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Ford Ranger Transmission Questions

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Comments

  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Member Posts: 175
    71-97 INCH LBS of torque on main control and reverse servo cover
  • nak_machinistnak_machinist Member Posts: 7
    next question would be since this is an internal slave cylinder. is there any way to get it out without dropping tranny? if not is there an inspection panel on tranny to bleed system after replacment or do you have do a bench bleed? any tips or known problems with dropping tranny and replacing slave cylinder would be appreciated as this will be my first dealings with an internal slave cylinder as well as a ford.
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Member Posts: 175
    no way to change without removing transmission and the bleed port is on the drivers side right next to where the hose from the master cylinder connects. push the 2 little white clips INWARD to remove master to slave hose at slave... hint.. after trans removal and replacement its best to elevate the front of the truck to bleed the clutch system. ford rangers ahve always been a pain in [non-permissible content removed] bleeding due to master cylinder attachment angle
  • nak_machinistnak_machinist Member Posts: 7
    appreciate the advice i am going to put it to use friday. probably just going to change clutch and resurface flywheel while in there in hopes to not have to be in there again for a good little while, since there is nothing about the little truck that has been cheap to repair so far
  • nak_machinistnak_machinist Member Posts: 7
    figured i would bleed the system before i do anything else. while i was bleeding system started with a gravity bleed and fluid just barely trickled out, then i went a standard bleed. while i was doing this on second bleed a bunch of white stuff looking like lithium gease came out of the bleeder plug. any idea what this is could it possibly be moisture in the hydraulics? truck was recently wrecked and sit at body shop with hood off for several weeks. after six or a good times of standard bleeding i went to the gravity bleed again, except this time i had a steady stream of fluid coming out. it will go in all gears now but clutch is fully engaging right at the very top. any ideas or suggestions on this?
  • jeff104jeff104 Member Posts: 1
    I have the original Mazda 5 speed transmission in this truck (2.3L). I seem to have plenty of clutch pedal, with no slipping.

    Issue #1: It is very difficult to get this truck in gear at times, when sitting still. As long as I am on the move it is fine. I replaced the bushings at the bottom of the shift lever and it did not help.

    Issue #2: Today as I eased off in 1st the truck stalled. I cranked and tried again and it stalled a second time. On the third try I realized that the clutch pedal was stuck near the floor (but I think the transmission and engine were engaged). I pulled it up and pressed it down several times and it eventually loosened and worked fine after that. I have plenty of fluid int he clutch reservoir. Any ideas on either of these?
  • 2young2young Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1999 Ranger that the speed sensor just stoped work for me on thursday night. Monday I paid $21.49 for the sensor fixed my problem. All I needed was a 3/8 socked to loosen the bolt to R & R.
  • nak_machinistnak_machinist Member Posts: 7
    probably dont wanna hear it but sounds like it is time for a new clutch master and slave cylinder. may try bleeding it first but usually only a short term remedy. if your 92 is like my 03 then the slave cylinder replacment requires a tranny drop so you might want to think about new clutch while ya got the tranny out. hope tha info helps. good luck
  • jre56jre56 Member Posts: 7
    My 2004 Ranger wheel hops when I hit broken up street if I'm going 40 or more Mph.It's hops so bad that I almost lost control.Do I need Shocks or are my springs too stiff? What can I do? Thanks!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    What's the air pressure in your rear tires?
  • jre56jre56 Member Posts: 7
    I can't remember off-hand what the pressure is but it's the recommended psi that's listed on the doorwell.
  • earle48earle48 Member Posts: 1
    while backing out of my drive way this afternoon, i heard a bang and the transmission quit backing up. the trans works fine in drive. drove around the block. the trans shifts and acts normal in drive, lo and neutral. anyone got any ideas on the problem and how to fix it??? the ranger is a 3.0 flex fuel with 111,000 miles-great truck!! any help deeply appreciated--thanks!!
  • endevoreendevore Member Posts: 1
    I have an '03 Ranger with only 49,000 miles. I got a notice from my dealer telling me the transmission is due for service. I called the dealer and the service writer said it needs to be flushed and filled. I was talking to a friend who works at a transmission repair shop and he says the flush is just a waste of money, that new filter and fluid should take care of any issues. I can't find anything in my owners manual that says it should be flushed, does anyone have a good answer?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Flushes, in my opinion, are a waste of money, and on high-milage trannys might even cause problems if 'sludge' is broken loose and lodges somewhere else in the tranny.

    If you look at your owner's manual, you will probably see a maintenance schedule for the transmission at 100,000 miles. You are far from this milage. If you wish to be extremely conservative on this, you could go ahead and have the transmission pan dropped and the filter replaced (this is all that is probably called for at the 100,000 mile service, not a 'flush') and the 3 or 4 quarts of fluid replaced that is lost when this is done. The cost for a filter and gasket would be about $35 or less, and labor should not be over one hour. $135 at most. I bet the 'flush' would be about $225 dollars or more.

    Or, if you have better things to do with your money, do nothing. As I said, you are far from the 100,000 miles that I bet is the schedule for tranny service. UNLESS YOU TOW with this truck. Then, I would change the filter/fluid now.
  • sets1sets1 Member Posts: 1
    what is the average lifetime mileage on 2003 ford ranger auto trans and is the maintenance for fluid and filter change at 100,000
  • jre56jre56 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2004 Ranger 4x4 and my manual says change trans fluid every 30,000 miles.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I don't know anything about 4x4.

    I would think the tranny service on a regular drive would be 100,000 miles.
  • jre56jre56 Member Posts: 7
    Ok I did a search on the Ford site and I was wrong.It's 150,000 miles before it needs changing.
  • cfowleroncfowleron Member Posts: 14
    1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 4.0ltr V6, won't go into gear. This issue seems to be predominent from a stopped position. IE when I first attempt to place the truck into gear or at a traffic light (stopped). On the highway it seems to shift fine. When I am stopped and it won't go into gear, if I move the shifter into the pattern (ie first gear) it won't go all the way in but I can feel the truck want to engage (small jolt) as if it's in gear and the clutch were engaged at the friction point.
  • jclark5jclark5 Member Posts: 5
    i have a 2000 mazda b3000 with the automatic overdrive transmission. it recently started shifting into second gear really hard, and the overdrive off light on the dash starts flashing. any idea what would cause this
  • cfowleroncfowleron Member Posts: 14
    Well, from the reading I've done through various forums, this forum seems to be reluctant to post, I gather it's a clutching issue. I've checked the hydraulic fluids and the levels are good, the master cylinder is good but the slave cylinder I'm not so sure about. The general concensus in this situation is the clutch but there have been a number of posts that suggest the slave cylinder as the culprit. However, they also suggest that bleeding / replacing the slave cylinder may only resolve the issue temporarily (by bleeding the slave cylinder they mean the entire system). Another post suggested that if you pull up on the clutch pedal it may help (I guess this is in reference to adjusting) this does nothing by the way (at least in my case - it's self-adjusting after all and there's no where for the clutch to go "up" - when it's out it's out).

    The resolution I have come up with is to allow a few minutes for the system to warm up and I find that if I keep the RPMs up the shifting goes a lot smoother. Also, I've noticed that when it is difficult to get into gear, turning on the heating / cooling system will then allow me to go into gear so I'm guessing this is a load issue which is what makes me suspect the slave cylinder.

    What I'm doing now, because I believe I may also have noticed slipping is to drive it until it gets stuck IN gear or flat out slips blatantly at which point I will exchange the clutch.

    Wish I could be of more help but there are some other issues with the Ranger that I'm still working on - most recently a lit parking brake light on the dash that stays on intermittently (fluids are fine, could be emergency brake switch) and the check engine light that comes on every so often then disappears but the truck still drives normal, no stalling, squealing, pinging, knocking - could be a gas cap issue but like I say, still working on it - the code is proprietary to ford (tried to have it read at two separate shops) so I'm reluctant to dish out $150.00 to have it read when the truck's running fine.

    If you do find a solution I'd be ecstatic if you'd let me know. :)

    Cheers!

    C
  • nak_machinistnak_machinist Member Posts: 7
    sounds like there is a pretty good chance slave cylinder is going on ya. i have an 2003 ranger 4x4 with the 4.0. mine acted a fool for about three months and finally left me stranded at work at 2 am none the less. i did the hole bleeding thing and it helped for awhile but ultimately in the end was a waste of time. slave cylinder is internal so you might as well change clutch. just changed mine about two months ago slave and clutch assembly ran bout 300.00 dollars and bout two days work. good luck. oh and when you bleed it pull up on a hill. will help getting air out of system tremendously
  • leeschmdtleeschmdt Member Posts: 1
    just wondering if any one had an idea about this issue. i am having the same problem with the O/D not turning off. what was the fix to this problem. my vehicle is a 2000 3.0L automatic ford ranger
  • cfowleroncfowleron Member Posts: 14
    That's what I was afraid of. LOL Thanks for the advice I appreciate it. I was hoping against that.
  • mgundemgunde Member Posts: 2
    When I start my truck in the morning or after work, there is a clunking thud sound that comes from the tranny area, it only happens when the truck is cold, its there only for the initial start up and goes away, its like something is being released any ideas on what this is?
  • mgundemgunde Member Posts: 2
    Even with the fan off, there's always cold air coming out of the vents, whats up with this?
  • maria16maria16 Member Posts: 2
    Help! My 2000 ranger currently will not shift gears and the check engine and abs lights are on, and the o/d light flashes. Also, the speedometer doesnt work. Does anyone know why this is happening and what needs to be done to fix it? Ty!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I think this is a 'standard' problem for Rangers, but I'm not sure of the problem. It may be the ABS sensor that is in the rear differential has failed, and it causes all these problems. If this is it, it's not a terrible expensive repair. Remove the electrical connection, one bolt, pull out the old sensor, put a new one it.
  • marco32110marco32110 Member Posts: 1
    hello, i was wondering if you were able to figure out the problem with your truck? My ranger actually did the same thing to me today on the way to work! If you have already fixed it could you tell me what the problem was and to fix it? thanks!!
  • maria16maria16 Member Posts: 2
    yes I did get it fixed, it was the abs speed sensor and the part is only about $30. However with labor, I paid a little over $100. Hope this helps!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Ah, so I got one right....
  • tgbremtgbrem Member Posts: 1
    we change a trannsmission in a 1992 ford ranger 3.0L 2wheel drive now truck wont start
  • dysnai34dysnai34 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Ford Ranger and the engine is shot - was wondering if it was a good idea to put in a used engine with 41,000 on it for $1600 plus labor
  • jre56jre56 Member Posts: 7
    There's a few factors you have to weigh.What condition is the used motor? What condition is the transmission in,is the body in good shape.Who's installing the motor(are they competent?).What kind of warranty are they offering?1600 + labor seems a little high for a motor + labor install.I had a motor installed in a 1995 Tracker and it costed me 1200, labor included with a 90 day warranty and it had 42,000 miles on the motor.Anytime you change a motor or a trans. you never know what you're getting until you drive it for a while.So good luck !
  • locdoc88locdoc88 Member Posts: 1
    Is there a Ranger 5 speed that will bolt up to a '49 Ford F1 239 Flathead?
  • speedispeedi Member Posts: 1
    i also have a 91 v-6 3.0. my automatic trans does some weird stuff. at 65mph and 2000rpm it will be fine then for no reason it will down shift and push 2700 rpm then some times from 65 mph it will not even kick into passing gear but at lower speeds it will kick into passing gear with no problem. it constantly shifts up and down even when not neccesary. my fuel millage went south it does not feel as if the trans is slipping, it just is not staying in the upper gears. I live in florida and the interstate is near by i checked and to mantain 75mph the motor is at 3000 rpm and it wont go into passing gear. It goes into passing gear but does not engage. it acts like i put it in nuetral and if i let up off the gas it goes back to 2200rpm for a mile or two then right to 3000 rpm and stays there .any ideas what could cause this i checked vacum and eletrical connections every looks good. Is there a cellanoid inside the transmission that controls the shifting? any help would be great thanks
  • jrp5143jrp5143 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 1992 Ford Ranger 6 cylinder 4 speed + overdrive. It sometimes will go into reverse just fine and at others it shifts into reverse but when you let up on the clutch nothing happens the truck remains in neutral and a very loud grinding occurs. You can feel this grinding in the shifter knob. It now occasionally does this between gears however the sound goes away when accelerating or stopped, it only seems to happen when decelerating or reverse. Also, it sometimes won't "catch" gears when I shift and will instead cruise in neutral with this odd grinding noise. I drained the tranny oil and replaced. No luck. It tends to be fine when it is cold, however gets increasingly difficult when the truck has been driven for a bit. I've talked around trying to gain advice, some people say the tranny's gone others tell me its a bearing on my clutch. I have never had a truck that grinds and whines at me so I'm not sure what to think and would like some other people's opinions before dropping my tranny. thanks.
  • gab3gab3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Ranger that I thought had a tire shake, I replaced all 4 rims and put new tires on, still have shake took tires back and had rebalanced twice. Still shakes, univerals are tight. This shake is driving me crazy I can't even play a cd with out it skipping, shake starts around 50 mph and if I make it to 60 mph it shakes real bad almost as if all 4 tires are loose. also I have 4 new shocks installed as well so it's not that.
    If anyone could help I would greatly appriciate it.
    thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Drive shaft/universal joint problems?

    Is this an extended cab, which may have a 'split' drive shaft? Essentially two drive shafts with a bearing in the middle. The bearing may be bad.
  • nak_machinistnak_machinist Member Posts: 7
    i have an 03 ranger that was doing similar. turned out to be a bad drivers side front wheel bearing. the easiest way to tell is jack up front of truck and see if either front tire has any play when off the ground. if so it is a bad wheel bearing. on the two wheel drive models the inner and outer wheel bearings are approx, $3.00 dollars a piece and farely easy to change. bout 30 minutes a piece. on the 4x4 of mine it was a hub assembly and it went from $3.00 dollars to $285 dollars just for the part still only took bout 30 minutes to replace. hope this helps
  • Hiker67Hiker67 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2001 Ranger, 5-speed manual; 2.3 L engine. On the shaft coming out of the transmission, in front of the u-joint, there is a large cylinder 8 in. or so in diameter. It completely separated from the shaft it was on and was rattling around on the shaft. It looks like it was just held in place by a rubber bushing that has deteriorated. Can anyone tell me what this piece is called, and what to do about my problem? I would like to know what I'm asking for when I go to the parts store.
  • Hiker67Hiker67 Member Posts: 10
    Since posting this, I've done some research, and the piece, that is supposed to be 1 piece and not 2, is called a Universal Joint Yoke. Now, all I need to do is find one, and that doesn't seem to be an easy task. I'll try the local parts store, but any suggestions will be considered and appreciated.
  • needhelp21needhelp21 Member Posts: 2
    tansmission has been ok, shifts hard when first put in drive. driving home last night, i had it floored and just lost the transmission completely. waited 1/2 hour drove for approx 5 miles, done the same thing loss of transmission power, felt like it was in neutral. parked it, went and picked it up this morning, drove home 4 miles or so no problem. please help, single female with no clue what to do, and don't want to break down on highway again at 3 am. thanks
  • Hiker67Hiker67 Member Posts: 10
    If I were you, I wouldn't mess around getting stranded. I'd get it to a reliable tranmission shop. It may not necessarily mean a new transmission, but you need reliable transportation.
  • needhelp21needhelp21 Member Posts: 2
    would you happen to know what could be wrong, i have someone willing to work on it but not sure where to start. thanks again
  • blzblz Member Posts: 3
    Did any lights come on? Check engine,abs, any thing like that?
  • blzblz Member Posts: 3
    About 2 months ago I started noticing a noise/vibration coming from under truck. IT would speed up with engine rpm and go away at about 10-15 mph. About a month ago i notice it was leaking transmission fluid. It has now got to the point that lose about 2 quarts for every 50 miles. I thought it might be a cracked flex plate. Pulled the motor today. flex plate is not cracked, but at two of the torque converter bolt holes you can see the flex plate is ground down and shiny. is it possible that the torque converter is shot? anyone know how to test a torque converter?
    99 Ranger 3.0 flex fuel 4 speed overdrive trans.
  • jclark5jclark5 Member Posts: 5
    No lights came on at all accept for the o/d off light that flashes. someone on here told me it might be a melted servo in the transmission because ford put the exhaust too close to the transmission. they said that thats what the shop told them was causing their truck to have the same problem.
  • jconnjconn Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Ranger with a manual (with overdrive) transmission. I recently put in a new clutch, but apparently, when I started work I left the vehicle in reverse and removed the shifter. The clutch works. I can start the truck, but can't get it out of reverse. I've removed the shift lever and played around with the tabs down inside the hole where the shift lever inserts, but I can't seem to get any of the tabs to move in a way that I can reinstall the shifter and get it into neutral. Anyone else have this problem? Solutions?

    Thanks.
  • EMT907EMT907 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1996 Ranger with about 178k miles on it. I don't drive on the interstate much and just recently noticed a whine in 5th gear on a recent trip into Tampa (about 1 hr drive). I drove into Tampa with no problems, but on the way back, I started noticing this whine while driving about 65 MPH. It stops when I take my foot off the gas or drop to 4th gear.

    I noticed tonight that it was starting to whine in the lower gears as well. The fluid levels seem to be fine. Any ideas?
    :confuse:
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