i also have a 2001 alero. my mechanic cant figure it out either after 2 weeks. HELP !!! Thanx
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    Hey Drumrick,

    For what it is worth, I have a 2001 Alero. I bought it in 2009 for $2500 she had 101 thousand miles on her. Since I have had that car, I have yet to have problems with the BCM or the ECM. (Now with that said, They both will fail tomorrow, that would be just my luck.) But anyhow, in the last 4 years, I went through 2 fuel regulators, a set of coils, an ignition module, a starter and the ignition switch. All of that was within the first year of owning it. She currently has 184K miles on her. In my experience with my car, all electrical issues have been traced back to the ignition switch. I remember with the original switch from the factory if the outside air temp was below 50 degrees the car would not start. The starter would hit but no fire in the cylinders. and the trunk would randomly pop open and the door locks would unlock as if I was turning off the ignition switch. Onto a different subject and car, I have a 95 GEO Tracker, she has a problem with not idling at 750 RPM. The engine idles at 3000 RPM. I still have not figured that out yet. I am thinking it is the ECM.

    But anyhow, that is my 2 cents worth,

    Daniel
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    This is NOT a passlock problem. It could be many things. Check these:
    * Fuel Filter [just replace it. it's cheap, and at 102,000 miles, it should be replaced anyway.
    * Fuel pressure at the fuel rail. [get a service manual for instructions on checking this]
    * Read out trouble codes through the ALDL connector. [a scan tool that connects by bluetooth to your smart phone or android tablet costs only $12 - $25 on ebay, and an App called "Torque" is free at the Google Play store.] You will then be able to read the engine trouble codes, and diagnose what is causing the no-start condition.
    * You may have a bad crank position sensor, which can cause stalling. [A trouble code will be set if this is the case.]
    * you may have a defective catalytic converter, in which the catalytic beads have blocked the exhaust, causing back-pressure in your exhaust system. [this will cause an oxygen sensor trouble code to be stored.]
    * you may have a bad ignition module, causing only half your cylinders to fire, which could cause stalling. [This would be indicated by a missfire trouble code]

    Good luck, and I hope you find the problem. A 2004 Alero is a nice, economical car to drive, if you can get it running right. (hope it's a stick shift. They are the best!)

    Dick Berger
  • ajb15ajb15 Member Posts: 1
    2003 Alero. Initial problem is the car would not start. Changed the starter, still no start. Did the secruity of 10 minutes with the key in on position, then the car started. Car ran for 1 week. Car died again. Tried the secruity thing again. Car ran for 1 block and died while driving. Changed the alternator. Car ran for 5 miles died while driving. Replaced the new alternator with another new one and a fully charged battery. Car drove for 5 miles and died while driving again. The battery light is coming on the dash board. With a new alternator (that passed test) and a fully charged battery the system is showing only 30 amps. Any ideas.
  • ghedge66ghedge66 Member Posts: 4
    Hi,I have a 2001 olds alero with a security light issue .I took it to gm and they said it was a ignition switch and lock cylinder. So I replaced it and all was fine. Then I started having other issues like, auto lights wont work, door locks started going crazy while driving, trunk was popping open on its own. Recently the security light came on again so I replaced the cylinder lock and ignition switch again. The car started fine but when I shut it off, it would not start again. I tried the relearn but the security light will not blink and will not start the car.I took the BCM out and noticed a crack in it so I took the case apart and seen te circuit board was corroded like its been wet.
    My question is can the BCM cause the car not to start if its bad. When I start the car it starts up fine then shuts off.I aslo want to note that I did not buy a gm cylinder lock it was from autozone.

    Thanks for any input in my problem
    Greg
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    Greg,

    The body control module is what controls everything from headlights to the trunk latch. If there is corrosion on the connectors and it has gotten wet that would cause a lot of the issues you are describing. Clean up the corrosion and look at the module circuit card. Make sure that it is clean. Also make sure the connector contacts are clean as well. If you are fluent with a soldering iron I would recommend that you look over all the solder connections and make sure that there are no cracked solder joints. Worst case scenario, you may have to replace the body control module. If you determine the module needs to be replaced. I am sure someone has a refurbished module on eBay.

    Good luck with it,
    Daniel
  • ghedge66ghedge66 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Daniel, One more question. Can the BCM cause my car not to start? It will start up then shut down.Security light comes on and it wont do the relearn to start back up.I was told to make sure I buy a GM cylinder lock instead of after market one. I have had this security light issue before and relaced the cylinder lock and ignition switch and it lasted a year. Any input would be appreciated ..thanks

    Greg
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    Greg,

    When the car starts, does it run for 1 or 2 seconds? The BCM is where the security system lives. It is also referred to the "pass lock" system. Just for S&G,
    Have you checked the fuel regulator? If the"> fuel regulator has failed it will allow the engine to start but quit after a few seconds. If the engine starts and immediately dies the security system thinks the car is being stolen and it Locks out the ignition module. Also check the coils and make sure that the coils are good. What size engine do you have? If it is the 4 cylinder engine, it utilizes what is called "wasted spark" design. Meaning that the coils produce a spark not only on the compression stroke but also on the exhaust stroke as well. The fuel regulator could also be partially failing meaning it will run for a little bit but then die. If the regulator fails it will allow all 65 pounds of pressure from the fuel pump right up to the injectors. The injectors are only good for up to 5 PSI. If more than that gets to the injectors, they will leak and flood out the engine.

    Let me know if you have more questions I hope this is helpful

    Daniel
  • ghedge66ghedge66 Member Posts: 4
    Daniel,

    The car does run then dies in about 2 seconds. Yes it is a 4 cyl . So if the bcm is bad could It cause the start/stall problem? Is there any special way to check the fuel regulator?

    thanks for all the help

    Greg
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    Greg,

    Do you know where the regulator is located? If not it is located on the top left side of the engine. It is round and has a vacuum hose connected to the top of it. The best way to test it is to remove the vacuum hose off the top and move it to the side. Then, turn the ignition switch to the "on" position.
    *******VERY IMPORTANT DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE************
    Just turn the switch to the on position. Look through the opening between the hood and the dash. From the driver's seat you will be able to see the regulator. If there is a stream of gas coming out from where you pulled the vacuum hose from the top of the regulator, The regulator is dead.

    The BCM could cause the engine to stop but not likely.

    Try that and let me know,

    Daniel
  • ghedge66ghedge66 Member Posts: 4
    Ok thx Daniel I will try that today and get back with you later.

    Greg
  • tbs10tbs10 Member Posts: 3
    hello,

    I have a 2002 olds alero with a 2.2 ecotec 4 cyl with 201,000 miles. I bought a new car earlier this year and gave the alero to my fiancee and she has had nothing but trouble with it since. She is experiencing random stalling while she is coming up to a light or stopped. Usually it starts back up but one time she had to wait 2 hours for it to start.

    Before this started happening she stated the car would start fine in the morning but when she would leave for lunch it would "hesitate to start". I replaced the crankshaft position sensor, and looked at the starter while i was doing it and decided to replace that as well. That corrected the starting problem, but she has been experiencing the stalls since. The battery is 2.5 years old.

    I replaced the ignition module last week (easy enough- took about 10 minutes) and when test driving it stalled again.

    I've also repalced the fuel filter and spark plugs and air filter, still stalls. I put lucas in to clean the fuel system and put premium gas in, still stalls.

    I purchased an entire new fuel pump last weekend but have not had a chance to put it in yet. After reading the forum i am skeptical. I would like thoughts/opinions on what this could be. I am planning on changing the pump within the next 2 weeks.

    The car DOES have an aftermarket python security/remote start system. Best buy said they would remove it for 50-75.00.

    Do you think it is the fuel pump? Could it be the aftermarket system is the cause of it? Battery? Alternator? BCM/PCM? Thank you.
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    TBS10,

    It sounds like you pretty much hit everything that deals with fuel delivery. However, you missed one item that would cause that. Replace the fuel regulator. I have a 2000 Alero and she eats fuel regulators about every 2 years. I just replaced my regulator 2 days ago. It should cost about $75.00 plus tax at your favorite auto parts store. There is a good test for the regulator. If it is like mine, there should be a vacuum hose attached to the top of it. Pull that hose off and turn the key to the "ON" position. WARING DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. If fuel comes out where that vacuum hose was attached, the regulator is shot.

    Hope this helps

    Daniel
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    You GAVE your fiance an 11 year old ALERO, with 201000 miles on it?
    Is she still your fiance?
  • tbs10tbs10 Member Posts: 3
    edited December 2013
    im not sure if im not looking in the right place but it seems the "hoses" on mine are all aluminum. Can you tell me where i should be looking? I thought i knew where it was but i guess not.

    edit: yes, i did give it to her and yes she is still my fiance. At the time it had 193,000, and she was driving a 1999 sunfire that needed quite a bit of work and wasn't running. :)
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    TBS10,

    Let me look in the book and I will find it. Hang tight for alittle bit

    Daniel
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    TBS10,

    The book does not differentiate between the 2.4 and the 2.2 so I am guessing that the only difference between the 2 are the bore and stroke. The regulator on mine is right above the alternator on the end of the fuel rail. It only has one bolt that keeps the bracket attached to the fuel rail. As you are standing in front of the car, it should be on the left, right behind the timing chain compartment. It looks like a "top hat". Be warned, when you find it, and you remove it, fuel will spray everywhere. there is between 40 and 60 PSI of fuel in that rail.

    Let me know if you find it.

    Daniel
  • appellofappellof Member Posts: 54
    edited December 2013
    TBS10,

    I am going to try this. I am going to see if I can paste a picture here.

    Well that does not work. I was hoping that it would allow a picture to be posted. The moderators will not allow personal phone numbers to be posted. otherwise, I would text you the picture. You may be able to google the fuel regulator location and there may be a picture of it there.

    I hope this helps

    Daniel
  • tbs10tbs10 Member Posts: 3
    I really appreciate all the help so far. There is no definite picture of the location on google images that i can find for the yr/model of car, just of the engine. I will play more later to see if i can find the exact location.
  • janeo22janeo22 Member Posts: 18
    http://bergerweb.net/PasslockFix/

    Went here and tried this a couple of years ago. Starting problems all fixed. Good luck. I know have a mechanic friend who told me when I bought my 03 Alero that it would last 15 years or 300,000 if I took it for yearly check-ups. I bought it with 12,000 miles on it in 2004, and it is still running pretty well. Pray you'll be okay. Mine only has 124,000, so I'm praying I still have 5 - 8 years left, as the loans been paid off for 4 years now. Happy Alero trails to you!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    OK. I was just kidding around about giving it to your fiance. Anyway, after reading further posts and seeing you are trying to find images that show the fuel pressure regulator, I checked in my manual for 2002 Grand Am with 2.2L L4 engine, which should be same as yours. I scanned the pages regarding replacement of Fuel Pressure Regulator, and posted the pics on my website. Take a look and see if they are helpful. You can access them at:

    http://www.bergerweb.net/graphics/FuelPressureRegulatorReplace1.jpg

    http://www.bergerweb.net/graphics/FuelPressureRegulatorReplace2.jpg

    http://www.bergerweb.net/graphics/FuelPressureRegulatorReplace3.jpg

    Here is the "Description and Operation" section of the manual:
    The fuel pressure regulator is a diaphragm relief valve. The diaphragm has fuel pressure on one side and regulator spring pressure and intake manifold vacuum on the other side. The fuel pressure regulator maintains a constant pressure differential across the fuel injectors at all times. The pressure regulator compensates for engine load by increasing fuel pressure as the engine vacuum drops.

    You might check for vacuum leaks too, since by the description, the fuel pressure is controlled by manifold vacuum.
    Dick Berger
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