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Ford Fusion/Mercury Milan New Owner Reports

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Comments

  • lostlost Member Posts: 64
    My Fusion is almost 6mos. old.. and no issues to report. The car just runs great, 27mpg around town without even trying and got 34mpg out of one tank on the highway going 70 to 80 mph. I have updated the SYNC system a couple of times using a thumb drive and the Sync website, the new turn by turn navigation feature works very well and the 911 emergency feature is a great idea.
  • desgnrdesgnr Member Posts: 19
    Why did you have to update Sync ?
  • desgnrdesgnr Member Posts: 19
    When should i get my first oil change ?
    I think 7500 miles is to long to wait for a change in the break in period.
  • koho955koho955 Member Posts: 97
    I would get my first break-in oil change and service check at 3,000 miles.
    After that, I go every 7,000 miles for oil changes and to rotate the tires.
  • lostlost Member Posts: 64
    Ford has added new features to the SYNC system since I first purchased it.
  • hackattack5hackattack5 Member Posts: 315
    I plan on changing mine at 5000 miles. I have always done 3000 miles but now know that is overkill. My brother has a corolla with 200,000 plus miles with no problems and changed his oil at 5000 miles since he bought it new. I guess it also depends how long you will own the car? If you leased it and plan on turning it in I would do as the scheduled maintenance book calls for. I would have to look at mine but I think its 7500 miles?
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    If your going to use that logic, why not change it at 500 miles, then stick with the 7500 mile change? There was a time where it was the norm to change out the oil at 500 miles on a new engine, but with today's new semi synthetic oils, it isn't necessary. Stick with what the manual says, and forget wasting oil as in the old days, 3000 miles on today's oils is a waste. Toyota is going to a 10,000 mile oil change on their new cars, they use full synthetics now. My first change is due, actually past due, but I haven't had a chance to change it yet. I will do an oil analysis on this one to determine how the engine is, noting it is the first change to Blackstone. I will also be going to full synthetic Mobil 1, and use a WIX filter. With this setup I can easily get 10K between changes, and at least 15K with a filter swap at 7500.

    3k oil changes today are a gimmick to get you in the door by the quick lube joints, check the owners manual, and unless you live in the desert, drive less than 5 miles or tow, you don't need to follow the severe duty list. If you do a lot of highway driving, then the change interval can be extended, the oil is at a consistent temperature, the engine runs at a consistent fuel/air ratio, so less blowby to get into the crankcase, and less carbon buildup. City driving, stick to the recommended change interval as long as you drive long enough to have the engine at operating temperature for at least 30 minutes to burn off any moisture. Use a good name brand oil, the additive packages in these oils are designed to last a long time, it is the additives that break down over time, not the oil. Once the additives break down, then the oil loses its ability to carry off contaminates to get filtered, some of the additives are binders that bind with carbon, and other byproducts of combustion so that they can be filtered out, and some additives also contain small amounts of ZINC and other minerals to replace those lost by engine parts due to friction. Synthetic motor oil uses higher amounts of additives and the nature of the synthetic oil makes it easier to carry off the contaminates to the filter. A good filter should filter down to at least 10 microns or less, preferably down to 5 microns. Anything less can cause the filter to clog up and go to bypass which is just as bad as not having a filter at all. If you were to find a 1 micron oil filter you will find that it is huge, and thats to get some life out of it.

    Napa WIX filters are some of the best filters around, so if you do the change yourself, going to Napa for a filter will give you a good peace of mind knowing your engine is protected.

    Changing the oil early on a new car, unless stated in your manual is not needed anymore, and is a waste of oil, time and money. Do it at the recommended interval, and have the first one done by the selling dealer at the recommended interval, the rest you can do yourself, or else where, this way you have a record that it was changed at least once by the dealer if there is a warranty issue. Keep your receipts for the oil and filters, and you should not have any issues if something does happen. I have driven a lot of cars, and gone many miles over recommended intervals and have never had an oil related failure. I had a car I put a new engine in, changed the oil whenever I felt it needed it, sometimes with 15K on it, and after 300K miles on it, put it in another car that had a bad engine, and needed to swap the intake and pan. The engine was clean inside, and showed very little wear, I plastigauged the bearings to see how much wear it had, and they were well within specs. I used Castrol GTX every time with Napa filters.

    I also have a 1999 F350 Powerstroke Diesel that has 130K on it, I use Shell Rotella T OIl, and have gone 9500 miles between changes, having a Blackstone report done. Every report came back saying there was still life left in the oil and a change wasn't needed at the time. Recommended change on this engine is 5000 miles. The engine itself can run up to $10,000 to replace, and yet I have no problems with extended oil intervals due to the reports I get on the oil quality.

    Blackstone Labs
  • jaybluezjaybluez Member Posts: 1
    My wife has the same whine with her 08 fusion. Started a few months ago. Sounds are coming from alternator area. Will look into it further. Anyone else found a remedy for the noise???
  • hackattack5hackattack5 Member Posts: 315
    We had our first snow here in Cincinnati and my wife reports that her Fusion SEL did very well on slick roads. She said her traction control light came on several times but never felt the car slip or slide.
  • koho955koho955 Member Posts: 97
    Lots of snow in Chicago this winter. My V6 SEL drives great in the snow. Equal to any other front wheel drive car I have owned. I don't have the sport tires so things are good.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    I have the Sport and surprisingly enough, the badyear low profile 18" tires handle the snow far better than I expected. I didn't drive it in today's snow storm due to the low ground clearance, the front spoiler is a wee bit lower than the other models, and last time we got 6" of snow I was plowing the road with my bumper. I got the Veracruz out today, feel like a truck even though it drives like a car, I got very used to the Sport.
  • xmechxmech Member Posts: 90
    "We had our first snow here in Cincinnati and my wife reports that her Fusion SEL did very well on slick roads. She said her traction control light came on several times but never felt the car slip or slide. "

    I thought that light only comes on if there's a fault or you turn off the traction control. I'll have to check the manual again.
  • stephen987stephen987 Member Posts: 1,994
    I think it's supposed to come on whenever slippage is detected and the system is active, but it should go out as soon as traction is regained. That's the way it works on my Accord.

    If the light comes on in dry conditions, or stays on, that's a different matter.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    It flashes whenever the traction or stability control is active.
  • desgnrdesgnr Member Posts: 19
    Just got a 2010 Mercury Milan Premier
    It is very hard to judge the distance when i am parking.
    When i pull into a parking space with a Concrete Curb i am afraid i will hit the curb & hurt the front end which is very low.
    Does anybody else have this problem & what do you do to judge the distance ?
    I never had this problem with any other car i have owned.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Just practice. Pull up as far as you think is safe, then see how close you are and adjust as necessary each time. Within a month or so you'll be able to get within 6 inches no problem.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    I had that problem with the Camry, but not with the Fusion. I know the front air dam is lower than the Camry so I tend to not pull up too far anyway. I usually back into a spot since I have the camera I can tell where the bumper is in relation to whatever is behind me. Still have a very hard time backing using the camera, I guess too many years using the outside mirrors has broken me.
  • koho955koho955 Member Posts: 97
    I have trouble judging the front end of the 2010 Fusion also. When I park and think I'm 2 feet+ from the curb, I get out and look and I am close or over the curb. I'm used to parking my old SUV so I have to get the hang of the smaller back end and not worry if I'm sticking out into traffic anymore.
  • timothyftimothyf Member Posts: 40
    Hi, I have a 2010 Fusion Hybrid. Here are some things I'd like to see on the next model. Illuminated ignition key opening, rear midlevel A/C vents, rear seat boot opening for skis, heated seat works with the remote start, memory seats, choice of voices for MySync (I'm thinking Jessica Rabbit), radio controls adjusted with index finger behind steering rather than thumb in front, less sensitivity on the gas pedal or another way to keep in EV mode longer without having to have such a light foot touch, fin antenna, more padding on bottom part of the driver's seat, hood struts, cabin air filter, and more substantial connector on cell phone charging cover. Any one else have suggestions?
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Your Fusion should already have a cabin air filter, mine does. Good luck on the throttle though, none of the Hybrids I have driven had a gas pedal that was easy to use. The heated seats thing though, that would be a tricky one, what if you use it in the summer? ;)
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    ...radio controls adjusted with index finger behind steering rather than thumb in front...

    I have never heard of any other car/truck/SUV on the market with this type of set-up, nor can I possibly see the benefits to this, especially when you can't even see the switch.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    My 2000 Lincoln LS had a toggle switch behind the wheel. I think it was for changing stations (next, previous). It was very intuitive and easy to use, although I don't really miss it.
  • txbricklayertxbricklayer Member Posts: 16
    My Acadia has the 'under steering wheel on the right' toggles for the radio volume.
    Other radio controls on the wheel are on the top right.

    I just bought a Lincoln MKZ with all radio controls on 'top'. The Acadia volume controls are much better as under wheel toggles.
  • desgnrdesgnr Member Posts: 19
    How come the 2010 Milan Premier does'nt have body side mouldings for protection from scratches ?
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Member Posts: 1,230
    Probably the same reason why the new Fusion and new-for-'09 Mazda6 doesn't have them after having them for the previous generation: they do nothing.

    When I bought my '04 Mazda6, I was satisfied with the mouldings, hoping that they'd add some protection from other car doors in parking lots, and to keep the doors from getting scratched/dented. Now, 5 years later, I've got tiny dents on both front doors and scratches from parking lot mishaps, all around the mouldings. The mouldings themselves? Not a scratch... Seems they do a good job at protecting themselves while allowing the rest of the doors to be destroyed.

    IMO, mouldings are an eyesore on most car door designs, do nothing to protect the doors themselves, and are a pain to wash/wax/detail around. I'm glad they're gone, and don't plan on buying another car with them again.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    I agree on the moldings not being needed, or helping any.

    I am completing a refurbish of a 1995 Grand Marquis, mechanically the car is sound, the body needed a little work, so a fresh paint job and its an almost new car again. The side moldings cannot be left off, each rear door has a hole in it, right under the molding. I was planning to leave them off since they were beat up, replacing them is over $500 for 8 pieces. :mad: They really don't do a thing, all the doors needed to be sanded and filled to remove the dings. The drivers side got side swiped, so the moldings are scratched, but looks like I can repair and repaint them.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Maybe when the doors are being sanded and filled, the hole under the moldings can be filled too?
  • brueggiebrueggie Member Posts: 46
    So we will pick up our new '10 Fusion this Saturday and I have one complaint so far from the test drive. The volume on the turn signal is loud when the radio is off. Anyone heard of a way to adjust it? I know when I talk with my wife in her Equinox using the built in bluetooth system, I can barely hear the click clack when she is stopped and waiting to turn. Has anyone been on the receiving end of a phone call from the Fusion when it was waiting to turn? Wondering if the signal sound would be loud on the receiving end. Thanks for your responses!
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    My DW noticed the louder turn signal in our Hybrid that we took delivery yesterday. I guess it doesn't bother me...so far. Will have to see if it is noticeable in phone calls.

    -Brian
  • koho955koho955 Member Posts: 97
    I have been driving my 2010 Fusion for 3 months now and I still have trouble with parking. I too pull into a spot (or the garage) thinking I'm a good 3 feet from the cement parking stop or curb only to get out and see that my front bumper is way over the curb. I always think that I'm sticking out into the street when I park but when I look I'm fine.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    I got the car finished, and the side moldings cleaned up rather well, I am quite pleased how they turned out, they look like new. I had to replace on that was too damaged to repair, but now that they are all back on the car, you will be very hard pressed to find the new one.
  • cannon3cannon3 Member Posts: 296
    I had my transmission fluid changed and an oil change. My vehicle needs new tires at 70,000 miles, this is my second set of tires. Tires are SPENDY for this vehicle. I decided on some Yokohama Envigors V rated. I got a screaming deal from my local Ford Dealer. They beat Discount/America's tire along with another local shop. I mean beat the price by over $50 for a set of 4. I had to order them, getting them installed next week. The car is running great. No mechanical issues. Oh, I also had to have a battery put in about a month ago. Washed the car today and am noticing the paint is taking a beating. I live in the NW, lots of rain/sleet some light snow/ice. They gravel the roads here, OUCH!@.. Over the next year or two I am going to need to make a decision on whether to keep or sell my trusty Fusion. If I decide to keep it I am probalby going to have it painted the same color. No real body rust, just rock chips. Overall, I would recommend this car.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Ford dealers do have amazing tire prices, far below the discount chains. I priced out new goodyear RS-a's for my sport, and the dealer beat them all out by about $30 per tire.
  • whardenwharden Member Posts: 2
    This is not an all electric vehicle, the gas motor works as it's suppose to, it depends on the charge of your battery. The best trick I have for getting and staying in electric longer is to accelerate to your desired speed 45 mph or below and just give a tap on the brake pedal this will usually put you in electric mode and stay constant on your gas pedal you should be able to get up to about a mile when doing this. Of course there are variables but this method works great for me. I can better the highway and city mileage with no problems, with my best mileage being on the highway at 50 mpg on one 300 mile trip. This mileage was confirmed with checking actual fill up gallons used.
  • wilcoxwilcox Member Posts: 582
    We are getting some great AVERAGE summer mileage right now. 41.0. A little lower in winter...little higher in spring. Owned for 9 months and no problems other than a little road tar and everyday grime. Fortunately I installed mud guards after we received it. But I like to wash our vehicles so that these annoyances are nothing...
  • jsadka1jsadka1 Member Posts: 9
    2009 Mariner leaks on passenger side and has horrible musty odor. Been to dealership a few times and they can't find a leak. I even took pictures with me. Soap in floor after going through car wash. Odor worse when its damp or really humid. Odor coming through vents. ????
  • lostlost Member Posts: 64
    This is a "new" to you 2009 vehicle. Do you have any credible history of this vehicles condition, accidents , body repairs ,windshield replacements etc.
  • schooltchrschooltchr Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2010 Milan VOGA model new with all options including AWD. The transmission surged and did not shift smoothly from the first drive. Took it back and the dealership repaired as there was a service bulletin on the transmission from Mercury. Transmission still did not shift properly. returned to the dealership. They were unable to duplicate the problem. Transmission failed completely at 36,000 miles as I was driving on the highway. It was rebuilt by the dealership. Still surging--dealership kept it for several days--unable to duplicate problem. Drove it home surged again. Traded it yesterday. I'm unable to determine if the car had an ongoing mystery defect or if the dealership was inept--end result was the same. Sadly, it was a beautiful car that I considered unsafe.
  • schooverschoover Member Posts: 2
    I loved my car, up until about a month ago. I have about 45k miles on it already. I am in sales, so lots of stop and go, freeway etc. I have already replaced the battery and struts on the trunk lid. These were under warranty though. I dont really blame the car for these issues as I am always opening my trunk several times a day and starting the car 20-25 times a day. What irkes me is now I have a rear tail light out, the led ones. Figured it should be an easy fix... NOT EVEN. Took it to the dealer. They cant replace the bulb, rather they need to replace the entire lens assembly at the ridiculous price of neary $400. What in the world is that all about?? Anyone else have this issue or is my dealer giving me the run around. Of course its not under the extended warranty and I am not about to spend $400 to fix a light bulb. I have also had issues with the tranny slamming into 2nd and 3rd gear, esp when cold. Dealer performed some sort of "fix" but it has since returned. My wife has a 2010 Fusion with the same v6 and she is having the same issues. I had planned on keeping this car for several years as it has every option I need for thousands less than a comparable german car, but I am not liking these problems at only 45k miles. Any insight out there? Thanks
  • andy1050andy1050 Member Posts: 2
    2010 Milan 4 Premier: My right LED tail failed @18,000 miles, so still under warranty...yes, the cost is high. The LED tail cluster has to be replaced as a complete unit. Not a good idea to have these expensive lights as a safety item. Odd how the kids can't wait to customize their cars with LED's !!!

    I've had this car into the dealer seven times since new for two recalls and other issues. Good service BUT would not really trust this car past 36,000 miles and not going to buy an expensive extended warranty for miles after that.

    This car may not be the keeper I planned for...as my past pattern is to take autos up to well over 100,000 miles of use. Too complex, too many issues so far.

    Transmission shift points was a recall...to re-program. Check with dealer.
    If no recall data, see about "technical service bulletin" to cover issues, even after out of warranty.

    Dealers not always super eager to reveal TSB's I had a hard starting issue on an intermittant basis and advisor DID pull up a TSB only because he had done some reading about it on his own. Had he not known this, the issue would have continued unless the event was duplicated in the shop...hard to do when intermittant. It was an electrical interference malfunction that was quickly solved once cause and procedure was 'sourced' from FoMoCo documents.

    Good luck.
  • podpod Member Posts: 176
    The car is unchanged from its new condition, is quiet and economical (average mpg mixed=31.1) and I would enthusiastically recommend the Fusion/Milan. No problems, no repairs, no remorse. With incentives, etc. they are not an expensive car in the I-4 configuration and actually compete pricewise with many of the moderately equipped compacts.
    Good engineering nod to the Ford workforce.
  • desgnrdesgnr Member Posts: 19
    I have a 2010 Mercury Milan which i purchased new.
    It only has 13,000 miles on it.

    I already had the ACM unit replaced on the radio after 4 visits to the Dealership.

    Next while in for an oil change the dealer told me i needed a left LED Parking light.
    Which he ordered & when i went back to have it replaced he came out & told me now the Right one is not working properly & again he ordered it & said he would have it tomorrow.
    Well after a week i called him & he said it was in,he never called me ,isn't that great service.

    Want to buy a 2010 Mercury Milan ????????????????????????
  • teeman3teeman3 Member Posts: 1
    Yes. I had the same rear brake light problem on my 2010 Milan. It was $400.00 just for the LED light module plus installation charge. I know the car is assembled in Mexico, but the parts must come from China. LED's are supposed to last 10,000 hours minimum. I also had a problem the throttle body assembly. The Milan would almost stall and pressing on the accelorater did nothing. The tach would surge between 400 and 800 rpm. The dealer told me it would cost $1000 for the part plus about $400 for labor. I took the car to a local independent car repair shop and got the part plus the installation and a new air filter for $306. I was out of warranty as the car had 43,000 miles on it. I stuck with the car for 2 more years until its paid off. Other than the above problems, the rides great and I get about 29 mpg on the 4 cylinder engine. I don't know if I would by a Fusion as a replacement. Depends on how the Milan runs for the next 2 years.
  • podpod Member Posts: 176
    No problems. Lots to like. Last seven tankfuls average over 32 mpg (measured) in mostly residential mixed driving. On the highway at 67 mpg (in R.I. and SE Ma. where the terrain is mostly flat) I tickle the 38 mpg number on the trip computer usually ending up in the high 37s.
    I drive faster than the traffic for the most part but accelerate modestly to speed. I do not believe there are any significant changes to the I4 in the subsequent model years. My results are about 5 mpg over the EPA estimates and represent "normal" driving but with modest acceleration to speed and sparing use of the brakes, coasting to decelerate whenever possible. After two years I still consider it a new car and it feels like one.
  • hsmith1hsmith1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2010 Mercury Milan and I had the left rear tail light replaced under warranty at 30,000 miles and now the other tail light needs to be replaced too . . now not under the mfg warranty and not covered by the extended warranty either. If an LED light assembly is going to be used in a car which costs $400 to replace, logic would say that this would be covered under a warranty. Call Ford to complain 800-392-3673 option 1 and option 5 and report this as an issue. I called today and maybe this will help me and future people experiencing this issue. Complete BS!
  • desgnrdesgnr Member Posts: 19
    I also have a 2010 Milan Premier with 17,000 miles
    I was in for service & the tech said i needed the right rear LED & he ordered it & when i came in to have it replaced they said now i also need the left rear LED which had to be ordered & i came back again.
    This must be a problem with Mercury.
    You can use this post to show them you are not the only one & they are defective.
    Good luck.
  • bigtbigt Member Posts: 412
    Well 73k on my Hybrid and still loving it. The only previous repair was the speedometer that failed. Now I have a left rear break light that is comes on when the lights are on. So at night one side is brighter than the other. The solution I am told is to replace the entire assembly. Parts are $490 with 20 bucks in labor. Yikes what happen to just replacing a bulb! I do wonder could it be electrical!
  • bigtbigt Member Posts: 412
    Say has anyone updated their Milan Hybrid Navigation system? Are new updates availiable? I ordered one a few years ago and no one at Ford knew how to update it. They thought it was like the Lincoln but no one knew how to open it up. If you just put the DVD in it said it could not read it. Any ideals or thoughts on this? I have 73k miles on it and plan to keep it a few more years.
  • keyboardroadkeyboardroad Member Posts: 1
    All:

    I traded my 2011 Prius for the 2010 Mercury Milan Hybrid and I am so glad I did. Those &^*^ seats in the prius were killing my back. But I digress.

    This car only has 8000 miles on it, so I want to make sure everything is working before the dealer warranty expires.

    Here's the problem - maybe. And I say maybe, as maybe it is supposed to do this.

    When I am driving with my lights on, I notice that the dashboard will go dim, then bright, then dim.

    Does the dashboard have some auto sensing device that changes the display according to ambient light? I haven't seen that in the manual, so I'm thinking there is something go astray in the dashboard, and I would like to get it fixed.

    Thanks for any help/comments.

    Eddie
  • schooverschoover Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2010 Milan V6. My dash lights and navigation screen dim at dusk, or when going into a tunnel or overpass, but thats the only time. I wish it didnt though.
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