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Dodge Dakota Climate Control

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Comments

  • dleahydleahy Member Posts: 7
    My 98 too. Not always 10 minutes, but shuts down the cold and just blows ambient air. Did you figure the fix yet? Thanks!!!
  • captcrunchcaptcrunch Member Posts: 11
    On my 2K 4.7 Quad the a/c may function perfectly for hours/miles then suddenly go AWOL for 10-15 minutes. I've tried to find patterns of conditions that trigger it but never came up with a solid explanation. As a last resort I wired a small 12v bulb to the plus side of the a/c clutch and put it just in front of the windshield so I could know when the system is supplying voltage to engage the clutch. That revealed that that the compressor was not turning even though all the sensors, relays, binary brain, etc under the hood were telling it to run. Does it sound to the brain trust here that the most reasonable explanation is a an intermittent - maybe temperature related - open in the a/c clutch magnetic coil? Is that the first thing to replace?
  • ejwellsejwells Member Posts: 1
    Me too. The AC on my 98 may work for 5, 10 or 15 minutes....only The Shadow knows. I am anxious to hear what others suggest. I have noticed two things - 1) Revving the engine 2-3 times will often cause the AC to kick back in; and 2) The compressor is not turning when the AC is not working, but you can start it by manually spinning the clutch (careful!).

    Thanks!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Starting the AC compressor takes a LOT of torque. I beleive that the clutch plates (friction surfaces) on the AC clutch
    may get warn out with use. Also, any oil has been spilled onto these friction-surfaces can reduce their effectiveness too.

    I beleive the friction plates on the AC clutch are replacable... this may restore like-new performance . I beleive NAPA has the AC clutch for under $100.

    Another check you can do is to pull the connector off of the AC-clutch and use an ohmmeter.... if it has infinate resistance, then the coil is bad.
  • ironcity1ironcity1 Member Posts: 4
    Today i went to use the A/C and it would only kick on when the fan was on High. Did some checking and the fan does not work at all only on the High setting. Do i need to replace the whole climate control unit or not to fix this.
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    Your problem is that the variable resistor needs to be replaced. It is behind the glove box and costs around $20 from the dealer. It is an easy do it yourself job. You might want to do a search on this forum as this has come up very frequently in the past.
  • dakota968dakota968 Member Posts: 9
    The resistor is the most likely (and cheapest/easiest) cause. By your user name I'm assuming you're in Pittsburgh (I am as well). I picked up a new resistor at West Liberty Dodge for around $13. It's a newer and better designed unit and takes about 5 minutes to replace. It's located under the glove box. 2 screws, 5 minutes, and $13 bucks. It's worth a shot.
  • ironcity1ironcity1 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for all your help. I grew up there moved away in 1985. Live in MD now. Went to dealer on the way home from work pick up the part for $21.00 and works great now. Thanks again for all your help.
  • moretinmoretin Member Posts: 5
    First time user. When the heater or A/C is on and blowing, it only comes through at the windshield, no matter what button I push. I was able to go under the dash and find a box that when I put my hand inside and pushed on a door to open, then the air come through the cab. When I released the door it shut and the air went back to the windshield. Thanks for any help.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    That is the blend door, and yours is malfunctioning. Dodge dealers are used to this repair.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • moretinmoretin Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info. I went there before I posted this message and he told me that the heater box needed to replace. I couldn't find anything about a heater box so I tried Edmunds. Thanks again.
  • cpklutzcpklutz Member Posts: 2
    How difficult is the switch on the compresser to replace? I have done everything else I can think of on my '92 4x4 3.9l, but cannot get the unit to run consistently.
    Everything includes: Retrofit (r134),low pressure switch, O rings, and curcuit breaker.
  • dleahydleahy Member Posts: 7
    Try replacing the AC clutch relay located in your fuse panel on the driver's side fender well on top. Spent hundreds with lame dealers and fixed my air for about $10 with a plug in part. Good luck!!
  • dleahydleahy Member Posts: 7
    My A/C problem turned out to be the clutch relay in the fuse box. $10 and presto. Full time air. Hope this helps!
  • dleahydleahy Member Posts: 7
    My A/C is now full time, but will shift from the dash vents to the floor vents when under acceleration. I know I've seen something on here about that before, but I can't seem to find it now. Anybody know why it does that? THANKS!! :confuse:
  • cpklutzcpklutz Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info on the relay, sadly, I have already tried that solution as well as doing a retrofit and changing the low pressure switch. I will be spending a majority of this weekend tracing the electrical circuit as the repair manuel does not show the diagram for the A/C. Oh, I have also changed the circuit breaker located in the fuse block under the dash. The last switch I know of is the compresser. :(
  • boomer632boomer632 Member Posts: 1
    Dusty,

    I received the wiring kit from Dodge for my resistor card plug. Can you tell me which gauge wires go into which hole in the new plug. My new wires are green and purple with the green being the larger of the two. The old plug appears to have only one small wire (brown). My email is BOOMER632@HOTMAIL.COM.

    Thanks...
    Ken
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    Use the large wires. The current draw is to great for the small ones.
  • wwizardonewwizardone Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 dakota 4X4 with 3.9l. I have replaced the heater resistor 5 times and am currently getting ready to do it again as winter is coming and it a pain to scrape the inside of the windows in the morning. Also the last time i replaced it i also replaced the connector and the wires running to it. My question is there a perment fix or do i have to sell it and get something with a relable heater.lol Any help would be great.

    Thanks.....
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My guess is the issue is not the resistor since they've gone to a new type which is more reliable.

    I think you'll find that the pins on the resistor block are overheating due to a resistance at the pin connection itself. If you've replaced the connector using the kit (PN #5017124-AA) you neede to be cognizant that two of the larger gauge wires needed to be used at pins 1 and 2. These correspond to the two 12 gauge wires on the motor side. Also, most people use wire crimps instead of soldering like the kit instructions suggest. I hate to say this, but they need to be solder to ensure a zero resistance loss at the connection.

    There is a problem with the kit, however, and I've notified Chrysler that the actual wire size in pins 1 & 2 of the motor connector are 12 gauge, but the kit only contains 14 and 16 gauge wires. Chrysler has another kit for the B-series vans that contain 12 gauge wires, but its not the one thet call out for the Dakota.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • wwizardonewwizardone Member Posts: 3
    hi thanks for the reply.

    i have finally got the new blower resistor however when i tried to replace the old one it had melted in the connector. After much prying i managed to separate the 2. i noticed that pins 2 and 3 on the resistor had melted a bit. I removed the melted plastic from the inside of the connector and tried the old resistor and the blower worked on all settings. So as i see it something is supplying too much voltage to those pins and causing it to melt and break the connection. As to the wires that go to the connector i have already replaced them with a heavier gauge wire that matches the wires coming from the blower motor. I was wondering if u had any ideas what would be causing the higher voltage to melt the plastic. thanks....
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    It is the amperage not the voltage causing things to melt. Seems to be such a common problem that I suspect a design flaw. Undersize wires can cause or contribute to the problem. Also if the connector pins will not adequately handle the amp draw that can cause or contribute to the problem. I use the correct crimper for the terminals and also solder them. If you don't have the correct crimper they may not make a good connection resulting in extra resistance which will create more heat. So I suggest soldering however you crimp.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I agree with everything terrys2 said above. (I have a degree in electronics) Soldering is the ONLY way to guarantee long-lasting electrical repair. (Crimps are for whimps. LOL)

    Within a week of purchasing my Dakota brand-new. I pulled off EVERY ground connection I could find under the hood and SOLDERD the wire to the sta-kon. I also filed the paint from under the connection to get the very best ground-connection.

    Whatever you do - DO NOT reuse that old connector. The overheating has changed the spring-rate on the internal connectors and also coated them with non-conductive copper-oxide.

    A new connector plugged into shiny-clean resistor-connector will resolve your problem. If you REALLY want a long-lasting repair.... stop by RadioShack and pick up deoxIT
  • wwizardonewwizardone Member Posts: 3
    Those r good ideas. I have already put in a new connector the last time this happened and new wires that came with the kit. which r a heavier guage wire than what was on the truck org. I have soldered all the wires when i installed them. But the problem still occurs so i am left to believe that there is a higher amp than should be but not sure what is causing it. thank you.........
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    OK - then there is only a couple other reasons you are encountering burned-up resistors - follow me for a moment...

    Lets review... the resistors are mounted INSIDE the air-plenum where the fan is supposed to be constantly blowing air over it (keeping it cool) Note that there is no way to turn OFF the fan completely per federal law of constant airflow thru all automobiles.

    If there is an obstruction in the air-plenum, then the reduced airflow may cause the resistors to overheat.

    Also - If the blower motor itself has a problem (like the bearings starting to get stiff) then the blower motor will draw more current AND blow less air. These 2 things added together can easilly burn out the resistors.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    It is possible that the blower motor is drawing too much current.

    If you used the Chrysler kit, the wires should be orange. Are any of the wires indicating that the insulation is overheating, i.e: turning dark brown?

    If so, which pins?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • moquelvogmoquelvog Member Posts: 21
    I am having a problem getting my 97 Dakota to get up to a normal running temp when it's cold out. Because of this, I can't get any hot air out of my heater. (I think... heater runs fine when temp gets above 140 or so.) But I can't get the engine to run hotter than the 130 the gauge sits on. I have tried warming the truck for 10-15 mins, and it works, but as soon as I get on the road, temp goes down and so does my heater. Any suggestions?

    Omen
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    My experience is that this type problem is usually resolved by replacing the thermostat but be sure you get the right one.
  • 98dakota98dakota Member Posts: 1
    1998 dakota 4cyl
    does anyone know where i can find a diagram of the vacuum system? and what the pressures are ? mostly interested in the damper under the dash mine wont switch from the defroster.
  • cdhynsoncdhynson Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2001 Dakota Quad Cab and it has started allowing air to come through the air vents when the truck is moving. Although the fan switch is set to off, air still flows through the vents as the truck is traveling. I believe the recirculation door is a fault but I don't know how to access the door. I can hear the door flap open and close everytime we open and close the trucks doors. Called the local dealer and the qoute for repairing the door was 800. Don't have the money and believe I could fix it myself if I knew how to access the door. Any help in how to access the recirculation door would be great
  • simondssimonds Member Posts: 2
    just bought a 97 dakota 3.9 L. The issue is strange to me, when i open the door or set the remote lock, the lights on the climate control knobs come on instead of the dome light. I am also in the middle of troubleshooting the blower motor, the moter is fine (jumped from battery) so the issue is in the climate control knobs or the resistor block. didn't know if the lighting issue and the blower moter not getting power were related?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    You will have to remove the Heater Housing. Not a simple or easy job.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    You didn't state what the problem/symptom was with the blower motor, however, if the issue is one or more of the fan speed positions (usually the high position) is not working, the Blower Motor Resistor is probably the culprit.

    Don't have any suggestions regarding the lights, however one thing that is common to both is the Central Timer Module.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • taropattaropat Member Posts: 2
    2001 dodge dakota put in new heater blower and resistor card so now when i use remote starter it works just fine but once i put in gear i have no heat
  • LorneQueLorneQue Member Posts: 3
    I live in Saskatchewan at present it is -40, The heater on my 2003 Dodge Dakata QUIT working which is expected in this cold weather, I took it apart and checked all fuses, there all working, I then pulled the plastic shroud off, and unplugged the wiringplugin to the main blower switch, and test lighted it and found there is no power at the main wire or anywhere in the blower plugin switch. Is there any other places to confirm power source, .................Lorne
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Is the AC/Heater blower motor operating?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My apologies, but I'm having some nomenclature problems with your symptom description, so I'm going to be very detailed in my response.

    With respect to vehicle ground (frame & body), which is negative, power is delivered to the Heater Blower Motor at pin 1. DC power gets to the A/C-Heater Control Switches via the Blower Motor Resistor at pin 2. The circuit is as follows:

    1. Fuse #13 (40 ampere) in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) located under the hood next to the battery

    GOES TO

    2. Ignition Switch pin 1, then comes out pin 2 (run position)

    GOES TO

    3. Heater Blower Motor pin 1. DC power goes through the motor at pin 2.

    GOES TO

    4. Blower Motor Resistor Block at pin 2 (DC in). The resistor is located next to the Heater Blower Motor. The black blower motor wires will go to it. DC power goes through the three (3) resistors (pins 3, 4, & 5), plus passes through without resistance at pin 1 of the resistor block.

    GOES TO

    5. The A/C-Heater Control Switch

    Pin 1 resistor block - to - pin 10 of the heater control switch (high position)

    Pin 3 resistor block - to - pin 3 of the heater control switch (not so high position)

    Pin 4 resistor block - to - pin 7 heater control switch (medium position)

    Pin 5 resistor block - to - pin 2 heater control switch (low position)

    Pin 8 of the Heater Control Switch is 12 VDC for the panel illumination lamps.

    Pin 5 of the Heater Control Switch goes to ground.

    The most common cause of blower failure on Dakotas of your vintage is the resistor block, a very common problem. I would recommend removing the resistor block, which is mounted to AC/Heater box next to the blower by two screws. I suspect you will observe signs of pins and wires overheating at the connector. This will need to be repaired. The resistor is part number 5174618-AA and a connector repair kit is (was) 5017124-AA. If the resistor displays signs of overheating, you'll probably need both.

    Stay warm up there in Alaska!

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • LorneQueLorneQue Member Posts: 3
    THANK YOU MUCHLY FOR THE DETAILED INFORMATION ON WHAT THE PROBLEM IS, i'M OLD SCHOOL SO WHEN I VENTURE TO WHERE MY KNOWLEDGE NO LONGER CAN SLOVE THE PROBLEM ITS NICE TO HAVE A FORUM LIKE THIS .................Lorne
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Lorne,

    I don't know why I thought you were in Alaska, but good luck.

    Regards,
    dusty
  • taropattaropat Member Posts: 2
  • LorneQueLorneQue Member Posts: 3
    Just thought I would ask the question where is the resistor located on the 2003 dodge dakota for the blower motor, aren't they usually located near the motor itself???............Lorne
  • IndyBobcatIndyBobcat Member Posts: 2
    Were you able to find where the mode door actuator was? I am having a similar issue with my 98 Dakota. Read some threads saying the heater core was clogged but I get hot air out the defrost but no matter where I turn the knob, it only blows out the defrost.
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    I believe the resistor should be right by the blower motor.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Blower resistor on ALL cars is mounted in the air-plenum. Since the resistors run close to red-hot while in operation, they need the airfow of the fan to keep them cooled down.
  • carlking2carlking2 Member Posts: 1
    I have like most had trouble with the Fan speed resistor on my dakota having had it replaced twice. Several months ago the blower motor began to intermitienly quit running. NO it is not stuck on high speed so I tend to rule out the resistor. It would work sometimes and then quit to begin blowing just driving down the road. My question is do you think it may be the blower motor or the harness?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You asked --> My question is do you think it may be the blower motor or the harness?

    Without actually using a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) to take measurements, the answer to your question is "perhaps".

    It could be the motor, harness, resistor or a mouse stuck in the fanblades (Yes, I have seen it happen!).... Without actually troubleshooting the problem, it could be anything.
  • pfunk2pfunk2 Member Posts: 1
    I need to replace the heater resistor in my 2001 Dakota. Is it hard to get at? Please advise on how to procede.
  • moretinmoretin Member Posts: 5
    Hi
    I had mine replaced at a local garage for $47.00. One half hour labor and a $12.00 part (resistor) and I have a 1993 Dodge Dakota. It's worth not having this probleml the middle of winter.
  • tommy97tommy97 Member Posts: 17
    I have a '97 V6 3.9L (2WD).

    I need to check the pressure and possibly add. I understand this is to be done w/ engine running and AC set to MAX. I also understand that this is to be done on the low pressure (liquid?) side.

    I found 2 ports w/ black plastic cap:
    one near the compressor itself
    one directly above the inlet tube leading to the air filter

    Which one is the port I need to use (or are they essentially on the same circuit) ?

    I understand that the capacity for R134A on this model is 32oz.

    Any help is appreciated.
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    The high pressure fitting is on the small diameter pipe and the low pressure fitting is on the larger diameter pipe. This is true for most all vehicles. However if you get a guage and hose for putting freon in, the fitting should only fit the low pressure fitting. You always put freon into the low pressure side unless you want to blow up the can. YIPES!!

    The cheap fill kits at the auto store have the right fitting and the guage gives you the pressure range on the guage,

    If the freon will not go in or is going in very slow you can put the can in a pan of hot water to raise the pressure in the can and make the freon go in faster. Turn the valve off so the guage will show the pressure in the systen instead of the pressure in the can. And yes have the truck running with the AC & fan set on high/max.
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