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2007 Honda CR-V
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Comments
New tires still going strong! No nails in em, of course Don't you love warranties!
It's actually slightly easier than an oil change because there's no filter to deal with.
You may need an oil pump to get the oil to flow *up* into the diff, but that's about the only challenge.
Here is a step-by-step pictorial for the job on a Miata. Diffs are fairly similar so I bet it's pretty much the same:
http://www.miata.net/garage/trans/13.htm
Do you also need to add limited slip type additive?
Since the rear diff is a trouble spot for CR-Vs, I'd be inclined to follow the recommendation...
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That should not make the process any more difficult, at least. Just get the right fluids.
Your sticker should reflect that in the large black letters. The smaller "scale" is for the extremes of all small SUV type vehicles, is my understanding.
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/mpg/MPG.do?action=browseList2&make=Honda&model=CR-V%2- 02WD
The price on the Triple-Treds was $199 each plus balancing, etc for a total of $847.
I got them at a chain called Tire Factory, but Goodyears are everywhere and if you call around you may find promotions.
They asked us 3 times before we even brought the car in if we had been in an accident or had any rocks hit our car and we told her no. I suppose there is a chance that a rock flew in between the grill w/o hitting anything and punctured the a/c.
Personally I installed a Cloud-Rider bumper screen in the opening to protect the condenser.
But check out the Honda CR-V AC Compressor Issues discussion as well.
Had that happen to the 2002 Civic Si. Was on the highway going behind someone through construction zone. He must have kicked up something, because A/C died fast, and soon the temperature gauge went up. A 10 inch construction screw went through both. Had to leave the car in the parking lot while gathering parts. Replaced parts myself for next to nothing (Rad was $200 from the online dealer, condenser was about the same).
Had the dealer evacuate and charge the A/C system.
If your radiator is punctured, make sure you refill it with Honda Type 2 coolant, it is BLUE.
The radiator is not punctured. I haven't looked at it yet but I was told you can see the condenser right thru the radiator. There is some lawsuit against Honda in regards to design defect in regards to the A/C. I contacted the firm. I plan on changing the condenser myself since the dealer wants close to $1000.00.
The radiator is not punctured. I haven't looked at it yet but I was told you can see the condenser right thru the radiator. There is some lawsuit against Honda in regards to design defect in regards to the A/C. I contacted the firm. I plan on changing the condenser myself since the dealer wants close to $1000.00.
There is no law suit. A greedy lawer wants to make money.
Last law suit against honda netted the law firm $10,000,000 in fees, and customers got 600 mile adjustment to their warranty coverage.
The proposed law suit is for compressors failing on 2% of Japan built CR-V's made between 2002-2004. Your vehicle does not fall under that because it is newer, and you have physical damage to the condenser.
Don't feed the lawyer pigs!
Its wheelbase is short, which makes for easy in-town handling but the ride can get choppy on poor roads at freeway speeds. I find the 4-cyl engine fine for my driving style, but no one will confuse this with a powerful car.
It's comfortable, hauls stuff that didn't fit in my previous car, consistently delivers 23-24 mpg city and 27-28 mpg hwy mileage, but I'm not a lead foot. I should note that mileage sags noticeably above 70 mph. In short, I'd buy the car again. It's been Honda reliable.
Oh, I forgot, the carpets are junk. I mean it. They do not wear well. But that's the worst thing I can say about the CR-V. Good luck.
I took it in to make sure it's not leaking fluid from transmission and it's not. My appt is monday. Curious as to what they might have done in error to cause it to do that. help.... thanks in advance
First off, at 10,000 miles, the rear differential started giving me the grinding and vibrating noises. There's a known service bulletin about it. This problem is starting to become famous. I even read about it in the newspaper. I read on the web that the first 35,000 built off the line that year had inferior fluid in the differential that the viscosity broke down around 10,000 miles--OOOPS!! The dealer changed the fluid under warranty and I haven't had the problem again.
The second problem--again fluid related. Around 18,000 miles, the power steering wouldn't work on the first turn or two when I started it cold overnight. The dealer said the power steering fluid broke down and wore out. They drained the system and refilled it. The steering is perfectly fine now.
Every mechanic I talked to said these fluids should be lasting a lot longer than they are. Hey Honda--listen up--you're using some cheap fluids that break down before normal recommended maintenance. This isn't the famed Honda quality reputation!!
The third problem isn't mechanical related but Honda originally equips the CR-V's with tires that have a tendancy to wear out around 25,000 miles. My sister's CR-V's Bridgestone Duelers were shot at 23,000. She replaced hers with Michelins. A lady I work with has a 2006 that had Bridgestones and her tires were balder than Telly Savalas at 20,000. She replaced hers with Goodyears. At 21,000 miles, my Continentals are looking like Yul Brynner. I'll be replacing them by this summer. Since they're 17-inch tires, they cost between $150 and $200 each. The way these tires are worn out, it's just bad advertisement for Continental and Bridgestone tires. I won't buy them.
I have the 4WD and get around 20-25 city and 30 highway. When it snows heavily and cars are spinning off the road, I'm slowly plugging away straight ahead. You can't beat it.
If you're looking at a 2007 CR-V with 40,000 miles, if it has all the fluids changed and the tires replaced, you'll have a very good car on your hands that should last until 100,000 miles when the timing belt needs replaced--unless that wears out sooner than expected, too--LOL!!
The only other problem we had was after a year and a half of buying it brand new, the A/C went out and the dealer we purchased the car from told us a rock had hit the A/C condenser and it leaked out and it would cost us $980 to replace. I did some research and found this is a common problem with Honda's in general. We raised a stink but the dealer wouldn't budge so we took the car to another Honda Dealer. They were able to talk to a Honda warranty rep in town and he gave them the part free and we split the installation cost of it with the dealer. So we had to pay less than $100. Need less to say we now go to this dealer :-)
Other that that we have been happy with our car and won't be getting rid of it for a long time.
Starting with Gen 2 CR-V, there is no timing belt. Timing chain is considered a lifetime item. Some will argue that it needs regular replacement, but there is no published data.
Fluids, regardless of the design will need to be replaced. I don't see too many people complaining baout having to change engine oil on the regular basis.
I am in Buffalo, so I know my AWD unit gets a good work out. I just replace the Differentail fluid every summer, along with manual transmission fluid.
Brake and Power Steering fluids should replaced every 3 years, and coolant every 5.
Just like underwear should be replaced daily. I don't see too many people complaining about the "inferior" design here. :shades:
Towing Your Vehicle Behind A Motorhome
Your vehicle can be towed behind a motor home at legal highway speeds up to 65 mph (100 km/h). Do not exceed 65 mph (100 km/h) otherwise , severe transmission damage will occur. To avoid damage to the 4WD system, Your vehicle must be towed with all four wheels on the ground (Flat towing).
When Purchasing a tow bar, Make sure you select a reputable manufacturer and installer. Follow the Manufacturer's attachment instruction carefully.
Perform the following procedure every day immediately before you begin towing. Otherwise severe automatic transmission damage will occur.
1) Check the Transmission Fluid 2) Start the Engine 3) Press on the brake pedal. Move the shift lever through all its position. 4) Shift to D, then N. Let the engine run for 3 minutes, then turn off. 5) Release the parking brake 6) Leave the ignition switch in the ACCESSORY (I) position so the steering wheel does not lock. Make sure the radio and any items plugged into the accessory power sockets are turned off so you do not run down the battery.
When you stop towing your vehicle and shift out of the Neutral position, you may not be able to move the shift lever form neutral to reverse or Park. If this happens, press the brake pedal and turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position, then shift out of Neutral.
Extended Towing: If you tow more than 8 hr in one day, you MUST repeat the above procedures at LEAST EVERY 8 HRS.
When towing your vehicle for long period, remove the 7.5 A accessory Radio fuse to reduce drain on the battery. This fuse is located in the interior fuse box and is shown as # 34.
Only remove the fuse after you have performed the transmission shifting procedure, and the key is in the ACCESSORY (I) position. Remember to reinstall the fuse before driving the vehicle.
If you tow a CR-V behind a mortorhome, the transmission fluid must be changed every 2 Yrs or 30,000 miles which every come first.
Th combination of seat materials, clothes, shoes and dryer weather generate more static.
I notice that if I wear sneakers I get shocked more than if I wore leather shoes (leather soles). Also, depends on what sweater I wear. Wool sweater generates the most static, while cotton thermal does not generate much at all.
I need help with the following questions.
(# Tire Size: 225/65R17 102T )
1. Can some one recommend a good brand ?
2. If I go to Costco and ask them to install tires, what happens to old tires sensors? Do I need to get new sensors for these tires so that TPMS works well with the new tires or do they take from old tires and put them on the new ones?
3. Or is it a good idea to get the new tires at the dealer?
one is tthe windows , they are so thin that if they are down at a certain level vibrate so bad that it feels like you eardrums are going to burst,,,,,, this happens on my friends toyota also so guess they are probably all getting them from China.....second is that if you have the plain model as I do, that the windshield wipers never really stay defrosted because the defroster doesn't go down far enough into the pocket where the windshield wipers are stored.... not so good here in upstate N.Y, and AHHHHHHH the wonderful piece of c#$p tires......It is not easy to find tires to fit the CRV,especially to be able to afford them..don't go to the dealer!!! Don't get the wipers at the dealer either,BIG BUCKS!!!! I would recommend that anyone who buys a new CRV have the tires changed before you leave the lot,,, they have no tread,so they were faster and are very bad even in a small rain storm.. I do feel safe in the car ,,that is why I am looking for a new one,It feels like I am in a little tank and it's built solid, I think the 2010 haven't changed at all... I just hope that they haven't done what the states have done here and gone cheap and put quality on the back shelf,,,the only thing I did have a problem with is that before 50,000 miles my back rotors,pads and calipers were shot..... not sure if this is normal.... I mean I drive all highway so I thought that they should have lasted longer than that,,,They are a rough riding vehichle that is for sure,but they are a truck not a car,,,but the seats really do suck..I drive 500+ miles in a week and let me tell you if I could put some good old chevy seats in it It would be the perfect car.. I really hope that Honda reads these messages.... I am going for our 3rd Honda and don't want to be dissappointed.... BUT FIX THE TIRES!!! They are going to end up causing someine an accident they are not safe... even on dry road you can feel them slip.....
The OEM tires are not going to be top quality tires. They are a wear and tear item, and if you get 30,000 miles out of them, consider your self lucky. Check out http://www.tirerack.com and http://www.discounttires.com for tire alternatives.
Brakes, especially in upstate NY need to be serviced at the end of winter driving season. the caliper sliding pins have to be cleaned and lubricated. Brakes should be serviced at leat once a year, regardless of make and model. It is just a safe thing to do.
Good luck.