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If the entire LED light is out, it could have been damaged by high voltage, but that is not likely. Check your owners manual and see if there is a specific fuse for the third brake light.
Also, more recently, the ABS and Parking lights will sometimes light up on the dash, unless I shut off the engine and restart. Then it all works fine. Any help would be appreciated.
Here's the procedure if you are interested:
REMOVAL
Remove or disconnect the following:
1. Make sure the lever is in the center or "Off" position.
2. Negative battery cable.
3. Disable the SIR system. (Supplemental Inflatable Restraint )
4. Inflator module.
5. Tilt wheel lever.
6. Horn contact (if equipped with SIR).
7. Horn pad assembly (if not equipped with SIR).
8. Steering wheel nut.
9. Steering wheel using a steering wheel puller.
10. Knee bolster.
11. Loosen steering column bracket nuts.
12. Two TORX(R) head screws from lower column cover.
13. Lower column cover. Tilt cover down and slide back to disengage locking tabs.
14. Two TORX(R) head screws from upper column cover.
15. Steering column lock set.
16. Upper column cover.
17. Two wire harness straps from steering column wire harness.
18. Retainer CPA (Connector Position Assurance) and connector from BTSI. (Brake Transmission Shift Interlock )
19. Steering column bulkhead connector from vehicle wire harness.
20. Gray and black connectors of switch from column bulkhead connector.
21. Two TORX(R) head screws on switch.
22. Multifunction turn signal/hazard switch.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion Inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install or connect the following:
1. Multifunction turn signal/hazard switch.
o Use small blade screwdriver to compress electrical contact and move multifunction switch into position.
o Electrical contact must rest on cancelling cam assembly.
2. Two TORX(R) head screws on switch. Tighten to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) .
3. Gray and black connectors of switch to column bulkhead connector.
4. Steering column bulkhead connector to vehicle wire harness.
5. Connector and retainer CPA to BTSI.
6. Two wire straps on steering column wire harness.
7. Upper column cover.
8. Steering column bracket nuts. Tighten to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .
9. Knee bolster.
10. Steering column cylinder lock set.
11. Two TORX(R) head screws to upper column cover. Tighten to 1.4 Nm (12 inch lbs.) .
12. Lower column cover.
13. Two TORX(R) head screws to lower column cover. Tighten to 6 Nm (53 inch lbs.) .
14. Make sure the lever is in the center or "OFF" position.
15. Steering wheel onto the steering shaft.
16. Steering wheel nut. Tighten to 40 Nm (29 ft. lbs.) .
17. Horn pad assembly (if not equipped with SIR).
18. Horn contact (if equipped with SIR).
19. Inflator module.
20. Tilt wheel lever.
21. Negative battery cable.
22. Enable the SIR system (if equipped).
If the inside of the cap is corroded, pull the distributor and yank out those screens.
Previous poster's question about fuel pressure is also a good one--check your fuel pressure.
The directional/cruise control signal arm on my 2000 Chevy Blazer fails to stay engaged when making a left turn. Any step-by-step help in replacing the arm would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Thanks
Do not install those aftermarket end-clamps because they are just a temporary repair. If your AC Delco battery cable clamps are old or they are those aftermarket type clamps, replace them with new AC Delco side terminal battery cables and install a AC Delco 75-60 battery. A new AC Delco positive battery cable is somewhat difficult to replace if you want to route it the same way the original cable was routed. Unfortunately, that is about the only way you can route the positive battery cable in order to clear the exhaust system and attach it to the starter. .
I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer. First the windshield wipers were acting funny, they sometimes wont stop after I turn them on. Then the blinker on the right side keeps acting like it is on intermittently. Then the dome lights quit working and now the light that lights up where you push the button to put it into 4WD or 2WD is not working, and so it is stuck in 2WD. I need 4WD because it gets very icy and snowy here in Wyoming. Can all these things be related? A friend tried a new cylinoid and a new computer box, but still no luck. Please help me!!
Okay, lets break this down. Wipers won't turn off, turn signal issue. Probably a bad multifunction switch there on the column. There have also been issues with wipers in the past where the solder joint of the connector on the circuit board of the wiper motor assembly cracks. You unplug the harness, remove the cover, and check the connector for cracked joints. Clean, resolder, reassemble. Don't need to replace the board, it will work when resoldered. Done lots of these.
Dome lights. Does anything turn them on? Any door, or the switch on the instrument panel?
The 2WD/4WD issue can be a bad solenoid at the transfer case, or a bad vacuum line. Others with 4WD have seen this issue, try searching for it.
Hazard and brake lights are on the same circuit, at least partially. Both go through the flasher unit behind the dash, and guess what, they also go through that little multifunction switch mentioned earlier.
So, it sounds like most of your problems are related to the servo engagement circuit for the 4WD, and the multifunction switch in the steering column. There is a detailed procedure on changing the switch on the previous page.
Hope that helps.
There is a intermitten short causing a batttery drain. When the battery was checked for a battery drain, the short was not present. My 1991 Blazer had a battery drain and it was found to be a bad power door lock relay. The bad relay completely discharged the battery after I did not drive the vehicle for five days. Bad relays are common causes of battery drains.
Replace:
The on/off- dome light dimmer switch..
The door switches.
They are inexpensive. See if doing that solves the problem.
I have a 1998 Chevy blazer.
Thanks for the help..
Wrench54
1.) Are the ignition and positive battery cable connections on the starter clean and tight?
2.) Is the positive cable on the battery clean and tight?
3.) When was the last time you replaced the fuel filter?
4.) The fuel pump inside the tank may be failing and must be replaced along with the in-tank wiring harness and screen.
5.) The fuel pressure regulator may be failing.
Unfortunately the fuel pressure regulator is a intergral part of the MPI (Mmulti- Port Injection) system and is located under the intake manifold top section. You can replace the pressure regulator without replacing the MPI system (spider) by installing a Dorman #55162 (retail $36.99) fuel pressure regulator. As far as I know Dorman is the only company that offers a fuel prssure regulator that is separate from the entire MPI (Multi-Port Injector) for the MPI system.
Be advised: The entire MPI system (GM-17113673) including the fuel pressure regulator has a MSRP of $577.49 plus about $200 labor to replace it. If the pressure regulator is bad, just replace the OEM regulator with the Dorman #55162 regulator.
4WD: Vacuum lines or switch gone bad?
A dragging starter can draw HUGE amperage, as in hundreds of amperes. That'll make your wiring harness dance.
NAPA has the best remanufactured products. NAPA remanufactured starters cost from $100 + $29 core deposit for a standard starter to $144 + $60 core deposit for a premium remanufactured starter. Both starters include a new solenoid. Replace the old worn out starter and you will be amazed how well the engine starts.
As you found out, there was nothing wrong with your original ignition switch. Ignition switches seldom fail. I have never had to replace a ignition switch after 50 years keeping my old cars in good condition.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
about 20 minutes to do the recall. Solder on the printed circut board would crack thus
leaving them inoperable. I know this because it happened to me. There was no problem scheduling the vehicle for the recall because they are able to do it very
quik.
engage the starter drive gear which cranks the engine. One of the other small wires supply power to the ignition thus making the engine fire when the ignition switch is released. Of course to test the starter on the vehicle you'll have to have someone to help you.Use a voltmeter or a old 12volt bulb and socket you may have laying around. I use a side marker light and 194 bulb for this.Make sure the vehicle is in neuteral or park also. If there is no one to help,chock the wheels,turn the ignition on run. Get under vehicle with a screwdriver and bridge the solenoid using the large battery wire and the small wire on the solenoid. the engine should crank.If you get no results,start checking for a break in voltage between the ignition switch and the starter.Let me know what happens and I have a couple more things to add that may help.