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Comments
Thank you!
Your right, it usually only gets worse over time.
Try going over to the Grand Am forum and searching on Passlock. There were some detailed instructions there on how to bypass it, but I don't remember exactly where in the forum. Also, there's detailed descriptions and bypass info on the web, search on GM Passlock.
I had the same problem with my car randomly deciding not to start. The fix simple:
- buy a can of compressed air (same as you would use for cleaning your keyboard)
- place the nozzle extension "straw" (should come attached to the can with air) on the nozzle
- blow out the key hole really good (use at least half of can of the compressed air)
- soak your key in the rubbing alcohol
- clean the key really good and let it dry
Your car should start like a charm after that. If you start experiencing the non-starter condition again - repeat the above. Apparently there is a very sensitive sensor in the key hole that over time gets covered with dust and your key is not connecting the "loop" to start the car. This remedy is cheap and IT WORKS!!!
My car has worked great ever since!!
My father took apart the ignition module and found corrosion on the contacts which was causing it to not function 100%. I am not a mechanic, just an Alero owner who wanted to try and fix the problem on their own with the aid of my father.
The cost of the ignition module was $10 from the junkyard. He put my old locking cylinder into the “new” ignition module so I didn't have to use a separate key.
Like I said I'm not a mechanic, just an Alero owner with limited funds. I hope this helps someone.
Gmpartsdirect.com (if you need to find part numbers or parts)
I accidentally pushed the alarm button on my key remote, the alarm horn sounded, and I pushed the key remote again to shut it off. The next day my car would not start. After reading this entire thread, I went back and noticed that the security light was blinking. I performed the recommended action:
1) put the key in the ignition
2) turned the key to ACC
3) waited about 5 minutes until the security light went off
4) turned the key to off
5) I then was able start the car normally
Something must be wrong with my ignition key sensor to keep the security system from letting me start the car after the initial alarm sequence. Or, Alero has a slight design flaw.
When you have the problem is the "security" indicator in the gauge cluster coming on and flashing? Or when the car is running does the "security" indicator come on solid some times? If no to both, then most likely it's not passlock.
Other possible issues:
Bad ignition switch (do you have a lot of junk on your key ring(s)?)
Failing fuel pump (not likely after so long a time-it would probably be out for good).
Bad or corroded connection at a control module somewhere.
There probably others but those are the likely candidates from my experience.
Last winter car 2003 alero would not start (turn ignition and the lights would just DIM). I had the car towed and it started right up for them. they replaced the battery anyways.
Happened again a few weeks later and had it towed again, they replaced out the entire ignition cyl (re-keyed the keys) which I believe included the passlock technology. It has been fine for a year until tonight. Back to the same issue again. I left the ignition on for about 10 min but it did not work. I will try it again tomorrow when I have the jumper cables on it (so I don't run down the battery)
I would really like to know why this is happening in the first place. Especially after I had mine replaced once already.
I agree, it has only happened to me in colder weather as well. Last week it was really cold single digits, but yesterday when it happened it was about 60 during the day and when the car would not start it was in the low 40's. The security light did flash last week though for one trip last week when it was really cold somewhere int he teens. Maybe, it has something to do with extreme cold / warm variations.
The problems after the wet conditions is usually caused by moisture getting into the connector for the PCM and the resultant corrosion. There's TSB's out for both the Alero and Grand Am for this but don't ask me the #'s now, it's been to long.
Its got 32kmiles on it.When we have to drive a dependable car we drive our 2000 Sienna with 110k miles on it.
GM wonders why it is losing the market to toyota?
this just happened to me last night. i have an 02 alero w/ about 230,000km. i drive long distance everyday with no real problems. a couple weeks ago my car wouldn't start in the cold so i replaced the battery and it's been fine since. now last night i drove to the corner store no more than 2 min away and on the way home all of a sudden the car wouldn't accelerate and was kind of chugging along. finally it completely died in front of my house and would start up but then shut right off. just went out this morning and it wouldn't even turn over. trying the 15min on Acc and seeing if that works, otherwise it looks like i'll be at the mercy of the dealership.
Cost is about $750.
Cost is about $750.
My suggestion is that when you can't start the car next time you call the mechanic to come to your house to test the fuel pump. It's a very easy pressure test. Takes just a few minutes and it would be worth the extra expense. Beats being towed.
WHITEY69 ROCKS!!!!
Thanks for the response. I agree with you. A friend told me to spray a little starting fluid in the intake when it acted up again. If it starts and runs on the starting fluid then it is almost a sure thing that the pump is bad. I have also read that beating on the bottom of the tank is another way to tell if the pump is bad. That is assuming it starts and run after the beating. So when it stops again the beatings will begin. If that does not work then I will try a little of the starting fluid.