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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

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  • brandmarbrandmar Posts: 37
    Well, I made a call to the dealer yesterday. As for incentives: the 5.9% financing for 60 months is good until July 2nd as in the lease deal for $399. This was a New England dealer. Just an FYI.
  • sanslinksanslink Posts: 11
    wasko & nanuq--Thanks so much for the helpful info! I've actually been into LR Eastside and I had the same impression--very helpful and low pressure. We'll most likely be buying in the next few months and I look forward to sharing our experiences with this knowledgeable group!
  • I think you got it right. I have a fax from landrover NA right in front of me, showing the formula to be:

    [(MSRP-$625freight) x 4%] + invoice.

    Your dealer might not do it this way, which means you are lucky, but it is the official way...

    BTW - this comes out to about $38,500 for a black SE with ACE, cold climate, brush guard...
  • Actually, you miscalculated. The price would be:

    .04 * (36,350-625) + 32,350 =

    .04 * 35,725 + 32,350 =

    1,429 + 32,350 =

    33,779

    Your price: $33,779 + tax/tags/title/accessories.
  • mikes23mikes23 Posts: 3
    Does anyone know how to reset, to off the amber check engine light. I spoke to dealer and they said their diagnostic computer was the only way to turn off the light after a fault. 96 discovery.

    thanks
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    With the advent of OBDII you do indeed have to use the dealer's laptop to reset the light. It may be that you have a LATE LATE LATE '95 (very early '96) and you may be in luck. There are two locations to check: passenger footwell, inside the plastic bulkhead are many solenoids and such. Look for a smallish, square (some are brown) box with a "Land Rover" oval sticker over the center. If the box is not there, look under the passenger seat. If you find this box, gently poke a straightened paper clip thru the center of the sticker (it covers a hole) and that shorts two contacts together, resetting the light.

    If you have to take it to the dealer, bring along a case of nice ale and talk to the mechanic on his lunch break... see if he'll reset it for you, and give him a nice gift as thanks.

    If the "check engine" is set again, you better have it looked at. You can set a code with such simple things as water in the gas and resultant extended misfiring.

    Regards, -Bob
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    OBDll does not have to be reset by the laptop. A scan tool is all that is required. Federal regulations require this.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Will any scan tool reset all stored codes? There's been many long discussions about this on the other boards and it does smell of extortion, if indeed one needs the laptop to reset them.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    They are supposed too. Like I said this is a federal requirement on OBDII. Had this confirmed on our technical assistance line. I would still recommend that they find out what the code means and have it repaired, not just clear the code and forget it.
  • mikes23mikes23 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info, I recently changed spark plugs,wires, air filter and the fault code originally was for a mis-fire. I believe it will not reset itself to continue with my trouble-shooting. Thanks
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    What are the symptoms you're chasing with all the parts replacement? I had much electrical weirdness and found a very simple solution... for MY weirdness. All seem to be unique.
  • The Land Rover website describes the DII permanent 4-wheel drive system as operating with open differentials at the front, rear and center with no locking differentials in any location.

    According to the LR website, electronic traction control applies the brakes to the wheel/wheels that is/are slipping.

    That's okay at a slippery Walmart parking lot, but what if I'm charging up a muddy hillside and the traction control starts applying the brakes. Would locking differentials not be better? Or at least limited-slip differentials in the axles.

    Am I reading the description correctly?
  • mikes23mikes23 Posts: 3
    nanuq, thks , the original problem was the engine light going on and the code indicated cylander 4 had a mis-fire. I have no loss of power or any other kind of symptoms. It may be I had some bad gasoline, but the plugs, wires and air cleaner needed updateing. I have also added some LR fuel treatment additive, the LR dealer said a sticky Xhaust valve could also be the cause.Since the light stays on till reset I wanted to turn off (reset) as a way to tell if i fixed the problem.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    It sounds like you're doing everything exactly right. Sticking exhaust valves started in '96 with the 4.0 and GEMS, and are solved with "carbon cutting" valves. These simply have a sharp square shoulder on the valve stem to prevent gum buildup within the guide. Mine had the sticky valves and as it got worse there was a noticeable loss of power. If you're affected in only one cylinder then yeah... keep looking elsewhere.

    Good luck! -Bob
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Yep... open diffs all around. The traction control system applies brakes to the wheel that slips and that sends torque across the diff to the other wheel on the same axle. It works well but it's a bit slow to respond.

    The series I Disco has a central diff lock operated by the same lever that selects high and low range. My understanding is the DII has central locking capability but there is no linkage to the cabin. It is not a viscous coupled transfer case, so apparently the traction control system is thought to be sufficient to replace that need.

    LSDs would be nice, but are squirrely on ice. True lockers are great, but break halfshafts. Since 90-some% of these trucks don't go offroad Land Rover probably figured we'd add it later when we needed it.

    Look for "Quaife", "Tru-Trak" and "ARB" for more goodies.

    Regards, -Bob
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    The Traction control may be a bit slow, but it does work very well. I have driven the D90, Discovery II and Range Rover in very muddy conditions up and down 35 degree hills, and all were able to make it up the hills. The Discovery was actually the easiest on the downhill side with Hill Descent Control, which also works in reverse which is handy for the inevitable failed ascent. We use stock Discoverys for Trek, which is our competition for Land Rover NA Dealers.
  • abatteabatte Posts: 5
    I am a Jeep owner and have been for years, I have both a Wrangler and Cherokee. I drove a Discovery at an off-road event a few weeks ago and loved it. I am now planing on selling one of the Jeeps and picking up a Disco Series 1. What do I need to know? I'm looking at 1996's, are there any common problems to look for, are there any quirks that I should know about? What's the deal with the diffs, are there stock lockers? How does the 4L V8 perform, is there enough power for the Colorado high country? I appreciate any help and advice anybody has to offer.
  • saharagalsaharagal Posts: 88
    Are you keeping the Wrangler or the Cherokee? I've been looking at Discos for a long time now, and have recently decided to buy a Wrangler as a second car. I'll get a Discovery when the 2003's come out. Just curious about which car your Disco is going to replace!
  • abatteabatte Posts: 5
    I'm selling the Wrangler. I hate to do it though; it has been a great vehicle. But, I have a new baby and need something that can do double duty, family cruiser and back country explorer. I do highly recommend the Wrangler, I have a 95 YJ, I've had it for 4 years and just made a deal to sell it yesterday for only $800 less than I bought it for in 98. How many vehicles can you get that kind of depreciation rate from, I'm guessing probably not the Disco I'm planning to buy.

    For your Wrangler shopping, I would recommend 97 and newer, the TJ. This is the new body style, but rather than leaf spring suspension you get a coil suspension, you get all of the off road prowess and a much improved on road ride. And, if you look hard enough you can find one with the Dana 44 rear axle which was an option on the TJ's. And definitely, definitely, get the 4L 6 cylinder engine, I have the 4 cylinder and although there is plenty of power off road, highway travel is sometimes a challenge. Good Luck.
  • donelonpcdonelonpc Posts: 8
    I have a 2000 Disco II. This past winter crusing down the highway (my first winter) I kept getting chilled with a breeze on my leg. I could not figure out where it was coming from. Finally, I noticed that the where the door handle is on the inside of the door, a breeze comes from around the handle casing. I don't think this is normal. Should the dealer check it out and see if the folks in GB forgot to put in some insallation?
  • woodywwwoodyww Posts: 1,797
    Well, I bought a '98 Range Rover 4.6 in Jan. with 30K miles & a very clean service history; with all dealer service records indicating no real problems. In the last month I have had it back to the dealer 5 times for various (mainly electrical) problems.... every time I get it back maybe one of the problems is fixed but there are at least one or 2 new problems. This has become a 2nd job for me, dealing with this vehicle. And this is reputably one of the better LR dealers.

    To those of you contemplating purchasing a Land Rover, I wish you luck. And of course, Discos are not quite as complex as RR's so maybe that will be in your favor. What the service people finally tell you to, after you've spent many many afternoons in their waiting room, is to tell you that LR's are "quirky".

    The waiting room at "my" LR dealer is quite nice, with gourmet coffees, a receptionist handing out flowers, etc. What they really should have is a Bar, filled with Absolute, Jameson, etc. because that's what you may finally require to put up with your "quirky" LR.

    Today for instance, I spent all afternoon at the dealer (yet again)... took it in to have the computer code reset......& the AC looked at. They literally brought out the vehicle 3 times, handed me the key, gave me the "rap", & each time I went to leave something else was wrong with it. Finally, I left, with the stereo not working (a new problem!), with them assuring me that it would be OK (?) I'm now wondering if the dealer can ever get everything on it working long enough (at the same time, no less) in order for me to sell it??? I drive past the BMW, Toyota, & Acura dealers on my way home from the LR dealer, but there are always still so many things wrong with my Range Rover I'm afraid to try to trade it in in that condition.

    This is not fun...... LR's look great, they have a mystique, yuppie cachet, & all that, but (esp.if you don't intend to take it off road) is it worth it? I've had more trouble with this thing in 6 months than I've ever had with my 12 y.o BMW, or had with my 1990 Saab in 8 years, (not a car with a great reliability record itself).

    Anyway, thanks for listening to me rant, I would just caution prospective LR owners to ask yourselves how you're gonna feel if your vehicle does turn out to be a service nightmare. BTW, this board is great, I've gotten great advice in the past, from Nanuq (re: snow tires, etc), & others.

    Peace
  • smokymansmokyman Posts: 12
    I am shopping for a used disco and have only found 1 standard shift. Have been told they stopped importing them in 97' anyone with one note any particular problems? Why no standards in the US?
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    Standard transmissions are quite rare in NA spec Discoverys. Sales were stopped due to lack of demand.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    What dealer is it? Has there tech called the LR Dealer support tech hotline? If you post the last 8 numbers of your vin I can check the logs to see what may have been reported if they did.
  • rchacon1rchacon1 Posts: 1
    I'm also thinking about buying a 5-speed standard discovery. Does anyone know if they're more difficut (or expensive) to maintain and service than automatics? What's their record for reliability?
  • jmkehrerjmkehrer Posts: 2
    Hey there...

    I'm looking at a 95 Discovery with 92,xxxmi on it. What should I look for when I head in to test drive it? Any common problems? Warning signs? Thanks in advance...
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Disco automatic transmissions are made by ZF, it's the same trans that's spec'd into the high end Mercedes. L-R recently issued a notice that the service requirements are altered for the ZF; there's a 30k mile service, then NO additional service for the life of the vehicle other than fluid changes. The ZF is known to be bullet-proof.

    Many people can't imagine an automatic for true offroading, but in low range the ZF is very abrupt and very solidly locked up. It crawls just like a manual but you won't fry a clutch and you have that good control over traction with the long-travel throttle.
  • I would agree with Nanuq, it works well for off-roading, and when your in tight spots you probably will be happy you don't have a stick. Also, one of my mechanics has a 1995 Disco that's a manual and he had a very hard time finding the parts he needed for tranny work.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    One very bizarre thing that most here probably (hopefully) will never experience: I've buried my Disco up to the headlights in snow and had to dig out. When you go quickly from forward to reverse to get that back-and-forth rocking going, it's easy to over-do the throttle and spin all 4 tires. Then when you shift D - R - D it makes BAD sounds. So reasonably, you use the brakes to quickly stop the tires for the fast shift... and the ABS takes over, preventing you from immediately stopping the drivetrain! It's the strangest feeling, but it's there. Times like that I wish there were an override for the ABS.

    Yes, you CAN use the parking brake to stop the drivetrain but you're risking your transfer case so it's a good idea not to.

    Happy Rovering! -Bob
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    I was heading out for some mtn biking, there were 4 of us in Anuqa, all our riding gear and packs, and 4 mtn bikes: 2 inside and 2 on the rack behind. Driving south we came upon a friend broken down by the road, his wheel had come off (on a Ford van, not a Rover). So we went back, and wound up loading up his 3 boys and all their camping gear from a 4-day outing, and put all 4 mtn bikes on the rack. We headed back to town with 7 people, 3 huge packs, 4 helmets, 4 day packs, water bottles and snacks, and 4 mtn bikes... and the Rover felt just fine... no complaints, no funny handling, no wandering. Everyone got home fine, and the Rover dealt with it effortlessly. Then the jump seats folded back up, we aired out the stink from their 4 days of camping, and we went our merry way.

    What a versatile truck!
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