Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems

xwesx · October 2009

This may be the connector on your console circuit. If you remove the connector, clean it, perhaps add some dielectric grease, and reassemble, it may resolve the issue.

Does your horn work? If not, the airbag light may be due to a bad clock spring, which is what maintains the electrical connection between your steering column and wheel.

Master plumber/heat/AC huh? I need to install my boiler to the radiant heating system in my house.... including all the manifolds, etc. Do you know of any books that explain this process? I cannot seem to find any; or, it may be that I am using the wrong search terminology.... :sick:

kochese · October 2009

Hey thanks , What dose the connector look like, and yes my horn is out to.. I can help you w/ ur boiler ...So let me get this right, your installing a new boiler to replace the old one ,and you want to know how to switch it ??. Dose your old boiler have any radiator heat hooked up to it......................The boiler has a Header and a Return. all you have to do is cut out the header low from the top and low from the return at the bottom, but i can get you the books on boiler if you want. How do I change the clock spring?.. Thanks Again

pastexperience · October 2009

Did your speedometer intermittantly jump speeds? Also did random service lights come on and go off? If this is what you are experiencing have the mechanic look towards the instrument cluster, it is may be bad and needs replaced.

xwesx · October 2009

I am not sure how to change the clock spring; I suspect you will have to remove the steering wheel. I will check my repair manual this even to find out... if I think about it! With young children and a stay-at-home wife, my evenings are often quickly commandeered!

The connector for the HVAC controls is located just behind the space where your lights are blinking. A few screws holds that portion of the console in place; remove them, pull the face plate forward, and you cannot miss the connector. But, it may simply be the clock spring that is causing your problems, since the controls for cruise are located on the wheel, too! The blinking console lights may indicate that you need to run the diagnostics on the HVAC (I listed those a couple months ago somewhere on this forum....

). That process is pretty simple and will tell you if there is a problem. The good news is those blinking lights will not affect the driveability or operation of the van or its components.

As for the boiler, no, this is a new installation. The only parts of the system that I have are the tubes in the concrete and the boiler itself (a condensing, oil-fired Monitor). I have to do all the installation including the zone control thermostats, valves, manifolds, etc. I usually find myself a good book and learn that way, but I cannot seem to find one for hydronic heating systems. :confuse:

kochese · October 2009

Hey Thanks Again normally you can go to the engineer that gave you the specks to put the tubing in your floor. They normally set you up with all that. I'll check around. theres a place called JOHN STONE SUPPLY. There should be one by you .They have alot of those CDs. Thanks Again..

xwesx · October 2009

Ah, I skipped that phase.

Here in Alaska, we often do things a little differently than the civilized world.

There is a Johnstone Supply in Anchorage, which is a mere 350 miles away. I will check them out this winter when I am next down that way.

kochese · October 2009

LOL oh ok yea they should have it but i'll d/l some stuff 4 you and post it ., and come to think of it ,the cars gas gage was the very 1st thing that started when we filled it up it used to go to the empty to full spot and the bell would ring up and down.and yes i recall the speedometer jumping.. :confuse:

boidae1 · November 2009

i am having the same problem. can you tell me what you did yo solve the problem. thank you.

wantanewcar2 · November 2009

Hello,

Thank you for your very detailed and thorough response.

I could be wrong, but I don't think it is the speedometer and tacometer cable because the symptoms are a little more severe. It it's mildest form, the lights on the dashboard (gear indicator, mileage indicator) just flicker. When it is having a "bad episode", all the dials spin, warning lights ping on and off, radio goes on and off, DVD sysytem starts and stops, HVAC system pulses air (while in the off position), headlights flicker...and now it completely shuts down while I'm driving. This is obviously a problem as it is hard to maneuver a moving van with no power steering or power brakes. And as an added bonus, which I discovered 2 days ago, the hazard lights appear to not work either when there is a complete loss of power. As the dark powerless vehicle comes to a stop, I have heard a clicking noise- to me it sounds like the noise an ignition makes when your battery is dead and the car doesn't turn over. I have only heard that noise once, it's possible it has happened other times and I haven't noticed as my main concern is to get my car off the road safely.

These problems are intermittant. There does not seem to be a correlation between moisture in the air, or temperature differences. When I have brought it in to the shop, they have on occasion seen "the issue" but then when they hook up their machines it is fine. The van usually behaves itself for a few weeks to a few months after such visits to the shop.

Do you still think it could be the sodor? My thoughts are I am going to try to get it to "behave" and trade it in this weekend!

xwesx · November 2009

Sounds like a bad connection. I would start with, perhaps, the primary ground from the battery. Often times those connect to a bracket, which is (in turn) connected to the engine block. It may be that a connection is dirty or just loose enough that it has too much resistance (or breaks connection altogether).

kochese · November 2009

THANK YOU ONCE AGAIN I LOOKED 4 THOSE BOOKS ON RADAINT AND THERE ALL 4 SALE ILL KEEP LOOKING

forte4415 · November 2009

I have a 06 Dodge Grand Caravan that has a left rear blinker problem. I changed the bulb twice without any luck. It still does not work. I changed the fuse and still no luck. Anyone had any ideas?

srs_49 · November 2009

Is it only the turn signal light that is not working? Do the brake, backup, and running/parking lights all work OK? Is the turn signal bulb just for the turn signal,or does it have another filament in it for another function, such as the running/parking lights?

Bad/corroded socket or a loose wire.

forte4415 · November 2009

It is just the left turn signal. There is no other functions for the bulb. I check the wires and the socket, which seems to look good. I saw no loose wires.

amandash · November 2009

I had a similar problem which took me a while to figure out. It turned out to be the seating in the lens that was broken and was not mating properly. Mine is a 98 but the construction may be the same. Good lock in solving the problem.

masterpaul1 · December 2009

Hi All and Happy Holidays. I need recommendations of a good brand battery to replace in our 01 DCG EX. I usually get 5 yrs out of a battery. This would be our second battery in 119K. (I was thinking about a diehard.) We leave in Chicago so it would have to be able to deal with our changing weather and temps. Thanks

srs_49 · December 2009

Should be able to get more than 5 years out of a battery, though maybe Chicago winters and summers are especially tough. What size battery?

CU's recommendations varies a lot with the size/type of the battery. In thr group 34/78, they liked the Sears Diehard Platinum, but it's expensive - $180. The Napa Select 84 and Autocraft Titanium were both around $80.

xwesx · December 2009

I have very good luck with Napa batteries. I had one in my truck since July 1999, and just replaced it this Spring when it couldn't start the truck after sitting all winter, then began failing to hold a charge. Now, if you want to talk about extreme climate, I live in Fairbanks, Alaska. It says a lot when a battery can start a large displacement engine after sitting for six months in temperatures as cold as fifty (or more) degrees below zero.

workin72 · December 2009

workin72 · December 2009

2003 T &C i just replaced ECM and injector harness, if your having rough idling or ECM problems look there mine was completely melted through under mess. Ran great one week NOW wont turn over at all. Battery is new all instrument and accessories come on. small click under fuse panel. swapped out fuses and relays without luck. anyone have anything similar.

nsa · December 2009

Many electrical problems...passenger window goes down but not back up using either the passenger or drivers side button, back hatch pops but does not open using the remote, heat in boths seats stopped working, seat position memory button does not work all the time, sometimes when I push that button the radio changes stations. Roof onlys pops open does not slide open...Are electrical problems common in this van?

masterpaul1 · December 2009

I'm not sure of the battery size. Owners manual doesn't specify. The battery it's self has 600 cc amps. Right now, I'm going to wait for it to die. I carry jumper cables and a battery booster. (Old habits diehard

robreece · January 2010

We have a 2002 Chrysler Town and Country Limited.

When the van is started and the engine is running, we loose power to power windows, the HVAC blower, wipers, and radio. For a short while, this was an intermittent condition while driving with no reason -- these components would go on/off for no rhyme or reason driving around town. This weekend, this condition seems to be permanent when the engine is running, i.e., these components do NOT work at all with the engine running.

Here's the kicker -- when we turn the key to the ON position, and the engine is not running, all functions return!

I've checked all fuses & relays and all visually appear to be okay. In a darkened garage, when the headlights are on, I can see them flicker somewhat when at a low rpm. From the research I've done thus far, I've seen this might be a bad BCM, ignition switch, alternator, or even something else.

What might the problem be and how should I fix it?

Thanks!

Rob

xwesx · January 2010

I vote for the BCM - all sorts of gremlins seem to originate from that unit. I have a similar condition with my van, but the symptoms change all the time so it is impossible to pinpoint the fault. I gave up on it for the winter, but plan to resume my search when the snow finally melts in another four months so I can sell it feeling confident that someone will get reliable use out of it. :mad:

robreece · January 2010

I'm thinking about pulling out the BCM and inspecting it for visual cracks or frays on the circuit board.

I'm hoping the BCM version number is visible so I can order it and replace it if necessary.

pal6 · January 2010

I seriously doubt it's your BCM. I experienced this with my 02 van. I would clean the battery terminals good and the problem would go away for awhile. After talking on another forum and visitng the dealer, I finally figured it out. The A/C Clutch turns on and there is back voltage (which shouldn't exist) telling the ShutDown Relay to turn off all accessories. IE: it thinks the car is starting and powers off everything. There is a known issue wth 3 generation T&C. Battery acid has leaked under the battery tray and destroyed the wire(s) under it. I pulled my tray and found a blue wire/yellow strip exposed due to battery acid or wore away from rubbing against the tray. When I looked up the blue wire w/ yellow stripe, it was the A/C Clutch power wire. I cut and connected the wire using a wire connect. It hasn't occurred since.

Here is some info....
http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...#ixzz0Oi0HeCUX

The following comes from the above link (when the web page is retrieved, click on Read More to view the entire troubleshooting process):

K99140943
Vehicle Issue: Radio, power windows, wipers inoperative with engine running. If ignition key in run position but engine off everything works.
Year: 2005 | 2004 | 2003 | 2002 | 2001
Model: RS - Caravan, Voyager, Town and Country
Category: Customer Concern (No DTCs)
System or Component: Radio | Cigar Lighter / Power Outlet | Power Windows | Wiper / Washer System
Symptom: Inoperative
Condition Verification: Yes - Continuously
Case Verification: While the ignition switch is in the START position the accessory relay will drop-out and resume operation when the ignition switch goes back to run.
The accessory relay controls the operation of the radio, power windows, washer motors, wiper motors and power outlet (almost anything inside of the passenger compartment).
The ignition switch supplies power in the START position only on the T751 circuit (20 gauge, Yellow) to cavity 2 of the IPM C7 connector and then to cavity 19 of the FCM. This shuts down the Accessory relay until power is removed.
That very same 751 circuit also provides power to the Starter relay at terminal 86. It also exits the IPM through cavity 3 of the C3 connector and goes straight to the PCM at cavity 30 C1 connector.
Recommendation: While your condition is occuring, check for voltage on the T751 circuit. If there is voltage the Accessory relay won't function. With the engine still running, remove the starter relay and see if the accessory relay starts working. The bottom line is you have to find the source of the voltage on that circuit and eliminate it.
Modification Date: 05/10/05 12:49 PM

Good Luck....let us know how you make out.

robreece · January 2010

There is a known issue wth 3 generation T&C. Battery acid has leaked under the battery tray and destroyed the wire(s) under it. I pulled my tray and found a blue wire/yellow strip exposed due to battery acid or wore away from rubbing against the tray. When I looked up the blue wire w/ yellow stripe, it was the A/C Clutch power wire. I cut and connected the wire using a wire connect. It hasn't occurred since.

Right on the money.

After removing the battery and the tray, that's what I discovered too! Corrosion galore. I was afraid that the nuts securing the tray would dissolve into powder, but I got them off intact.

Where is this blue and yellow striped wire roughly here? Do I need to unwrap some of the bundles to access it?

pal6 · January 2010

Robreece - Edmunds site has Advertisements posted on the right side cutting off half of your posting. On the other forum, I posted a picture highlighting where my wires were affected.
When you unwrap the black taping around the harness, clean up the acid with baking soda mixed in a little water. The damaged wire was not easy to see immediately until I cleaned everything up.

xwesx · January 2010

Yep - add the following to your image tag after the source location, but inside the tags:
border="0" height="410" width="547"

It will resize the image to one that will fit on the page without losing any text.

joebobby · January 2010

Replaced cooling fan relay but still have engine light on and p0480 code. What next????

danielpenteado · January 2010

I have the same problem with my 01 Voyager while the engine is running. Nevertheless, if I hit the gas pedal and increase the RPM fast, the front wiper runs once and the radio clock blinks once too. In addition, if I turn on the rear wiper, while the rear wiper is going from left to right, everything works. As soon as the rear wiper reaches the start position (left side of the car), everything stop again.

I didn't check under my battery to verify corrosion yet, but do you think that could be the same problem? Even with these two new details (RPM and rear wiper) ?

Thanks

danielpenteado · January 2010

I removed the starter relay while the engine was running and everything worked perfectly!!!

What should I check first to solve this issue?

Thanks

danielpenteado · January 2010

I have news about my issue. As soon as I start the car, pwr windows, HVAC, wipers & radio stop working. But, if I remove the EATX relay while the car is running and put it back (everything with the car running), everything start working perfectly and keep working until I shut the car down. Just removing the EATX relay and putting it back solve the problem until I shut down the car.

Any ideas?

billyntara · January 2010

The driver's side electric sliding door on my 05 T&C recently stopped working altogether. When the button on my key is pressed, the door still unlocks but it does not even attempt to open. When I open it manually, the caution lights do not flash anymore nor do the interior light come or stay on. I originally thought the door motor went but without any electric function, I am not so sure now. Any similar problems that have been diagnosed/repaired or any guesses?

Thank you and God bless you!

Tara :sick:

asummers1 · January 2010

Had my 02 caravan in the shop for this EXACT problem today............pulled the EATX relay and all worked until it was shut off..........any further news on this?????
I am going to get my regular mechanic look at the corroded wire under the battery option........maybe it is the cause????

rpittmon · January 2010

My 2008 T&C has had a jillion electrical problems--including both sliding doors seeming to have a small mind of their own. However, once the computer control units for both doors and the entire electrical systems had been "flashed" at least once by the dealership service department--no more problems. It had been so bad that I had wanted to just trade back for my 2002. Good luck!

danielpenteado · January 2010

assumers1

I have some news on this. I tried to replace the EATX and STARTER relays with new ones but didn't have any effect.

Yesterday afternoon I started up the car and everything was working again. But I didn't do anything, it got fixed by itself. Last week was raining a lot here in Iowa and I think that some moisture got inside the relays or any circuit and since stopped raining I think that the moisture is gone and the system is back to work.

sissy42 · January 2010

I have a 1998 T & C LXI. The problem I am having is that my door ajar light has started to appear on the instrument panel (while driving) on its own which turns on the interior lights even though all the doors are locked. Has anyone else experienced this problem? At first it did in once, but today it has done it every time I get into my car. Any help is appreciated before I have to shell out a bunch of $$$ to diagnose the issue.

billyntara · January 2010

Please pardon my ignorance, but what does 'flash' mean? Is this something only a dealer can do? Thanks!

asummers1 · January 2010

Flash means upgrade the software.
basically the same as you install updates on your computer apps.
However only the dealer can do it.

ericbusch · February 2010

I have a 2005 Town & Country Limited with 34,000 miles bought new. For the past 6 months or so if the car sits without being driven for a week or so the battery is just dead and the car won't start and is completely dead. If it is driven every few days the battery is fine and the car starts fine and drives fine. I've had 3 brand new Die Hard batteries and now a brand new Interstate battery and this keeps happening. I've been to the Chrysler dealer several times and he found nothing. Finally, last time he said I needed a new fuse box which would cost $650. I got the same repair done by a very reputable local garage I use for $450 but this problem still persists. The garage told me that the car is only drawing 3 mAmps from the battery when it is not on. He couldn't think of anything that could be causing this problem and suggested I get a trickle charger. The only other history this vehicle has is that several years ago it was in an accident involving the right front fender and right door which was repaired by a body shop. There has to be something causing the battery to die after 1 week of non-use but it obviously recharges when driven often enough. Any ideas?

srs_49 · February 2010

If what the garage told you is accurate - that the car is only drawing 3 mA when off, then any battery should last months without driving. There is probably more leakage through the battery itself than 3 mA.

After you park the car knowing it's not going to be driven for a week or more, disconnect the battery at the negative terminal. Then, hook it back up when you're ready to drive it and see if the car starts. If it does, then the 3mA measurement was probably made after the source of the leak, or maybe the value was really 3 amps?

I'm not surprised that replacing the fuse box did not fix the problem.

duanemlr · February 2010

If I leave my dash light rotary switch in anything but off the next morning I am unable to start my car. The starter will just whir and the tac and speedometer will peg out on the high side. The other day after driving over 100 miles I stopped at a drive in and left the key turned on for about two minutes so I could operate the window and the car would not start. It doesn't take a lot of charge from a jumper cable but does anyone have any ideas?

xwesx · February 2010

Have you had the battery checked? It could be that it is simply worn out. If you have no problems while the engine is running, the alternator is working just fine.

ray112 · February 2010

The headlights and turn signals suddenly stopped working on the town & country 1995. Harards, parking and other lights working ok. Can someone let me know what is going on. Thanks for your assistance.

pixiez3 · February 2010

Ok, I have a 97 DGC sport with 219,178 miles on it and have been doing nothing but trying to find an answer for the stalling out of nowhere that has left me and my family not only in unsafe situations because you have no warning for when this will happen but also is costing way too much. Then I came acrossed this forum and I am almost 100% positive I found the answer but I have two questions. The answer would deffinatly be the Circuit Board behind the dash, 1. We have had our van down this time for 2 days strait (nevermind how many times it died leaving us to have it towed in last 4 weeks) I told my husband about hitting the dash (which he did about two months ago accidentally and the van started so when I pointed it out he said I was crazy) He did try hitting it but said it did not start so is it possable that this has just been happening so long that that "hitting the dash" idea surpassed? 2 has anyone found the video that shows what to solder? I did find the pics but it sounds like the video shows a little more detail.

rpittmon · February 2010

When we had our '77 VW Rabbit, it would stall out--then after 20 minutes to an hour it would start OK. After many EXCITING adventures and a hot cross-country trip, we found it to be caused by a faulty fuel pump relay that VW supplemented with a short jumper. Good luck!

kochese · February 2010

I found out that the airbag lite when lit, also controls horn & cruze. I have the same problem and was told that its most likely to be the clock spring went bad. Thats located under the air bag. You can also bypass the clock spring to get the other things working again. I bough my clock spring for $60.00. I have yet to put it in. To cold. I did a lot of looking on google about it .Bought it at.. GOPART.COM.

becky214 · February 2010

Here is one for you...1996 T&C...Turn signals quit...but flashers worked. Could turn on flashers, turn on signal then turn off flashers and signal would work....usually. Had a new "multi-function switch" installed ($500)..next day...no signals. Next month, cruise became intermittent. Then dash gauges flat-lined (Lit nicely but stayed zeroed. Took it to a different garage...They replaced the "multi-function switch" again...told me all was well and the dash lights worked again...I pointed out they had ALWAYS worked...it was the gauges that were finicky. Paid $700, started the van...no signals and no gauges....and no cruise. Then the van would not start...sometimes I could shake the van and it would start...now it clicks once and sits there no matter what I do. When the gauges are not working, neither are the automatic door locks. When it does start, I never know what will work and what will not. Sometimes things start or stop working while I am driving. I caught it at a good moment and had the annual safety inspection done....pulling out of the drive, the turn signal quit as I left. (at least I remember hand signals). It has never died on me when driving. So....what is causing all this? No one at the garage seems to know.

hawkdriver69 · February 2010

I have almost the same issue on my 97 T&C since the day we bought the vehicle the windshield wipers would come on all by them selves and shut down after a few strokes. about 10 months ago the vehicle just started shutting down I have replace all the O2 sensors and have had it on the computer several times with no luck just out a few hundred bucks. I think there is a short somewhere in the steering column but I have no idea on how to proceed

Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems

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