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Dodge Dakota Climate Control

1246

Comments

  • tommy97tommy97 Member Posts: 17
    For Terrys2:

    Everything you said is pretty much what I know. The reason I described the ports and their location is because I'm seeing a bit of paradox here:

    You wrote:
    "the fitting should only fit the low pressure fitting"

    I just checked (as a "dry run") and noted that the fitting only fit on one of the 2 ports, as you said. But guess what? It was the one "directly above the inlet tube leading to the air filter" and that tube happens to be the smaller one! This being the case, one would think this is on the high-pressure side, which in not where one would typically add refrigerant.

    In terms of my location descriptions, can you (or anyone) confirm which port is "the one":

    * one near the compressor itself
    * one directly above the inlet tube leading to the air filter

    You'd pretty much have to know the '97 Dakota (or be able to look under the hood).

    I did, btw, confirm that the total charge is 32oz (2lb).
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    Maybe someone else here can confirm the fitting location specific to your vehicle. However if you have a fill kit it should only fit the low pressure side. Since your other fitting does not fit the fill hose I believe you must have the right fitting by the air filter. When you say leading to the air filter I assume you to mean near the air filter as the AC lines would never connect to the air filter.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    To determine which is the HIGH or LOW pressure side of the system... just look at the plumbing.

    The HIGH pressure side goes from the AC pump, to the condenser. (looks like radiator in front of vechicle) and into reciever/drier (looks like coke can) then into firewall

    The LOW pressure side comes from firewall, and into the AC pump.

    While charging, you should to have guages installed and take constant readings to determine operation and charge-level.

    This website has a quick overview.

    If you do not understand how AC system works... perhaps you should not be messen with it. :blush:
  • hotrod420hotrod420 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 1995 dodge dakota and i was warming it up one morning and the fan quit working when i turned on the wipers to clear the windshield i have checked the fuses and there all good..what is the problem
  • moretinmoretin Member Posts: 5
    The same thing happen to me with myh 1993 Dodge Dakota truck. It turned out to be blower motor resister, costing $12.oo, plus half hour labor.
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    I believe he said the blower would not work on any speed. Usually when the resistor goes out the fan will still run on high. If the fan will not run on any speed and the fuse is good I would check the fan switch first.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Terry, that's true unless the resistor got too hot and melted the plastic around the electrical connector body. Sometimes the melted plastic fills the terminal cavity in the connector. After it cools and the plastic has hardened, there is no longer a connection.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    Yes, I agree. And if that is the case you probably can't get the connector off of the resistor and you will have to buy a new connector with wires and splice it in.
  • hotrod420hotrod420 Member Posts: 3
    thanks for that imput i had a friend of mine thats a machanic check it for me and it was the switch
  • mogtelmogtel Member Posts: 3
    During the last cold snap, (15 degrees and below), at 1800 rpm and about 60 mph, I got an engine noise that sounded like a ringing or whizzing sound. My first thought was that it could be a bearing in the A/C compressor or idler pulley, or anternator. Can't hear it sitting still or revving the engine. I had "Chassis Ear" the I used to no avail. I've talked with other owners who have the same noise who indicate that the noise goes away in warmer weather. Any ideas out there. Thanks in advance. Charlie
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    I 'm glad I steered you in the right direction and that you found the problem.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have had occasion when my POWER STEERING PUMP would make a gear-meshing sound in colder weather. It turnd out that the fluid-level was a tad low and the pump would occasionaly suck air and make the noise.

    Not sure if this is what you are hearing or not...
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Just a thought, but you may have a loose exhaust system. Check the condition of the exhaust system clamps. In the Northeast, they have a tendency to rust away after a while and loosen up. Although this usually causes rattling noisdes over bumps and stuff, on mine I would occasionally hear a sound that I would label as "ringing."

    I've gotta say, the clamp Dodge uses is pretty robust. In fact, I was never able to find an aftermarket replacement that was anywhere near the size and heft of the original. The ones that AutoZone carry are way too whimpy.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • mogtelmogtel Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply,,,,,,I'd checked all that.Everything seems ok in that area.
    charlie
  • mogtelmogtel Member Posts: 3
    That looks ok...the sound is similar to a bearing going bad, but now that it's warming up a bid it seems to have disappeared for now. Thanks,
    charlie
  • dleahydleahy Member Posts: 7
    My 98 Dakota 3.9 V6 has a problem with stalling when the engine revs and quickly returns to idle. I have changed out the idle speed control module under the injector body and no change. Now that they have tried that and run out of answers, the mechanics are saying I need to go to the dealer and have the computer re-flashed. Sounds like bunk. Computer's only got one set of instructions and the problem is sporadic but getting more frequent. When I restart the truck it fires immediately, but sometimes runs and sometimes dies several times before it settles down. Any ideas? Thanks!! bigdinla1@msn.com
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Well, a number of things could cause this, but if you've checked everything else I'd suspect a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator.

    Have you cleaned and checked the Idle Speed Motor and pintle?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • ldogldog Member Posts: 3
    HI . my heater and air cond only put out at top of dash no face or feet . reading other blogs must be risistor ? but where is location? thank you LEONARD.
  • IndyBobcatIndyBobcat Member Posts: 2
    Leonard,

    I have the same issue with my 98 Dakota. Please keep me updated if you receive an answer to this. I am not even sure the A/C works at this point as it all blows out the defrost vent.

    Regards,

    Mark
    mgarback@ameritech.net
  • hotrod420hotrod420 Member Posts: 3
    the blower is located behind the glove box..i have heat just no blower and its a 95 dakota
  • jwyattjwyatt Member Posts: 10
    2K Dakota Slut Truck 4.7L Auto 4wd 168K miles I have an unusual blower problem with the heater/AC. It always seems to work when I first start the truck. If I stop after a while and then restart after a short while, the fan will not work at any speed. With the AC on, one can detect that the compressor is working, and cool air will come from the vents at speed. At highway speeds, the fan generally will come on after a while.

    I am unsure as to whether it is the resistor or if the blower motor is going out in light of the blower's starting after getting to highway speeds. Is the AC or ambient air cooling the resistor enough to restart, or is the highway speed and air induction coming through the vents giving the blower motor enough oomph to start again?

    Anyone have any ideas? Jim
  • ldogldog Member Posts: 3
    4/12/09 3:05 pm I just found out the resistor is located under hood . to get to it you have to remove wiper blades then remove cowl plenum cover/ panel from the cowl top. through crowl panel access hole two hex screws to blower motor resistor . I have the resistor but can't put in till tomorow .will let you know how this works. Leonard-ldog.
  • ldogldog Member Posts: 3
    replaced resistor but still not working , air and heat through defrost but nothing through face or feet . what can it be? HELP !!! ldog .
  • moretinmoretin Member Posts: 5
    Go to message 112 and 113, I think this will help you. I had the same problem. My truck was 1993 Dakota.
  • jfunstonjfunston Member Posts: 3
    We have a 2004 Dodge Dakota, and whenever we run the AC, the truck overheats very quickly. When the AC, or heater is running, the AC Compressor motor kicks on, and off, repeatedly. I don't know if this is normal or not. I can see it spin, and suddenly stop for 30-45 seconds, then start spinning again.
  • texdodgetexdodge Member Posts: 1
    Hello I have a 98 Dakota 4 Cyl. and I just repaired the A/C and now I am overheating at stop lights and in traffic. Any help would be appreciated. I haven't had the A/C running for about 9 years but I replaced the Evaporator and Condenser about 3 days ago. Maybe it is related? HELP? :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It is normal for the AC compressor clutch to kick in and out based on the measurements from the pressure-sensors within the AC system. If I recall correctly, when the LOW pressure sensor senses the pressure get too high, the AC clutch disenguages the compressor.

    In addition to the obvious AC settings, there are some "defrost" settings which also turn on the AC system. With this in mind, I almost NEVER put the selector in those positions to keep from loading the engine and consuming more fuel. I usually keep the selector in the "blow on the feet" setting just to have some air flowing thru the cab while NOT enguaging the AC.

    As for your engine overheating with the AC on... make CERTAIN that the electric fan is running ALL THE TIME while the AC is enguaged.
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    Running the AC generates heat which must be removed through the condenser and the radiator. If you have a new condenser it should be ok. Did you check the radiator/condenser area to be sure it is clear of bugs, leaves or anything else that can block the air flow? Id the factory fan shroud all there and in place? Does the fan run when the AC is on? If not check the fuse and the relay. Hot wire the fan to be sure it runs. Is the cooling system free of rust etc. that can clog the system? You can try back flushing the radiator with a garden hose. Or you can take the radiator to a shop the see if it is flowing correctly and not plugged up.
  • jfunstonjfunston Member Posts: 3
    Just wanted to confirm. The electric fan, which is located just behind the rad/condensor - should run at all times when the AC is on? It hasn't come on at all. I replaced the fuse, and relay (the old relay looked burned), but it still doesn't come on at all.
    As well, regarding the motor/clutch- it kicks on and off at least once a minute, or less- is that frequency normal?

    Any suggestions about the fan? I'm going to hotwire it to test the fan itself, see if it even works.

    Thanks,
    Justin

    2004 dodge dakota, v6
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    Yes the fan should come on when the control is set to AC or defrost. My guess is a bad fan if you have replaced the fuse & relay. Hot wiring will tell you if it works or not. If the fan works you may have a wiring problem.

    The compressor will cycle on & off depending on a number of variables. Get a thermometer with a 6" or so long probe and put it in the dash vent. Again there are variables but you should get somewhere between 35 and 50 degrees (set on recirc. or max AC) if the AC is working ok. If the temp is higher it might need freon. Your cycle frequency sounds ok.
  • jmiller0423jmiller0423 Member Posts: 1
    how did you resolve this vent problem? my blower only blows out of the defrost and floor. i have a 2002 dakota as well.. : )
  • dmiller1220dmiller1220 Member Posts: 1
    these messages do not tell you or show you where the control is for the vent flow. Mine is stuck on defrost and floor and will not change to vents. Is there no one who knows where this actually is ? Under the dash, what side, Under the hood ? What does it look like ? Is there a picture ?

    I do not want to take the dash out if it is not needed.

    MORE DETAILED INFORMATION PLEASE.
  • retired8retired8 Member Posts: 15
    I've read all 185 posts and didn't see my problem. Here goes: All controls work just fine. Air comes out of where it should, all 4 fan speeds work, air is hot and cold when it should be. The problem is just very gentle air flow. It's been this way since new. On high blower, it is the equivelent to low in any other car or truck. Fan makes plenty of noise, but if you put your hand in front of a vent, you can't feel the air unless you get within 7-8 inches of the vent. If you open a door, or roll a window down a couple of inches it increases air flow a little. Any ideas of things I could look into? Thank you.
  • dmeissnerdmeissner Member Posts: 1
    have a 98 dakota when the a/c is turned on it blows out the vents for a few seconds and then switches over to the defrost vent , anybody have any ideas
  • rcavrcav Member Posts: 1
    I have a 02 Dakota 5 speed and get a similar noise, if I depress the clutch a bit and release it the noise goes away for a while which leads me to think it has some thing to do with the throw out bearing. Like yours, only in very cold weather.
  • sdrunyansdrunyan Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my '05 Dakota. The air would blow feet and defrost together only. I discovered that there is an electric motor and lever system on the drivers side under the dash. I could hear the motor trying to move the lever but the airflow remained the same. I removed the motor (2 screws) and discovered 3 tabs that controlled the vent flaps that I could turn with my fingers. 2 of the tabs connect directly to a wheel with cut grooves in it and the 3rd tab connects to the grooved wheel with a long lever arm. The grooved wheel is turned by the electric motor to control which vents are open or closed.
  • divot4divot4 Member Posts: 1
    Hello All,
    I have a dakota that has an overheating problem only when I tow or haul hvy loads. I have flushed the coolant and checked the radiatot also. Tonite I pulled the plugs and it looks like I am getting some water in the cylinders, not much, about 2-4 quart ver 6-18 mo.'s. In addition the thing overheated two weeks ago and I noticed the electric fan doesn't come on. The only way it comes on is if I start the A/C, I have also replaced the fan clutch. Any suggestions, I have heard craked Head, bad head Gasket etc., this has gone on over 2 years. The first problem was when it was under no load and on loan to a friend. Since, it has done it when pulling a 14ft. aluminum boat. I am at my wits end, I will be pressure testing the system tomorrow, and have replace the cap already.????
  • jimmy247jimmy247 Member Posts: 1
    I recently took my truck to jiffy lube because I had no cold air coming from vents. he did diagnostic and said the level in tank was at 0 and he never came across that before. long story short, he filled tank with freon and it held pressure fine. the ac that cost me $150 to fill worked for about 4 days...now nothing. Fans are blowing, light to ac on dash is on, but no cold air....anyone have this issue?

    Could I have a line leaking? Again...the tank apparently held the pressure.

    Thanks
  • dleahydleahy Member Posts: 7
    You have a leak plain and simple. My own truck developed a leak in the O rings sealing the lines at one point and the freon leaked out too. You need to take your truck to someone who specializes in AC and they can use a freon "sniffer" to locate where the leak/leaks are. Until you fix the leak, you're just wasting freon and money. Jiffylube owes you your money back for failing to diagnose where the freon went and then selling you more. They clearly don't have a clue how to work on your truck. Anytime a system is down on freon, it went somewhere. Leak. Good luck.
  • dreampingdreamping Member Posts: 2
    On my 01 the control motor is right above the accelerator pedal just above the edge of the bottom of the dash. Turn on the ignition to accessory and then the blower to it's lowest position. Adjust the vent switch while laying on the floor and watch and listen. The motor is right there and it turns a 3.5 inch wheel. It operates three items that fit into three groves. The one on the outside/motor side has a plastic rod the goes straight up about 7 inches to the defrost door. In my case one of the 2 screws holding the motor on was loose and that 7 inch rod came out of it's groove on the wheel. Pull the 2 motor screws out using a 5/16 driver or socket (it's a tight spot and I had to use a swivel and extension in my face). DON'T PULL THAT 7" ROD OFF CAUSE IT COMES OFF REALLY EASILY as does the 3.5" wheel once the motor is off. Mine had factory grease on it so you can simply stick the knob on the end of your 7" rod back into the groove on the wheel and carefully push the motor back on with it's screws and tighten it down. It worked for me the first time but I took everything apart which made it difficult to get it all back together. I didn't remove any ducting or dash components and I have big hands.
  • dreampingdreamping Member Posts: 2
    REFER TO MESSAGE 193
  • texaslowcotexaslowco Member Posts: 1
    Yep, water on passenger floor big time. Wants to ream me some tube for realz, yo. Cant find the %^$#@! condensation drain tube anywhere in engine compartment. Anybody able to give directions to the hidden treasure?
  • alaskapilotalaskapilot Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 dakota 4x4 and the problem I am having is that the a/c compressor keeps running unless I turn the fan blower setting to off (there is no ac on/off button). I live in a cold part of the country, so when I have the temp control all the way to high heat and the selector turned all the way to the right to defrost, the compressor continues to run. Is it supposed to do that?
  • alaskapilotalaskapilot Member Posts: 2
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I think the AC compressor comes on automatically anytime the system is in defrost mode. In many vehicles, that will engage the AC compressor in order to dry out the air so as to more effectively defrosts the windows. I do not know if there is a low temperature cut off for that or not - one that will disable the AC compressor if the temperature is below a certain point.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Most "American-named" vehicles tend to turn on the AC compressor when in 'defrost' mode. Personally, I think it is the STUPIDEST design ever conceived. I much prefer to have a seperate AC button that lets me (the driver) control when the AC compressor is enguaged. They must think us Americans are idiots who do not know when to turn on the AC compressor.

    Here in Vermont, the winters are cold and dry, there is never any need to enguage the AC compressor when using defrost. Also, the AC compressor loads the engine and reduces MPG.

    With that said.... the 2000 Dakota has several settings which DO NOT enguage the AC compressor. With my 2000 Dak, I leave the knob set to "blow at floor" almost all year round. This DOES NOT enguage the AC compressor but DOES blow some air at the windshiled so it will defrost.
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    Yes there is a cut off point where below a certain temperature the Ac compressor will not come on. I prefer having a seprate AC button also. However many people do not know the windows defrost better with the AC on and with outside air. Also the compressor will last longer if it is operated at least once a month. Many people do not use Ac for long periods of time in colder climates, Havin the AC come on with defrost helps excercise the compressor when many people would not have it on.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I too would prefer a separate AC switch, completely independent of the other settings on the HVAC panel.

    With everything in the car being computer controlled nowadays, there is no reason that they couldn't program in a "run the compressor every 30 days" algorithm into the BCM, or whatever it is that controls the compressor.

    Just another example of having to put up with an inconvenience because of the general ignorance of most car owners.
  • david360david360 Member Posts: 2
    Had an intermittent problem with the blower on my heater not working. I knew the blower itself was fine, so I figured there was an open circuit somewhere. Sifted through a lot of comments online saying that it was most likely a bad/shorted resistor under the passenger side dash. Bought one for for a grand total of $12.10 and replaced it hoping to take the easy way out. I was crossing my fingers that my investment would solve the problem. It didn't. Then I went and looked at the contact pins on the old resistor. They looked fine. I saw no evidence of the connection getting hot.

    But anyway, to shorten this story. I can get the blower to work full blast pumping wonderful amounts of heat with one little thing I discovered by accident. If I just barely apply pressure to the key in the ignition (without actually turning enough to restart it), the blower comes on full blast and turns wonderfully. Should I assume there are some bad contacts in the ignition switch, or is my action creating a circuit that shouldn't be made under normal circumstances. I know this is a strange question, but any input would be appreciated.

    D.P.
  • jamoka3jamoka3 Member Posts: 9
    My vent control on my dash, only works on defrost and floor mode, If i turn it to face vents i get nothing? Nothing on max a/c either.
    Not sure why, any ideas?

    If i turn it to all windshield vent ( defrost ) it works, and split windshield and floor vent it works,it just does not work on the face vents.

    I popped off the dash cover and removed the controller assemble to check the vacuum line leading to the back and there all connected, non looked blocked or cracked, and nothing was kinked either.

    Does anyone have a HVAC vacuum line diagram, so I can see what color vac line controls the face vents?

    any help would be awesome! I'm not looking forward to taking this issue to the dealer, I know they will rip me off for this repair!
    thanks.

    I NEED SOME PICS! DIAGRAMS SOMETHING!!!
    __________________
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