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Comments
there is an intermittent miss that does not create a problem, but, if while in gear the AC compressor cycles on at the same time the miss hits, then the engine will frequently stall.
It will start right back up with no problem, runs and drives great until you stop at a light or intersection.
Many new items installed, ie: plugs , wires, cap, rotor, dist. module, coil, injector assem., plenum fuel lines, fuel pump, egr cleaned, fuel relay and more.........
Idle control valve appears to be working properly.
Computer does not seem to have time to speed up the engine for the additional load of the AC or steering pump before it stalls and dies.
After the engine is warmed up, I can disconnect the idle control valve and it appears to run smoother.
Anyone had this issue?
thanks, Greg
Hope I was of help.
Thanks in advance, James M. of OKC, OK
Now if this only happens as the vehicle goes to idle it could be the idle air control (IAC) valve on the side of the throttle body and these can get worn or clogged and the air passage blocked - often intermittent and drives you crazy as never happens when in the shop - my 01 did this started every few weeks then more and that was it (at idle).
Then could be related to a sensor but a code should pop or SES light on and Advance and AutoZ read for free.
Then if close to 100k miles cap/rotor/wires/plug time.
Any help appreciated
bruno :confuse:
I do generally have to tap the gas to get the truck to start, and wasn't sure if this would be related or not.
I've had this happen once before. It went away after a day or so, so I wasn't able to trouble shoot much. The last time this happened, and this time, the drivers window will raise, but not lower. When you try to lower it, the E-Brake light kicks on in the dash, and the rest of the internal lights dim (have not checked headlights).
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I have had my 1990 5.7L Blazer for 17 years and I finally need to change the motor. I am considering trying to convert it to a diesel. Any pointers or show stoppers?
g :confuse:
PLEASE can anyone give some advice of where to look? Could there be a spacer or rubber bushing that is still in place, but worn out? I dont just want to start ripping stuff apart "hoping" it does the trick.
About a $50 part, takes about 20 minutes to install, will need a puller to separate the center link from the idler.
Hope I was of help.
Do you feel any pulling in the steering wheel when it clunks? Check the upper control arm mounts at the frame where the shims are installed for alignment.
Is there a lot of free play in the steering? Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth a couple of inches and compare the movement of the input shaft of the steering gearbox to the output shaft movement. Check for excessive play. The gearbox is adujstable, but I wouldn't do it unless you see noticeable play in the gearbox itself.
I'm just going with what you are driving over when the clunk occurs here and trying to come up with some things to look at.
On the full size trucks, there has been a problem with the intermediate shaft in the steering column. The S series has a different design, but they can get noisy. Try grabbing the the steering shaft in the area of the center spark plug and give it a good yank back and forth and see if you hear the noise. You mentioned that the noise seems to be from the floorboards, and this is usually felt in the steering wheel, but don't want to overlook anything.
Next, I would put the vehicle up on ramps, or with safe support under the front wheels and get underneath with a rubber mallet and start whacking. Sometimes a noise/looseness will disappear if the wheels are suspended, such as using jack stands on the frame.
Okay, and this is a stretch, check the frame to body mounts. If the rubber of the mount is loose, or the bolt has backed out just a bit, loud clunk occurs.
Does this vehicle have step bars? Notorious noise makers.
Sad part about these things is that in my case, after charging off over $1300 to warranty, the problem was what I told them in the first place, a $200 repair that I just didn't want to mess with.
I fell out!!!!!!!! Here the guy was surely aware that I only wanted top end parts on the car (I told him this 10 times) I told him I'd pay the difference, and he still went behind my back and installed the cheap [non-permissible content removed] crap parts just to make $30.00 off the parts. The first thing I did was report him to Napa auto care (the regional manager is going there today...5/14/08 to remove the Napa name. This guy was using the Napa name to draw customers in, then he puts the cheapest parts on the car he could find.....making people think hes using Napa parts!!!!!!! Holy cow right? :mad: :mad: :mad: And the regional manager is paying for the repairs on my vehicle out of his expense account for what happened(he doesnt weant me to go national with this probablly) BE CAREFUL OUT THERE!!! :surprise: