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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems

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Comments

  • rich107rich107 Member Posts: 4
    2007 4 w/d v-8 15,000 miles ...novenber will be 3 years..the front brakes are squelling...i took of the tire to look at it....the inside of the rotar is wearing down...
    i just want to know if it should be covered by the waranty........thanks tableclocks@hotmail.com
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Brakes are considered consumable parts and are not covered under warranty unless you can demonstrate that the wear factor was not normal and caused by a defective part.
  • rich107rich107 Member Posts: 4
    yes...i understand they are a wearing part...but 15,000 miles?.....the inside of the left rotor is wearing about 1/16 of a inch...i conten that the rotor is bad or the shoes were bad...defected from the factory.....
    your coments please.....thank you
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Most car dealers, GM in particular, have trained their service people, manager included to deny this type of claim under warranty. They will do almost anything including stretching the truth to deny the warranty claim.

    That being the case, you may want to take it in and get their take on it. If not satisfied you could take it to another dealer under a warranty claim. Note however, that the record of denial of warranty may follow you as most will input it into the GM database.

    If the brake didn't release properly and remained in contact with the rotor with enough pressure to cause premature wear of the pads and rotor you will have a repairable warranty claim. You will need to be persistent, but not obnoxius, in showing the evidence by comparing the opposite side rotor as evidence of premature wear.

    Good luck!
  • rich107rich107 Member Posts: 4
  • mram50mram50 Member Posts: 5
  • dran1dran1 Member Posts: 1
    i have never had one stay on but myself and several people i know have had the "block" under the bed where taillights plug into go bad that's probably it good luck Darren
  • justwelditjustweldit Member Posts: 1
    I just did this yesterday.. I was able to undo the frame clamp on the rear section of brake line and pry the line just above the tank to get a wrench on the union. to work on it I had to cram myself between the exhaust pipe and the drive shaft to see above the tank. Once I go in there I was able to remove that piece of brake line from the union to the bracket above the axle. mine rusted out, fab a new one and slip it in from the back.
  • kerryjkerryj Member Posts: 2
    Hi folks, I have a 2006 Sierra that has a problem I see described in a number of posts. ABS seems to be kicking in at very low speeds. This started at about 80,000 miles. (has 88,000 now). I have described the problem to 2 different dealers and both said they have never heard of the problem. After reading all these posts, I find that hard to believe. I am not really interested in disconnecting the ABS. I just want to fix it. Will cleaning the sensors actually fix this? If so, has anyone done this and how difficult is it. I'm not a professional mechanic, but I do know my way around a vehicle and do most of my own work. I considered changing the entire hub (I'm told the sensor rings are housed there) but they are $515 each.
    Thanks in advance.
  • fauxjoefauxjoe Member Posts: 1
    Hi There - I just started having the same exact problem with my '06 Sierra and the peddle seems to get more "spongie" with the ABS kicking in at inappropriate times (i.e. very slow speeds and when the wheel turns at slow speeds...into parking spots, etc.). I will bring to a shop to get diagnosed this weekend and post when that's done. Please keep me posted w/ any info you might find. Thanks!!
  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Member Posts: 50
    this might shed some light on the subject of diagnosis..I found this helpful when I was looking for..more detailed system understanding/support:

    http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2006/02/gm_regional_recall.html

    February 14, 2006
    Owners of General Motors trucks and SUVs in 30 states not covered by the GM regional recall continue to struggle with malfunctioning anti-lock brakes. Owners in the 20 states and the District of Columbia covered by the recall are struggling with GM dealers reluctant to fix the brakes as part of the recall.

    Read more: http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2006/02/gm_regional_recall.html#ixzz0N8UzD- 3Z6

    OTHER good sources..

    http://www.absfixer.com/All_about_abs.php

    http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/august97/service.htm

    and

    http://www.allpar.com/fix/ABS.html
  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Member Posts: 50
    an other site of good information(if you get dumped on by the dealer)

    http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/automotive/2265091.html
  • ctchevyctchevy Member Posts: 1
    Have a 2003 4WD SIlverado and have just been initiated to the "brake problem." I am replacing all brake lines with polyarmour and SS russell hose. I am not sure how to replace the flexible braided line located between the master cylinder and the first junction. Is this section replaceable with an aftermarket or do I have to buy the overpriced dealer OEM lines (about $100). Thanks for any help.
  • kerryjkerryj Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. I learned something yesterday as well. My son in law just had his 04 Colorado in the shop for the same problem except his ABS light was coming on below 30 mph. My light isnt coming on. I know, you would think him and I would compare truck problems, but both of us have had so many issues we dont even mention them anymore. His has really been a lemon. Anyway, the dealer replaced the drivers side hub under warranty (?) and it fixed the problem. Apparently there was a recall on his that he was unaware of. And this is one of the dealers who told me they had never heard of the problem. I am going to visit them next week and I will post my findings. I'll probably end up replacing the hub myself if I can determine which one is acting up. Thanks also for the links posted. I will check them out.
  • rogyrogy Member Posts: 2
    after i had my original rotors and pads replaced, when I apply my brakes at speeds over 45 and more my brakes pulsate and this never happened with the original rotors and pads.I had premium parts put on.I also went back and had the front rotors replaced and it is still pulsating when I apply the brakes. if you have some advice, kindly reply at rogy1943@yahoo.ca have a great day
  • rogyrogy Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for the info, I will certainly try this and have a great day Rogy
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    .I had premium parts put on.I also went back and had the front rotors replaced and it is still pulsating when I apply the brakes.

    So the mechanic replaced the premium parts with more premium parts?

    One wonders what exactly qualifies as premium parts. Also who performed the break in procedure for the brakes?
  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Member Posts: 50
    This could be due to many factors the most usual ones are the fact that the back calipers may not be applying all the required stopping pressure, thus the front rotors are now warped. This is what happened to me and how I landed on this forum:

    I have replaced the rear & front rotors, brake pads, and most importantly my rear calipers with aftermarket SSBC three piston. I have also replaced the brake hoses with Russell braided hose kit.

    My one question is how long before the brakes started pulsing, and was it within a day of the new brakes being put on the truck or that moment you drove out of the garage?

    If the rotors are warped it will pulsate, if the rotors are warping a few miles into the drive, that could indicate that the back brakes are not assisting the stopping..
    thus the front calipers and brakes are the only mechanics stopping the vehicle, and over a few stops the brakes are warping/by overheating, and in the summer months the ambient air will not cool the rotors very much increasing the heat retained in the metal.

    You could have a damaged ABS controller, or master cylinder, these are less common and not very typical. The GM issues with brakes have been the brake lines rusting out and the rear calipers being just junk, please see my other posts for those items. Search for “ttaupier”
  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Member Posts: 50
    Check this post out as well,

    #46 of 162Re: 2001 Silverado 1500 Brake Pulsation [1offroader] by sweetlb
  • 00z71dcr00z71dcr Member Posts: 1
    i have had the same problem. it only happens when i go slow like you described. i almost hit a car at a gas station. it scared the living day lights out of me. did you end up gettin the problem fixed and/or what was it
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Member Posts: 45
    My brake warning light is on very dim even when the truck is not running and the key is removed, any idea why or what I can check. Only have 22000 miles on it. :confuse:
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Member Posts: 45
    04 silverado 5.8 22000 miles on it and the brake warning light stays on even when the vehicle motor is off. Seems to do this when it is damp outside. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Member Posts: 45
  • georgia_knightgeorgia_knight Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem and went through numerous shoes and drums before realizing that there are left/right shoes and that previous shops not only had the shoes installed on the wrong side, but the shoes installed backwards. The brakes were also not adjusted properly and too tight. This created too much brake dust which is what caused the erratic, sudden braking.
  • redsierraredsierra Member Posts: 2
    I've got the exact same problem on my 03 Sierra! Sorry I dont have any feed back for you. Some body out there must have an answer to this problem!
  • redsierraredsierra Member Posts: 2
    My parking brake lamp remains dimly lit even after the ignition key is removed. I have a 03 Sierra 1500 ext cab. Any ideas??
  • z71bassz71bass Member Posts: 6
    I am pretty sure I know where your problem lies, I had identical symptoms. Dealer replaced wheel speed sensors, still had the problem.
    Dealer replaced master cylinder, still had the problem.
    Two days after the master cylinder replacement, the truck told me what the problem was, it began to growl in the front end. Wheel bearing was shot....way shot. Prior to that day there was no noise whatsoever, but when I picked the front end off the ground, the left front wheel tipped a couple degrees, at least.
    So, all along the wheel bearing was progressively worsening, as a result the wheel speed sensor was being lied to. It is simply a prox. switch, and sometimes it couldn't see what it was looking for, due to play in the bearings.
    I changed the bearing assembly myself, mainly because it was a Sunday morning, and on Monday forced the dealer to refund my money for the previous uneeded repairs.
    That was three months ago, and brakes have been fine since.
    By the way, the wheel bearing assembly, $150.00 or so, comes with a new wheel speed sensor.
    Hope all this makes sense, and helps.
    Good Luck!
  • mooseyemooseye Member Posts: 2
    Just how many times does a specific part have to fail prematurely in order to be a problem that the manufacturer should fix?
    I mean, this is only one site of many and there are 18 pages of the same or similar problems with brakes on chevy trucks.
    I live in Tennessee, but my used truck came from NY. I could not tell the rust to just stop even though it is not in a northern state any longer.
    I have had three brake line failures in less than a year on my '99 silverado. I have an '88 truck with no brake problems at all and the lines are not rusted.

    And one more thing.
    I think all Chevy truck/suv/whatever owners should go out right now and crawl under their vehicle and take a look at the brake lines. You may be unpleasantly surprised.
    The bad thing about this problem is that the brakes may work fine until need in an emergency situation where hard braking is required. Then the weak rusted lines will not hold the added pressure and the line will fail leaving you with minimal braking or none at all.
  • weezy_1975weezy_1975 Member Posts: 1
    I put new brakes and just changed 2 master cylinders blead breaks several times and still when I stop at a stop sign the peddle slowly goes to the floor, There are no leaks anywhere, Can anyone help me figure out what's wrong?
  • gandalf77577gandalf77577 Member Posts: 2
    Yesterday, my 2005 silverado started making this weird roaring sound when braking. It ONLY happens when I am breaking and doesnt cause the car to jolt or shake. It sounds just like a plain is flying over, its a low rumble or roar that could be grinding too. Oddly enough, I cannot hear it outside the vehicle with the window rolled down and i can only hear it from inside. It only happens when i brake really slowly and am breaking at a slow speed. Quick breaking or slow breaking at high speeds doesn't cause the sound. It only happens when driving slowly and braking slowly. Its has 72,000 miles on it, has always been serviced well, and it was just inspected and it passed just 3 days ago (tx). Anyone have any ideas?
  • gandalf77577gandalf77577 Member Posts: 2
  • fideucefideuce Member Posts: 1
    I climb under my 2003 2500 HD silverado, Durimax Diesel that I bought new to change the oil and look at eveywhere there was a clip on the brake line it was ready to rust through. So I go to the local Auto Parts store to get some brake line. The fittings on my truck are 14mm nuts with either 10mm or 12 mm threads on the nuts, and the line is 10 thousands bigger than 1/4 inch line. Advanced Auto, and NAPA as well as all the other auto part stores have only american standard threads on their brake line pieces. I will get metric inverted nuts then they don't have them and can't get them????Ok, I will get metric! CAN'T they dont have any metric lines,or nuts on 1/4 inch line? You've got to be kidding me!Nor, can they get it??? They have no Inverted fittings on 1/4 inch metric either??? My line is not bubble its inverted??? OK I go to the Chevy Dealer and order the parts--- I can't all their computers and books tell me their is American line and nuts on my truck. The parts guy looks at my line and says thats metric, but nothing listed in computer is metric for 2003,2005,2002 and he can't get it either. So only option I have is to cut off line and re-use old nuts on 1/4 inch line and hope the flange tool compensates for the 10 thousands line size difference and what if I strip one I'm in a world of hurt. Is there anyone else that has had this problem? I can't be the only one in America with this problem and what did you do?
  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Member Posts: 50
    Hey Fideuce,

    I have not heard of this issue, we have 4 GMC pickups in the family and not had this issue, we have had our brakes, and brake line rusting, but not the metric/american issue. You may review some of these threads... #125 of 178Re: Rusted Brake lines, 2003 GMC 50K miles [barnowl3] by ttaupier1, ..........in the : Forums/Pickups/Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra/Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems

    There are several links and different guys that needed to find the solutions to similar problems (rusty lines). To tell you the truth, I am very surprised this is the first time, we have seen or heard of this, knowing the vehicles are mostly manufactured in a Metric based countrys, and serviced in the USA, ...almost sounds like there was a daily supply issue and someone at the factory came-up with a short time fix... Yikes...

    keep us posted..
  • johnc65johnc65 Member Posts: 3
    I need to replace the rear brake pads on my '99 Silverado, and was told that I may need a special tool to compress the calipers. Will a regular 'C' Clamp not work. If not what of kind of tool is this and is it easy to get?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Yep a big C clamp would work.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Installation Procedure

    Important: Use denatured alcohol to clean the outside surface of caliper boot before installing new brake pads.

    1.If you are installing new brake pads, use a C-clamp in order to compress the piston to the bottom of the caliper bore. Use the old brake pad, a metal plate or a wooden block across the face of the piston in order to protect the piston and the caliper boot. Important: Use a small flat-bladed tool and lift the inner edge caliper boot next to the piston to release any trapped air.

    2.Ensure that the piston boot is below the level of the piston face.

    3.Install the brake pad retainers to the caliper bracket. Important: Ensure that the wear sensor is positioned at the leading edge (upward) of the inner pad during forward wheel rotation.

    4.Install the brake pads over the brake pad retainers and onto the caliper bracket.

    5.Install the tire and wheel assembly.

    6.Lower the vehicle.

    7.With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of it's travel distance.

    8.Slowly release the brake pedal.

    9.Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 7-8 until a firm pedal is obtained. This will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.

    10.Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level with clean brake fluid.

    11.Burnish the pads and the rotors.
  • ttaupier1ttaupier1 Member Posts: 50
    Hey John, I have done a lot of brakes in my day, and nearly every rear disc caliper, from a 63 Maserati "Mexico", 2002 Honda accord, to a 2003 Jeep Grncheke, to a 2003 GMC 1500 pickup, I have always had to screw the rear calipers in as they are being compressed...hence the special tool. This is based on 25 years of doing about 40 brake jobs (friends and family). I have used a c-clamp, however the screwing in of the caliper piston is very key to the compression process. I have never had a special tool...however i did find this excerpt from another Car help page....

    was unaware that nearly all modern vehicles w/rear disc brakes NEED turned in, like a screw. so i ruined a clamp and the calliper trying to figure it out :( the special tool purchase is not required in most cases because most auto parts stores offer free tool rentals to promote the sales of auto parts, and the tool they offer is usually better than the one most people are willing purchase due to expense probably in the upwards of $50. there is a cheap tool option 3 to 4 bucks kinda looks like a cube w/ a 3/8 ratchet drive hole on each side for a extention to fit to your ratchet. and it has different sized/shaped pegs at the corners of each side to make it more compatible with other vehicles, efficient but difficult to use and i really dont suggest it either but ive used one and it did get the job done.

    also check this ..post out.. >> #134 of 182Re: Brake Pad replacement with ABS [Bloozester] by ttaupier1

    good luck
  • bulch1bulch1 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same issue and I found out that it is the ABS kicking in. This is caused by rust and the sensor and tone wheel in the bearing housing on one or possibly both front wheels.
  • anglis56anglis56 Member Posts: 1
    Hi
    New to this blog, but looking for information on replacement of rear brake shoes on my silverado. Apparently GM had gone back to drum brakes, and upon inspection noticed that there is a big sort of u-clamp or u-shape pin going across both brake shoes to hold in place. Any ideas on how to reinstall easily or special tool suggestion. I changed one side and wow what a hard time it was getting the rod back in place.
    Thanks
  • jdmcrebeljdmcrebel Member Posts: 1
    On a 2001 1500 is there a safe way to unhook the ABS brake system?
  • graphic_guygraphic_guy Member Posts: 2
    I have had this brake problem with my 2001 GMC Sierra since I purchased the truck. They have cleaned whatever it is they had to clean and given it back to me only to have the same problem around 6 months later. I have had this done over 10 times and have never yet received a recall notice on this problem.
  • graphic_guygraphic_guy Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone else had the problem of the brake lines and now the transmission lines rusting out? Last year I had to have the brake lines replaced after they rusted through and I lost my brakes completely. Now I find out that my transmission line has rusted out and I lost all my transmission fluid without any knowledge and now I find that I may need to replace the transmission. This truck has been the worst vehicle I ever purchased. I have had nothing but problems with it since the day I purchased it in 2001 brand new off the lot. I'll be looking for a new truck but a GM product won't be on my list. And they say buy American. I have all my life but I'm seriously thinking about going foreign now.
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    I've had the same problem on my 2003. I do live up here in the rust belt in upstate NY where they drop salt like crazy. However, this is not an excuse in my opinion as GM does test components with salt spray. My brake line failed at about 5.5 years. Gas line rusted at the o-ring joint at about 4.5 years, causing a spraying leak under pressure. Engine oil cooling lines at 3.5 years. Check that if you have the oil cooling option, as you lose oil fast! I think they are just not using the right alloys in the lines and they are becoming sacrificial to the adjoining metals.

    Report your brake line problem to the NHTSA. They just sent me an email to get more info on the problem, so they must be investigating.
  • joek14joek14 Member Posts: 1
    Is this what the recall was for? Have the same issue, anti lock kicks in when truck has just about come to a complete stop. 2000 Silverado, 100K miles, rotors and pads replace 10K ago.
  • z71bassz71bass Member Posts: 6
    As I had mentioned earlier, my ABS was doing the same thing, brake failure at very low speed. Wheel Speed Sensors were replaced, and Master Cylinder was replaced. Neither of these repairs solved the problem. Discovered at a much later date, one of the wheel bearings in front was bad,(way bad), and never made a noise. Replaced the wheel bearing, which comes with wheel speed sensor and problem went away.
  • hogwildnbamahogwildnbama Member Posts: 6
    guys

    i have a 1994 GMC K1500 Z71, 5.7l. Disks on the front, rotors on the back.

    First, the brakes have never been great but they should be better then what they are now. I replaced the master cylinder, front brake lines, calipers, pads and rotors. I used slotted rotors & posi-quite pads. I flushed the brake fluid and put back valvoline synthetic dot 3-4. I bleed the brakes per GM's policy, 3 times, and still have soft brakes. I had soft brakes before and thought redoing everything should solve the problem. What am i missing :cry: ?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    What type of brake lines did you use when replacing?
  • hogwildnbamahogwildnbama Member Posts: 6
    i only replaced the rubber portion and got those from Napa Auto parts
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Some have replaced theirs with stainless steel braided lines and have commented that it had firmed up the brake pedal "feel". Theory being that the stainless makes the brake lines less flexible with more resistance.
  • hogwildnbamahogwildnbama Member Posts: 6
    ok i'll try that. Would using a power type bleeder help ensure all of the air is out. I'm just thinking out loud. What if there's some air still some where how best to try and get it out.
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