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Thanks in Advance,
DVD4
Arnie
Any information would be extremely appreciated.
Thanks
A few days ago I also had the same problem that you are experiencing, except I did not change my battery. I just noticed that my Malfunction Light come on. I talked to few buddies, and they mentioned that I should remove my necative wire off my battery and then wait a few minutes and that should remove the Malfunction Light, and that still didn't. So then I decided to remove my positive wire instead. When I did that,I noticed that my radio and display was not on at all. When the key is turned the ACC or IGNITION all that happens is the equalizer buttons blink. I have checked all fuses and still nothing changes to the display and radio. Iam ruunning out of idea's also. If I find out something, I will definately let you know ASAP.
Today when I turned on my left turn signal, I got that rapid clicking noise that indicates that my signal isn't working. Sure enough, the rear turn signal is not working, so I removed the bulb. The bulb appeared to be fine but my son took it to the car parts place anyway to get it replaced. The proprietor told him that the bulb is fine so that there must be some other problem.
Where do I start? What could another problem be? All of the other lights/signals seem to be working fine.
I'm leaving on a road trip tomorrow and would like to resolve this by then, if possible.
Thanks.
Thanks
The instrument cluster will just go dead van continues to run okay it just has no readout speed,temp,rpm, etc. Will try your suggestion.
Thx
The local mechanic suggested replacing the ignition. After this procedure, the car ran fine for 3 months and then the same thing began happening again.
At this point we went to a dealership. The mechanic did not know of any such common problems with this make and model. Several other factors have been considered in what is causing this issue:
The first was an issue with the driver’s door power locks. They had been intermittent and showed up as an error on the computer diagnostic. The mechanic at the dealership theorized that the car’s computer would shut down the engine due to the error in the system. The door lock switch was replaced and the problem went away for several months only to return again!
Another factor was another intermittent symptom that came and went over a year ago. Upon starting the car, the instrument panel (lights and gages) all went out as if the car was off. The engine ran just fine. This happened several times and not directly in conjunction with the main issue. This also happened recently when we cleaned out the air intakes (by the wipers) with a bleach solution. After a little time in the sun, the panel lit up again.
I feel like this could be a wiring harness issue or printed circuit board. The problem is I cannot replicate this in front of a mechanic, so it is a crap shoot. I would appreciate any and all suggestions. Thank you.
The car also has this whining noise for the past year that the dealer cant'f fix or hear. Correction they fixed it when the car was 1yr old by flushing out the power steering system. It can be heard upon starting the car and is constant. It also gets louder when turning the steering wheel when in park or while driving. It is not weather or temperature related. I seems to be constant. We have once again flushed steering system, new steering pump in addition to finding other things wrong,new water pump,trans solenoid assembly you name it I think its been replaced still the noise continues. Routine maintenace is killing me because there is always something else wrong. After several thousand $, no warranty, and no plans for a new car I would love some help.
I am not sure if it is really an issue, though, other than making the noise. Fords, especially the "older" trucks like pre-97 Rangers, F-series, Aerostar vans, are notorious for noisy power steering pumps. It does not seem to affect the system's longevity on those vehicles.
I am not sure about your "security light" problem.
Read the posts on DodgeTalk.com
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108869&page=6&pp=20
There is a whole thread (six pages) there talking about exactly the same symptoms as you describe, AND a fix for it.
Has to do with the circuit board(s) behind the instument cluster on your vehicle. Some of the solder points are cracked, andneed to be resoldered. I just tried that fix, and so far so good.
Here's one of my recent posts on that site - but go there and follow the whole thread because you'll get to understand it better:
Well, I did as I thought to do: solder the cracked solder points (five of them) at various spots on the PRNDL3/Odometer circuit board - the smaller of the two boards found behind the instrument cluster. Spent $4 on a soldering iron, and $2 on some solder - plus a few hours pulling the cluster out and putting it back together (which is not difficult or complicated if you have the Chrysler CHILTON manual, or some other version of it). Put the thing together and what do you know. The car started up immediately after not having responded at all for over two days.
And that was 4 days ago. It has started on every first attempt since. Not bad considering it (the cluster) died every single day before then for over a week. Though only time will tell, it looks like my vehicle is back in order. Have had some really hot days - over 110F - and some really humid ones, lately, but neither caused any problem. Before the solder job, those exact conditions were guaranteed to kill the cluster and result in the no start/run trouble.
Not having any exact explanations of where on the cluster circuits to look, or pictures of what to look for, I scoured both circuit boards for solder points that looked like they should be connected but weren't - those points that had a wire right next to it coming up through a small hole in the circuit board and bending back toward the solder point, but not actually connecting - there were three that had a hair's width of space between the wire and the solder spot. I soldered all those together, adding a little more solder to ensure a secure connection. Then there were another two or three solder spots that had hairline cracks in them - I used a magnifying glass to confirm my suspicion. Soldered those, too. I found nothing suspicious on the larger circuit board - the one that drives the needle gauges (fuel, speed, tac-o-meter, and temp guage). Everything was on the small circuit board that drives the PRNDL3/Odometer readouts.
After soldering the suspect spots, I plugged the cluster back into it's socket in the dash, and the vehicle started up no trouble. I too forgot to try starting without the cluster in place, first. But then I remembered someone saying they tried it afterwards, and had no trouble running the vehicle even without the cluster. So I disconnected the cluster again and tried starting the van. Fired right up and kept running no problem.
Interesting. Now it's all back together, and so far - for the past 4 days - it has brought us home every time. I am so thrilled.
But only time will tell.
Thank you so much for the response. I am excited to take a look at that smaller circuit board. I have pulled out the instrument cluster and the large circuit board on the back looks fine. My assumption is that the smaller board that you described is underneath the larger board, inside the cluster. I will report my findings. Thanks again.
PS, I love your screen name.
First the power doors only worked intermittently. Then the speedo gauge would go crazy and now doesn't work (although all of the other gauges seems to Tach, fuel etc.)
The Air conditioner won't turn off. The fan control knob has the little light on it but does nothing. Fan always blows on high.
The stereo just has the blinking EQ lights. This must be some anti/theft thing.
I took it to a recommended repair shop that specializes in electrical work. they told me I need:
New battery
Right Door Latch
Left Door Motor
Front Control Module
Parts = $839
Labor = $675
Total + $1619
Hope that work for you.
Thanks
Anybody have any advice???
Thanks
Good luck.
Then we had more and more occassions where the instrument panel would be dark when trying to start the car. After researching the internet, I found that several folks had been able to fix this problem by resoldering the heavy pins that are part of the grounding system on the back of the instrument cluster. Fixed!!!!
Be aware that the dealers are all too quick to replace computers when the more likely causes are sensors and wiring connectors. The Chrysler data bus has to detect all computers up and running, any one down and the car won't start. The instrument cluster has its own computer and it was not working hence the non start.
I loved that car, unfortunately it was totalled in an accident. We bought a 2005 T&C hoping that the Germans finally got it right. Unfortunately, now I have rock hard leather seats (that looks and feels more like pleather).
The 2005's locks have stopped working!!! Aurghhh!!!!