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Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy

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  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Well, I wish I could hear the noise and give you a hand. These little beasts are just not that complicated, so I cannot imagine why the mechanics cannot locate the noise.

    Don't let this issue sour you on the S series vehicles. I have had five and all have been very dependable vehicles. I have to believe that these guys are missing something obvious like a motor or tranny mount loose, spring pad missing, something like that. There just aren't that many things under there to go clunk.

    Jim
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    I looked at more forms, and some were saying the shock mount can wear out and cause looseness.....I'd think it would be an obvious thing we can see.....I can grab the driver side shock and twist it, which it makes a slight clunking(same noise)......is this something that can be replaced? Or will I have to have new mounts welded on? This is happening on both sides.....all the mechanics were all over the front shocks....no one thought the play was a concern.....should there be ANY play there? I wouldnt think so........
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    Well, let me remove the last post......the towers werent wallowed out, but they were kinda pushed apart, which just took a little grunting and I pulled it together. However what I didnt notice until then was the rocket science mechanic had put in the lower ball joint bolts upside-down, causing the bolt to dig into the boot that holds the greese- :surprise: he wins the ASE mechanic of the week award!!!!! Is it just North Carolina or does this happen elsewhere......now I've been scammed by the Napa auto care guy with the Autozone parts that were supposed to be Napa parts, and now the ASE mechanic of the week mishap> My poor car :sick:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Have you considered a GM service department???

    (ducking and running for cover :surprise: )
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    ROFL!!!!!!! :D ...Well, after this mess gets taken care of(the napa control arm bushings put back in), yes I agree a dealer is gona be the safest bet. Where I moved from my local mechanic had a jimmy also for a personal vehicle, so he was all up on these things. That is a 5hr drive one way or I'd be going to him. Looks like i have some dealer shopping to do, but I'll surely let ya know progress on the noise for you and other people reading this whole post ;)
  • darren04darren04 Member Posts: 3
    Hey everyone,

    Im stumped...1995 GMC Jimmy, The ECM fuse (fuse #10) keeps blowing in my truck, which causes the truck to stall out until fuse is replaced. I've looked for loose wires, shorts everything and I cant figure out why it keeps blowing! Anyone have any help? What should I check since its just the ECM fuse blowing?

    Thanks,

    Darren
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    Well, first when diagnosing a problem.....what does the ECM fuse directly supply power to? A fuse is a load limiting device like a breaker in your house electrical pannel. Fuses are only to limit loads.....so the device(devices) on that fuse are malfunctioning, causing a higher load on that circuit. I looked up what fuse #10 does....if it is correct, #10 does pcm module, and ignition module, also, all the fuel injectors. Knowing these vehicles, and yours is a '95 model......I'd first start with having a fuel pressure gauge put on the fuel line check valve located behind the plenum(i thnik its spelled like that). If you havent changed the spyder assembly yet from the lines dry-rotting from heat under the plenum, then this may be causing the fuel pump to overwork trying to keep fuel pressure up in the 52 psi range. When you hook the fuel pressure gauge up to the check valve, start the engine to get pressure(over 50psi)....then shut engine off leaving the gauge on the vehicle.....it should stay the same....NO DROP AT ALL!!!!!!! If it moves....there ya go. New spyder assembly for you and its really expensive so I hope for you its not. And if that check comes back O.K.....then change the fuel filter to make sure its not clogged(good to change anyway with all this junk gas).....if those two things dont help....let us know. ;)
  • darren04darren04 Member Posts: 3
    Hey thanks for the speedy reply, so heres the scoop. Fuel pump, filter and the CPI unit (the spyder thing) have been replaced. The truck was just in the shop and they said the fuel pressure was good. They sugested a loose wire or short somewhere but yet couldnt find anything. I drove the truck today and so far no blown fuse, but then again it did that yestureday, drove fine then bam fuse gone. Could it be something that simple as a lose wire or bad connection? And if so where would I start to find this and why is it only fuse 10?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    could be an intermittent problem in the ECM itself. The electrical system in the vehicle supplies power through the ECM fuse, but there are further electrical filtering circuits in the ECM itself that could be failing. Very tough to diagnose intermittent problems like these. Try to be observant to any other behavior of the vehicle when the failure occurs. A big part of troubleshooting is observation and logic.
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    The other guy couldn't have said it any better.....since you said you drove it all day and no fuse blown yet, try to make it blow......do everything possible, but like the other guy said PAY ATTENTION to what your doing so you know what blows the fuse. It is tough since fuse#10 supplies power to more than one specific location.
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    Good news :D noise is GONE!!!!!!! :) I picked my jimmy yesterday, and the work done at this Napa center was A-1!!!!!! He flipped the bolts around that the other mechanic put in backwards on my lower ball joints, fixed the alignment(steering wheel was cocked to 10 o'clock, and pulled to the right), and I now have the Napa upper control arm bushings in there. O.k. heres the weird thing.....when driving the car from the screwy mechanic to the good one....still the noise was there even though the new control arm bushings were in, so I'm wondering if it was from the lower ball joint bolts not being in the right way(maybe they wouldn't tighten all the way), or maybe it was from the cheap autozone crap parts?????Don't know......but all I care about is that annoying clunk is GONE!!!!!! :D
    On a different subject....through all the searching of problems....I saw that a MAJOR issue with these newer Jimmys that use dexcool is that the heater cores clog(I see that post ALOT) I'm wondering if its from everyone says DONT let dexcool get low or it will sludge up.....well, what happens to your heater core when temp switch is set to A/C or the cool setting.....it closes the valve to allow coolant to flow through the core, so in my eyes....thats the same as letting it get low, and I'm thinking thats why it sludges up in the core......from driving in summer months with the temp set to cold(coolant just trickles through the core clogging it up!!!!! IS THIS CORRECT??????????should I switch to green coolant to avoid this problem? or will it mess the gaskets up??? :confuse:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Guess what? Blazers don't have heater control valves. Coolant is always going through the core. I know, I was surprised to find out that they don't use a valve, too.

    The biggest problem with dexcool it that GM was being more than optimistic with the life span. If changed every 5 yrs, 60K miles, it doesn't seem to sludge up. But if you let it get low and get a lot of air in the system, problems.

    And never, ever let someone "top it off" with the green stuff. If this happens, the whole cooling system must be extensively flushed. The two chemistries just do not play together at all.
  • gmck9gmck9 Member Posts: 17
    Ya, I read that the chemicals that control corrosion when mixed(dexcool and the green coolant) will break each other down, so then there will be no corrosion defense. Also I read that there is an uncertainty about the gaskets breaking down when mixed or when switching from types of coolant. So I guess I'll just change my coolant like NOW :) ...I'm sure the previous owners haven't done ANYTHING to this vehicle except put gas in it and drive it. :sick:
  • darren04darren04 Member Posts: 3
    So finally after way to long going through wires I have found the short. It was the plug going into the coil pack under the hood. The problem is still there because I'm not sure if its the plug itself or the actual coil pack. But thanks for all the help and ideas where too look. Now I just need that new plug and or coil pack, probably a good idea to replace both is what I'm thinking.

    Thanks,

    Darren
  • kcd2006kcd2006 Member Posts: 1
    First run diagnostic of ABS sensor for each tire. It may save you money! If one sensor is off replace it. Our repair shop did this to find the Front Pass. side sensor reading 0 at 5m/h. Our hub was fine, the sensor was bad. Called parts store was told that sensor was only available with aftermarket hub for $300. Called GM dealer sensor only $83.
  • isoiaisoia Member Posts: 6
    Always seem to have problems after going through the carwash. Just replaced the fuel pump, broke down on the freeway, ignition wasn't making an electrical connection so my key was stuck, and I had absolutely no power. The problem was I needed to clean the two-way fuse underneath the battery. It ran beautifully since then. NOW . . . I have a problem with the fuel filter! Again, the problem arises after a trip to the carwash. I've replaced the fuel filter, but the hose connecting to the top of the filter is partly busted, and doesn't snap into place with the new filter. It is the RIGHT part with the right accessories. The previous owner used two O-Rings for the filter, but I've decided to use just one, and it's left me with a major fuel leak. Has anyone encountered this problem? Any suggestions, before having to replace the entire fuel line?

    Thanks, iSOiA
  • isoiaisoia Member Posts: 6
    Always seem to have problems after going through the carwash. Just replaced the fuel pump, broke down on the freeway, ignition wasn't making an electrical connection so my key was stuck, and I had absolutely no power. The problem was I needed to clean the two-way fuse underneath the battery. It ran beautifully since then. NOW . . . I have a problem with the fuel filter! Again, the problem arises after a trip to the carwash. I've replaced the fuel filter, but the hose connecting to the top of the filter is partly busted, and doesn't snap into place with the new filter. It is the RIGHT part with the right accessories. The previous owner used two O-Rings for the filter, but I've decided to use just one, and it's left me with a major fuel leak. Has anyone encountered this problem? Any suggestions, before having to replace the entire fuel line?

    Thanks, iSOiA
  • randypaperandypape Member Posts: 7
    hello, as friend's 1999 gmc jimmy is giving him problems with the 4wd unit. he was told his electronic transfer case computer module is bad $550.00 and the actuator . is there a tell tale way of checking this out ? this shop wants over $900.00 to fix it. thanks Randy
  • Beckyj636Beckyj636 Member Posts: 1
    Where is this relay?

    My power locks work, BUT neither power seat does.

    I have the 96 Blazer
  • mwillsmwills Member Posts: 3
    Hi - just learned a very expensive lesson concerning DEXCOOL coolant. Lost an engine, ended up replacing the engine, radiator, thermostat, pump, and hoses. We bought the car used, and as a precaution, had the cooling system drained, flushed, and new coolant. A couple years later we lose the engine. We were stranded on I5 about 30 miles from home. Had to limp home a few miles at the time (after filling with water) and wait for the engine to cool down. Later learned a head gasket blew in three places. The used replacement engine also had DEXCOOL contaminant because it wasn't flushed before going into storage; that took a while to clean up. Of course, in 2004 when the engine was put on the shelf, these problems weren't known. The problem with DEXCOOL is the slightest amount of air in the system will cause the anti-corrosion material to settle out. It will clog any water passageway, in the heads, radiator, heater, even the hoses. After much research, there are a few things you can do to prevent the damage. One is to remove the orange coolant, flush several times with water (VERY completely), and refill with the old style green coolant that uses silica as the anti-corrosion method. Be careful to avoid long life green coolant that is based on the same organic technology as the DEXCOOL [I think it is called OLT]. If you want to stay with the DEXCOOL, have the engine inspected to make sure there is no damage, or clogging in the radiator. Then get the new style thermostat from GM or NAPA that has a loose pin in the barrier wall that will allow air to pass and go to the coolant reservoir. This purges air from the cooling system. Drain, flush, and replace the DEXCOOL coolant every 2 years or 50,000 miles, whichever is first. Get the shop to make every effort to bleed all air from the system, and replace the thermostat every coolant change. If your radiator has a cap, replace that every time also, with a STANT lever cap [this brand is recommended by GM]. Aging radiator caps are often the culprit letting air into the cooling system. Good luck, our experience cost over $2400. :cry:
  • gprixownergprixowner Member Posts: 1
    hi there, I am the not so happy owner of a gmc jimmy 97, I was having plenty of trouble with the truck's front wipers, I took the little motor out, disassembled it and inspected all the parts. I found that the wire harness attaches to a socket on the control module, for some reason, either be vibrations or movement when you do something close by; the solder on the module's pins breaks, causing an erratic performance, since I have the tools, I just resoldered the pins, taking care to make a better job than those guys at the assembly plants, and had no problems after. Still however, whenever I do anything close by, I will pull off the harness so as to not disturb the module's guts, annoying at some point, but beats paying for a new motor!
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    I recently purchased two Metri-Pack terminal removal tools (Delphi 12094430 and 12094429) in order to remove the Metri-Pack terminals from the Metri-Pack plastic connectors. The clip on the Metri-Pack plastic connector on my alternator was damage by someone with a "screwdriver removal tool" and normal vibration and wind from the fan can blow the connector off the alternator. A new 4-way Metri-Pack plastic connector (AC Delco PT1929 or GM-88860484) for the alternator cost $15. That is expensive for a 50 cent part but nothing else will do and General Motors knows it.
  • gator14gator14 Member Posts: 5
    i have a 1995 jimmy which i took to a mecanic to get the head gastets done. i was told i had a colasped piston. now can anyone tell me what that means and what are the causes of this. we have a 2003 van with the same motor and i don,t want it to happen to it. Thanks
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    now can anyone tell me what that means and what are the causes of this

    It means that your piston has become deformed due to excessive heating which, in turn, was caused by your head gasket problem.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Well, the problem you encountered is not exclusive to Blazers. It is a well documented problem that GM ran into by not securing the harness that plugs onto the connector you re-soldered (which is the exact correct repair - Good job!). I have seen it on Blazers, trucks, vans, you name it. It is caused by the constant vibration of the wiring harness being transmitted into the connector and fracturing the solder. Lots of new control boards were installed just for this reason.
  • my2000truckmy2000truck Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer 4X4
    I was thinking about converting my rear mounted spare tire to be inside of my truck, anyone know if there is a way to do this?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Well, the mounts for a 2dr *might* fit, but you will be left with holes in the body and a big loss of interior space. While I do like the smoother lines of an interior (or better still, underneath) spare tire, that full size spare takes up a lot of room.

    I have wondered why they didn't put a small spare in there. I am supposing it has something to do with that little doughnut being completely useless in an off road flat tire scenerio.

    Then again, with four inches of ground clearance, my xTreme sees pavement only!
  • brokenarrow1brokenarrow1 Member Posts: 2
    My 98 did it and my 02 does it. A guy drove by my in front of the gym and his was doing it............I think they all do it. Someone told me that the fan clutch is engaging..I don't know other than they all do it.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    All of the 4.3L engines do it, not just the Blazers. It is the fan clutch. No slippage when cold at startup, but will disengage within a minute or two. If it continues to roar, turn off the engine and see if you can move the fan by hand. If you can move the fan with only a bit of resistance, your good. If it doesn't turn, or takes a hard effort to turn, it is probably time for a new fan clutch. Running with a locked up clutch will affect your gas mileage, so it is worth changing.
  • keanijoekeanijoe Member Posts: 5
    I've spent days reading the forum here trying to figure out my truck,,,symptons are as follows...takes 3 attemps to start the truck when cold...just cranks until I try three different times...at low rpms the engine misses bad..If I floor the pedel it runs fine...on highway when I set cruise...engine starts to jump and miss..bad.
    sometimes the SELight comes on...other time it doesn't I've taken it to 3 mechanics....no one can figure it out...Have gotten two codes...MAPS sensor bad...Replaced...fuel pump, dist, cap rotor....plugs...wires....crank sensor...cam sensor..ignition lock assembly...One mech already told me the CAT was fine..
    Any help would be appreicated as I am at a loss...Planning on giving this car to my kid next month but it has to run right first...thanks again for any ideas.... oh I forgot...replaced the computer...also...got a code once that says engine is -7 degree on timing...can't adjust since the bracket is notched and holds dist in postion...also...sometimes the cruise works..sometimes doesn't...and sometimes only one side of the speakers play...help please.....
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Because of the starting issue, I would wonder about the fuel regulator. I know the V8 engines had a problem with the regulators leaking and causing hard starts, bad idle, poor low rpm performance.
  • keanijoekeanijoe Member Posts: 5
    thanks....I will check inot that....this is driving me nuts..
  • chewchangchewchang Member Posts: 2
    My alarm goes off about every two or three hours and the inside lights stay on inless my dome overide switch is preesed,any ideas?
  • mmorga24mmorga24 Member Posts: 2
    Ok here is the problem... I was first told that the problem started in my fuel pump by some shabby Meineke mechanic. He was wrong I took of the fuel filter and replaced it... It was horrid, so when the fuel filter was off we checked the fuel pump and it shot out gas with pretty high pressure. I called a mechanic and asked him about maybe the relays needing to be changed out to he say negative. OK my fuel system seems to be moving around gas, but my car will not start. The other day starter fluid did work and I got my car running. When my car was running there was no stalling or sputtering. I drove it around and used a can of seafoam to clean out the fuel system blah blah blah. So now I am curious could it be just a fuse or fuses, or faulty wire somewhere. I need some help before my head explodes
  • angieandrohanangieandrohan Member Posts: 9
    OK if I understand this you, spray starter fluid in the throttle body and it started and keep running for the day, I had the same problem and it was my fuel pump it will work but needs help to start, after about a week doing that it quits and would never start again, after putting the new fuel pump in, no problem, change the fuel pump and your problem should be over. let me know if I was any help.
  • mmorga24mmorga24 Member Posts: 2
    ok thanks man, I am getting the fuel pump changed more than likely sucks though...I thought I had it fixed then it zonked out on me.. ugh. Did you have any other problems after this?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Okay, before you change the fuel pump, get where you can listen to the fuel tank and have someone turn the key to RUN, not start, and see if you hear the fuel pump run for a second or two and then stop. The fuel pump runs a "prime" cycle to pressurize the fuel system before starting. Once the engine starts, a different circuit kicks in and keeps the fuel pump running. The clue here is that if you shoot starter fluid to it, it starts and then runs okay.

    Another dirty little trick; if you do not hear the pump "prime", take your foot and kick the bottom of the fuel tank. Don't try and cave it in, just give it a good thump. Then cycle the key and see if you here the pump prime, and start. Common failure in GM fuel pumps for years is that they get "stuck" and won't spin up. Give 'em a good thump and they will work again. For a while. Once they get to this point it's time to change them out. I have seen this on pumps with less than 50K miles on them.

    Good luck
  • navigator7navigator7 Member Posts: 1
    Please Help!! I am having the same troubles you mentioned with my Blazer and wondered if you ever figured out the problem.
  • mikey153mikey153 Member Posts: 2
    We had a lot of that abs/brake light. stopped in the middle of Road crap. And no one could fix it. after a tip from a friend to unplug all cables to computer (right side of engine) clean them with a electric cleaning spray and use Di electirc Grease in the connections. I used large wire ties around plugs and the computer to make sure they were tight. No more problems after 2 years of nightmare a little grease and some wire ties Good to go.
  • drlong51drlong51 Member Posts: 3
    I have a problem getting the pan down after taking out all of the hardware and removing the cable. The pan will not move forward at all. the front will drop but something is holding it from moving forward. What could be stopping it?
  • drlong51drlong51 Member Posts: 3
    What could cause a 1997 Blazer to stall when stopping? The gas is still has about 1/4 full and it starts up emidiately after. It also is harder to start when cold.
    An thoughts?
  • drlong51drlong51 Member Posts: 3
    have a problem getting the pan down after taking out all of the hardware and removing the cable. The pan will not move forward at all. the front will drop but something is holding it from moving forward. What could be stopping it?
  • robert9876543robert9876543 Member Posts: 1
    my jimmy starts when cold or when hot but if i shut it off leave it for 20 minutes i have to roll it over and shut the key off about 10 times then it will start again never quits while driving no miss or hesatation or stumble you can hear the fuel pump when this happens any ideas ??
  • hdfxrs1hdfxrs1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy that has recently developed an alarm problem. The alarm goes off antwhere from 1 to 4 hours after the doors are locked. What can cause this?
  • rbenn908rbenn908 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2002 blazer with soft brake pedal goes to floor changed master cylinder and checked all lines but still have this issue cant get inspected and checked all issues listed as being the problem
  • moooose102moooose102 Member Posts: 1
    late this spring, the a/c quit working on my truck. so, last week i bough a couple of cans of r134 (one with oil, stop leak, leak detecter die, etc.) and installed both cans. the fill kit came with a guage attached. anyway, the decal on the heat/cooling duct says the system takes1lb 12 oz.( 28 ox) the 2 cans i bought totaled 36 oz. the a/c works fine at an idle, it will sit there all day with no trouble. but when i rev the engine up even just to 1500 rpm, the pressure goed below 30 psi snd the a/c compressor is electricly shut off by the pressure switch.. is this normal? or should i buy anothe small can of freon, and try adding more?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Could be a blocked orfice tube. If the high side pressure builds, and the low side drops way down, I believe that is what is indicated.

    There are other guys here who are better at A/C than me, but I seem to recall that is the cause of your symptom.
  • dmowrydmowry Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Chev. Blazer. I am having problems that no one can seem to figure out and I'm at my wits end with it. The service engine light came on, had it cheked, O2 sensor, took it to be checked thouroughly at an "electrical" service garage. Hooked to sensor machine for three days. Nothing concrete was discovered. Service engine light was cleared. The problem is that it will not shift automatically. I have to shift manually to keep it running, it is sluggish and putt putts if you do not manually shift, it almost and has stalled when first pulling out. Is this a transmission problem or a sensor that was not read on the machine at the garage?HELP! This had been going on for 6 months and I'm afraid it is going to let me sit along the road soon. UGH!
  • jsleeper81jsleeper81 Member Posts: 1
    Hey there I found your message on edmunds I did not see any repies to your message and was woundering if you ever got this figured out mine is doing the same thing I have an 02 model I have also learned that if you come to a stop really slow and feather the brake pedal in and out while stoping it does not dies as often
  • redddogg1redddogg1 Member Posts: 2
    would like to know can use a 98 s 10 pick up nose on a 95 s 10 blazer
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