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I got a new 2007 new cr-v ex. I just drive it 50 miles, then the TPMS indicator is on.
my sales agent tells me that it is because one of tires has low pressure. But I check it, the pressure of all 4 tires are 40 psi.
1. The manual told me that tire pressue should be 30 psi, so what is wrong?
2. what is the problem of the TPMS light?
Thanks,
I'm not sure about the CR-V but some systems are tied into the spare and that can trigger the light.
Hopefully not all the knowledgeable owners are on the road for the holiday weekend and someone will respond soon. :shades:
You could also ignore the TMPS because if it's working correctly it wont go on unless there is a 10 to 15 lb.loss
of pressure and by that time you can visually see the problem.
Mileage only 13000, and even if tires are in good condition , I want to change them with ANY brand/type that would reduce the high level of road noise.
Questions:
1.For those who changed them already- did you noticed significant road noise reduction after replacing the OEM tires with other/better brands?
2. What makes some tires to be quieter then others?
3. What brand are you recommending most for CRV 2WD? No off road driving for me
4. Average price for a set of 4 quiet tires?
thanks,
dan
Mine is an 05LX, has Dunlop OEM, and road noise is very loud.
1. TPMS light indicates that the system itself failed, not necessarily problem with the tire pressure. My dealer said that they needed to recalibrate the sensors and reset TPMS light. That took care of it.
2. After TPMS started monitoring tire pressure, it signalled Low Tire pressure couple of times incorrectly, when pressure looked correct (my dealer suggested 32 PSI, except spare which is set 60 PSI), they found the same sensor failed both the times, they agreed to replace that sensor.
Don't know what is the deal with bad sensors on new cars. Honda, are you buying these in bulk in some corner seconds store or something? Let us hope not!
It doesn't look like an update to this thread was made.
TIA!
M
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I had them on my 2003, but I only drove in wet winters, not snowy. The tires are great in wet conditions.
for a set of the Big O brand Euro Tours (made by Cooper). The better half hit a piece on metal that destroyed the right rear Bridgestone, YIPPEE!
After 1 day and 80 miles of highway and twisty mountain roads I think I'm happy so far. They are a vast improvment in terms tire noise on the highway and handling, excellent grip and quiet on tight mountain turns.
I thought I'd go with the Yoko TRZ or Goodyear Assurance Triple tred but decided on the Euro Tours based mostly on the cover every thing, including tire replacement, guarantee. The wife seems to get more than her share of flats, sigh... OTD was $500.
I'll try to report back later after some winter driving.
Have Fun.
Impact was though. After a minute I felt that car is acting like one of its tires blew out. I stopped on the shoulder and checked the underneath of the CRV and its tires, but nothing wrong. I was able to continue driving home, where I did a thoroughly check and still could not find any “visible” signs of the impact. Next day, soon as I was on the highway driving 70mph, the CRV started to act the same way. No vibration, just a loud wobbling sound, like driving with a flat tire. I slow down to 55 mph, continuing driving, and after a minute the wobbling disappeared. I accelerated back to 70-75 mph, and everything was OK, cruising at 75-80 mpg for an hour.
Yesterday, soon as I was on the highway, I had the same problem at70 mph. Now that I cannot see any visible damage, I am thinking that around 70 mph speed one of the tires had been internally damaged on the impact and is getting into the wobbling resonance/vibration mode. But still why is this disappearing soon as I slow down, and does not reoccur when driving high speeds again?
Tires are Kumho, in good condition, drove with them since I’ve purchased the car, same highway, same speed , tire pressure 30, never had a problem. It all started after that impact with the piece of tire.
I find it pretty odd with all the logicality I’m coming up
Please advise if you could.
Thanks in advance,
Dan
PS My CRV is a 2005 , 2WD, 14K miles.
See post #5437 in "CRV maintenance & repair" just a thought??
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/assignHomeVehicle.do?yr=2004&mk=HONDA&vid=00800- - - 5
http://www.tirerack.com/cart/HoldingArea.jsp?ask=no
good luck....
You have to decide for your self whether you value better adhesion or longer life.
Long life tires generally have harder compounds, which have lower adhesion rates that softer compounds. Considering that the 4 tires on the ground are the only connecting points between the vehicle and the ground, you would want to have as much adhesion to the road as possible.
Race tires use very soft compounds to get the most traction (function of adhesion). So, by getting 100,000 mile tires you may compromise your safety. Just an FYI.
Thank you very much for your post. I rotated my CRV at 7500 miles when I change my oil (I know the manual said 10K mile). And I checked tire pressure regularly. Not sure why the tires are wore so fast.
I checked on the web and also Costco tire center. Costco only have two kind, one is BF Goodrich Long Trail, another one is from Michelin (I think it Michelin X-Radial $99/tire with installation). The tire center people told me Michelin is quiet than BF Goodtch. But I saw some people post noisy on Michelin tires. So I do not know which set will give quiet ride. If you know any of these, please kindly let me know.
I paid about $400 for four Hydroedge at Costco, but I think there may have been a promotion going on at the time.
I think I paid a little over $500.00 for 5 tires. Free rotations are another plus - saves you 20-40.00 every time.
She is not in the place to buy top if the line - but does not want to be penny-wise and pound foolish. She lives in Maryland and deals with lots of rain and snow. Any makes better than others? Any she should STAY away from?
Thanks so much!
I think mine ended up costing me $250 for all 4 installed with lifetime rotation and road hazard warranty after the $50 rebate.
It depends. If the tire wear is significant (over 5% difference between the new and old tires) she will probably need to replace all 4 to prevent AWD system from binding. Or, put the 2 new tires in the front, and 2 better old tires in the back.
Thanks in advance for any input.
The OEM set tire finished before 22K. The firestone people told me (when I changed oil at their sotre), the tire damage so fast because the tire is under inflate. But I was always go with recommended 26psi. Why Hando recomend 26psi (but even dealer always adjust to 32psi when do service with them)? I am really puzzle.
TIA
I was hoping some of you could help me. I am due for new tires at 40,000k. I read bad reviews on my current tires...Bridgestone, which were the original tires when I bought it. So I want to try a different, better quality tire. Any suggestions??
I am also wondering the same thing. Though i already picked up my CRV with Bridgestones, but IMO the conti's look a bit better. Why 2 different tires on 1 model?
I don't think it's as easy as saying the dealership has a Gold colored EX-L, one with one type tire and the other with the other tire. Each car has a stock number. Perhaps some of the stock numbers have Bridgestone and the others have Continental. You'd never be able to switch the tires from one stock number to the other.
Most likely the chosen tire company did have enough of the particular tire, so some of the EX-Ls came off the line with Bridgestones, and some came off with the Continentals.