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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems

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Comments

  • sadcanucksadcanuck Member Posts: 3
    My 09 has had 6 bumpers, now they have changed the head gasket and deflector gasket (burning oil) and are probably going to have to change the pistons and rings. Tranny is acting up, the power mirror on the one side does not work anymore..what I really liked when I got the crew cab was the GM of Mexico stamped on the drivers door. Apparently that is where they are making all the crew cabs (GM and Chev), Avalanches, Caddies.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    MrFixit911, "I called GM, and they were unaware of the person monitoring this site having any authority. "
    I feel your pain and also wonder if the left hand is talking with the right at GM. Time for GM Sarah to chime in with clarification on how she is helping or maybe your being handed a line of S**t from dealer you went to.

    SadCanuck, 6 bumpers on an 2009 :confuse: head gasket, deflector gasket now the tranny :sick: You have a :lemon: but it's to late for that law or to get GM to take it back. As long as their covering the work that's a plus. Your inconvenience they probably are not compensating you for.
    My 2000 was built in Canada. I have the Silverado Ext Cab 2500LD shortbed w/5.3L, 3:73 auto. It has had many problems as well from engine piston slap, rusting brakes lines, rotors, calipers,sensors & tranny crapping the bed....I just keep hearing that commercial "Built Chevy Tough" :P Lies, Lies, Lies
    and our stupid government leaders bailed their asses out of a jam to boot, who's the stupid one now.............

    Ray T

    RayT
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    They used crap material for brake lines and knew it :mad: , it was all about containing production costs. I had my brake lines replaced as well but didn't go to a dealer rather Firestone Service Ctr.

    My next truck will be a Ford or Dodge, my loyalty for past 30 years to GM is done, they have proven time and again how they could care less about customer retention once they have your money and you go out of warranty.

    Ray T
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    I haven't seen one thread on here that GM did anything. The dealership was where a good friend is Mgr. Could not do jack. YA, where is GM Sarah now ? Please tell all of us if any issue was resolved and paid by GM. I'd say not, if GM fixed one, they would have to fix them all.

    I'm posting on here for the sole reason to inform others what is wrong with GM's trucks and either they need to stop driving it or get it fixed before someone is injured or killed.
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Hateful JIM here- I said it once, I'LL say it again, I fixed my sensor ONCE- hit a pole. I AINT gonna fix ANYTHING on my truck. Not the hole in the rocker panel, NOT the bent bumper from the pole, NOT the brake lines, NOR sensors, rotors, NOTHIN !! If the brake lines burst, HOPE YA'LL dont live at the bottom of the ravine, OR by the river, cause thats where i'm aiming this thing before i bail.

    DOES anyone know if CHINA makes trucks, I'm looking for a good truck, and I really believe that even CHINA makes a better truck than GM- (Government Motors). I'm not sure that gm trucks arent made out of tin foil.

    Ya'll have a great day, being as you all like me got the short end buying a Chevy truck and all, that alone makes me mad enough to drink and smoke cigarettes. HATEFUL JIM said that!!
  • stevegronkastevegronka Member Posts: 1
    Hello God bless you Bluzplayer: Thanks for the information on changing rotors on the 4x4 CM Dually. I am just getting started on changing the rotors on a 2005 GMC Sierra Dually 4x4 that is owned by the foundation for which I work. I was hoping the ends of the hubs on the axle wouldn't have to come off. I like your thinking a lot. I was in management at an assembly plant for Chrysler back in the late 70s. You are right that there are often things that could be engineered better on any vehicle. I am with you on taking care of rust problems and things that get in the way of each other. If they made the engineers spend some time putting together the things that they design it would definitely help the whole industry.

    Don't have a machine shop I know about since I am on the road in Venice, Florida. I read where others have knocked out the studs. I have done that sort of thing before. I like your idea about making sure things are parallel. I am replacing the rotors so with new rotors I and plenty of care taken in the reassembly I am hoping things will go in parallel and perpendicular where necessary.

    Thanks for posting what you did.
  • bluzplayerbluzplayer Member Posts: 4
  • forresthforresth Member Posts: 34
    I ended up towing it away from the dealer to a local shop. They gave an estimate of $1500 to replace all the lines so I gave them the go ahead. They ended up calling me and saying they needed to change the front calipers because the bleeder screws were rusted and rounded. Cheaper to replace rather than drill out the bleeders. During the road test the power steering cooler blew out and sprayed fluid out the grill and up on the windshield. So it cost another $300 for that. Then tried road testing again and there was too much rust on the front rotors causing pulsation, so another $175 for turning those on the truck. Final cost was $2009.99. They gave me a 3 year 36k mile warranty. The pedal is a little soft so I may need to take it back again.
    Forrest
  • forresthforresth Member Posts: 34
    The guy at the local shop thought the truck was parked over a salt pile. It has only been parked in my driveway which is asphalt. The whole underside of the truck is rusting out. It has less than 20k miles and looks like it is 50 years old. I am thinking of putting that POR-15 or whatever it is called to slow the rust. The fuel lines are rusted badly too but I did not get them changed yet. I plan on watching them and change if I see it get worse.
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    I had all the same done, rusted bleeders, rotors, except for the power steering problem. All about the same you paid. My pedal always was a tad soft, even after a new master cyl. I think it is a characteristic of the anti lock system. I still have the anti lock fuse out. Felt 10X better after doing that. Good thing is, you can feel safe now !
  • barnowl3barnowl3 Member Posts: 70
    Check ALL of your lines! I had an 03 and it too looked it was parked over a salt pile. All the following were replaced once and some twice on mine over 8 yrs , 60,000 miles. Brake lines, all PS lines, PS cooler, PS pump ( rotted hose nipple) engine oil and cooler lines ( 2x), brake, AC, transmission. Fuel line connection at the tank where they connect tot he nylon oil lines. Corrosion causes the o -ring to not seal, which causes fuel under pressure to reduce a fine gasoline spray under the truck, ( you know, the kind that causes a fine fire). MY tranny dipstick handle rusted off! The dealer replaced the exhaust heat shields several times under warranty. My bumper rusted the 1st month I owned it and before it was replaced, a GM rep to come out to see it. Took him a year to show up, by then it was an ugly mess. They replaced one and undercoated the other one. Years later, I nearly peeled the undercoated bumper off the truck by hand due to rust. There was like no metal left. There was seriously some kind of major a problem with some of those trucks. All, the GM reps could say is that 'we see no recall in our database'. I no longer see GMs in my driveway after 35 yrs. GMs customer care convinced me to buy the other US truck.
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Anyone else besides me notice the add for a new 2012 Chevy truck on the right side of the screen at the bottom? Oh yeah, thats what i'm gonna do- I think i'll go out and just buy a brand new Chevy truck, since the one i'm driving right now is held together by the red rot that keeps falling off the truck in my driveway.
    Look at the ad- I QUOTE- "Silverado- The most dependable, longest lasting full-size pickups on the road" , which means -the most dependable (at breaking down), longest lasting (the junk yards are full of em').
    HA HA, I Needed to see that ad, its been a hard day!!
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Yea I was under truck this weekend and sure enough the trans lines and fuel lines are rusting away as well :lemon: :sick:
    I gotta tell ya though you started my day off with a smile when I read "which causes fuel under pressure to reduce a fine gasoline spray under the truck, ( you know, the kind that causes a fine fire)"
    I mean really, some of the things going wrong with these General Malfunction Built Tough trucks is ridiculous. Why no recalls :confuse: possibly because enough of us haven't reported to NHTSA but that's a guess. More likely GM has someone in their pocket. They'll probably be looking for another government bailout again soon too :surprise:

    Ray T
  • screwedupscrewedup Member Posts: 1
    i own a 2003 1500 chevy. bought it new in 2002. @20,000 miles had problems w/ brakes. GM replaced them @ no cost to me. @ 40,000 miles had same problem. GM paid for 1/2 to get fixed.
    @ 65,000 miles had same problem again. GM would not do anything said it must be the way i drive! Saturday my nephew moved my truck for me and almost hit the chicken coop..NO BRAKES. I looked underneath and the brake line has a slice in it about 1/2 inch long!! the lines are completley rusted. I can fix the part that blew out or replace the entire line. It wil happen again. GM will not take resonsibilty. I live in a GM town and i've bought gm trucks for years, never again. i'd rather drive a foreign vehicle...oh wait maybe i am!! sincerly disappointed w/GM and fact that it will take a major lawsuit due to an untimely death to fix this problem, that they absolutely know about.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Same issues as you. Bought a brand new 2000 Silverado 2500, developed a front end shimmy problem, dealer turned the rotors at 20k under warranty, replaced the sensors. ABS still activates at 5 mph on a flat dry road. I have replaced all 4 rotors, 2 calipers and recleaned the sensors numerous times. GM doesn't care they already got our money and government bailout to boot because of their sloppy business practices while the CEO's keep getting the bonuses.
    I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER GM PRODUCT. I tell those who are contemplating it not to as well because of their lack of customer care with persistent problems.
    Buyer Beware !

    Ray T
  • rust2500hdrust2500hd Member Posts: 1
    I have 2003 Silverado 2500HD 72,000 miles which just had a brake line burst, cost me $654.00 to replace all lines except the one over the rear end, done at my regular garage not dealership as they always seem to find more thighs wrong than what t originally went in for.
    I hear that GM says it must be due to road salt etc, well I run my truck thru the car wash after every storm an do the undercarriage rinse as well as wash.
    Also hear about you must be using truck in the snow belt, well yes, it came with a plow package from the factory, certainly not using it in Arizona!
    By the way it has the plow package but has ever been used as a plow truck just happened to get a good deal on it without the blade in the spring.
    You'd think that knowing a plow truck gets used in a snowbelt some adequate corrosion protection might be a good idea.
    My wife as a 2003 VW GTi with a little over 100,000 miles is there s hardly any corrosion, and yes we both drive it in the snow, gets much better mileage than the truck.
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    I had a 94 GM pick up for 10 yrs, never had a rust problem, and that truck ran good, put 244,000 miles on it with normal repairs except a fuel pump. I still have my 91 s10 with no rust at all. That's why I bought another Gm in 2002. What a piece of JUNK. Road salt my butt. I was told it's the brine they use now. The US has been using brine for yrs. Gm doesn't give a crap at all, and us citizens bailed them out. They took profits VS safety, and they still went bankrupt. I just spent $2000 on brake lines, hoses, calibers so i'll keep it thru this winter then out it goes before the fuel lines and everything else falls off the truck. Then it will go to the auction, I would not be able to look a buyer in the eye knowing he is buying a death trap.

    i'll say it again, I'm on here for the sole reason to get GM truck owners informed before we read a post about an injury or DEATH. Get your truck brakes lines fixed now, before they give out. When it happens, and it will, it's just like a murder movie where the wife cuts the husbands brakes lines and he goes over a cliff. Ya,, it's that quick.
  • dhb4dhb4 Member Posts: 4
    The abs light has been coming on quite frequently on my 06 gmc Sierra. At slow speeds the abs makes a ratcheting sound when I'm not even touching the break. When I do push on the pedal it sometimes pulsates. It doesn't matter if it is raining or on a dirt or paved road.
    Anyone have any ideas?
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    The ABS was another problem along with rusting brake and fuel lines. There was a recall where all the dealer did was blow dirt off the senors at each wheel. This didn't help. I ended up pulling the ABS fuse and cured problem. Note the ABS light will stay on all the time. Mine is a 2002 pick up. Not sure if the 2006 was recalled for this. The brake pedal would go to the floor at around 5 mph, and you won't be able to stop fast in traffic or pulling in a parking place. Pumping when this happens would help, but in a panic situation, your screwed. I don't think they figured a fix for this either. And don't forget to check ALL your brake lines for rusting ! Not sure if the 2006 was affected with that problem too.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good morning dhb4,

    If you decide you want to get your ABS system serviced at your local dealership and wanted for us to work with you through that process, please don't hesitate to contact us at [email protected] (include your name and contact information, summary of the situation, the last 8 of your VIN and mileage, and the name of your dealer).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    My sensors were replaced on the recall notice (2000 Silverado 2500) The problem reappeared 2 yrs later. I pulled everything apart to get to them (their behind the hub so it all has to come off on the 2500 just to get to them) cleaned and reinstalled. All good for another year now sensors are kicking on @5mph flat surface dry pavement road for NO reason at all. I have reported issue to NHTSA as well as the brake line rusting/gas line rusting & transmission lines rusting.
    Maybe if enough of us do it something will happen. ( I'm thinking this way based on my brothers Toyota pick truck "silent recall" for the entire frame being replaced do to rust issues).

    I'm not sure what GM Sarah is gonna do for you other then set-up an appt. Listening to other posters, they still had to pay for the repair.
    Keep us informed on your out come and don't forget to file a report with NHTSA https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov

    Ray T
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Hateful Jim here- Not sure if you've seen my first posts, but your truck is now doing the same thing mine did right before i hit the HUGE yellow pole in LOWES parking lot, trying to miss the SUV in the spot directly in front of me.
    Found this site and found out that when the wheel bearings are just starting to wear out, NOT EVEN ENOUGH TO DETECT, the bearings let the hub wobble just enough for the sensors to detect the wobble, and it confuses the sensors, causing the abs to activate. The only different symptom your having is that your getting it "when i'm not even touching the brake", mine did it immediately at soft braking, hard braking didnt matter, at that point no braking. GM said nothing was wrong with my truck, but the pole at LOWES didnt care much for GM's diagnosis!! Check your hubs, it might save your life.!!
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Hey Sarah, Thanks for the laugh. I really needed that. To think that Garbage Motors cares, or even intends to "work with you thru the process", THATS A JOKE-Ha ha, dang, bout fell outa my chair there laughing.
    What are they gonna do, help her put a downpayment on a toyota??

    Hey- keep them jokes coming- days are tough here in this rough economy. Us hardworking middle class ( NON UNION/ NON AUTO INDUSTRY EMPLOYEES), workers that dont make a weeks pay per day, and cant get a bail out, we need a good laugh a day.
    Drive slowly, remember that GM your drivin may just get you killed!!
    HATEFUL JIM SAID THAT- Ya'll have a great day!!
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Jim,

    Your like a good cup of coffee and comedy show first thing in the morn'in. :P

    I think GM Sarah is an Avatar in GMcustomer service dept. ;) not real but out spoken ;)

    Ray T :shades:
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    LOL Jim, Good posts. I still haven't seen anyone getting results from the customer service rep who replies on here. How about telling us that someone has actually got their truck repaired PAID by GM.

    I get better results posting stupid stuff on Facebook.
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Jim here. Hey thanks, truth is, i mean every word of it. Hey- I'm 51, i bought my 1st Chevy truck in 1979 at 18 years old, and it was a hell of a truck. To date i have owned 5 or 6 chevy's, and they ALL were super trucks. BUT- and thats a BIG butt- somewhere down the line, Chevy went from building dependable trucks for the working man, to making cheap trucks to profit!!

    Hey- wife and i have been talking for a couple of years about buying a camper to tow to Clearwater Beach, and setting it up so we would have one there when we go down every year ( I REALLY love the Tampa Bay area, best place i've ever been, i reside in the great state of North Carolina). BUT- like i told her last week, BEFORE i buy a camper to tow to Florida, HELL, I'd have to buy a truck to pull it with!! I'd be afraid to tow a camper for an 8 hour drive, only to break down halfway there.

    Remember, GM is the most dependable trucks on the road (at breaking down and GM not finding anything wrong with them, that is)
    YA'll have a great day, HATEFUL JIM said that.
  • homeyvarterhomeyvarter Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get an answer to this problem? I too installed a bug shield and now have static in the speakers! Do you have the Bose speakers mounted in your A-pillars? That is where the static seems to be coming from. I winder ifnthere is some shielding that might stop it?
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    Ditto on "Chevy went from building dependable trucks for the working man, to making cheap trucks to profit". I too have a 30ft camper and no way will i pull it with the Chevy, be afraid of something falling off the truck and being stuck. I bought a 07 Ford E150 van new, with 125k on it, not one problem and plenty of tow power. I only keep the Chevy pick up for 4 wheel drive when it snows. (Eastern PA.) I do drive it more now that in the past 3 yrs I've spent $4k on EVERYTHING associated with brakes,master cyl, calibers, lines, front hubs and wheel bearings.
    As I always mention, I'm on here not to just complain about GM trucks, but to make others aware they are driving an unsafe vehicle. Get it fixed now!

    Chevy 2002 4x4 pickup
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    :confuse: Radio static & ABS brake problems are not one in the same, your on the wrong page homey.................
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    Yeah, its a damn shame, you pay this much for a truck, and get it paid off, after paying all that money, its not worth anything, so you cant sell it, Its a piece of s__t, so your afraid to go on a long trip with it, with anything valuable in tow, and IBD (we all know what that means), if i'm gonna plunk down another 25000 for another truck. Even if i did, WOULDNT BE A CHEVY!!
  • pj43pj43 Member Posts: 9
    Problem w/front callipers. Replaced both, put new pads also. Blead brakes real good, everything
    looked fine, know I have no pedal whats so ever? New Year, not so happy. Could use some advise.
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    edited January 2013
    Hi, you didn't say when this happens. All the time ?, just when slowing to stop, etc. Did you bleed all 4 wheels ? Here is a quick run down of brake problems with these trucks. My experience would say, if all the time, its master cylinder or a blown out brake line leaking fluid. When slowing to stop sign, ABS could be acting up. Pedal feels good until you just about stop, then you will feel a vibration from ABS activating. When the ABS acts up, it will also give the same symptoms as a bad master cylinder. This can be proved by pulling the ABS fuse. I''ve been driving with the ABS fuse out for 3 yrs. This was a recall, but GM never actually fixed the problem.
    I'm not a mechanic by trade, just posting how I solved my problems. More importantly, look at your brake lines on the frame, they will rust out with no warning !! I've replaced everything, pads, rotors, hubs/bearings,etc, It was;t until the brake lines rusted out and replaced, that the brakes felt better since new.

    How about some more details. These truck have numerous brake problems. ABS senors fail, brake lines rusting, front hubs/bearings, all brake related.
  • hateful_jimhateful_jim Member Posts: 43
    yeah, i hate to complain too, but i watch this site pretty much to know what to expect next on my flowerpot. Hateful Jim said that!!
  • snikardsnikard Member Posts: 1
    My problem exactly. Replaced both front sensors and still the same. Any more ideas anyone?
  • mmaple16mmaple16 Member Posts: 3
  • lon986lon986 Member Posts: 4
    Are there any free copies available??
  • dhb4dhb4 Member Posts: 4
    Hi. I have to replace my drivers side temperature blend door actuator. Just wondering if anyone could tell me what's involved in calibrating it.
  • repsol17repsol17 Member Posts: 3
    Hello, new to site and hoping for help !
    I'm pretty much a DIY guy but I'm currently baffled by something that's never troubled me before, installing brakes. I recently purchased a 95 stepside (excellent shape) from someone who mostly garaged the truck. At the purchase I was informed that there was a "pulling to the left" when ever you stepped on the brakes. I instantly thought..air in the brake lines, piece of cake. The previous owner stated he tried fixing with no luck by replacing the Master Cylinder and new steel brake lines. Since, I've installed new front pads and calipers and rear shoes with new wheel cylinders to both sides. I also bled the system with new fluids, have no air in lines and I have full/hard petal. The ABS dummy light also remains on as like the day I bought it from the previous owner. Basically it's a complete new system from master cylinder, steel lines to brakes and wheel cylinders and I'm still getting a hard pulling to the left when you mash the brakes. Sometimes it almost jerks the steering wheel from your hands if you really get into the brakes (sudden stopping). I have no sounds coming from the brakes, overall it's a quite ride and there's no play or slop in the steering. I've also replaced all tie rods with alignment. Drives straight as an arrow except the moment you mash the brake pedal.
    I haven't replaced the front disc cause the old pads had even wear so I didn't think they were warped. Nor did I replace the flex hydraulic lines on either side since I was getting good brake fluid flow as I was bleeding the brakes along with the pads grabbing the disc.
    Could it be any of the ABS Control Module, the ABS Hydraulic Unit or the ABS Modulator Valve ?

    I'm out of ideas..about to take to a shop and have them go over everything..which I'm gonna hate. Cause I just know they'll try and sell me land in the desert for something that's an easy fix. Everything is completely new !

    anyone have any suggestions..would be greatly appreciated
    thx
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    edited February 2013
    It may be your ABS control. There is a company that rebuilds these here is the Link... http://www.absfixer.com/ It disconnects from frame fairly easy and still allows use of vehicle you just don't have ABS anymore it's like the old style brake systems at this point.

    For the sake of a few dollars I would also replace the front rubber hose lines, a good flow with bleeding may not show a partial wall separation within which will hinder actual brake usage under pressure....my 2 cents worth.
    I had hard pulling to left which turned out to be bad left rear caliper but you have already gone that route.

    What ever you do DO NOT let GM Sarah get involved, she is this forums site TROLL ;)
  • repsol17repsol17 Member Posts: 3
    Thx Rayt2, I haven't replaces the flex hydraulic lines yet..about the only thing I haven't replaced. I had someone on another forum say the same "to replace those lines", that they had a tendency to collapse on the inside. If I have the same results after I may have to go the ABS control route..about the only thing left..lol, thx again. Everything helps :)
  • lerxstdirkpratlerxstdirkprat Member Posts: 1
    I know this may be minor, but... have you ever given thought of it not being the LF brake? I have in past come across where one wheel is froze OPEN for whatever reason, and you get a pull to left because the RF caliper is froze open,etc. therefore making it feel/look like a pull to left when in fact it just pulling because its the only one working. You maybe have got there already but I figured I would throw it out there. Sometimes you just have to step back and look at it in different light. It also could be proportioning valve. You also should look at defective NEW parts. It happens from time to time.
    Good Luck
  • rgcchevyrgcchevy Member Posts: 2
    I have been having issues with my 2006 Chevy Silverado truck jumping forward as I brake at the end nearly eight to ten feet. It feels like the transmission is lurching, brakes letting go and then back on. I had rotors replaced last week and there was no change. Had service place re-install original rotors since it had no impact. Now I am looking for a solution on what to do next. The service garage suggested ABS was malfunctioning and that they have had several Chevy trucks with similar issues to have it temporarily repaired and come back within six months.
  • repsol17repsol17 Member Posts: 3
    You may be able to pull the fuse under the hood in the secondary fuse panel. Sounds like the abs pump is bad. I would have a good brake mechanic run a computer diagnostic on the car.
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    edited May 2013
    Sounds like ABS, go back to some of my post and hateful jim 's, around post 510 up to 530 or so. I ended up pulling my ABS fuse, no problem for 3 yrs since.
    It doesn;t always show up on computer diagnostics, Pull the fuse should solve, the ABS light will stay on, I've had 3 panic stops and no problem with fuse pulled.
    Just as important>>> check for rusting brakes line,too. This is a completely different problem with these trucks. If you are showing any rust, get them all change now, before they start leaking and go out. It's just like a murder movie when the bad guy cuts the brakes line and car goes over cliff. Do it! I noticed it, read about it, but never changed until my lines burst in a panic stop.
  • rgcchevyrgcchevy Member Posts: 2
    How will I know which fuse to pull?
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    The fuse is marked ABS on the fuse block. Mine was under the steering column. I could feel the difference in good brake pedal right away.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    My 2000 Silverado fuse box was under the engine compartment hood and fuse was marked on underside of the panel cover for the ABS system.
    There is also a company that repairs the ABS Units http://absfixer.com/

    Do replace brake lines as mentioned if they are showing signs of rust deterioration, mine blew out on the two separate occasions between front and rear, luckily no accident occurred.

    My transmission lines and gas lines are next to get done with these rusting :sick: trucks. Chevy has a terrible track record with the trucks as far as rust goes, but they got us to buy them so their CEO's get the bonus checks....
  • mrfixit911mrfixit911 Member Posts: 31
    Gas and transmission lines too ? Geeze. i've all ready got $2k into the brakes lines, including being towed 75 miles when brake lines went out. I think it;s time to trade, the total bill with hubs n wheel bearings, sensors, brake lines, I'm in $4500 in repairs. Can't stomach $$$ for the fuel and transmission lines too. 2002 silverado.
  • mjroostermjrooster Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 2003 1500 a while back. After going back several times and having the brakes completely redone on all four wheels it turned out that the ABS sensors were blocked with corrosion and had to be cleaned. have your mechanic check for this problem and let us know how you make out.
  • camzcamz Member Posts: 1
    just had the same problem on my chevy 1500 01,

    horrible grinding noise all of the sudden coming for the rear brakes!
    so i pull apart the brakes and calib, and the inside rear brake on the passenger side was completely worn to the metal when the other three were still at 30 percent!?!?

    and the caliber was not seized!
    stupid chevy cant make rear brakes
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