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check every single fuse on the panel both under the hood and in the dash if all the fuses check out fine than there has to be a relay somewhere that we are over looking im going to look into this solution tomorrow myself and if i get it fixed i will let you know my results.....
This last week the problem came back in force until the speedometer dropped to 0 and would not come up . The car then shifted down to first gear and would not change upwards. I could manually move the transmission down to second and it would shift . However it would not shift higher into third or D. My mechanice was positive the problem was the alternator and changed it out. The car drove fine home from the shop. It drove fine half way , a 48 mile drive, to work the next day. Then the problem started again. I was able to make it to work but just barely. At lunch time I checked all the battery connections and the connections to the alternator. Everything seemed fine. I drove the car around a few minutes around my job and no problem. I attempted to drive home from work and only made it 9 miles before the problem became so bad that I had to park it.
The next day I towed the car to the closest Goodyear. They checked everything they could think of all day. The only thing they could come up with was the paossiblity the battery cables were loose. They cleaned the cables really well and tightened them back down. I was able to get the car about 10 miles before I was back on the side of the road.
My thought is there is some relay or fuse that runs fine until it gets a certain temperature and then it quits working. I will say the car temperature has always read fine. I feel that this is specific to whatever electrical component is in play. It took about 4 hours today to limp the car the additional 30 miles home. Everytime it would act up we would let it rest for about 30 minutes. It would drive fine for a mile or two and start back up again.
I would appreciatte any suggestions or thoughts on what anyone might think is wrong with the vehicle. I am almost 900 bucks in this week in towing fees and mechanic bills. I presently have it parked at a shop that speciallizes in car electrical problems for $90 an hour.
LOTS OF LUCK. CHARLIIE AT LUCKYMURFF@AOL.COM
That is why you hardly ever see an S10 on used car lots. That is because by the time an S10 is more than six or seven years old it is worthless and is sent to the salvage yard. When a S10 reaches the salvage yard it is immediately crushed because there is nothing on it worth salvaging.
Some auto repair shops refuse to work on a S10 because when the owner gets the bill, he will tell the shop to keep the car and sell for charges...if they can. I had a shop refuse to bleed my1991 S10 Blazer ABS brakes because they did not have a GM Tech 1 scan tool and did the did not have an employee that know how to do it. A GM Tech 1 scan tool costs about $400 and the repair shop would not use it more than once every four or five years. I finally bled the brake without a Tech 1 scan tool but it took two people and about 8 hours to do it. That would be $1100 at a auto repair shop.
From what you described, it sounds like the voltage regulator on the alternator failed. There is a chance that voltage spikes may have damaged the computer. I would have it checked by a Chevy dealer. If the computer is fine, there is a chance the replacement alternator is defective. Most alternators that you buy at auto parts stores are not new, they are remanufactured. They take old alternators and replace only what they have to in order to get them working again. They then send them back to the stores to be resold. I can't tell you how many parts I have had to take back due to remanufacturing defect.
Also, check with your insurance company for emergency roadside assistance. I have it on my insurance for $3 a month and it covers all towing within 50 miles of the towing destination. It's saved me several times.
I had the same problem with my 98 Blazer. The problem is definetly the low speed sensors I changed mine and it still didn't work most of the time when you replace the sensors alone they don't work. I replaced the both hubs with the matching sensors and that did the trick!!!! Actually it dosen't hurt to replace the hubs as part of your maintenance. Good luck
I know its been a long time since you posted the problem with your blazer (4x4 problem) I was wondering if you ever fixed it and if you did what the problem was? :confuse:
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I go to http://www.picknpull.com for my wrecking parts.
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One more thing...
REMOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL FOR THIS REPAIR!!!
When working around the steering wheel there is always the chance that you might trigger the airbag.
I will post when I find the solution.
Bitter