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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems
I've got a blazer with over 100k miles on it. In the past couple of days, I drive down the road and it sounds like the right turn signal is constantly on. Is this the precursor to a serious electrical problem? Any advice appreciated. Thanks -
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tidester, host
thanks,
joel
I have 97 Blazer with the same problem that I just fixed today for basically free. The Chevy dealer wanted $65 for a new release actuator and $125. for a new interior panel because you most likely will have to break your existing panel to open the glass. How stupid.
Anyways, what I did was attempt to pull the interior panel away from the tail gate at the top near the tail gate release handle. Mine did break but I was then able to manually release the glass and then open the tail gate.
With the tail gate down you can then remove the panel by unscrewing the two measly phillips screws on the left and right side of the panel and then pop the panel off. Keep the plastic pieces of the panel because I was able to glue them back and it looks like it will hold pretty well.
Now that the panel is off, use a 7mm (I HATE metric) socket and remove the bolts surrounding the metal removalbe panel on the tail gate. Before lifting the panel up you'll notice two white plastic tab/rod clamps on the left and right side of this metal panel. You'll need to pop the rods out of these tabs in order to lift the panel up.
Once done with that lift the panel up and take a peek underneath. There you'll see a black box held on by two phillips screws. This is the lock actuator. Sticking out of the side of this box is a rubber booted rod an inch or so long. When you push the release button on the tail gate (go ahead and do it) you'll see how the magic is supposed to happen. The booted rod is attached to a blue PLASTIC piece and the blue plastic piece is attached to the release arm. Well, my blue plastic piece was snapped off just short of where it is attached to the release arm. You'll prolly find the broken piece floating around in there somewhere.
Here's how I fixed it. I found a roll of water-pipe plumbing strapping, you know, it's the stuff that looks like it's made of copper and has many holes in it for nailing to lumber. I cut a piece of it about 2 inches long and laid it on the blue plastic piece that was still attached to the rubber booted rod. Using a marker i marked where a hole of the strap fell and drilled a small hole through the plastic and attached the strap to the plastic with small stove bolts and flat washers.
Next, using the same type small stove bolts, flat washers and nuts I attached the other end of the short strap to the release arm. Since you can't tighten the nuts that much I used lock-tight to keep the nuts from ever backing off.
Also, I used a dremel-tool to smooth out the ridge on the blue plastic picece on both sides to give more flat surface area for the pipe strapping to bolt on and I also used a dremmel cut-off wheel to cut excess bolt away after the nuts are on and tight. Else it might interfere with something else.
Before bolting the panel back on I tested it out and it looked like it was doing it's magic so I put it all back together and hot diggity I did it!!
Instead of throwing away the old interior plastic panel I glued the broken off piece back on and secured with duct tape while it dried for 24 hours and it seems to be holding.
So, that's how I did it and saved over $200.00. Hope this helps others defeat GM and their ridiculous factory way of fixing a broken piece of plastic!!
tidester, host
s
HOPE THIS HELPS
As for the security light - when you turn the key to run (not start) it should go out within 5 sec - if not then you may have a passlock problem. Assumes the battery is charged so enough voltage and amperage to turn the starter - but don't do that till the water problem is found or you will certainly trash the motor and bearing.
s
I used a Dremel tool to create a new hole in the remaining piece of plastic and went and got a nylon screw and nut and created my own mechanism to open the window. Worked great, but now the window latch catches some of the time when closing, but most of the time it does not. I sprayed some WD40 on the latch portion and it seemed to work pretty well, but still had trouble catching to keep the window closed. I then started my vehicle and then the mechanism popped itself and the battery went ka-put!!!
Not exactly sure what I may have done wrong...I was so proud of my handiwork! It got too late and so I figured I would see if it starts in the morning. There is a clicking noise when I start the car so I may have drained the battery? Or maybe for some reason the hatch is not thinking it is closed and something is messing up the electrical system. Not to offend anyone, but I hate vehicular problems! I guess tomorrow I will try and jump the vehicle and see if the hatch pops itself again, I may have to take it into the dealer since something may be draining the battery (not sure what) unless someone can provide some suggestions.
Thanks for all your help and responses, I wouldn't have gotten as far as I did without your posts, they were a huge help...stay tuned!!!!
I tried this and did find the hole. With a flash light I was able to see the "workings" of the latch and manually operate the electic lock actuator. You'll get the same results when you push the button on the outside of the tail gate or the appropriate button on the key fob........ lot's of noise but no worky.
Some say you can use a bent rod of some kind and "fish" for the broken part of the latch. I'm no fisherman. Couldn't make it work. Some say you can pull the plastic panel back from the tail gate at the top to gain just enough access to manually open it. Well, it happened to be 103 degrees OUTSIDE that day and was about 130 inside the Blazer when I lost what was left of my temper and pulled a bit to much and made plastic go crack!! My compliments to those who had the patience to take it easy.
Hope this extra bit of info helps someone else "Stick it to the Man!!"
After having my 2000 Jimmy's rear window button jam in the pushed-in position this morning (I work in a secure building where the guards have to search our cars each day and the guard must have used a little too much umph in pushing in the button), I crawled inside and worked the inside latch on the door a few times. I also used the heel of my hand to pound all around the button on the outside. None of this worked, so I called my local dealership. They confirmed that this is a common problem, and suggested that I pound around the outside to jiggle everything back into place (I love them, and their practical advice!). When I went back to my Jimmy this afternoon to see if I could try one of the solutions posted on this website, or the pounding-jiggling trick, I was delighted to find that the button had popped out on its own.
So, I am passing this along to those who, like me, might have rushed off to the dealership or to a toolbox to fix this ... try pounding around the area from the outside and then let it sit for a little while. Of course, none of this fixed the problem that I've had for most of the six years I've owned the Jimmy: the remote key fob doesn't unlock the rear door/window.
s
http://www.analogstereo.com/chevrolet_blazer_owners_manual.htm
Thanks! :mad:
This assumes the controls move so make sure the vac line 5/32" under the hood on the drivers side, intake to reservior, is not rotted out and it Ts off to a plastic line to the controls. Good luck and its 90 here!!
My 2000 Blazer started making an electrical whinning noise which corresponded to the rpm. Soon after the noise started, my original alternator died. I replaced it with a NAPA reman, and it worked fine for 3 days. On the forth day, it too died. I brought it back and got another one. After installing the second reman, the electrical winning sound returned and the voltage is fluctuating from 12.8~14.0 depending on the rpm. I have also recently replaced my battery with an Optima yellow top. Am I looking at some sort of short. Help!!