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Ford Escort Engine Problems

13

Comments

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    That's fantastic!

    Vacuum leaks.... they're almost as bad as electrical gremlins. Hopefully your car is back in its 'A' game for a while!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • louiefordlouieford Member Posts: 2
    so i have a ford escort village 97,i have it for about a month now...the problem is that when i press the clutch it either accelerates till like 3000rpm and stays like that for a few seconds then it just dies unless u accelerate it while it drops and it drops preety fast either it just dies no matter in wich gear u are its happening often and often every day like at every stop or light i have to start the car again..plz help me out guys
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    I am going to guess that you either have a vacuum leak or a bad throttle position sensor (TPS). I have an intermittent revving issue with my Escort as well. Shutting the car off and then turning it back on seems to correct the problem for a while, but it invariably returns. Last spring, when the problem was very bad (no stalling issues, though), I replaced the TPS and the problem was gone. However, it has begun to return and is making me think that perhaps the issue is more vacuum-related than sensor-related. I am not sure, but since the sensor is $45 to replace, I am going to inspect the vacuum system thoroughly in the Spring before looking at sensors again.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • louiefordlouieford Member Posts: 2
    i am going to a repair shop tomorow and hear what they say
  • gruchowgruchow Member Posts: 3
    It could be the mass air sensor thats lacated right by the air filter. their is a spray you can buy for around 6$ at a parts store its a mass air flow sensor cleaner once you get that then take the sensor out and theres two realfine like wires on the sensor that get dirty when you get the sensor out just follow the directoins on the can. You will be able to see if its dirty or not.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Yes, I agree that could cause the stalling. I have never had a tempermental MAS cause revving, though. Cleaning it couldn't hurt!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • roberto7503roberto7503 Member Posts: 1
    I have big problem with my Ford Escort 97 2.0 135 k second time drop valve.
    Any advise. any machine shop or big company fixing those heads (any improve)
    That is my wife's car she love it. Same problem different valve #1 & #3.
  • kestrel28kestrel28 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    My Escort has 275,000 miles on it (currently, 110, 000 miles on a new motor). It's been getting about 4 miles per gallon less than it usually gets per tank 28 instead of 32.

    Service engine light went on Sunday.

    Going uphill around 40, transmission will not click into gear. It does not do this on flat or downhill.

    Here's the code I get:

    MIL ON
    MONITORS
    0 INC
    7 READY
    MISFIRE
    FUEL
    COMP
    CATALYST
    02 SENSOR
    02 HTR
    EGR

    END OF CODE.

    Can anyone help me this this?

    Thanks in advance,
    Dave
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    What did you use to pull this diagnostic? Were there not simply codes, such as P0420, etc?

    Have you ever replaced the oxygen sensors on it? If not, they are probably pretty worn out and giving poor feedback to the emissions management system. That may be the most likely source of the poor fuel economy. I have 127,500 on my '98 LX and it intermittently gives me starkly poorer mileage. I also get a code, P0420 (Catalytic Converter Below Threshold), that leads me to believe the oxygen sensors are involved. I am going to replace them this Spring to see if that helps.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • orcabcorcabc Member Posts: 6
    I have the same problem with my heat gauge. Did you ever find out what it was that was causing the problem?
  • orcabcorcabc Member Posts: 6
    edited February 2010
    2.0L, automatic, fuel injected, A/C, having a few problems. First, when I start the car up it runs fine. As the car warms up is will start to run rough, not while highway driving (at least not yet), only while sitting at a stop light or while accelerating from a stop. At a stop light it will run a bit rough the longer it idles then it will start to skip. After being stopped and I start to accelerate, the harder I step on the gas the more it will sputter. It’s like it’s not getting any gas and I can barely get any speed out of it. Then, if I let of the gas and try it again it may or may not sputter. It hasn’t stalled yet, but the problem is getting worse every day. I do not get a "Check Engine" light.

    The spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter were changed in September and the ignition coil was changed today. Re-gapped the spark plugs a few days ago, they look fine. It was on a scope today and I have one print out. Said the negative was showing a spike? Or something like that and diagnosed it as the ignition coil.

    Other problems (related?):

    1. heat gauge goes up and down, sometimes will bottom out as I push on the accelerator, but have no idea if it is related. The gauge has a mind of it’s own.
    2. The high beam dash light will stay on some times when I dim the headlights.

    Any suggestions for a cure would be MOST appreciated.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    How long after starting it up does it start to show symptoms? If it is running fine before shifting to the "open loop," meaning it is using feedback from various sensors to adjust the fuel/air ratio, your problem may not be be mechanical but, instead, electrical. Once the engine is at operating temperature, it uses feedback from the mass airflow sensor, oxygen sensors, etc., so those may be worth checking.

    I had bad spark plug wires early last year that caused similar symptoms to yours, but they provided consistently poor performance regardless of engine temp. An ohmmeter showed extremely high resistance in two of the wires.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • orcabcorcabc Member Posts: 6
    There is no noticeable symptoms when it is cold. I can start the car, warm it up for a minute, and drive to work in the morning which is about 5 minutes down the highway and then about 5 minute city driving and it runs fine. It generally starts after the car has warmed up. It really doesn't like to sit at lights as it starts to idle rough and bucks every so often. After sitting at the light and I hit the accelerator a little harder than normal to go it will sputter like it's starving.

    I had the problem before the new plug wires so it's probably not that. I will look into what you suggested. This could truly be a costly find.

    After owning a Ford Festiva for 18 years, which was the best car I have ever owned, and running this used Escort for a year and a half I really can't compare. I understand the Escorts have many problems, looks like I bought into them.

    Thank you.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Haha; I hear ya. While my escort, a '98 LX, is reliable, I have put 150% more into it than what I paid at the start and I have only had it for nearly 20 months now. Still, it is an incredibly cheap car to drive. With the new Festiva about to be released, I keep playing with the idea of replacing this one in another year or so.... :sick:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • orcabcorcabc Member Posts: 6
    I can't say I get the greatest gas mileage, especially so lately. And, today my car made a liar out of me. When I started it after work it hiccuped a couple of times just after starting it. So, it does not have to be warm to give me problems.

    Just how much money is too much when it comes to fixing up older cars? Sure can't afford a new one even though that would be nice.

    I think you mean the new "Fiesta" being released, at least that is what is coming out in Canada. Please correct me if I am wrong...if they are really coming out with a Festiva remake then that would be awesome! :)
  • orcabcorcabc Member Posts: 6
    Wouldn't the 26 point diagnostic show that the O2 sensor had a problem? Same for the Mass airflow sensor, etc.? There was a check list that had a green check mark by these things. I have no idea how these things work.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    edited February 2010
    Fiesta - yes, sorry!

    As for sensors, not necessarily. They can be working well enough to satisfy the engine diagnostics (which is based on voltages and resistances) but still be providing erroneous information if they are fouled, dirty, or otherwise compromised. If the sensor is still "working" it often will not throw a code.

    You know, it does sound like the issue may be spark-related if your car had "hiccups" just after starting. Try observing the engine bay in the dark while it is idling and watch for spark - perhaps the coil has a hairline crack? I know you just put in a new one but it can't hurt. Other options include fuel injectors (dirty or not operating properly), fuel pressure, and sticking valves.

    How much is too much? Well, my opinion is that you would have to spend upwards of $4,000 a year on a "paid" car to have it cost as much as a new one, so if you are spending half or less than that much, it is probably a better investment. That is, however, assuming the car is generally reliable. Peace of mind counts for a lot, so if you cannot drive the car without worrying about it breaking down, you may consider replacing it. The problem, though, with buying another older used car is that you then have an unknown entity and may end up in the same situation you now find yourself, but with a car into which you have just sunk $4,000-5,000 to purchase.

    It's a gamble, for sure, but every car needs maintenance and has wear items that must be replaced periodically.

    Oh, and I think the alternator on my Escort is going out. It seems to engage intermittently all of a sudden and most of the way to work this morning my lights were very dim.... :(
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • orcabcorcabc Member Posts: 6
    Spark related? Well aren't you just one smart cookie? LOL It turns out that the plug wires were not changed when I had the tune-up a few months ago. And, my daughter discovered it, not the mechanic. I think I will pay my daughter from now on. My car seems happy now :)

    I guess now it's to find the short (?) in the heat gauge, high beam indicator light, and tail lights. I have a brake light that is coming on and off when it wants to as well. I understand that there have been others who have had problems with tail lights too. I am not sure where to look but have to start somewhere so I guess it will be with the head lights as someone had suggested and then the brake light that works when it wants to.

    Yes, I guess you are right about fixing up cars. You never know what you are getting when you buy used that's for sure. I hope you get your alternator problem worked out. Are you in the US?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    That's funny (if not frustrating), but at least you have it resolved! Electrical gremlins are the worst; I could tackle mechanical problems one after the other and not mind it too much, but those electrical issues drive me up the wall.

    The voltage regulator had gone out, so I replaced it and all is good now (for now!).

    I am in Alaska (Fairbanks).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • deerman11deerman11 Member Posts: 2
    I was driving my 1997 Escort wagon with a 2.0 engine on the interstate. The valves started rattling. I got on the ramp, put it in neutral and it quit running. Now when I try to crank it, the engine will not fire and is laboring to turn over as if it is out of time. It is not backfiring while it is turning over. I have taken the valve cover and timing cover off. The timing marks are correct and all the valves open/close so there appears not be any problem here. I am wondering if it is either the cam sensor or the crank sensor. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.
  • deerman11deerman11 Member Posts: 2
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Possibly, though I think it odd that one of those sensors would quit so abruptly. Given that everything mechanical looks to be in order, they may be your best bet at this point. It looks like you would be out about $60 for the pair, so that's not so bad. You should be able to test them with a multimeter to determine if they are out of range if you can find instructions for doing so (including voltage specifications).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • WarriorladyWarriorlady Member Posts: 4
    Hi,

    Everytime I try to put gas in, the sensor shuts off the nozzle. I'm told I have to replace the Purge Solenoid, but Ford no longer sells it and I need a part number.
    When researching online, I see a "starter solenoid" but not a Purge Solenoid.
    What exactly am I looking for? A valve, a sensor or electrical part? Please point me
    in the right direction. I don't want to have to replace the entire gas tank for a small part. Car out of commision since I'm told the fumes are not escaping and the car can blow up in this heat (northeast). Mechanic won't store car in his shop for fear of this. Thanks. :confuse:
  • grimyfacegrimyface Member Posts: 27
    Warriorlady,

    A Google search on the phrase "purge solenoid" produced *lots* of results.

    One of the results was from autozone.com, which suggests that this part will be available through your local parts dealer (which is usually the case when the dealer doesn't carry the part, anyway). ;)
  • WarriorladyWarriorlady Member Posts: 4
    I need two of part number F0CZ9B593B. Problems is I only found one, the part is no longer made or sold and I have no idea what this thing looks like. I've been researching on the web and have found tons of info on emission control and such. But it doesn't help me find this part that is no longer made, therefore, I can't find a picture. Any help will be appreciated.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Yeah, I am not really sure about that part. There is a vapor canister purge solenoid and purge valve, but I don't know about a vent valve for the fuel tank itself. Have you taken apart the system on your car?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • pastatiepastatie Member Posts: 26
    did you ever get a resolution to the problem? My sons 2000 with 101k miles is doing the same thing. the latest dealer fix was an egr solenoid and a replacement vacuum hose. they have replaced maf, fuel pump, coil, plugs, pcv, air filter. same code keeps coming up. any information is appreciated. thanks.
  • header1974header1974 Member Posts: 10
    Actually glad that you asked. We still have that engine light come on I just took car in to have the timing belt replaced and had them check on engine light warning. He said that it was indicating that the egr selnoid was not working so he first cleaned it and thought he unstuck it. It came back on and when I took it back he said that the egr selnoid had just been replaced recently. I probably had V.I.P. do it last year. Light came back on after they turned it off. Wish I had an idea on why it comes back. We have 170,000 on the 2001 and replacing timing belt was amazing really smoothed it out. It actually is running great but light still coming on. Back to the shop. Let me know if you have any luck. Header1974
  • kasper3kasper3 Member Posts: 1
    we are having the same kind of issue as we speak . maybe since then you've had some progress that might help us out. we are leaning towards electrical short of some type because car was running just fine only we took it in to find out why our a/c wasn't working and while engine was running the mechanic was checking under the hood all the power and checking for electrical failure and while test something on drivers side near electrical box the car cut off (not stall) on its own. when we tried to restart it wouldn't even catch a spark. then we went through similar process as you did.we replaced fuses, fuel filter and theres fuel pressure, and spark plugs are good, any ideas?
  • WarriorladyWarriorlady Member Posts: 4
    Hi All,
    Since it's been two months already, my car still sits at the mechanics. Thank God he doesn't charge me. I found one part in Alabama. But need a second one. NO ONE HAS IT. Just called AL again and they tried a search for the second one. No luck.
    If you can find someone in the junk yard with the part, please let me know, since I've been told they don't keep parts like valves. But that was one Auto Wrecker in the area. It is a fuel vapor valve or fuel tank vent valve, part # FOCZ9B593B for a 91 Ford Escort. I would hate to junk my car because of a stupid valve. Somebody has to have a solution. AL is sending me a photo of what they call part #9B593. Hopefully that will help me find it on ebay. Good Luck with your cars and I'll let you know what happens.
  • focus2001focus2001 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 ford focus 5 door wagon. Had problems driving would not go above 30 miles per hour. Took it to dealer, and was told there is a problem in 2000 wagons and I had to pay $250.00 to fix it, or $2500.00 to replace engine. I was told there is no recall issued on it, and that a possible fix to the problem was to paint the inside for $250.00 or replace engine for $2500.00. Does not make sense to me, and that the problem is known, but the company did not take action, and notify the owners of the car of a possible problem under the hood. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Paint the inside of what? Sounds like BS to me, but all I can do is speculate without any other stories to corroborate what you were told. :sick:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wannarunwannarun Member Posts: 4
    I bought my mothers 1999 escort SOHV 2.0.It has a weird noise from the engine that gets faster with rpms.sometimes it goes away but if you rev it up it comes back and starts smoking.Smoking is coming from an oil leak that I noticed around the block and bellhousing.The oil that is leaking has metal flakes in it,so I'm sure it's not good. Was wandering if it has dropped a valve,I seen all kinds of post for that problem. Car still runs and is not locked up.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    If you can describe the "weird" noise, maybe someone can offer some insight!

    Where on the block? Is it literally seeping from the joint between the block & bell housing? If so, it may be a rear main seal that has gone out. Main seals are always a bit of a pain, but on a little engine like this, it would be a day job to replace the seal.

    The question is whether or not it is worth it given the other issue! First thing: drain the oil and look at the contents - are you seeing a large metal content? Perhaps do an oil analysis (about $25.00) to get an accounting of the chemical content and oil health / engine health. Maybe cut the casing off the oil filter and look at the filter media surface to see if there are a flakes caught there as well.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • sgmaysgmay Member Posts: 2
    I wanted to change the thermostat on my 97 Escort. Head of the bolt popped off.
    M6 bolt, slightly under designed. There three bolts, so I decide to stop, suspect the other two will fail also. Before I attempt to proceed I wanted to find out if anyone had a similar experience and any success removing the failed bolt.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    I managed to get the bolts off of mine, but two of the three were heavily corroded, so I replaced them all when I reinstalled the housing. If you are lucky at all, the broken stud will have an 1/8" or more of material sticking out of the block. I would put some penetrating oil in it for a day or two, then try to back it out with a vice grip. If that fails, you'll likely have to drill it and try using a stud extractor.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • denzzdenzz Member Posts: 4
    My ford escort starts fine and quickly, I had a problem in the past where it would stutter and shake real bad and then turn off and wouldn't turn on at all after that.

    Had a friend look at my car, we replaced the fuel pump, fuel pump regulator that is in the trunk on the side wall and the car started up and hasn't seen that problem again.

    Over the last 2 or 3 weeks my car has been randomly shutting off mid drive. At first it was once every 4-5 days, then it turned into once everytime I left whether it was to down the street and back.

    I don't know much about cars, but I can tell you it has not shut off unless the thermostat was in the middle so it has always been warmed up never turned off while it was still cold.

    It could be shutting down after a certain amount of miles driven because it died on me at the same exact spot twice now from leaving home to get food, same intersection same place...

    The car also shakes a LOT when its idle, idles very rough but is very smooth once you use the gas, I've replaced the motor mounts and have got a tune up recently although I'm not sure if I trust the place that did it for me, the motor mounts I saw were replaced though.

    List of very recent work done on the car:
    Fuel filter (just the other day thinking this might of been the problem)
    Fuel Pump
    Fuel Pump Regulator
    Motor Mounts
    Tune up
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    If it doesn't do it until the car is warmed up, it is a sensor issue associated with "open loop" versus "closed loop" status. In other words, when the car is cold, it operates in a closed loop status meaning the car runs off preset operating parameters. Once it is warmed up, it goes to open loop, meaning it uses feedback from various sensors, such as the oxygen sensors, to adjust the combustion mixture, timing, etc, to optimize the vehicle's economy and emissions.

    If one of those components is not working properly, it will throw the whole system into disarray.

    I am curious, when it stalls, is it as simple as working fine to shut off, no other symptoms, or does it run rough, stutter, etc. before hand and then culminate in a stall?

    For you rough idling, it may be the knock sensor. I had a Subaru Outback that would do that when first started, but seemed fine once you gave it some gas. I ended up replacing the camshaft, crankshaft, and knock sensors simultaneously (the computer threw a code for the knock sensor and camshaft sensors, if I recall correctly), and that was like getting a new car. It solved an array of problems I was having at the time.

    Is your CEL illuminated? If so, beg, borrow, or buy a code reader to get the code list for further diagnosis! You could save yourself a lot of guess-work.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • denzzdenzz Member Posts: 4
    edited November 2010
    My CEL was lit up a couple months back and Autozone will get a code list for you for free so I did that and I believe i had that oxygen sensor show up on there, the light has not been on after i got some things fixed at a mechanic, they said my car was running too lean and fixed my vacuum lines

    When my car stalls there is no other symptoms at all, it just simply turns off, no stuttering or anything just straight to off, ALTHOUGH the first couple times this started happening, back when it was turning off once every 4-5 days it would die when i was driving steady and my gas pedal would go in and out of working, and within a few seconds die, it would almost even act as if it downshifted from a high gear 1 time to kinda slow it down and then it would turn off but that has only happened the first 2 or 3 times it did this, everytime since then it does not stutter or anything

    And I'm curious is this oxygen sensor and knock sensor easy to replace and or cheap? Maybe something I can do my self after getting the parts from a local auto store? I will have them check my car for a list of codes too but my CEL light is not on so will it show me anything? Or does the light have to be on
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Generally, no, sensors are not particularly cheap! For the Escort, though, they are not nearly so expensive as they were for my Subaru. I am planning to put new oxygen sensors on my '98 next spring, and they are about $35 each (there are two of them!) through Amazon. I am not sure about the knock sensor, that one could be about the same or even more. Without checking, I would estimate on the order of $50.

    They are certainly a do-it-yourself type of job, but the oxygen sensors can be a real pain since they are in the exhaust stream. The threads can often become corroded / seized, so patience and tenacity are both standard tools for the job. Plus, they are under the engine and a little awkward to reach.

    This suggestion may be a long shot, but try cleaning your mass airflow sensor, which is located just after the air cleaner housing, and see if that helps. Be sure to use a sensor-safe cleaner (basically a carburetor cleaner, but it actually says "sensor safe" on the can). The MAS is one of the items that is included in the open loop, but not the closed loop. I had a stalling problem in that Subaru that was resolved by doing that. I was not getting a CEL when this happened.

    As for codes without the CEL, yes, you can, but it depends on how recently it happened. I think the system clears itself out after 40 drive cycles with no problems, but there can be "pending" codes that throw in the system if something minor is out of whack one cycle but not the next. Those codes do not light the CEL unless they recur multiple times in a row.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • denzzdenzz Member Posts: 4
    I had autozone check my car for codes but nothing showed up, CEL was not on, but just had them check anyways.

    I replaced the Idle Air Control Valve today, took it for a test drive to a place about 10 miles away and things seemed to be running smoothly, it still idles a little rough, maybe not as much but it felt better to drive as if maybe I had fixed the problem.

    Made it all the way there fine without any stalls, although my dash lights came on as if it died, and went away after 1 or 2 seconds, it was very quick, as if it was dead and instantly came back on mid driving

    On my way back home it died about 3 times, all while coasting or slowing down.

    2 times it flickered my dash lights and my car was unresponsive for a couple seconds and then everything was fine as if nothing happened (what i would call fake stalls or "ALMOST" stalls)

    As I was driving down 1 street around 45 MPH i let off the gas to coast and it felt like it maybe died but none of my dash lights were on, so i pushed the gas in, the gas had no response, it was as if I was pushing the gas in with the car off... after coasting from 45 MPH to about 30-25 MPH my gas pedal was responsive again and everything was normal...

    So end point, It felt like it may have fixed it at first, ran a little differently maybe a little "better" but the way it stalls is somewhat different with these partial stalls (i say partial because my car is responsive again and still runs without me having to turn the key off and back on) and it would sometimes feel as if the power and responsiveness of my car was going in and out over the period of a few seconds like it wants to die but tries its hardest to hang on
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Try cleaning that airflow sensor... it look something like this on the car:

    image

    Replacement is not cheap (probably about $100 for the sensor only, without housing), so don't replace it unless you have no other choice.

    I am still strongly convinced this is a sensor issue and not a mechanical problem. You might be able to run some electrical tests to see what circuitry (relay) is actually causing the engine to cut out (such as an automatic shutdown relay) - that may help narrow down the sensors that could lead to that failure. :confuse:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • denzzdenzz Member Posts: 4
    Okay, well I didn't have the tool to take the actual sensor off the housing, but I sprayed in the tube where u see the wires at the end of the sensor is that good enough or may work partially but not fully? Becuase after i sprayed it down with cleaner and re assembled it, my car seemed to run better and not die, AT least now it does not die for a longer period of driving, i drove double the distance I used to be able to and it died once. the same way it has been, but cleaning that or a mixture of cleaning that and replacing my IAC valve seems to have helped it a lot, but it did still die once after the fact so that means the problem still is there right? i dunno if any of this info helps narrow it down.

    And i really appreciate your help thank you.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    At this point, I am purely speculating. If those adjustments/changes seemed to help quite a bit, perhaps it is a problem here. Do you know anyone with an Escort like your own (that runs properly)? Perhaps you could "borrow" the MAS on that one and see if it clears up your problem. I hate to recommend replacing it on a whim simply because it is so expensive, but it is also tough to move on to other possibilities when you cannot eliminate possibilities first.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wannarunwannarun Member Posts: 4
    Update ,My brother in law said the flywheel may have come loose,so I took the trans. access plate off to see into the flywheel and all seems tight. However it made a cluncking noise when I first engauged the starter so I shut it off,when I went to restart it the starter just turns over not the motor. So I had my wife cranck it and I looked through the access hole and could see the flywheel and torgue converter spinning. But the motor wasn't. Is there a keyway that may have broke or something else.....
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    It would be very unusual for that to happen, but it is not impossible!

    The flywheel (flex plate on an automatic) connects to the crankshaft on the engine, usually by way of six bolts that are torqued to ~75 foot-pounds. If the flex plate and torque converter spin freely with the starter and crankshaft does not spin, that connection is now severed for whatever reason. Without splitting the units apart or scoping the area inside that access cover, we cannot know for sure.

    What concerns me more is why this would even happen! It may very well be a symptom of a bigger problem. Again, there is no way of knowing until you get in there to see the nature of the damage. :sick:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • shootingstar1shootingstar1 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1991 ford escort 5 speed on floor Gt 1.9 liter in it 4 cylender. I have a problem with it not wanting to start. However u can push start it and it runs fine. Sometimes it will start right back up after u run it a while then sometimes it wont start at all. I know it wont start at all after it cold. When u turn the key on everything comes on it just wont turn over so if anyone has any answers please let me know i need to get my car back on the road i am tired pushing and walking everyhere ty
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Please clarify "turn over," because different people connote that phrase differently. Do you mean that the starter fails to operate, or that it does operate but the engine does not fire?

    If the starter is not operating, it could be a bad ground or a bad solenoid. To check the ground, follow the negative battery cable to its terminus and make sure the connections are tight, as well as verifying that the cable is in good condition (no fraying at the connections, no corrosion). Sometimes, if the solenoid is going bad, you can tap the side of the starter with a hammer or mallet (lightly) while someone else is holding the ignition to "start," and it will engage. If you don't have someone to help you, you can also try tapping it, then attempting to start, but it might not be as effective.

    Another possibility is that the ignition itself has a bad connection, but I would check the other two possibilities first.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • caddymechaniccaddymechanic Member Posts: 1
    run a compression check on it because my escort kinda does the same but i have a dead cyl. because of a bent valve in the head. hope this helps.
  • miles1smiles1s Member Posts: 2
    95 ford Escort turns over but wont start. I checked the fuel and replaced the filter, gas is flowing and i pulled the spark pluggs and there is spark. But wont start..
    Also as i was driving home the car just died and only turns over or start. The past month or so sometimes it would turn over for a few sec before starting and others it would fire right up.. Anyone have ideas??
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