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I have an suv that I need to drive once a week or it will drain the battery.
Thanks
A friend of mine that works on cars had this happen to him also. He replaced the door switch (black button if you manually press it in and out controls the interior lights in the car) on my driver's side and so far so good. He hasn't gotten around to replacing his yet as he's been under the weather. This made be your problem as well.
I already spent over 80 bucks but no one can find the problem,now they are telling me that i need new BCM ,or other guy is saying he need to pull the carpet and look for wiring fault
please help
Thanks
would just jerk around a bit then die.
Once on the highway.
a few times at lights.
A dealer put a computer simulator on it and read when it did it......turned out it was a wiring harness.
The one that runs (brilliantly!!!) under the battery.
These wires connect your PCM (powertrain control module) to the main power box.
Tell your dealer to pull the battery and really inspect these wires.
I spoke to the Service person and they said that they have checked the WIRING HARNESS. Any advise as to what else they can check before they call me again and tell me that they cannot find anything wrong with the car. Thank you.
http://www.davintosh.com/2007/09/15/fixin-the-dashboard/
You should not have much of a problem getting the circuit board out. I am not sure about the soldering itself, but it is more technique than anything else.
Thanks.
Electronics that we build for the military and space applications go through vigorous environmental screening tests, including dozens of temperature cycles and several vibration tests to weed out just such things as marginal solder joints.
Last night, we came out of a restaurant, and found that (without the key being in the ignition), the radio and console were on! No position of the ignition made any difference. Engine would not start. The starter tried to get it going but it just kept grinding away, but not starting.
After about 20 minutes (in a torrential downpour), my wife suggested trying to start it with the headlights on. I tried that, and at first nothing happened except the console lights and the radio turned off after the key was turned off! It took about 10 more minutes and hitting the starter a bunch, but it started, and we were able to drive home (about 70 miles away!). As soon as I turned the ignition off, the problem started all over. Haven't looked at it this morning.
HELP!!!!
There is another test for the heating/cooling system test reset you usually need to do it if any part of the cooling or heating system has been worked on.
With engine on set blower motor to high, set mode position knob to panel (i.e. full left), open all A/C outlets, set temperature to cold (both levers if so equipped). Now press the wash and rear wiper buttons on the A/C panel simultaneously for 5 seconds (until all LED's light). This should get the test started. Assorted lights on this panel will flash as different tests are run. Eventually if the tests are passed the rear wiper LED should be the only light flashing. Push the rear wiper button to exit test mode and you should be home free.
To try to diagnose a problem without seeing the vehicle requires the longest list of details you can think of that happened up to the point of failure. Also important is what you have done so far and the outcome.
The smallest details could lead to a conclusion.
Write up a rambling novel, some key words may be the tip off.
Checked service, changed the rear expansion valve, serviced system again.. Rear worked a little,nothing on the front.
Took it to a dealer and they got the front air working, but nothing on the rear. On closer examination the wiring to the rear blend door was burned at the blend door plug and the blend door actuator was melted @ 3/4 inch around the plug. The insulation between the blend door and the body was burned/charred about six inches around the blend door actuator.
Anyone else ever had this problem? This is an ATC three zone system.