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I have recently changed the thermostat of my 97 Escort and since then the check engine coolant light randomly turns on and off every few hundred miles. The T-gauge never shows higher temperature than normal and is working properly, neither the engine overheats. The light can stay for a minute or two and then it goes off. Or it just flashes and does not remain on all the time. Did anyone have ever had problem like this? I guess it is just a matter of loose contact or shortcut that activates the sensors.
My 1.8 Lt turbo diesal S reg. has a heating problem. the thermostat has been changed but to no avail. the blowers are working but just blowing cold air, regardless of what setting is used. I would be grateful for any advice and help.
thank you
Gillian
I have on my 97 Escort a check engine light message that reads P1443. The book says it is Evaporative emission control system - vacuum system, purge control solenoid or vapor management valve malfunction. I had this exact error 3 years ago (at 61K miles) and had to replace the purge and flow solenoid kit. Now I have 131K miles and I assume it is the same malfunction. Could it be something else and how can I troubleshoot? What would happen if I don't replace the solenoid? Would the fuel tank pressure decrease the gas mileage? I recently reset the computer and would wait to see if the light appears again. Might be from the tank cap too... Any ideas?
Hope you fixed your trouble..........
Scott
help
1.9 litre
Car would not start battery is new and tests perfect. I sprayed start fluid in and the car started. went to local shop they said fuel pump was weak, I had them change the fuel filter and the car started fine. a few days later it wouldnt start again so i bought a new pump and installed it the car still would not start without starting fluid sprayed into tube leading from air filter. checked the fuel pressure and got about 38 LBS at the fuel rail. checked fuel pressure regulator and it is fine. I built test leads for every sensor on the engine and they all fall into the specs from chilton manual. I had the EDIS module from the front fender checked and they said it was perfect. I found that I have no spark when the engine is cranking, If this is true how does it start with starting fluid? If there is no spark during cranking is the problem the EDIS module in the engine compartment or is it the ECM module in the tunnel by the stick shift?
I am lost. I usually understand these issues but I cant figure this out. Is there a cranking mode in the EDIS module?
The lack of spark thig makes no sense I also changed coil pack plug wires and plugs.
Someone please give me an idea of where to go next.
I also tried reding any codes with an analog meter as described in the books and there are no codes.
Also when I do start the car with fluid it runs perfect.
The car has 192K on it and I love this car but I am out of ideas of what to do next.
Please help.
Lardog
THANK U
butch @butch's auto & diesel machine shop :confuse:
After first time added dielectric grease to coil pack, ECU? connector and plug wires (new plugs and wires already). Ran great for short distances and two rainy days around town. On way back to school in the rain died. Going tomorrow to try and diagnose seems electrical? maybe fuel??
Don't have a service manual. Any ideas
The sensor is located inside the air intake pipe, just inside of the air filter (between the air filter housing and the intake manifold).
Odd that the fuel filter would act up only in the rain...
Check engine light has come on and off at least twice, but it's been a long time - at least a year. I remember twice thinking that the car felt excessively hot when returning home from short (30 minute drives) and made a mental note to ask someone about it which I never did (coolant was OK).
Car has never got great mileage, 20-22 mpg, mostly local.
Here are the issues - flaky temperature gauge will register correct temperature at cruise or at stop, but when I let my foot off the gas or the car shifts or occasionally when neither of those conditions exist, the gauge drops to zero - sometimes it recovers immediately, sometimes in a few seconds.
Car surges at about 1 second cycles when at a stop when car is warm - IF the A/C is ON the idle is fine - if A/C is then shut OFF the car resumes surging when the cooling fan stops.
There is some sluggishness getting up to highway speed - not terrible, but noticeable.
There is a sound in/near the engine compartment while accelerating that sounds like the exhaust system, but there are no leaks.
Plugs and wires are new, serpentine belt new, fuel filter new, air filter nearly new, IAC cleaned, throttle body cleaned, new muffler and pipes. No apparent vacuum leaks.
Does anyone have clues about any of my issues? My next thoughts are EGR, O2 sensor, throttle position sensor, replace IAC, but in what order or is any one more likely than another. I don't see how any of those will cure the temp gauge although they could help the other issues.
Thanks for any help you can give.
As for the plug not working.... what is the problem? Physical damage? Otherwise, there may be a bad fuse that controls it. This happened to me on a Dodge Caravan - the link port was protected by a 10A fuse that had blown; replacing the fuse solved that hiccup.