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HOPE YOU ARE KIDDING. THESE 6.0 FORDS ARE THE BIGGEST BOAT ANCHORE'S WE HAVE EVER OWNED. I HAVE BEEN A FORD GUY ALL MY LIFE UNTIL RIGHT AFTER I PURCHASED THIS LAST FORD F350 WITH THE 6.0 05. I HAVE VOWED NEVER TO PURCHASE ANOTHER NEW FORD PERIOD. FORD AND INTERNATIONAL NEW WHAT THEY WERE DOING. AND WHAT THEY ARE STILL DOING. THE OLD 7.3 HAD 20 HEAD BOLTS ON EACH SIDE, THE 6.0 HAS 10 HEAD BOLTS ON EACH SIDE. WAIT A MINUTE, THEY TURN THE 6.0 600-800 RPM MORE AND PUT OUT 60-80 HP MORE THAN THE OLD 7.3. TAKE THE 7.3 SIZE DOWN TO 6.0. LET'S TAKE HALF THE HEAD BOLTS OUT SO THEY DON'T LAST AS LONG AS THE 7.3.
MY 6.0, 1ST TIME, 18,000 MILES, NEW HEADS. 2ND TIME 38,000 MILES, NEW HEADS, THIS TRUCK HAS BEEN IN THE SHOP 9 TIMES. 4 OF WHICH, THEY CLAIMED NOT TO KNOW WHAT IS GOING ON. EXCUSES AFTER EXCUSES. LAST TIME, 98,000 MILES, NOT KNOWN WHY IT USES WATER AND DOESN'T BOOST LIKE IT USED TO. AND ALSO, AFTER NORMAL RUNNING, PULLING A TRAILER, SHUT ENGINE OFF, AFTER 20 MINUTES OF NOT RUNNING, ENGINE WILL BURN COOLANT OUT THE EXHAUST. WHITE SMOKES FOR ABOUT 1 MINUTE AND STOPS SMOKING. CHECK WATER LEVEL, USES VERY LITTLE. I SUSPECT A SENSOR IN THE COOLANT SYSTEM. NO WATER IN OIL, NO OIL IN WATER, EVERY 5,000 MILES USES MAYBE 1 QUART OF WATER. IF ANYBODY KNOWS WHAT SENSOR OR WHAT TO CHECK OR REPLACE, WOULD YOU PLEASE LET ME KNOW.... RANDY SIMS
TRINIDAD, TEXAS
832-293-2430
HIPOFOMOCO@YAHOO.COM
THIS TRUCK WAS PURCHASED TO WORK ONLY. IF I WANTED A RIDE I WOULD RIDE MY 69 CHEVELLE OR 28 FORD ROADSTER OR 77 CHEVY 4X4.
I BOUGHT MY WIFE A NEW DODGE P/U AND THEY CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER FREE. TAKE HER SHOPPING AND GAVE US 3/36000 AND A LIFETIME WARRANTY ON THE POWER TRAIN.
FORD AND INTERNATIONAL NEW THIS 6.0 WAS A STEPPING STONE TO REACH WHAT CHEVY HAS ALREADY ACHIEVED. THE 2012 EMISSIONS RULES. FORD STOPPED USING THE 6.0 EARLY AND STARTED USING THE 6.4 EARLIER THAN EXPECTED. I HEARD ABOUT THE LAWSUITE ALSO.
I CALLED INTERNATIONAL AND TOLD ME IN THE DESIGN OF THIS 6.0 ENGINE WAS TORQUE TO YEILD HEADBOLT. ONE TIME USE HEAD BOLTS. I PURCHASED A SET OF ARP HEAD BOLTS THAT CERTAINLY HOLD ALOT MORE PRESSURE THAN THE ORIGINALS. 10 HEAD BOLTS JUST IS NOT ENOUGH TO HOLD THIS KIND OF PRESSURES. 22/23 TO 1.
MY 69 CHEVELLE 498 CU INCH HAS 13 TO 1 COMPRESSION AND IT HAS 838 HP ON DYNO AND ALOT MORE HEAD BOLTS PER SIDE. ALMOST DOUBLE THE AMOUNT. FORD 6.0 HAS 325 HP - - - BIGGEST BOAT ACHORE YET.....
STAY TUNED - I HAVE SAID MY PRAYERS THAT FORD GOES OUT OF BUSINESS.....
It was not an option it comes standard. When facing the truck from the front on the Drivers side look in the far right Hole of the Bumper and it should be in there or look behind the Grill above that area, I know some people will re-run the plug for easier access to it. Now you can also Track it down, Crawl under the Drivers Side and on the back of the Motor where the Freeze Plugs normally are one of them is replaced with the Heater Block Plug, The Plug should be and Orange Plug and the Wire should follow the Frame out to the Front of the Truck.
Good Luck , Hope that Helps
Tony
I have a 1999 F-350 Diesel Powerstroke had same problem as you could not wait for Ford to order part so I went down to the local parts house and bought some 1/4" brake line tubing, an inexpensive flaring and bending tool. For approximately $50 I was able to make a new line reusing the ends of the old line. To this day I haven't had any more problems with that line. I didn't bother to put the holding bracket that rubbed the original hole in the old line back on. The bends may not be the same on the new line as the stock line but I have 329,000 on my truck and it is still running strong. I had it up and running in less than three hours.
I bought it in May 2008 and it had been running for over an hour when I first test drove it, so I did not see a problem until starting it cold the next day...it ran well upon test driving it when the engine had been warm and running for a while...I drove towards Pennsylvania...the next morning, in Tennessee, I started it when it was cold...it started up fine but immediately was idling rough as it was "surging" high and low in rpms in idle without my pressure on the accelerator pedal, until it idled for about 5 min and the engine was fully warmed...it had no power when trying to accelerate unless the engine was warmed past the first line on the temp guage....since this problem happened in May 2008 the weather was not really cold in the morning or during the day...this first happened in Tennessee, and this "surging" idle continued on my trip through to Pennsylvania, Kansas, and my Colorado destination, so likely not location or altitude change problems...the loss of power after starting and immediately trying to drive it is amazing...it always barely moves with full throttle until the engine was/is fully warm enough...this happened all summer and continues...
So in June 2008 I replaced the fuel filter, changed the oil, and in October 2008 I changed the drivers bank of glow plugs but the old plugs tested fine...took it to a shop in August 2008 and codes 261 and 266 came up...the mechanic, who has owned Dodge cummings diesels, told me I needed fuel injectors, and recommended I try some diesel fuel injector cleaner, specifically the Chevron Techron...I used the Techron for 5 tank fulls, then a bottle of Lucas, and others...still no change in the idling problems or cold engine loss of power...I did not replace the injectors yet...from may through now I have never plugged in the engine block heater and I always park it outdoors overnight...It always started without problems from May through October 2008 but always idled rough with "surging" rpms when cold after every start....until one day in October 2008 when it took an extra long time to fire up when starting...then during the idling warmup period it stalled on its own and then it would not fire up again to idle....as I attempted to start it I caused the battery go low trying to turn it over, and then the glow plug "wait to start" dash light failed to come on....so I stopped trying to start it and hooked up trickle chargers to the 2 batteries and waited a day to fully charge the batteries...upon trying to start it again, the 30 amp fuse immediately kept blowing and did so at least 15 times trying to start it and waiting for the glow plug light to come on....it seems that the battery strength is linked to the glow plug dash light and 30 amp fuse blowing....the truck would not start for 5 weeks...I towed it to an indoor heated work garage...put the battery on a trickle charge until fully charged and let it sit there for weeks....I ws told by a diesel mechaninc that I may have a short in the wiring causing the 30 amp fuse to keep blowing...with the battery fully charged I put a new fuse in it, the glow plug dash light "wait to start" light came on again, and the truck started...but the engine idled again with a surged up and down in rpms unless I gave it a quick increase on the accelerator pedal...I shut it down and did not drive it but left the battery on a trickle charge...I started it again a few days later running it all day last Wednesday...it again initially ran with low power until the engine was fully heated...it started up all day a few times after I shut down the engine and without a lengthy crank as long as the engine was still warm when starting...I got home, parked it outside, and the next morning it would only starter would only crank but the engine would not fire up...it was cold weather...the glow plug dash light "wait to start" was still coming on...I cranked it a few times then quit trying to start it...yesterday evening, after a warm outdoor 60 degree temperature day, I tried to start it but the dash light "wait to start" light was not coming on...I checked the 30 amp fuse and it was burnt out...I put a new one in and then turned the ignition forward to look for the "wait to start" dash light but heard the fuse blow before cranking...the glow plug dash light does not come ona s long as this fuse keeping burning out...so does anyone have any ideas as to what this problem is??? I am considering purchasing new fuel injectors but I wonder if is is really something else causing the problems....Sorry for the lengthy description but I felt it is necessary in order to get an adequate diagnosis...the codes 261 and 266 relate to the injectors, but seem to indicate electrical related.
Here is my email, Atpraterexc1 at aol com, email me and I can give you my number it will be a lot quicker and I may be able to help you without a lot of cost. I don't work full time and not going to charge you shop rates just to help you get your truck runnnig. One question I do have is have you ever replaced the Glow Plug Relay on your tuck ? It's located next to the Fuel Filter on top the motor.
Tony
this will give info on how to check glo plugs and relay
Butt on in dude or dudette, lol. Have you ever had the system scanned by a shop with a good scanner ? With out seeing your truck it's kind of a guess game as too where to start but it almost sounds like a Sensor of some type. Have you ran a Test on your Glow Plug Relay or Glow Plugs them self ?
Tony
Tony
any new news on the diesel?? I have a 1999 ford f250 w/7.3..I bought the truck about 5 months ago... never had any problems, but last week It was about 30 degrees outside ( cold for us in dallas) the truck started and I let it warm up for 10 minutes.. i drove for about 15 more mins. and it died.. the wait for start light was not on..would not start.. i towed it to my mechanic.. the #30 fuse was blown.. put a new fuse in checked everything started fine and no problems for about a week the weather has been warm until this morning.. the fuse blew and wouldnt start?? i am thinking the fuel heater?? or the gp relay?? any thoughts would be helpfulll...thanks , Eric :
Tony
Yes, I was going to check the glow plugs and the relays in the next few days and see what that tells me, but several other people with the #30 fuse blowing alot of times is the fuel heater that has a short in it....I am just wondering why i never have a problem unless we get a cold snap.....30 degrees or so... thanks, I will let you know about the glow plugs and the glow plug relay tests..I have read the forum from front to back and tony you seen like your pretty sharp when it comes to working on these things.. I just refuse to take it to a dealer and don't know anyone who will work on a powerstroke in dallas, texas... where are you from tony?? if you have any recommendations they are always appreciated...thanks, Eric
a. Is it the HPOP?
b. Is it the check valve in the block?
c. With the HPOP costing $500, I need to know if there is any way to check the system to find out definitely that is the problem before expending that kind of money. I don’t want to just replace it unless I am confident that is the only issue.
d. As noted in the Ford 1999 F-Super Duty F-250, F350, F450, & F-550 Workshop Manual, could my problem be with Item 35 & 36 seat and ball kit, Item 37, 38, 39 Oil Pump Relief Valve Spring, Oil Pump Relief Valve Plug & the O-Ring Seal? (Pg 303-01C-5 & 6)
It just seems to me like a check value on something has a leak. Any assistance, thoughts, lessons learned, or trouble shooting ideas will be greatly appreciated.
Did you have the OD off prior while driving with the trailer on ? Also if you was just hauling a car trailer & car on it you don't have to uninstall your Superchips, I run the same Programmer & yes I know they say you should take it out of HP Mode but I have a Gooseneck trailer that I pull with a 8500# Bobcat and a total weight of 14000# I am towing and never change my setting. It's always on Max, lol. You have a dumbie light on the dash board that will come on if you start pushing it to hard, ( which I have done ) now if you keep trying to push it when that comes on then you can cause some damage but the truck should also power down if it's running to hot. So any way if you did have the OD off when towing you have just blown a Fuse, Relay or maybe a wire came lose under the truck. If the Wire to the Button on the Shifter broke it's very easy to till, there is like 2 or 3 screws that keep the Steering Colum on, un screw them and check the wire, they usually break right where the little black rubber deal is, you will see what I am talking about once you pull off that cover.
Hopefully that helps if not just email back and we can go from there, also on that Programmer you can run a scan to check for Codes of course it's not like or as good as a Shop but it might show something. On the Codes though if you pull one I think it's P0285 and it's something about the #8 Injector don't worry about it as you probably had the new Cam Censor put on and for some reason that Code comes up now, unless your truck is running rough don't worry about that Code.
Tony
Another unhappy customer
muffler and tailpipe off and didn't put anything back. The higher you rev it the better it sounds, no good for MPG though.