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I took it to my local mechanic (before I took it to the mazda dealer) and he said otherwise...he thought maybe a hose was loose.
Anyway, I'm pissed that the dealer said they checked all the connections and that there are no problems. They know more than I do, but something isn't right. Should I try another dealer? Its going to mean time off work, since they don't look at this kind of stuff on wknds.
Also, the turbo was replaced prior to purchase.
I wish you the best of luck in your recoveries and hope you are successful in getting Mazda to help you with your medical bills and other damages.
We took the car into our local Mazda dealership, had a horrible customer service rep who could not have cared less about what was happening with our car or how quickly it would be looked at - we made an appointment for 8:15 am, had to tell the customer rep (he was ofiicially an advisor, I think) what the AT warning light was for, he told us that they would get to our car, but that it would be a while as they would have to look at other cars that came in before ours (so what was the point in making an appointment?), and told us to call to check to see if our car had been looked at yet - had to tell him that he should call us to let us know when the car was being looked at and what was wrong. Six hours later, and the car still hadn't been checked out. We were so upset, we asked them to just give us the car so that we could take it somewhere else. Jim Ellis Mazda on Cobb Pkwy, in case anyone else would like to avoid such an experience.
But I digress. My husband had a better customer service experience at Mazda of Roswell. They told us that there was a bad cylinder that would need replacing that was most likely the cause of our issue. Said that it would cost $1800.
My questions: 1) Is this a reasonable price? 2) Has anyone else experience a similar issue and what was done to fix your problem?
Thanks for the help!
Is it normal behaving for Mazda CX-7? Does it mean I have to warm up engine for 2-3 minutes before start driving? (with my second car (Hyundai) I do not have this issue and can drive instantly.) :confuse:
Usually means the transaxle is overheating...
"..bad cylinder..."
Solenoid, maybe...??
80,000 miles on an overstressed (F/awd) drive train...?
You're more likely looking at a rebuilt transaxle.
Do you know if this is a commen issue with this model or if I maybe just have a lemon. I have approx. 70,000 miles on it.
Or second possibility is intermittent transaxle output shift rotatuinal speed sensor.
Engine/transaxle ECU "detects" knock/ping, thinks it's due to engine lugging, DOWNSHIFT, QUICK....
Knock/ping detection disappears and car goes into "re-acceleration" mode.
Were they able to fix your issue? What repairs were done?
any ideas what is going on?? I am hoping it is a simple thing to unlock the system so it will switch gears again because today at 3:00, it worked perfectly fine and the next time i drove it which was around 6:30, it had this issue....engine sounds fine too.