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Dodge Dakota Climate Control

2456

Comments

  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    You don't. A special tool is required to disassemble the connector shell itself.

    The connector pin-end of the wires are simply inserted into the rear of the connector body. When fully seated they lock themselves into the shell.

    You will notice that the connector in the kit has a thin rubber membrane seal that wasn't on the original connector. This is a moisture shield to prevent premature corrosion of the wires at the terminal crimp. Believe it or not but moisture from inside the cab contributes corrosion of the pins.

    As to the blower being an issue, I'm not sure. I've worked on two of these and other people suggested that the blower motor was drawing too much current, thus taking out the blower resistor and/or overheating the wires. Maybe, but after being involved with two motor replacements I am convinced that the old motors were not the problem.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    Thanks Dusty. I thought the terminal was to big to go through the seal but it went in just fine. Would a little dielectric grease be a good idea to put in the terminals?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Yes, its probably a good idea. Problems start when moisture attacks the copper wire and subsequent resistance inserts a resistance in the electrical path. In the high position where the blower draws the most current, current begins to heat the wire which starts a spiral event.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The connector and wire repair kit that Chrysler's issued (5017124-AA) to repair burnt terminals and wires to the Blower Motor contains 14 gauge (orange) wire and 16 gauge (purple) wires.

    Unfortunately, the problem is the wires that carry current to the motor when in the maximum fan speed position. Basically when the blower is at its highest speed, there is no resistance inserted into the circuit. Switched resistance is used to reduce current flow for the slower fan speeds.

    The wire that comes from the motor (pin 2) and the ground wire for the fan circuit (pin 1) are both 12 gauge in the harness. When using the aforementioned repair kit the largest gauge wire supplied are five orange 14 gauge wires. This wire will not be enough to carry the current when the blower is in the highest output position.

    I've been using butt connectors to make this repair instead of the splices supplied with the kit. The Dodge techs are telling me that in addition to using the brass crimps in the kit, the wires should be soldered to ensure a absolute connection, and the service manual does indicate that this is the correct method of repair.

    I would argue that an adequately rated butt connector will be sufficient, however because of the design of these connectors it is not uncommon to end up with a minute amount of insertion loss due to resistance unless the butt connector connection is perfect. At lower currents it won't be a problem, but at 15 amperes .1 ohms of inserted resistance could generate some heat especially when the fan is operated in the high position for long periods.

    Since corrosion due to moisture seems to be the contributing factor, soldering these splices does make sense. However, I'm still firmly convinced that a short length of 14 gauge wire used in the high output circuit is still going to cause a problem long term.

    I'm going to contact the Tech Line in the next few days to discuss this issue some more.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    I did not like the connectors that came with the kit so I used non insulated butt connectors. I have the proper crimping tool for them so the connections are good. To be sure I always solder the connections. Since the 14 guage wire is so short compared to the length of 12 guage wire in the harness hopefully the additional resistance for about 4 inches of 14 guage will not be a problem. It is back together and working for now. Only time will tell. Thanks for the great information Dusty. :)
  • cpav5unccpav5unc Member Posts: 2
    Hello All,
    I am by no means a car or truck person meaning I am not knowledgeable about anything if something goes wrong. However, about two months ago I was driving down the road and the A/C went out. I had no idea what the problem was and I was hoping it was not the compressor. Long story short, it ended up being the fuse that controlled the horn and the A/C clutch. The fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and it also needed a freon charge. They put dye in it just in case, but the A/C is working great again. I am fairly certain this helps none of you, but just sharing.

    Take care.
  • dakota968dakota968 Member Posts: 9
    My 02 Quad's blower motor has stopped working. A repair manual I have said to check the voltage at the harness. With the key on (without the engine running) the voltage meter showed about 11.8 volts when the fan switch is off. It jumps to a little over 12 volts with the fan switch turned on at every speed. Does this sound right? Does it matter? Because there's voltage to the blower I'm assuming (we all know what happens when we do that) that the blower motor is faulty. If I am going to replace the motor, should I also just replace the resistor as well? Any other advice or tips?

    Thanks in advance.
  • dakota968dakota968 Member Posts: 9
    Guess what...... It was the resistor card! If anyone has a Dakota with a non-functioning blower, replace the resistor card first. It's $12 part and takes about 10-15 minutes to change. :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I am glad you were able to get it fixed. However, this is not new news... I have been replacing blower-resistors since the 1970s. It is the most common reason for blower to quit working. The Dakota/Durango tends to have this problem more frenquently than some vehicles.

    Under most failure-modes, the highest fanspeed setting still works when the blower-resistor burns out. This is because the blower-resistor is NOT USED when the fan is on "high" speed.
  • tranchr7tranchr7 Member Posts: 1
    Here's another one. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. All the dealer says is 'it's a $300 part and $800 to install it." They are so full of it. It should be a recall. The fan sometimes chooses where to blow and will never choose to blow at the floor, and now it chooses not to blow at all. It didn't blow for two days, then did for 1/2 a day, and now hasn't for 4 days. I am not mechanical enough (or small enough) to work on this thing. Any suggestions for anyone other than the dealer in Anaheim CA.
    92804? I am printing out all these forum discussions to take to independant shops so they don't just start tearing it up but have some specifics to look for.
    thanks!
  • dakota968dakota968 Member Posts: 9
    Listen, for $12 go get the part from a Dodge dealer, Part Number 5174618AA. The plug is right under the glove compartment. Get someone on the small side to pull the plug. The only thing tricky about it at all is that there's a red slide mechanism on the plug that has to be pushed over to get the plug out. Once the plug is out you can test the fix by plugging the new part in just to see if the blower will work. It is REALLY a 3 minute ordeal that costs $12. If you need to replace the resistor it is TWO screws that are a little tough to get at, but not that hard. I used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a 5/16 socket.
  • jethro1jethro1 Member Posts: 1
    Just curious, My 2001 quad Cab's blower stopped working recently. I'm just new on this site and after having read most of these archives, I was wondering if there were any possible fuses I should try replacing first before I go out and purchase this harness assy. Any help is appreciated.
  • dakota968dakota968 Member Posts: 9
    I could not find a fuse that was specifically for the blower. There are fuses labeled for the AC. I put my AC on briefly without the blower moving and you could tell that the AC wanted to work. All that I can say is that after reading as many forums and posts as I did, the resistor was the obvious thing to check. Here's a link to a blog I found regarding the blower and it shows some pictures of the area under the dash that might be helpful if you want to check the resistor. http://www.thegatesofdawn.ca/wordpress/?p=60
  • mcoreymcorey Member Posts: 9
    The A/C on my 2002 dakota just quit working. I check the unit for freon R134 and its good. I found that if I ground the ground wire on the pressure switch it works fine very cold!!!! Is there anything that would do this?? Any help with this would be great.

    mikeeeeeeeeeee
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Does the A/C compressor cycle on and off a lot?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • mcoreymcorey Member Posts: 9
    No it is not clycleing I have check charge and the pressure is good. I found that if I ground the at the presssure valve it will work, Like the relay is not getting a ground. As you may have seen in the trans message board I.m haveing a trans issue also. limp mode. possable ground prounum in system? But where?

    mike
  • waynicuswaynicus Member Posts: 8
    The blower motor quit on my 03 Dakota while I was in Afghanistan last year. My wife took it in and got it fixed. Now, less than a year later, it's out again. I took it back to the same shop, and they told me the resistor and harness need replacing, and they want $266 to do it. I found a schematic online of where the resistor is, but I don't know how to find the harness. I'm a moron when it comes to this sort of thing, but I'm confident if someone could point out where the harness is, I could buy the parts and do this myself. Thanks.
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    Check previous posts. I think #s 56 & 63. I don't think you need a harness but just the repair kit if the connector is burned or melted. Be sure to use the heavy wire that comes with the kit.
  • kschlichtingkschlichting Member Posts: 1
    when I turn the dial control on the dash to blow heat or air straight out from the dash vents hardly any air is felt coming from the vents, seems to be fine when you turn it to defrost or onto the floor, seems like something is not being activated, any ideas?? this is on a 2002 quad cab dakota
    Karl
  • tommy63tommy63 Member Posts: 4
    I have changed the water pump, thermostat, hoses and of course the coolant, and truck is still overheating. Here is something I heard that might cause this. I am from Louisiana, where the truck was bought and I moved to Wyoming. Would the elevation change cause truck to overheat? To me it sounds far fetched. Thanx
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Not with a functioning cooling system.

    You did not say which engine you have... if it is the 4.7L Semi-Hemi, make CERTAIN you used the proper bypass thermostat. The wrong one may fit but will not work correctly.

    Also, you may wish to do a leakdown test to make sure the cooling system is not leaking internally. (inside the enigne) Are you noticing any antifreeze loss?

    Also, dont forget that the waterpump on the 4.7L Semi-Hemi spins the OPPOSITE way of other engines... the routing of the belt is important! (it is possible to route belt wrong way so waterpump spins backwards)
  • tommy63tommy63 Member Posts: 4
    It's a 4.7L. There is no coolant loss. I have belt on according to diagram under hood. One thing I have noticed is one side of radiator is hot (right side) while left is cool, that is while I'm standing facing truck. As for the thermostat, it's a 195 degree same as the one I took out, but did not buy it at Dodge Dealer. The spring on thermostat is in engine so to speak. Also my wife pulled our 24' Travel Trailer up here to Wyoming from La with the truck, but ever since then it has been overheating, so I made the changes but that did not help. Thanx
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    Sounds like a vacuum problem. Do you notice the air also going to the floor even when set on dash when you go from a steady speed to accelerating? If so it could be a broken vacuum line under the hood or the vacuum motor that moves the door for the dash air.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The fact that you noted that one side of the radiator is signigicantly cooler than the other side points to a problmem with lack of coolant FLOW.

    Do not forget that the 4.7L semi-hemi uses a BYPASS cooling system. This is noted by the fact that the thermostat is mounted LOW on the engine (not at the top of it) This type of cooling system ALWAYS flows coolant thru the engine past the thermostat. One end of the thermostat 'senses' the temparture of this engine flow and the other end of it 'throttles' the flow of coolant out of the radiator and precesicely mixes it into the hot engine coolant. This is why using a 'normal' thermostat will really mess up the cooling system because it does not have the ability to perform this function.

    Here are a couple of other things to think about;
    Does the heater put out heat?
    Did you "burp" the air out of the cooling system using the special valve at the high point of the cooling system? (above power-steering resivour on radiator plumbing)

    BTW (for future reference): It is worldwide standard to speak of "right" and "left" side of a vehicle based on the point of view from sitting in the drivers seat. (not standing in front of it facing it)

    For example: The right headlight is the one on the PASSENGERS side.
  • tommy63tommy63 Member Posts: 4
    Mr., Peebles
    I wanted to let you know that through your advice my truck is now back on the road. I did the burp thing as you advised, put an identical thermostat in truck to the one I took out, and all is well with my Dakota. Sir, I appreciate all the advice/help you gave in getting my truck fixed. THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH. I do have one more question. Why is the 4.7L called a semi hemi?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    That is an easy to answer question...

    First of all, lets review why an engine would be called a "Hemi" in the first place. The term "Hemi" is slang for "Hemisperical". In a piston engine, the area from the top of the piston to the top of the cylinder head by the valve heads is known as the combustion chamber (this is actually just an area of air!). The combustion chamber on most overhead valved AUTOMOTIVE engines are either wedge shaped (think of a piece of pie) or hemispherical (think of tennis ball cut in half). The cylinder head design dictates the combustion area shape, so when someone says "hemi", it really only refers to the engine's cylinder head having a hemispherically shaped combustion chamber.

    Hemi heads have the spark plug located at dead center of the combustion chamber, which makes for an extremely efficient & powerful fuel/air mixing & flame burn (actual igniting of the fuel/air). Hemi heads also have ideal valve placement to help the flow of air (intake & exhaust) through the cylinder head. In simple terms, the head design is VERY efficient, and allows an engine to make excellent power! On the downside, hemi heads themselves usually are quite heavy & large, and valvetrains can be somewhat complex (read: expensive).

    The 4.7L engine is a "semi Hemi" because the head is almost a perfect sphere... except for a small bump.

    Here are some links which further describe the 4.7L semi-hemi
    http://www.allpar.com/mopar/47.html
    http://www.thehemi.com/news.php?id=20020826-1
  • tommy63tommy63 Member Posts: 4
    Mr., Peebles
    Thanx for the explanation on the engine. My wife said to tell you Thanx very much for the help in getting our truck fixed. Again, Thank You.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    As an aside to Bpeebles excellent explanation, when Chrysler first developed the "semi-hemi" combustion chamber in the 1950s, they were referred to as polyspherical engines, meaning they used a combination of wedge and hemispherical designs.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • magnummarkmagnummark Member Posts: 2
    Hello all
    94 dakota 318 w/air 2wd
    short story... blower motor worked only on high. then it didn't work at all. the way it happened i'm pretty sure it is the speed control. checked resistance on it but without documentation for the terminals....
    help me please!!!!
  • rolandtignorrolandtignor Member Posts: 5
    It's your fuse relays. My blower wouldn't even work. Mine was on the outside firewall in the engine compartment on the passenger side.
    I hope that helps.
    Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Check the Blower resistor - that is the most common failure for blower motor issues. It is the resistor which determines all the fanspeeds.
  • nanellnanell Member Posts: 11
    HI- I have a '94 dakota and had the same problem had the heater/ defrost on and it just stopped blowing. Have searched the archives and did as suggested. Replaced the resister (only $7). Didn't fix the problem, so then I pulled out and tested the blower motor. Tested fine as well (but Hubby replaced it anyway ($60)). But at last it still will not work. Any other suggestions. It is so cold we need it daily.

    Thanks
  • dakota968dakota968 Member Posts: 9
    I would be rather shocked that the resistor replacement didn't fix the problem. Try pulling out the resistor and putting it back in a few times to engage the pins. I would also suggest checking the new resistor to make certain that the new part wasn't defective. And, I would suggest describing the complete scenario of what/how much of functionality you have, when and how it stopped working, etc. There are some really savey people on this forum that can trouble shoot based on a very concise description of the problem. And definitely check ALL fuses that could be related (in the regular fuse panel, as well as, the panel in the engine compartment). Good Luck.
  • terrys2terrys2 Member Posts: 24
    Try wiggling the wires as they go into the connector at the resistor. Do this for all fan speeds. The wires where they crimp onto the terminals in the connector can burn into. It is hard to see this down in the connector. If the blower tries to run when the wires are wiggled you need to install a replacement connector. Be sure to use the largest wires that come with the new connector.
  • nanellnanell Member Posts: 11
    I was driving the fan was on high on the defrost setting, then it simply stopped blowing.

    There is no functionality at all. It does not blow any air out on any speed or setting even on AC.

    I tried 4-5 times to pull the resistor out to engage the pins with no luck. I also wiggled the wires at the resistor on all fan speeds more time than I can count and still nothing.

    When i hard wired the blower motor directly to the battery it turns just fine. :confuse:
  • nanellnanell Member Posts: 11
    Thanks for the hekp everyone. Got it fixed. The fuse for the blower motor in the fuse box in the cab of the truck had melted in. So thought we were going to have to replace the whole fuse box, What happend was the previous owner (an electricain) had bypassed the fuse box for the fuse to the blower motor. The new fuse was under the dash hiding behind the fuse box.

    This after we replace the resistor, & blower motor. ANd then took it in to a shop. SO it ended up being a $110 fuse.

    At least now we know where the fuse is.
  • snowman102185snowman102185 Member Posts: 2
    My vent/defrost selector seems to be stuck in the defrost and vent mode. It will not allow any warm air to go to the feet. It doesn't matter where I have the selector, it will only come out of the defroster and vents. It is kind of annoying driving down the road roasting but having your feet freezing. How does the system work and what should I be looking for?
  • meham2meham2 Member Posts: 1
    the selector switch for my ac/heat/defrost is stuck on defrost and will not switch to anything else. blower motor works fine. any suggestions?
  • kpfegankpfegan Member Posts: 1
    If I remember on the 98 the vent gates are vacume controlled. If you have no vacume or not enough to the controller it will not switch over to the cold side. Also check the heat control and see that it is moving the heater control valve.

    kpfegan
  • roddinphxazroddinphxaz Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 dakota 4.7 . i was out 4 by 4 when i heard a clicling noise in the front end . i thinks its the front axle . anyone have any advise for me thanks
  • roddinphxazroddinphxaz Member Posts: 3
    hi i also have a 2002 dakota 4.7 also and have the same problem have you learned anything about your problem
  • jbeaudetjbeaudet Member Posts: 2
    The hvac blower died the other day. Started to act up a couple weeks ago. One week I had the third speed only which lasted a couple of days, then that stopped and the fourth speed came back and worked for a couple of days, now nothing. Relay, resistor or blower motor. Please advise. Thanks
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    Your problem is a bad variable resistor, which is about $17 at your dealership. I believe for your year it is behind the glove box, for some years it is on the firewall. Just ask the parts guy and he will confirm the location. Easy to replace unless it is so burned out that you have to replace the harness also.
  • dakota968dakota968 Member Posts: 9
    Definitely sounds like the resistor. On the '02 it is located under the glove box and is held in place by a couple of screws. It took me all of 5 minutes to replace mine. The new one from the dealer is also a beefed up version, so, you shouldn't encounter the problem again any time soon.

    Good Luck.
  • fastcatsfastcats Member Posts: 1
    I only get hot air out of the dash vents no matter what setting I put it on. It will not switch to the floor vents or the face vents, I get no change in temperature out of the vents no matter what temperature I turn it to or if I turn on the A/C, Fan switch works just fine. Can anyone tell me what it might be or what I may need to change out.
  • jbeaudetjbeaudet Member Posts: 2
    Thanks guys, it was the resistor. 20 bucks and 2 screws later it works. thanks again for your help :blush:
  • chillrichchillrich Member Posts: 1
    I just fixed my 2002 Dakota vent issue last night. Had no flow from dash vents, only defrost and floor. There is a link which comes off the cam/motor under dash drivers side(towards center of vehicle). This link had come undone far up in the dash. The motor is electric so you can test w/o vehicle running.
  • maniac02maniac02 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 03, air only blows out of the defrost and floor vents. Is the 03 set up the same way as the 02?
  • kendla1kendla1 Member Posts: 1
    i have 02 dakota also w/same vent issue. how much trouble did you have finding and repairing. summertime in soutwest louisiana

    thanks,

    ken d
  • dleahydleahy Member Posts: 7
    I have a 1998 Dodge Dakota. The air conditioning blows so cold, it will run you right out of the truck. Then, it blows ambient temp air and is useless. I have replaced the cycling switch, the refrigerant, checked for leaks with dye, replaced the high pressure switch, the control head and the vacuum harness that connects to the back of the switch. It works when started and then after varying amounts of time, the air just stops being cold. Fan remains on system just blows fetid crummy smelling air. Seems to work much better when it's cool outside and is guaranteed to shut off and stop cooling when it's hot. HELP! Last bozo to "help" said it "might be" a body control module (??!!) Whatever that is. Need to get this fixed as it is 108 degrees here all week. Thanks very much!!
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