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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems

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  • terry113terry113 Member Posts: 2
    power locks, rear hatch and power windows just stopped working can you help with the fix , thanks
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    That appears to be a blown fuse.
  • hatemyblazerhatemyblazer Member Posts: 1
    Okay so I just got a call from my husband who is stuck at the gas station....we have a 95 s10 blazer. My husband was coming home from work and stopped to get milk, when he went to turn the blazer back on, the headlights are not working. Both sides. No brights either. He says the fuses and bulbs are good...what else could be the problem????
  • sev85sev85 Member Posts: 1
    i have a similar issue on a 93 s10 pickup and i have replaced the main circuit breakers for the power acc. and the power windows on the fuse panel under the dash and have traced wires all day and have found no shorts or breaks in wires and than began trouble shooting power issues and traced the power wires all the way into the power motors inside the doors both locks and windows on both doors and have power to both motors....... i was reading a post a few mins ago about a 2000 chevy astro van same issues guy went thru every single fuse on the panel found a fuse blown for a secondary cigarette lighter replaced it and it worked so im thinking somehwere might be a relay that doubles over for switches and ties into this system somewhere and that fuse is blown causing the relay not to work

    check every single fuse on the panel both under the hood and in the dash if all the fuses check out fine than there has to be a relay somewhere that we are over looking im going to look into this solution tomorrow myself and if i get it fixed i will let you know my results.....
  • terry113terry113 Member Posts: 2
    that would be very helpfull , thank you , i do have multiple cigerette lighter holes for other things , there rite above the center console on the pass side , but i think they work , it all started with the push button latch on the rear gate , theyres no key hole to unlock it , its a push button on the outside , that goes to a power lock ,i didnt think to much about it at the time just figured it was a bad push button , then , months later the power locks and now the power mirrors , i think somewhere i read there is a service bulletin from gm, about what to do to fix it , i dont know , but any thing you find out would realy help , thanks
  • tlmorgantlmorgan Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    I have a 99 Blazer with just under 200k miles on it. Over the summer I took a business trip to Myrtle Beach. On the way home I started getting a surge that would knock the cruise control off. After a little while I noticed the dash lights had a quick power surge on and off. Then my gauges started bounced, specifically the speedometer. When the speedometer would fluctuate wildly and drop down in speed the transmission would begin switching to match the speedometer. Eventually this stopped and I was able to make it home to Atlanta. This problem never came back as bad until recently. Usually it would happen for just a minute or two randomly and then go away.
    This last week the problem came back in force until the speedometer dropped to 0 and would not come up . The car then shifted down to first gear and would not change upwards. I could manually move the transmission down to second and it would shift . However it would not shift higher into third or D. My mechanice was positive the problem was the alternator and changed it out. The car drove fine home from the shop. It drove fine half way , a 48 mile drive, to work the next day. Then the problem started again. I was able to make it to work but just barely. At lunch time I checked all the battery connections and the connections to the alternator. Everything seemed fine. I drove the car around a few minutes around my job and no problem. I attempted to drive home from work and only made it 9 miles before the problem became so bad that I had to park it.
    The next day I towed the car to the closest Goodyear. They checked everything they could think of all day. The only thing they could come up with was the paossiblity the battery cables were loose. They cleaned the cables really well and tightened them back down. I was able to get the car about 10 miles before I was back on the side of the road.
    My thought is there is some relay or fuse that runs fine until it gets a certain temperature and then it quits working. I will say the car temperature has always read fine. I feel that this is specific to whatever electrical component is in play. It took about 4 hours today to limp the car the additional 30 miles home. Everytime it would act up we would let it rest for about 30 minutes. It would drive fine for a mile or two and start back up again.
    I would appreciatte any suggestions or thoughts on what anyone might think is wrong with the vehicle. I am almost 900 bucks in this week in towing fees and mechanic bills. I presently have it parked at a shop that speciallizes in car electrical problems for $90 an hour.
  • chucky315chucky315 Member Posts: 1
    OK HERE GOES I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM ON MY 1995 S10 AND DROVE ME CRAZY. aLL YOUR FRONT WIRING AND REAR WIRING LIGHTS ARE CONNECTED TO THE EMERGENCY FLASHER IN THE COLUMN. YOU WILL LOOSE LIGHTS AND THINGS WILL GO CRAZY. FIX TAKE A SMALL SCREW DRIVER JEWLERS UNIT AND PRY THE DIRECTIONAL SWITCH INSERT OUT OF THE COLUMN. GET A NEW EMERGENCY SWITCH INSERT AND JUST PUSH IT INTO THE COLUMN HOUSING WHERE YOU JUST PULLED OUT THE OLD ONE. PART IS AVAILABLE AT THE DEALER FOR ABOUT AROUND $25 DOLLARS IF I REMEMBER
    LOTS OF LUCK. CHARLIIE AT LUCKYMURFF@AOL.COM
  • mimi46mimi46 Member Posts: 1
    I recently replaced my battery on my 2001 jimmy a few weeks latter my doors would not lock with my remote which has new battery also, and when i used the power locks a fuse blew and every time i replace it, it blows again and without my power locks i cant lock the rear hatch does anone have any ideas. Thanks
  • blueheron1blueheron1 Member Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem with the wipers that also caused my cruise control to work rarely if at all. After several expensive attempts to fix my problems, I discovered that replacing the fuses improved matters. Eventually I replaced or reconditioned all fuses in both the dash and underhood boxes. Again, things improved but were not entirely reliable. I then pulled the fuses again and sprayed all of the fuse sockets with T40, and anti-corrosion formulation. I also sprayed a few accessible harness sockets. That was two months ago. No electrical problems since.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    I do not know how a S10 Chevrolet can survive in the rust belt for more than five years because of the corrosion of the delicate electrical connections. The S10 is a delicate vehicle and needs constant attention.

    That is why you hardly ever see an S10 on used car lots. That is because by the time an S10 is more than six or seven years old it is worthless and is sent to the salvage yard. When a S10 reaches the salvage yard it is immediately crushed because there is nothing on it worth salvaging.

    Some auto repair shops refuse to work on a S10 because when the owner gets the bill, he will tell the shop to keep the car and sell for charges...if they can. I had a shop refuse to bleed my1991 S10 Blazer ABS brakes because they did not have a GM Tech 1 scan tool and did the did not have an employee that know how to do it. A GM Tech 1 scan tool costs about $400 and the repair shop would not use it more than once every four or five years. I finally bled the brake without a Tech 1 scan tool but it took two people and about 8 hours to do it. That would be $1100 at a auto repair shop.
  • fonziesmurffonziesmurf Member Posts: 3
    Me and my wife had a similar problem with a 1992 Honda Accord. We had replaced the distributor to solve a problem with an engine code reporting a failure of the TDC position sensor. The car worked fine for a few days. Then, after driving the car for about 20 miles, the car sputtered. Less than a minute later, the car completely died. I couldn't start it again for at least an hour. Turns out a sensor in the alternator was overheating and shutting down the spark network. When it dies, you can check for spark by pulling one of the plug wires and inserting a flathead screwdriver into the socket on the wire. Do not hold onto the screwdriver for the next step. Have someone try to start the vehicle and see if there is a spark. If there is no spark, pull the wire off of the distributor that leads from the ignition coil. Repeat the previous test with the screwdriver in the wire from the coil. If there is spark, the problem may be with the distributor cap and rotor. If there is no spark, the coil may be bad. An overheating coil can fail and then work again once cooled.

    From what you described, it sounds like the voltage regulator on the alternator failed. There is a chance that voltage spikes may have damaged the computer. I would have it checked by a Chevy dealer. If the computer is fine, there is a chance the replacement alternator is defective. Most alternators that you buy at auto parts stores are not new, they are remanufactured. They take old alternators and replace only what they have to in order to get them working again. They then send them back to the stores to be resold. I can't tell you how many parts I have had to take back due to remanufacturing defect.

    Also, check with your insurance company for emergency roadside assistance. I have it on my insurance for $3 a month and it covers all towing within 50 miles of the towing destination. It's saved me several times.
  • pinked77pinked77 Member Posts: 1
    I have 1995 S10 Chevy Blazer. Recently I've had issues starting it. In the beginning it would take 3 - 4 turns of the key to start it. Now it has progressed to 3-4 turns of the key with a pump of the gas pedal. New this morning. Turned the key and got no dash lights and CD player did the eject as if battery was disconnected, then another turn of the key power restored and a few more turns of the key and a pump or 2 of the gas pedal and it started. Any ideas what to check for an easy fix?
  • 97greenjimmy97greenjimmy Member Posts: 4
    I think I may have found my salvation! Years ago my power locks, seats, and remote stopped working. I took it to the dealer and they couldn't fix it but I had to pay $300 labor. The dome light also went on and off by itself, but that's minor :-) Then the key became stuck in the igniton. Now about 3 months ago, the AC would momentarily turn off when I hit any of the power window buttons (includes heat or any blower functions at all)--then the 2 brake lights on the dash started going on and off constantly--at this point the the AC and windows entirely ceased to function. I'm a divorced mom and I don't have anyone to help me, and auto problems are a HUGE expense. I have had this truck for 10 yrs and it has been so reliable it ALWAYS starts for me but this was making it impossible here in FL not being able to turn on the AC OR ROLL THE WINDOWS down when it's 98 outside. I'm going to buy the IGN switch and change it out and I hope so much this fixes it! TY ALL!
  • nickyp1nickyp1 Member Posts: 7
    If this only effects the automatic headlights but they work if you turn the switch manually you might have a weak spring on the emergency bake if the E-brake is depressed even slightly it will disable the automatic headlights from working....Good luck :D
  • nickyp1nickyp1 Member Posts: 7
    Hi,
    I had the same problem with my 98 Blazer. The problem is definetly the low speed sensors I changed mine and it still didn't work most of the time when you replace the sensors alone they don't work. I replaced the both hubs with the matching sensors and that did the trick!!!! Actually it dosen't hurt to replace the hubs as part of your maintenance. Good luck :)
  • nickyp1nickyp1 Member Posts: 7
    edited March 2014
    Hi,
    I know its been a long time since you posted the problem with your blazer (4x4 problem) I was wondering if you ever fixed it and if you did what the problem was? :confuse:

    [Email removed]
  • one_s10_blazerone_s10_blazer Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I also have a 1995 S10 Blazer and have had EXACTLY the same issues with mine, and got those issues fixed. With mine, there were two things going on: the hard starting was due to an old and crusty distributor cap that needed to be replaced (go ahead and put a new rotor on while you're at it). Cost: about $50. As for the electrical issues, that's all in the multi-switch. Unfortunately, many of the blazers electrical functions (lights, wipers, cruise control) all run through the multi-switch on your steering column. It's not too hard to replace (and can be done without taking off the steering wheel if you're patient) but the OEM price is over $200. I looked around & found one at an online discount parts place, brand new & looks exactly the same as the original for under $70 (including shipping). Looks like you're in luck because I emailed myself the link to that part when I found it so I wouldn't lose it. Here it is. That's my 2 cents. Good luck!
  • ddelanddelan Member Posts: 1
    i also have a 95 blazer s10. i found that the wire attached to battery wire the thin line did not have a good connection and car would not start and stalled out a few times before i fixed it. keep that in mind. danny.......
  • ryanlindsey22ryanlindsey22 Member Posts: 1
    So i have been having Electrical problems with the suv lately mainly the windows would go down but not back up, or would go down very slow, or not at all. so i took it into goodyear they said i needed an ignition switch$, so i had it done. tested the windows in the lot they went up down fine, go it home they would not work. so i started playing around and found that the fuse( circuit breaker) for the power windows was getting so hot that i could barley touch it. Why is that, i assume its why the windows will not work. I was told i needed a new alternator, or i have a short in a door or somewhere. also sometimes the voltage gauge is low or moves. I have found that leaving the fuse( circuit breaker) out while running the truck and only putting it in to roll the windows up in down works half the time (thank god i have a garage) but when i pull the fuse out( circuit breaker), it is so hot i cant touch it. Any idea on what it could be before i go have this alternator done?
  • pleasantstylepleasantstyle Member Posts: 1
    While driving, I constantly hear blinking as if I have my signal light on. It is not blinking/flashing on my dashboard, but always hear it blinking while car is running and driving; not when car is turned off. It doesn't appear externally, so it isn't a hazard while driving; only annoying to hear. Signal lights work just fine. I've replaced the flasher relay, not the problem. Anyone heard of a Steering column recall.
  • at_the_desertat_the_desert Member Posts: 1
    I can not open the tailgate of my blazer 2000. When pressing the button sounds like it is trying but does not open.
  • bob_55bob_55 Member Posts: 3
    edited November 2012
    If you do have to replace the signal switch, or any part, for an even cheaper solution try an auto-wrecker. However the two down sides are: 1) You may have to get the part out yourself. Get the part out of the wrecked car first, that way you can figure out how it is removed without worrying about breaking the "decorative" plastic pieces on the steering column. The other problem 2) is that the part you are getting may have (or soon have) a similar issue. That being said at $20 each it is much cheaper.

    I go to http://www.picknpull.com for my wrecking parts.
  • bob_55bob_55 Member Posts: 3
    edited March 2014
    If you do have to replace the signal switch, or any part, for an even cheaper solution try an auto-wrecker. However the two down sides are: 1) You may have to get the part out yourself. Get the part out of the wrecked car first, that way you can figure out how it is removed without worrying about breaking the "decorative" plastic pieces on the steering column. The other problem 2) is that the part you are getting may have (or soon have) a similar issue. That being said at $20 each it is much cheaper.

    [non-permissible content removed]

    One more thing...

    REMOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL FOR THIS REPAIR!!!

    When working around the steering wheel there is always the chance that you might trigger the airbag.
  • bob_55bob_55 Member Posts: 3
    I have the same sound of the signal without the signal light issue (The sound is the relay behind the glove box). Mine started with the timed wipers not working correctly; then went to the signal sound; and finally the heater fan quit. My guess is it is the signal switch causing my first two problems and the heater issue is a fuse that blew because of the original signal switch problem.

    I will post when I find the solution.
  • mstarkeymstarkey Member Posts: 1
    Hi I have a 1998 Blazer that my brother and I just replaced the heater core in(what a pain!) after we were all done I am having some issues with the dome light and radio shut off. The dome light wont come on at all, not even with the wheel switch, unless i open one of the back two doors(4 door). Also the radio wont shut off unless I open one of the back doors. I checked the 2 front door switches and they are both plugged back in, as we had to disassemble the whole dash to do the heater core. It worked fine before the heater core project, so i assume the switches didn't just go bad, or is that a possibility? I did break one of the small courtesy bulbs on the passenger side floorboard area so i thought a fuse may have been blown, but that doesn't seem to be the case, and yes i replaced the bulb.
  • bitterbitter Member Posts: 22
    I believe that you should go back and inspect the wire for the front door switches again. All of your malfunctions are predicated on the door opening. Make sure that all connections are securely affixed and tight. Have to start somewhere.

    Bitter
  • bitterbitter Member Posts: 22
    Anyone no anything about an Electrical problem with an 03 Trail Blazer resulting in the key being stuck in the ignition? The vehicle starts right up and shuts off but the key wont turn completely back to the remove position. The gear selector button will not depress and the blower motor will not come on. The blinkers will not function and the service 4wheel drive light is on in the dash. This all happened at once. Any answers or suggestions? I have changed the ignition switch (small black box in steering column) and the key lock cylinder. Twice! Can anyone point me in the right direction? There also is an issue with reduce engine power activating continuously. It used to only do it in cold weather. Now it doesn't matter what temp. I hate to say that my used Toyota and Honda has been of better service to me than my new Chevy's. This is what makes me "bitter." First my Blazer and now my Trail Blazer.
  • npo4lifenpo4life Member Posts: 1
    I have a ticking sound in motor 4.3 think its a lifter or some thing else low oil presser and a slight mise in the moter as well or a rocker to I think?? cant figer out the back wiper dose not work may be the motor is bad in it as well and dose not engage into 4 wheel drive all so?
  • kulpinatorkulpinator Member Posts: 1
    i am having a starting problem with my 1995 blazer ls it starts every once and a while but it seems like the battery is disconected but everything is tight with the battery
  • BsmliveBsmlive Member Posts: 1
    My gmc jimmys clock light won't turn off even when the fuse is out
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    What else is on the clock light circuit that you know about?
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