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Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,793
    Most likely a faulty connection to or a faulty BCM (body control module) itself. Problems with that unit can illicit all sorts of symptoms at random. :mad:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wwmswwms Member Posts: 1
    I have had a similar problem with my 2005 XLE. It has happened 5 times since Dec. Car is fine, then I move it and maybe load some things in and leave the doors open for less than 15 min. and it won't start. AAA came the first time and said I need new battery. Sams checked batt. and said it was fine. No problems for a month and same thing happened. Other times I've cleaned out car for over an hour with doors open and it starts fine. Alternator?? Let me know if you figure it out. I'm going to check on a loose connection too.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,793
    You might consider cleaning the battery posts and the clamps really well with a wire brush and spraying them with some anti-corrosion spray. Sometimes it can look like the connections are good and tight, yet there is resistance in there that is not allowing for sufficient current.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • sissy42sissy42 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1998 T & C LXI. The problem I am having is that my door ajar light has started to appear on the instrument panel (while driving) on its own (chimes every time it appears) which turns on the interior lights even though all the doors are locked. Then the locks keep tyring to lock. I had to turn off the interior lights. Has anyone else experienced this problem? At first it did in once, but today it has done it every time I get into my car. A couplle of days later all was good, but now it's doing it again. Any help is appreciated before I have to shell out a bunch of $$$ to diagnose the issue
  • kochesekochese Member Posts: 11
    edited March 2010
    I also have this problem :cry: same thing 98 t&c lxi I also need an answer. Ilove this car... :Lately i have been slaming the back hatch i think it may be the button. :blush:
  • sprajamsprajam Member Posts: 1
    my wife has told me about something with our 98 Chrysler T&C it seems the abs lights battery lights well she says all the lights come on periodicly then they turn off. got any ideas for what to look at when i inspect it or maybe someone has had this happen or knows what is the cause. we just recently had problems with the power steering and found that it was just a bad high pressure hose.
  • krl2krl2 Member Posts: 5
    My 2005 T&C turn signals have gone crazy. Sometimes fine, sometimes don't work,sometimes just turn off after being on for 5 seconds. Sometimes when I turn on right signal, the left comes on. This is all day long. Any one else have this problem, & what did you do to correct it?
  • alpineralpiner Member Posts: 8
    I had a power drain problem like yours and confirmed the exact leakage by removing the negative cable and connected a FLUKE vom between the battery lug and the cable end with the vom set on amps. It read 8 or 9 amps. Bad alternator!
    I have an suv that I need to drive once a week or it will drain the battery.
  • alpineralpiner Member Posts: 8
    You just have to break down and buy the certified electrical diagrams and find out where some boob on the assembly line put an inch and one half screw where a 3/4 inch should have gone and routed the cable so it stretched. This happened to me and the rear lift gate/hatch wires were shorting at times.
  • batfieldbatfield Member Posts: 1
    We are having the exact same problem, seems to have started after the van sat for almost aweek after the last big snow storm in West Virginia. I am checking on replaceing the signal control modual.
  • krl2krl2 Member Posts: 5
    Malfunction turn signals, I just had mine fixed, it was the multi function switch. Mine was under warranty, I lucked out this time. All is ok now.
  • buitronbuitron Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 town and country. it has just developed this problem. The van starts fine and runs fine. once it warms up and you shut off the vehicle. It will not start again. It is not the battery, not the alternator. It does not make any type of grinding sound. It is just a click. I had a mechanic look at it. We switched out some relay switches but all of the old ones were good. He is telling me that it is not the computer. I am wondering if it is the computer. any thoughts?

    Thanks
  • amandashamandash Member Posts: 14
    You did not comment on the starter. So that check should be done. When you experience the problem use a direct jumper to the starter and see if it spins up. Had a similar problem with a nissan recently.
  • sissy42sissy42 Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    A friend of mine that works on cars had this happen to him also. He replaced the door switch (black button if you manually press it in and out controls the interior lights in the car) on my driver's side and so far so good. He hasn't gotten around to replacing his yet as he's been under the weather. This made be your problem as well. :)
  • kochesekochese Member Posts: 11
    thank you 4 the info ill do it .. thanks again
  • sissy42sissy42 Member Posts: 5
    Your welcome. Let me know if it works.
  • rusty1fan2001rusty1fan2001 Member Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    Im having problems with my stereo it keeps cutting out when you turn it up loud.Is there a amp for stereo and where is it located?Also door ajar light stays on and door locks go crazy while driving and interior lights stay on.Also wipers work only sometimes on intermittent.Thanks Please help me RT
  • sissy42sissy42 Member Posts: 5
    I haven't had any issues with my stereo, but I had my driver's side door switch replaced last week and I am no longer having problems with door ajar light, door locks and the interior lights. When I was having the problem I turned off my interior lights, but the door ajar light and the locks kept going crazy. I haven't had the wiper issue. Hope this helps.
  • rananranan Member Posts: 1
    Hi,I i have 2003 T&C limited and I have the same problem and no one find out what the problem is,I bought this van used ,it was a trailer hitch but no wiring that I can see.

    I already spent over 80 bucks but no one can find the problem,now they are telling me that i need new BCM ,or other guy is saying he need to pull the carpet and look for wiring fault

    please help

    Thanks
  • rpittmonrpittmon Member Posts: 5
    I would whole heartedly recommend having the Chrysler folks to "flash" the BCM--that just means they hook it up to their computer for any updates that have not been done. We had all sorts of electrical problems with our 2002 T&C until they FINALLY did that.
  • sadcarsadcar Member Posts: 2
    I have had electrical issues with my t&c 2005 56k miles, since august 2009. dash lights start to blink then the electrical systems stop working and the car shuts off, usually while in motion or stopped at a light. all of the dials move in unison, left to right and then back again. going through intersections is extremely dangerous since that is when the car is slowing down. my wife was stuck twice in this situation. very scary. the hazard lights don't even work. We have had the alternator replaced and the BCM. The van has been in the shop 8 times!!! The dealership can't figure out what is wrong and when they give it back to us it work just fine for awhile and then we are back to it happening again. it is progressively worse each episode. We all need to call chyrsler's 18002479753 number and have this noted. I also filed an online complaint to the national highway traffic and safety administration (NHTSA). www.nhtsa.gov. if we don't record this issue en masse then we won't be able to get his taken care of. :lemon:
  • mrsmcliecheymrsmcliechey Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2005 Town & Country about a month and a half ago from a used car dealership and recently started experiencing the same problem. I was wondering if it had to do with the chip in the key, Some kind of malfunction that shuts the engine off. I am going to file a complaint also. It is very dangerous, it has shut off on me in the middle of an intersection twice. I wish I would've know about the problem before I bought the van.
  • elaine54elaine54 Member Posts: 3
    Please I wonder if I can get some advice. Going along at 70 mph the car stops, engine light and some other light comes on, some car nearly hits me from the back as the car just stops, cannot start, manage to pull over. I eventually get the car to the dealership and they cannot find the problem as they cannot get any codes, they have the car for 4 weeks, telling me they are running checks on the car. Saturday I go in and take one of the mechanics we drive 40 miles and the car does not do anything but drive smoothly, take it back to the dealership they keep on testing. I tell them to replace the PCM, get the car back and it goes smoothly until the next day, as I pull off it starts jerking, going at a good speed I cannot feel the jerking, as I slow down it jerks almost like its having a problem with the gears. This problem started last year 2009 Aug, the dealership found nothing. It almost feels like it needs a good tune up. The mileage on the vehicle is 95000 and I have had all the services kept upto date. Please is there anyone out there who can suggest what the problem can be. Sensor - Solenoid, transmission. Thanks so much.
  • asummers1asummers1 Member Posts: 3
    I had the same type of thing.........02 caravan.
    would just jerk around a bit then die.
    Once on the highway.
    a few times at lights.
    A dealer put a computer simulator on it and read when it did it......turned out it was a wiring harness.
    The one that runs (brilliantly!!!) under the battery.
    These wires connect your PCM (powertrain control module) to the main power box.
    Tell your dealer to pull the battery and really inspect these wires.
  • elaine54elaine54 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you I will do so, I am sure its something so simple and not too costly to repair..
  • wantanewcar2wantanewcar2 Member Posts: 6
    I also used to have a 2005 T&C. It sounds like I had very similar problems (see posting 357 "dash board disco" on this board). My dashboard lights used to flicker and dials spin, and if the "episode" was bad enough all electrical systems would fail and the car would die wherever and whenever. I agree this is incredibly dangerous- as twice this happened when I was attempting to go through an intersection and lost power brakes/steering, etc. The last 5 months I had the vehicle, I was too worried to take it on the highway, as I felt if that happened at high speeds it could be deadly. I had it in the shop numerous times and, of course, it being an intermittent problem, they could not figure it out. According to the Chrysler dealership, no one has ever experienced this before- which I know is untrue. I became so concerned with my safety, I had to sell the car (back to where I bought it from). I ended up buying a Sienna. As a complete coincidence, the car salesman who sold me the Sienna told me about the T&C minivan he used to have where the dashboard lights flickered and electrical system would fail-he almost got into an accident because he lost power- this story was unprompted-I had not not told him anything about my car problems. We are not alone- and this needs to be addressed.
  • sadcarsadcar Member Posts: 2
    I received a call this afternoon from Chrysler corporate today. it was their district manager for my area. I told them about my issues and the countless that are here on edmunds with the same issue. I am bringing the car into the dealer tomorrow morning. supposedly there is an escalation technical team that will be going over my case. I am bringing with me several possible solutions that have been listed on this message board. the more I read on this forum the more I want to trade it in somehow but I still really like the car. remember to file complaints at nhtsa.gov and with chrysler directly. it may work if enough of us do it. keep you posted on my visit :mad:
  • elaine54elaine54 Member Posts: 3
    McCune has replaced the PCB and although the vehicle is not cutting out it is still jerking. When I pull off from a stop and when I come to a stop it feels like the gears don’t want to go into a lower gear, I do not feel this jerking when I am driving at a faster speed. It almost feels like it needs a good tune up. The tech actually drove it and said he found nothing wrong with it.
    I spoke to the Service person and they said that they have checked the WIRING HARNESS. Any advise as to what else they can check before they call me again and tell me that they cannot find anything wrong with the car. Thank you.
  • dex18dex18 Member Posts: 1
    I had the jerking going on at low speeds - going uphill and sometimes turning left. I had a tune up. It helped but didn't fix it. Turned out to be the ignition harness. Got a new ignition and the van works fine now.
  • smiles22smiles22 Member Posts: 3
    2006 Chrysler Town & Country 78000 miles Battery light came on 2 days ago..Was headed out of town today...and radio was off...ABS light came on then RPM going crazy and would not shift..everything slowly stopped working and van died....right window has not wokred for a while now..and right slinding door works off and on...will just make sounds and not open...when you try manually open you CANT...took to dealership today for evaulation..=(
  • smanning255smanning255 Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    Same problem, replaced clock gear and all is well.
  • byrsscbyrssc Member Posts: 5
    We have had this problem for about a year now. It starts and runs fine, but the instrument panel will just die. The "check engine soon" light comes on as does the ABS light. Sometimes the panel will start working if we hit a bump, but right now it's just dead. Thank goodness the low fuel chime works, so I know to get gas. I read on this forum that a fix might be to soulder the control panel. My husband is disabled so he can't get the panel out. Is this something I could do, inc. the souldering? I'm pretty good with repairs. And does it sound like it would fix it? Thanks for any help on this annoying problem.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,793
    The solder fix would almost certainly clear up your problem. There is a blog with an overview of this fix here:

    http://www.davintosh.com/2007/09/15/fixin-the-dashboard/

    You should not have much of a problem getting the circuit board out. I am not sure about the soldering itself, but it is more technique than anything else.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • elacherelacher Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get this resolved? I'm having the exact same problem!
    Thanks.
  • smiles22smiles22 Member Posts: 3
    Mine was the alternator...after it was replaced everything is good now...$350
  • byrsscbyrssc Member Posts: 5
    Last Sat. everything worked fine and I haven't had the chance to take out the panel. So far this time, it's been working for about 4 days. It's hot here, so I'm wondering if the solder points get warm and expand. It does seem to go out more in cooler or rainy weather. Gee, my car is just like my body :sick: - lousy weather is a no go.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    If it is a bad connection (solder joint, connector, or whatever), it is not surprising that the problem would come and go with changes in temperature or vibration (driving) or shock (hitting the dash).

    Electronics that we build for the military and space applications go through vigorous environmental screening tests, including dozens of temperature cycles and several vibration tests to weed out just such things as marginal solder joints.
  • sabymac70sabymac70 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Town & Country. We bought it a couple of years ago and after about a month after sitting for a bit I tried starting it and it would not start. Engine would not turn at all. After trying for a while the car would try locking the locks and eventually the battery did die. The next day after putting in a new battery it would start without a problem. Just a couple weeks ago we started having the dashboard go out on us. Radio still works, just the dash and the security alarm and abs light is on. It will work most of the time, but will go out on occassion. Then last week after work, so after sitting for hours I tried starting it and it started right up ran for a couple of seconds and shot right off again. After trying to start it a few times it would not even turn the engine. Lights and locks still work, but not the dashboard. Dealer could not find any error codes and said that the computer needed replacing and possible rewiring, bringing us to a total of 3,800 dollars. The van started right up after sitting at the dealer for the night. The van seemed to have been in an accident and the side that the computer is on was affected. We found a computer at a junkyard and put it in and it ran for a week and now we are having the same problem. If you let it sit for a while it will start again. But it be several hours before it will start again. I am afraid to go anywhere further away, there seems to be no specific trigger for this problem.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,793
    Try repairing the instrument cluster (main electrical plug on the circuit board has faulty solder joints) first - that just may solve all of your mysterious problems.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • mortxxmortxx Member Posts: 1
    Replacing clockspring in steering column, again. Dealer replaced it the first time. How do I remove the wire connector from the back of the airbag housing? It looks like the dealer used some type of adhesive. Does the whole connector come off of the housing, or just part of it?
  • ehumbertehumbert Member Posts: 2
    edited June 2010
    Having pretty much the same problem. Last year, the dash console stopped working. No radio, display of clock, etc. Only thing that worked was the engine. Still, by going to the accessories position of the ignition switch, those things DID work, and the windows worked (all these powered items). This is on a modified 2005 T/C set up for wheelchair access.

    Last night, we came out of a restaurant, and found that (without the key being in the ignition), the radio and console were on! No position of the ignition made any difference. Engine would not start. The starter tried to get it going but it just kept grinding away, but not starting.

    After about 20 minutes (in a torrential downpour), my wife suggested trying to start it with the headlights on. I tried that, and at first nothing happened except the console lights and the radio turned off after the key was turned off! It took about 10 more minutes and hitting the starter a bunch, but it started, and we were able to drive home (about 70 miles away!). As soon as I turned the ignition off, the problem started all over. Haven't looked at it this morning.

    HELP!!!!
  • rlb1955rlb1955 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan. Any gauge that was an lighted readout went out. The van operated perfectly you just couldn't see what gear you were in, the odomoeter, and a few other gauges. This has happened to me before and always seems to be on a 100 plus degree day, I live in the desert. If I disconnect the ground cable on the battery wait 30 seconds and reconnect it, the dash will reset itself and the lights will work perfectly. This has /nly happened twice in five years.

    There is another test for the heating/cooling system test reset you usually need to do it if any part of the cooling or heating system has been worked on.

    With engine on set blower motor to high, set mode position knob to panel (i.e. full left), open all A/C outlets, set temperature to cold (both levers if so equipped). Now press the wash and rear wiper buttons on the A/C panel simultaneously for 5 seconds (until all LED's light). This should get the test started. Assorted lights on this panel will flash as different tests are run. Eventually if the tests are passed the rear wiper LED should be the only light flashing. Push the rear wiper button to exit test mode and you should be home free.
  • tstiltnertstiltner Member Posts: 1
    I got a used 96 town and country. All the lights and door chimes come on with the ignition switch on or off and with the light switch disconected. The switch is good but has no effect? any Ideas?
  • zack16zack16 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 chrysler town and country van that will not start and the transmission is locked. There is plenty of battery, but when I activate the ignition I get a rapid clicking as if the starter motor is stuck. What's the problem?
  • reonreon Member Posts: 19
    "Van won't start", "Engine makes clicking sound" is no help at all.

    To try to diagnose a problem without seeing the vehicle requires the longest list of details you can think of that happened up to the point of failure. Also important is what you have done so far and the outcome.

    The smallest details could lead to a conclusion.

    Write up a rambling novel, some key words may be the tip off.
  • rpittmonrpittmon Member Posts: 5
    I'm going to bet it is a bad starter solenoid.
  • biggamekenbiggameken Member Posts: 1
    I'm curious to know if you found the solution to your problems yet. I also have a 1998 T and C with the exact same problem. This has occurred randomly to me over the past 2 years, but just recently it's begun to happen more frequently. I took it to a Chrysler mechanic and he said the vans from 1997 through 1999 are fraught with these problems and the solution is only found through trial and error. He suggested I trade the van in, but I really don't want to do that. I have the same symptoms as you've described. At random times the odometer, speedometer, and mileage stop working. When this happens the van will start and run for about 2 seconds. After multiple attempts at starting the van in this condition, typically it will no longer start at all, but all the other symptoms remain the same. After leaving the van sit for hours or sometimes days it will start right up and all symptoms go away on their own. CRAZY isn't it!!! If anyone can help it is greatly appreciated. Aside from this it's a great van and I'd hate to get rid of it. PLEASE HELP!
  • herky011herky011 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2004 Town and Country, @69K miles. Air condition has worked fine for months and suddenly became very erratic. The rear air stopped working , blowing only hot air. The front air was intermittent, cooling a little on the Passenger side, warm on the driver's side.
    Checked service, changed the rear expansion valve, serviced system again.. Rear worked a little,nothing on the front.
    Took it to a dealer and they got the front air working, but nothing on the rear. On closer examination the wiring to the rear blend door was burned at the blend door plug and the blend door actuator was melted @ 3/4 inch around the plug. The insulation between the blend door and the body was burned/charred about six inches around the blend door actuator.
    Anyone else ever had this problem? This is an ATC three zone system.
  • dodgerdudevandodgerdudevan Member Posts: 2
    We bought this 2006 T & C and after 6 days we had the warning chime alert and the gauges started jumping and the internal display lights started flickering and the emergency internal display lights started flickering. We did not buy an extended warranty and the dealer is saying that they are not responsible for this. Any help with what to do or what may be wrong with it.
  • dodgerdudevandodgerdudevan Member Posts: 2
    Hello I know yours is an older post but I am terrified that an owner like yourself got their van to "behave" and I just bought it. I owned it for 6 days when my dashboard disco as you call it began. It has now been in the shop for 4days with no answer in sight yet. Any help or advice would be great on this.
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