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Nissan Altima Engine Failures

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well first off consider this RECALL:

    MAKE/MODELS: MODEL/BUILD YEARS:

    Nissan/Altima 2002 2005-2006

    Nissan/Sentra 2002 2005-2006

    MANUFACTURER: Nissan North America, Inc.

    NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER: 07V527000

    MFR'S REPORT DATE: November 08, 2007

    COMPONENT: Engine and Engine Cooling

    POTENTIAL NUMBER OF UNITS AFFECTED: 653910
    SUMMARY:
    On certain passenger vehicles equipped with a 2.5L engine, the crankshaft position sensor can overheat causing a brief interruption in the signal output from the sensor.

    CONSEQUENCE:
    If the interruption in the signal from the crankshaft position sensor is so brief that the Electronic Control Module (ECM) logic does not have time to diagnose the condition, the engine may stop running without warning while the vehicle is driven at a low speed increasing the risk of a crash.
    REMEDY:
    Dealers will reprogram the ECM free of charge. Certain M/Y 2006 Altimas which have been previously remedied under recall campaign 06V223000 (Nissan R0606) are not included in this recall since the reprogramming for 06V223000 also included this reprogramming. The recall is expected to begin on or about December 10, 2007. Owners may contact Nissan at 1-800-647-7261.

    NOTES:
    This is an expansion of a previous campaign (06V223000). Customers can also contact The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236 (TTY 1-800-424-9153), OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.

    DESCRIPTION:
    Component Description
    The crankshaft position sensor (POS) is located on the cylinder block rear housing facing the gear teeth (cogs) of the signal plate at the end of the crankshaft. It detects the fluctuation of the engine revolution.

    The sensor consists of a permanent magnet and Hall IC. When the engine is running, the high and low parts of the teeth cause the gap with the sensor change.

    The changing gap causes the magnetic field near the sensor to change.

    Due to the changing magnetic field, the voltage from the sensor changes.

    The ECM receives the voltage signal and detects the fluctuation of the engine revolution.

    REPLACEMENT:

    1. Loosen the fixing bolt of the sensor.
    2. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor (POS) harness connector.
    3. Remove the sensor.

    These sensors can be checked by an ohm meter but I don't have the terminal positions or the values. A repair manual would probably show you these.
  • acevedo669acevedo669 Member Posts: 3
    hey thanks alot. its my wifes car and she never really took care of so i get stuck driving it around.i try to see if its been fixed for the recall yet. thanks again!!!!
  • larzodlarzod Member Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    I am new to the forum. My engine is making this loud vibration when I am at a stop. the vibration is a little less noticable when it is a park or neutral. I was told by jiffy lube that it was the tension pulley and that the belt was fine. I took it in to the delership the service person that writes up the service ticket (not a mechanic) told me it was the alternator.

    Is there anyway to find out which one it is. The dealership told me that it was going to cost 600.00 for just the alternator plus labor. jiffy lube told me they don't do that kind of work put the tension pulley should not cost more than 50.00, and 60.00 for labor.

    Thanks for your help
  • jd10013jd10013 Member Posts: 779
    They could both be right. the altenator has a tension pully on it. I don't know if it's removable or if the whole altenator has to be replaced. anyway, if the car is out of warranty then there is no way in hell I'd have the dealership do the work on it. They'll easily charge you 20% or more than an idependant repair shop would. If I were you, I'd take it to a garage that you trust and get a third opinion.
  • jensdadjensdad Member Posts: 1
    There are a lot more than 25 others with this problem. There are hundreds if not thousands and Nissan claims they know nothing. My daughter has the exact oil consumption issue and from my research it apprears to be caused by the catt converter being sucked into the engine and scoring the motor. Did you file a complaint with the gov? I think everyone should.

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm

    Above is the link. We have because she cannot afford the $5,000 they say it costs to replace ther motor.
  • jd10013jd10013 Member Posts: 779
    you realize your replying to an 8 month old post?
  • wjldancerwjldancer Member Posts: 2
    My check engine lite came on so I took it to the local Autozone and they ran a check and said it was a O2 sensor but did not say which one, I understand there are two sensors. If so which one would it most likely be and what is the best brand to get, I was told by one parts sales person that the Bosh O2 sensors don't work well on the Altima? I know the universal ones need to be spliced in, that don't sound to reliable to me with water and dirt getting into a splice. I have 100,000 mile on the car and it is in otherwise very good condition I don't have any other issues. Thanks.
  • jd10013jd10013 Member Posts: 779
    Unless they're very expensive, I'd just replace both of them. that way you should have at least 100k more miles before you have to worry about it. but, if its expensive, or you don't have or want to spend the extra money, then just buy one, replace one of them but keep the one you take out, and see if the light check engine light goes out. if it does, you got the right one. if it doesn't, then replace the other one with the one you took out.
  • thebrennersthebrenners Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Our Service Engine Light came on a couple of days ago and we've noticed that car was using more oil than should have been. We have 119K on the car which we bought new in 02. Went on-line to research and found 100's of posts about the converter failure and the need for new engines that Nissan isn't taking responsibility for. I spoke with a service advisor at a local Nissan dealership yesterday and was told that the problem is so common, that Nissan recently extended the factory warranty to 15 years/150K miles for 04's, 05's and 06's. Of course, our car was not included. He explained what is happening to the engines and advised me to call Nissan Headquarters and open a case. I called and opened a case and then made an appointment with the dealership to take care of the latest recall that we weren't notified of. Took the car in this morning and was told that the recall was taken care of the last time we brought the car in so Service Engine light is still on and is being caused by an Engine Misfire. I was told for more information, we would have to have a diagnostic test performed. I'm fairly confident I know what the results are going to be. Could you fill me in a little further about your case? I'm willing to fight to the top to get this resolved. Thanks in advance.
  • wjldancerwjldancer Member Posts: 2
    Yes that does sound logical but the problem is the sensors are different. and they run about 160.00 each from the dealer, after market would be cheaper but still around100.00 each. Thanks for the reply .
  • cbennett52cbennett52 Member Posts: 1
    I recently got a recall on my nissan altima for a electronic control module. When I went to have it replaced I was informed that I would have to replace my battery which I haven't had any problem with. Personally, I think nissan should include this in my recall if that is what it takes to replace the part that they are recalling. They wanted $139.00 for the battery.
  • ujstanfieldujstanfield Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Nissan altima. Last year I stopped to refuel and it would not start back up. When we came back a couple of hours later with a mechanic friend it started no problem. thought maybe just a fluke or bad gas. Two days later I was once again stranded. Mechanic friend hooked up diagnostic comp and said my camshaft sensor was out. I called Nissan for the part they said I need to bring it there because their diagnostic comp would be more accurate. 160$ later I picked it up with the camshaft sensor replaced. Worked ok for a little over a year but sometimes felt like it would "miss" or like it was'nt getting gas. Then it started just dying while I was idling or if I slowed to turn and even just going at regular speed. Once again took to mechanic (had a/c issues and thermostat replaced also) 409$ later I picked it up with a new camshaft sensor. (of course Nissan said the other one was quaranteed for one year. replaced first time Jan 2007 second time Sept 2008. When I called about guarantee I was informed of some sort of recall with the ECM.(I had to ask about that becauses someone had mentioned it to me) I made appointment to have them reset that and was told I need oil change and air filter. So when I picked up my car I thought I was finished. Less than a month later it started taking along time to turn over. Finally leaving me once again stranded. We replaced the camshaft sensor again ourselves but it still takes along time to start (to the point of panic) we also had autozone test the battery...it was bad so we replaced it too. I have been reading on the computer that the CRANKSHAFT sensor is a problem also...we are replacing that today. I love the look of the Nissan Altima and was hoping to trade up to the Nissan Maxima. but I have read alot of bad stuff about this problem, and mine is really giving us major problems right now. I have 78000. miles. I expected to get more out of it.
  • consultant3consultant3 Member Posts: 1
    Sorry to hear about oil problems. I have an 03 with a 3.5 engine and just spent 750.00 for a mass air flow repair, tow and air filter. $550.00 new part at my regular repair shop. At 75k, extended warranty just ran out two months earlier. I just gave it a little gas and it hesitated and then finally would not start. Replaced altenator and new battery at 35k. new battery at 74k. now at 77k service engine soon light on? how much to ck it out? Rides terrible, feel every bumb. trunk wont close every time, have to flip switch inside. electrical problems with fog lights wont turn off. I have to turn headlights on manuelly. Dealer in San Antonio said Nissan doesnt know how to repair it! may go back to chevy, pay $1000's less compared to imports. We just cant WIN! R. P.
  • jdiggitydjdiggityd Member Posts: 1
    I know nothing about cars(ducks). When accelerating the car seems to be "catching" when it is changing gears(automatic). The rpms gauge will stall at about 2rpm's, the car will continue accelerating, and then will drop speed an almost lunge, "catch" until it finds the next gear and i can speed up some more.

    It seems to go from 1st gear to 2nd, then almost back to 1st, then to 2nd, then to 3rd, then back to 2nd, then back to 3rd, etc,etc. A lot of jerking movements,and the fastest i've gone is roughly 40mph under these conditions on about a 2 mile straightaway.

    I don't know how else to explain it. Any ideas? I will be happy to answer any questions.

    Thanks.
  • fbonerfboner Member Posts: 4
    2003 Altima SE 3.5 with only 45Kmi on it. Was *shocked* at last oil change/service when dealer told me the 'engine was on order'. As you can imagine, I have my twice-yearly oil changes after only about 4kmi! Turns out the 3.5's have TWO of the little bugger pre-cats to fail on you. In response to my complaint about 'heat shield rattle' the dealer pulled the bank 1 cat and it showed signs of deterioration. $6K is the approximate replacment cost and currently Nissan is supposed to be picking up the tab (will let you know how things get on) and for what it's worth I'm in Canada. We have bi-annual emissions inspections up here so not sure if I can go aftermarket header....coring the precats is an invisible option I suppose but the dealer won't do it, so I'll have to pay someone to take it all apart again...

    Dealer was evasive on the 'what happens when it happens again' question. Consensus was it wouldn't be covered a second time... So much for my plans to keep this car for another 8-10 years. Not of course that it will make it, as every problem I've had (other than this one) has been corrosion related and that's not likely to stop anytime soon.

    I have to say, after having both headlights replaced, the rear subframe replaced and now the V6 engine and precats on order....Nissan will have spent over $10K fixing this thing...so unlike most here I still have a modicum of faith in the brand. Of course, I have to have my rear brakes replaces every 18 months because of corrosion related crap...oh, and the ABS sensor is moved out of alignment when the rear bearing caps corrode...$500 whammy which if you don't address quickly burns out your $3000 ABS unit due to frequent and excessive engagement.

    That said I'm scared silly that this will be an ongoing issue, one that will seriously erode the trade-in values unless I act quickly. I also have read that the stupid engine mounts can fry your ECM....who would've thought? What's next...opening doors will cause your gas tank to explode?!?

    I'm still debating whether to stick it out or bail, but to anyone fence sitting on this issue, I'd suggest you run, not walk, away from these engines (QR25 and QR35's) which unfortunately means most of Nissan's lineup.

    Fred.

    PS I suspect it all started with a badly setup mixture in the ECM...so I'm going to push for an ECM reprogram too. No other reason for those cats to self-destruct, and there is a strong unburnt fuel smell when starting the car on cold days, and has been for years.
  • dev923dev923 Member Posts: 1
    My check engine light on my '02 altima said that i had a cylinder 2 misfire..car was running fine. I replaced all of the spark plugs and after a couple of days the check engine light came back on and has stayed on. Now my car is not wanting to start, and when it does it makes a horrible noise. But once it does start, it runs fine.Any ideas?
  • steinba1steinba1 Member Posts: 2
    New to the forum, and have read many posts relating to the Cat Converter. Similar issues, CEL and SES lights. After diagnostic the PO420 code came up. Took to dealer to handle recalls and was told the Cat Converter needed to be replaced. I bought pre-owned, certified w/ 33k miles, now has 85k and I'm being told it is out of warranty. Trying to fight it with Nissan USA, has anyone had any luck doing this?? I am awaiting a call from a "regional customer service" person....any help is MUCH appreciated...thanks...
  • dmforcedmforce Member Posts: 4
    Found out today I am in the same boat with you. 3K miles out of warranty - of course. If you wouldn't mind keeping me up to date on your progress with customer service, I will greatly appreciate it. I am going to start making the same calls myself tomorrow and will let you know my progress as well. Seems this is far too big of an issue that Nissan is obviously aware of for me to simply fork the money over. [email protected]
  • jd10013jd10013 Member Posts: 779
    If I'm not mistaken, there is a recall out on your year for a crank position sensor.

    link title
  • cdsjavaguycdsjavaguy Member Posts: 2
    hi guys. I just joined.,and have been reading everyone's comments on this oil and engine problem. We also have a 2002 Nissan Altima. We got our engine and transmission oil changed expactly about 4 weeks ago....3 wks after we started getting the oil sign...........3 days after , one morning the engine had started makinga very rough sound. When we took it to the dealer ship near by...they told us that it the cat convertor and the engine need to be replace. and it would cost us $4500. Ya Right.............how can an only 61/2 yr old car already need an engine replacement.
    We took it for a second opinion they said that it had something to do with one of the pistons miss firing. This place also informed us that they are pretty sure,there was some sort of a recall on either the engine or someething to do with the engine with the Altima and that we should definetely go back to Nissan.
    I will take the car to the dealership on Monday and will keep u all updated . I really hope there is a recall..........or else...........I 'm contacting NISSAN US for sure. Cars DO NOT NEED AN ENGINE REPLACEMENT IN 61/2 YEARS.
  • gooddeal2gooddeal2 Member Posts: 750
    Cars DO NOT NEED AN ENGINE REPLACEMENT IN 61/2 YEARS.

    I think there's a reason why most manufacturers only offer 5 years warranty on the powertrain. I know most engines can be last longer than 5-6 years but the chance that something will be broke down is higher after 5 years.
  • steinba1steinba1 Member Posts: 2
    Sorry for the delayed response, I have been waiting for a call from a Regional Service Representative. Which I just received. Nissan USA will not be providing me any financial assistance for the Cat Converter problem. Their stance is that if it is past 80k miles it is no longer their problem. I can not convey my level of frustration. If this was a unique/isolated situation I would have no problem with the decision, but given the fact that the issue is widespread for a lot of Altimas I feel that this is very poor customer service. I would not recommend the Nissan Altima to anyone with the slightest interest of any model or year.
  • fbonerfboner Member Posts: 4
    Well, they did it.

    I have a brand new V6 engine, 2 x new pre-cats and 2 x new oxygen sensors installed in my 7yr old car with only 45kmi on it ALL courtesy of Nissan. I have no idea of the final cost (~$6K), but the page of gaskets required must've run $500 or more alone... Acceleration rattle has *finally* gone away! Presumably so too the mysteriously disappearing oil problem... It took them two days to do.

    (BTW the car passed it's emissions test not 3 months earlier with flying colours, and no lights, no SES, no oil, ever came on)

    Dealership swears up and down that the new parts have improved formulations and won't suffer the same breakdown as the original parts. ECM was not reprogrammed. I'm going to keep the car, as I still like driving it a lot, and even if it does melt down in another 7 years...I'll probably have got my money's worth. That said, I'm so glad I hadn't packed the miles on it like I used to, or I would've blown the 8yr/130km warranty and be stuck with the mother of all repair bills (like so many on this site)...and be in a bit of a quandary, as in to how to dispose of the car-cass least recklessly...

    Thank you Nissan for standing by your product (well, to a point).
  • mj4248mj4248 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2002 Nissan Altima 2.5l with 73,000 miles. The SES light turned on 2 days after I had the oil changed and air filter replaced. I was able to find out the error code myself and it was reading ATF temperature sensor error. I then took the car to the dealership and was charged $100 to be told that it was indeed an ATF temperature sensor error and then an additional $200 to have the transmission fluid replaced. The dealership said the computer was reading a solenoid malfunction but when the mechanic checked it he concluded that there was nothing wrong so they just changed the transmission fluid.

    One week after having the light reset at the dealership and the transmission fluid replaced the SES light came on again. This time the code is p0302 (cylinder 2 misfire). I am not sure what to do at this point because the dealership told me that if the light were to come back on I would have to replace the solenoid which would cost about $600-$700. Although, I am hesitant because the error code is now something else.

    After reading several post from others with the similar dilemma I am not sure what to do. I feel like this SES light coming on is a chain reaction to many other problems and will only turn out to be money spent on a never ending problem. If someone could please give me some advice, it would be greatly appreciated. I am a girl and feel that every time I go to the Nissan dealership I am hustled and end up paying hundreds of dollars for minor problems all the while the mechanic is ignoring the major problem.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I check in here frequently, so myself and others here will be able to give you some advice.

    First, it is good that you are able to get the DTC's read for you, probably at an autoparts store or friend. Every person that drives a modern car should have or have acess to a DTC reader, one that can read the codes and clear the codes, at the minimum. There are better code Scanners that do more functions for more money, but those Scanners are for people who are more mechanical and work on their cars. I think owning a good Scanner is a very wise investment, I use mine for all my cars, and sometimes my friends cars. Seach for them with Google. So rule one is to be able to read the Codes and be able to clear the codes (turn off the SES light).
    Second, interpreting codes and repairing the problem can be done by places other than just the dealer. It would not hurt to have someone else look at the car and tell you what is wrong, what needs to be fixed and how much it will cost. A lot of places will take a look at it at no cost, so look around and find a good mechanic shop, and shop the market and the prices. If the car seems to be running ok with no problem, and the code is read and it does not seem to be a critical problem or a life safety problem, then clear the code to turn off the SES light, and see if the SES light returns. If it does, then investigate the problem further. If you have a real transmission problem or a real engine problem , you will be able to FEEL it or HEAR it, So rule two is to shop around.

    Third, I am not sure why the transmission error code apppeared and then went away. The best thing to do with this is to monitor the situation and see if it comes back, instead of automatically throwing money at it. In fact, just because the SES light comes on, does not mean you have to spend money on it. So rule three is don't spend money on the car just because the SES light came on, check it out and research it first. Google the Code number and find out all about it, and then ask about it on here.

    Fourth, the PO302 code is cylinder 2 misfire, have you noticed and missing or engine not seem to run right, sluggish, hesitation, stalling, hard starting or anything like that? Reset and clear the code and see if it comes back. This could be caused by several things. If it comes back, you may have to have a mechanic do some general test to find out the general health of the engine and try to pinpoint the problem. Some test may include a cylinder compression test, a vaccum test, a cylinder leakdown test, ignition test, fuel injector test, sensors test, wiring test, etc. After researching the problem, ask back here if you need to.

    So in general, if the car seems to be running ok with no problem, and the code is read and it does not seem to be a critical problem or a life safety problem, then clear the code to turn off the SES light, and see if the SES light returns. If it does, then investigate the problem further. If you have a real transmission problem or a real engine problem , you will be able to FEEL it or HEAR it,
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • cdsjavaguycdsjavaguy Member Posts: 2
    We also own a 2002 Nissan Altima and are also experiencing a very similar problem as yours. We just in the last month spend approx 1500 doing all the maintenance and changing all he oils and etc., etc. Something is definetely wrong with it now. The SES sign keeps coming of and on. THe car is sucking up the engine oil like crazy. We just put 3 qts in last week and the OIL SIGN is coming up again.
    One dealer ship says we need to replace the engine and another says our cylinder is misfiring. We also went back to the dealership we bought the car from, to check all the recalls and supposedly we've got everythig done and the problem we are having has nothing to do with the recalls. THe dealership, also suggested that we should call the MANUFACTURER, NISSAN USA and explain the problem to them and if they get enough complaints they may HAVE to do something. SO I WOULD SUGGEST, TO EVERYONE HERE ON THIS SITE TO CALL NISSAN @ 1-800-NIS-SAN1 AND COMPLAIN ABOUT THE PROBLEM WE ARE ALL HAVING. I KNOW, I'M GOING TO CALL THEM FIRST THING TOMORROW MORNING.
    I think it's rediculous that I have to pretty much get rid of this car and buy a new one, only after 61/2 yrs. I'm not giving up on this easily.
    Reading everyone's experiences here enssures me that there is obviously a manufactures defect in this model.
    By the way you should not feel hastled you because you are a girl. I am a girl , I understand how you feel. At this time, I can only suggest that you also make that one phone call to Nissan and lets see what happens. I'm ready to make sure that Nissan has a good explanation for this or they will never hear the end of it.
  • Gustavo_GGustavo_G Member Posts: 1
    Hi, i have been reading some of these messages and i seem to be having similar problems with my altima. problem started while i was driving, i was going around 45 mph when all of a sudden my car turned off. later i tried turning it on but would, i tried again, this time it did start but after it did about five seconds later it turned back off. i don't know what could be the problem, i don't really have money right now to take it in to a shop, so i'm asking you guys if anyone could give me some hints on what could the problem be.
  • gp0137gp0137 Member Posts: 2
    I've just found this website and am in the very same boat with the rest of you!!! My 2002 Altima started having problems a couple of years ago, they performed all the recalls on it and it's been constant problems for the last year. They replaced the catalytic converter last April, then in Nov. we were astounded to learn that it's sucking oil at incredible rates. We are prepared to "dump it" as soon as possible, but it angers me to think that Nissan has produced such a horrible product. How can a car with 58,000 miles on it be ready for the trash??? Has anyone gotten ANY satisfaction from Nissan?
  • fbonerfboner Member Posts: 4
    You are under the 80kmi emissions warranty. Regardless of 4/6 cyl status, Nissan will replace your engine for you under this warranty. In my case, I got new cats and oxygen sensors too.

    BEWARE.

    After the engine was replaced, I suddenly needed a new $800 MAF (mass airflow sensor) to cure stumbling problems on accelerations and a lot of unburnt gas smell on cold startups. I actually think the failed MAF was the root cause of all of this, as the excess unburnt fuel would be dealt with primarly by the pre-cats which would lead to premature breakdown (dealership told me the method of failure of the catalytic material is micro-detonations in the honeycomb structure...well blobs of fuel spraying out with hot exhaust gases ought to qualify).

    My biggest beef is that no warning light ever came on, not for the low oil, not for the failed MAF and O2 sensors, not for the failed pre-cats.

    As I stated in my post (Nov 23?) above I did get full satisfaction in terms of an engine replacment...though I only had 45kmi on it.
  • gp0137gp0137 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply. We, like you, got no warning light of the low oil- it just failed to start and had no oil in it! We called the local dealership and amazingly, they had no knowledge of any other Altimas with these problems!! We've decided at this point that we're not going to pursue this any further, but will dump it and be finished with this car! It's just no longer worth the headaches, and will definitely not buy another Nissan product!
    Again, thanks
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You are exactly right with your attitude about this. Nissan is in a state of denial over this cataylic converter issue and excessive engine oil use issue, they just don't care about their customers if the car goes over the warranty period, I have been battling this problem with my daughters 2002 Altima 2.5S, had over 90K miles when the problem started, Nissan was no help, I had to take the engine apart and fix it myself. My first messege I think was # 75 and then many more after that.
    Good Luck
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • imkourtneyimkourtney Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Nissan Altima and my car was having the same problem and drove me crazy. When I went and had it checked they said it was the line pressure sylanoid that was causing my car to have a hard shift.
  • unitedcigarunitedcigar Member Posts: 2
    There is some fantastic information here, I really appreciate all of the work E.D. and others have put in! My mechanical knowledge is very limited, so I've tried to absorb what I've seen here and apply it to my situation.

    I have some conflicting information on my particular Altima, so I thought I would request advice. My 2002 2.5 had the SES light on a couple of months ago, so I took it to my local dealer and it was just a gas cap/tank issue (replaced the cap, and repainted inside the tank door.) They suggested not trying to top-up on fillups (stop when the nozzle first stops) to avoid reoccurrence.

    This month, my SES light came on again. Not worried, it went away after a fill up. A week later, it was on again and wouldn't go off. I took it to the dealership after another week (this last Friday), and was shocked to hear that the failure was P0420, that the precat was breaking apart/missing, the oil was low, the new noise I was hearing was the timing chain, and the engine would have to be replaced!!! With a couple of extra things like a new clutch, estimated cost for engine assembly, etc. $5900 CDN plus tax. So, I spent all weekend doing research on the problem, expecting that I would have to scrape around to get another used car. I'm trying to move overseas sometime this year - this would really hurt because I will want to get rid of it just before I go in 6-8 months and need it for work until then. I paid off the car a few years ago and have had it serviced regularly at Nissan.

    They did regular service, and the noise I had heard was gone. IMO, it was likely the low oil and the engine complaining. I took the car in today to a local mechanic, and gave them the story. They would perform a diagnostic for a second opinion, and could probably find me a new engine somewhat cheaper than the dealer (though still not super cheap). Their results - they said the cat was plugged, but they didn't think it blew into the engine! Spark plugs reasonably clean. Compression tests were ok (150's on all), and they noticed no noises from the timing chain or otherwise. No blue in the exhaust. Their suggestion was to replace the cat and flush the engine to clean out any residue.

    :confuse: Any suggestions on which way to go?
  • dmforcedmforce Member Posts: 4
    We just had our '02 Altima repaired for the SES light. Replaced precat for $1200 at Nissan repair (was hoping to recoupe some cost from Nissan USA) After 7 miles of driving, the light came on again. New code = oxygen sensor(S). Nissan repair center only informed us of one - $270 for what we found out was a $60 sensor and wanted $200 more to install then $75 to shut off the light. We paid for the first sensor and walked away to install ourselves. Bought the 2nd sensor from auto store and my husband replaced both. I would recommend replacing the precat with your own auto mechanic (NIssan dealership repair charges are outrageous) and hope for the best. Monitor oil levels (weekly) and hope it doesn't start to burn through oil. If our car does start to burn oil (which means engine failure from precat issue), we will trade it immediately and take our losses. Also - Nissan USA denied any claims for recouping repair costs.
  • unitedcigarunitedcigar Member Posts: 2
    I'm going with option #2 (replacing the precat and the engine flush).
    I'll post again after I see how it goes.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I have not been back to this forum in a while, so I just saw your messages, sorry to hear your troubles, but many other people are having the same issues with the Altima. I suggest to anyone who has an Altima 2.5 to be sure to read all the messeges in this forum starting from #1 to the very end, they are all important. My first messege in this forum was #75. Please tell anyone you know that has an Altima 2,5 about this forum, and warn them of the possible problem that they may face. It is MUCH better to address this problem, BEFORE you need to buy a new engine.

    Here is what I have to say for you, your option #2 is probably the best thing for you to do at this time, but may not be the cheapest though. I don't know what State you live in and what the emission testing requirements are required there, but if allowable, you can take off the Precat and hollow it out, instead of buying a new one. That could save you hundreds of dollars, and you could do it yourself, even without having to remove it from the car. Before you start, run the engine and check to see if you have good exhaust flow out the tailpipes, if not you might have a restriction in the 2nd Cat to check for. Let the car cool down, then jack up the car safely on sturdy safety stands, and get under the car and separate the exhaust pipe from the bottom of the Precat, remove both of the oxygen sensors so that they won't get damaged (buy a special oxygen sensor socket for this), then through the bottom opening of the Precat, you can use some metal rods or screwdrivers to break the material inside the Precat apart and let the materal fall out the bottom opening. You might need to fabricate a metal wire hook to pull some parts out, like parts of the metal screens, and you can start the engine for 2 seconds to blow out loose pieces. Once it is hollowed out, reinstall the upper oxygen sensor, and you would have to put the $5 O2 cheater on the 2nd oxygen sensor to keep the SES light from coming on. Also, while the exhaust pipe is loose, it is a good time to check the second Cat that is under the car before the muffler to be sure that it is not restricted. In my case, the stuff from inside the Precat all came loose, blew down the exhaust pipe and plugged up the second CAT. That is why I had to hollow out both the Precat and the 2nd Cat.
    See message #256, that I have copied for you below.

    #265 of 356 Re: How do you avoid this? [lnesomdove] by electricdesign Apr 27, 2008 (7:58 am)
    Replying to: lnesomdove (Apr 25, 2008 5:46 am)

    "what do you do to insure that yours isn't one of those 5% if you choose to keep this car? "

    First, you have to be sure that the engine is not too far damaged, and using too much oil. Once it is using more than a quart per 1000 miles, it is probably too late. My daughters 2002 Altima was using about 1 quart in 1500 miles when I worked on it in Decenber 2007. The first Cat blew itself clean out and the second Cat was plugged up. Now it is running fine with both Cats hollowed out and a new head gasket. I estimate that it is now using 1 quart of oil in about 2500 to 3000 miles. We don't have an emissions inspection here in Florida, so we can run it that way. To keep the "Sevice Engine Soon" light from staying on, I put the "$5 02 Cheater", mentioned in previous posts, on the second oxygen sensor, and it works fine, keeps the light off. That's the way to keep the engine running fine, if yours is not too far gone.
    If the engine is too far gone & using too much oil, nothing will fix it but a new engine.
    If you start to get the problem and the engine is not too far gone, and you live in an emissions testing state, you would need to put on a new Precat/Exhaust manifold at the very first sign of the Cat going bad, before the engine is damaged. A new Cat will NOT fix a damaged engine.
    Owners and buyers Beware, Check that CAT at every service and check the oil level often, at least once a week. This is a known problem, so look out for it!
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • aquatect1951aquatect1951 Member Posts: 1
    To electric design and any other forum techies ,

    I have an '05 Altima S, w/ I4 engine and 64K miles, with no know problems mentioned thru these posts YET, except cold heat air temp at idle {which I will address w/ burping technique in service bulletin see NTB02-047b (2002-2003 Altima: Poor Heater Performance) and possible thermostat replacement's }.

    My state presently has no emissions testing done and I wish to gutt the precat and leave the 2nd -main cat converter in place. Needless to say, neither Nissan dealers, nor most repair shops will do this work for me. I will be trying to find some competent young neighborhood shadetree mechanic to help me with this extra-legal workaround. My question relates to the removal of Pre-CAT, and resolution of the required difference between the voltages of the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. Several sources and discussion groups talk of an aftermarket replacement/ and modified O2 sensor, cheater plug to augment the difference, lengthened wiring to aid in the voltage diff., etc..This is the same motor/pre-cat setup as the Nissan Sentra, and here is a link to a discussion in one of their forums elsewhere on the web regarding cheaters, and outright removal with an aftermarket header replacement, albeit the header solution is more work:

    http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=135241

    Does anyone know of a specific source/ supplier of these O2 sensor parts and the custom tool for removal that electric design used in his engine work (so laboriously photographed and posted on Snapfish.

    Thanks for any help,

    aquatect1951.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Here are your answers:

    The O2 sensor socket is available at any auto parts store, it is a thick deep socket with a long slot cut lengthwise. The socket slips over the O2 sensor and the wires slide up the slot as the socket slides onto the O2 sensor. The wires stay connected to the O2 sensor and are not damaged as you loosen the sensor. Work carefully, as the sensors can sometimes be very tight to break loose.

    The O2 cheater is very cheap, $5 or less. Buy two of the correct size spark plug non foulers, drill one of them out with a 1/2 inch drill bit, screw them together, put them in the O2 sensor hole and then screw in the sensor. It is simple and it worked for me. I have not got the bad cat code since then (over a year now). Below I have attached the link to the site that gives complete instructions:

    http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-how-tos-installations/208195-5-o2-cheater-non-f- - ouler-how.html

    Note: The only physical difference that the O2 cheater makes is that the O2 sensor sticks out about an inch and a half farther.

    Good luck
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • gino45gino45 Member Posts: 52
    I am considering buying a used 2007 Altima SL 2.5L but am concerned about the reliability of this model. I currently have a 1998 SE and am quite please with it, but have read the horror stories on this site regarding engines that burn oil in the 3rd generation Altima. Are the 07 engines and catalytic converters ok, or are they experiencing the same issues as with the older Altima (2003-2006) cars?
  • mccarthym4mccarthym4 Member Posts: 1
    have recently just started having problems with my Nissan. I have a 2003 altima SE. I just took my car in yesterday to Nissan for a routine oil change. I travel back and forth from north to south jersey every week and needed it even though i just had it done a month and half ago. There had been loud banging noises coming from the front right side of my car and i wanted them to look at it. They called me later in the day to tell me that my engine has to be replaced! A not even 6 year old car has to have an engine replacement, and to top it all off, my warranty might not cover it. The cost is over $5000.I mean i am a college student and don't know much about cars but everyone in my household-mother,brothers,sisters- all have older cars than i do, all in 1990's and they have yet to even consider an engine replacement! I bought this car not even 2 years ago and i have had nothing but problems with it. The Nissan dealer claimed that my engine has been burning oil so fast that there was nothing there when they looked to do the oil change. There had been so much burning and for so long, that it completely ruined the engine and i needed a replacement.
    I have read on this that there are so many people out there that have had this same problem, with Nissan rarely paying for this misfortune. My car has about 85,000 miles on it, all highway, so aren't engines supposed to last well over that mileage?? Why hasn't Nissan done anything concerning this year and model car that seems to have a recurring problem?
    My advise to anyone thinking about buying an altima, DON'T. they are nothing but hassle and only prove to not last. Im still paying off my car.I owe 9000, its only worth 6500 right now, and i have to put 5000 into it for a new engine. somehow, that to me doesn't seem right.
  • mainer70mainer70 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2002 Altima 2.5 4 cylinder. I've owned it since March 2002. I just hit approx 86,000 miles. I took my car in to the dealership for a normal oil change & walked out needing a new engine. I had a knocking noice that happened when I would accelerate but would stop once I hit a cruising speed. It started happening about a week before I was able to get it in. They checked it out & found that the engine was burning oil. I had an oil change in December & the oil had dropped 3/4 in less than 3 months. I've never had any indicator lights come on. I've taken my car to the dealership since I purchased the car so they have all my records. The service dept put in a "goodwill" request to Nissan for them to pay but it was denied. Even the service guy knows it's a Nissan engine problem, but they had to follow the protocol. I'll be getting out of this for $500. Nissan IS kicking in some (how much I don't know) & the dealership is kicking in. It helped that all the maintenance is done there & they have all my records. It hasn't been finalized yet so I don't know if it will be a totally new engine or a rebuilt engine. That will have to be discussed as well as what kind a warranty I'll have on this new engine. Until I get this done I have to check the oil level & add oil as needed. I travel at least 400 miles per week so I'll be doing this once a week, if not more, until I can get this taken care of.

    After reading the comments here, I don't think I should have to pay anything, but I guess $500 is better than other people have made out.
  • meyrick007meyrick007 Member Posts: 23
    I hope someone files a class action lawsuit for the CATALYTIC CONVERTER that Nissan won't do a recall on. It is just RIDICULOUS!
  • verbalkint614verbalkint614 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem recently too, I am still paying the loan and couldn't believe I would have this problem after 58,000 Miles.I thought this car was Japanese!! I have taken it to several mechanics and they all told me that I needed to replace the engine, I was thinking about going to Nissan and getting a diagnostic test, because it's still not evident on what the problem is all I know is im hearing my engine from the right side of the car and it sounds like I have a diesel car, I have been quoted 2500cdn to have a used engine put in and the warranty will toss me 1000$ so ill have to pay 1500$ from my pocket. I dont know if I should try and buy a brand new engine or just let it go as it might be a lemon and suck me for more. Any suggestions from anyone? I bought this car used only 3 months ago for 9000 and have 6000 to pay on it.
  • yelldogyelldog Member Posts: 3
    Yesterday, I went to get an inspection for my 2002 altima 2.5. I have had this service engine light on for a couple of days but it normally comes on and goes away. The inspector informed me that the service engine code was P0420 - Catalyst Efficienty. I asked him what that meant and he informed me that something was wrong with your catalytic converter. I immediately got a sick feeling. February 29, 2008, I had the same part replaced by the dealership. I went home and called the dealership and informed him that after one year and 10 days, my catalytic converter was going bad. The dealership informed me that it was out of warranty. That cost me $800.00. He had the nerve to inform me to bring it back in for another $800.00 replacement. This is on top of that I had to replace the engine in June 2008. I truly hate this car. I have always driven Honda's and will never purchase a Nissan again.
  • yelldogyelldog Member Posts: 3
    I posted #365. I called the dealership again and spoke with the Service Manager. A nice guy that suggested that I contact the Nissan Consumer Department. I contacted them and informed them that I bought the cat converter on Feb 29, 2008 and found out that it is going bad on March 10, 2009. The two representatives that I spoke to were very cool and made me believe that they had a heart and were going to assist me with this problem. I took it to the dealership to get it inspected due to protocal. It was a $100.00 but the Service Manager waived the cost, thank goodness. It confirmed it was a cat problem and that it must have just been a bad part. I contacted Nissan Consumer and informed them that it was validated by the Service Manager. The representative informed me that I had a great case that most likely, Nissan woud pay for the converter. The next day, she contacted me and told me that she went as high as she could and NISSAN decided to not help me AT ALL. I spoke to her supervisor and he was worthless. I will never ever buy a Nissan vehicle again. My car is back in the shop b/c when the first cat went out, it was drastic and the car completely shutdown. I want to get rid of it bad but it is paid for and another $1K is still less than a car note.
  • implementallimplementall Member Posts: 4
    I purchased my 2007 Altima in July 2007. Recently, I heard an unusual noise and took the car to the dealership. They told me that I needed a new transmission. The transmission bearrings had worn out. How can this be on a recently new vehicle.

    I have 130 miles round trip commute to work. Therefore, I have put a lot of miles on my car. I have 66,000 miles when I drove it to the dealership. The dealership said to call Nissan1. The vehicle was over warranty and I do not have extended warranty.

    I called Nissan1, and they basically said no to my case. No assistance. It's my responsiblity. I'm totally upset over this poor service and quality of this product. I've had two Nissans prior to 2002 and the transmissions lasted over 200,000 miles.

    I returned to the dealership and spoke with the Service Manager. My dissatisfaction on how this problem is being handled. He listened and I'm waiting for a response.

    1) What's wrong with Nissan?
    2) They do not make quality products anymore - what can be done to change this type of business practices?
    3) Should they not take responsiblity for their poor product?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Response to #369:
    1) What's wrong with Nissan?
    They don't care about their products or customers after the warranty expires - therefore don't buy their products.

    2) They do not make quality products anymore - what can be done to change this type of business practices?
    They don't care about their products or customers after the warranty expires - therefore don't buy their products.

    3) Should they not take responsiblity for their poor product?
    They don't care about their products or customers after the warranty expires - therefore don't buy their products.

    Spread the word.
  • gooddeal2gooddeal2 Member Posts: 750
    Spread the word.
    :sick:
  • pax4pax4 Member Posts: 9
    I will be leasing an 09 Altima for 39 months and 15,000. miles per year The dealer wants over $600 for The Nissans Security+Plus warranty. Question..... is this worth purchasing? I'll be going maybe three months with "no" warranty? Can warranties be purchased during the life of the lease? Can you shop arround for the same warranty at a cheaper price? Any advise would be apprecated.Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Unless I'm missing something this "lease" sounds like a really REALLY bad deal. Can you specify please what model, engine and what options? I think you need to go back and do some homework on leasing. $600 X 39 = $23,400.

    The most expensive Altima I can find has an MSRP of $25000 with at least $1500 in rebate money, so you could buy this car in about 3 years with the payments you are going to make just leasing it and turning it back in while owning nothing!!
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