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Ford F-Series Powerstroke Diesel Problems

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Comments

  • gerlad1gerlad1 Member Posts: 22
    I have a 2004 F250 6.0 liter engine 4x4 crew cab and have always gotten what I think is poor fuel economy. about 15mpg at 70mph on highway with no load (and a tail wind).. Never had a problem with power. About 2 years ago I bought a superchips programmer hoping to boost fuel ecoomy--no help -in fact--appears to get less fuel economy no matter what power setting. Have updated the programmer on-line and tried the "new" economy setting and it defitintely gets lower fuel economy than "stock". I now find I have a $300+ code reader. Anyone with positive experience with these things? Under warranty I have had my head gaskets, turbo, egr valve, egr cooler replaced--helped the engine run but nothing seems to help fuel economy. Also installed a K & N air filter--no help with this also on fuel economy. Typically use my truck on the highway at 70-75 mph. No hot rodding. Obviously fuel economy improves to 17 if I want to drive 60mph on the highway. Truck starts and runs fine after warranty repairs,, just fuel economy sucks. BTW, also tried a cat converter by=pass pipe.. This was the only thing that seemed to help.
    Any other thoughts on programmers or fuel economy with these 6.0 mistakes?
    Gerald
  • lloyd57lloyd57 Member Posts: 1
    07 f350superduty 6.2 crew cab long box screen comes up and beeps and says water in fuel where is the drain at on it also the belt that drives pulleys squeals i had 3 belts put on it and a new tenchen pulley on it.">link title
  • renoguyrenoguy Member Posts: 2
    My problem started about 5 mos. ago two days after getting truck back from having the tranny rebuilt. Now it won't start 15-20 min. after I have driven it, stopped and try and restart it. I have to wait at least 1 hour before it will start. I have just replaced the senors on the tranny (but this does not seem to be problem). I have had it to dealer twice now and they have scoped it and nothing shows up. Both batteries are brand new, new turbo charger, tank is always full, and oil changed every 2500 miles. Fuel filters changed every 5000miles. Frustration level is making me crazy....if anyone out there has any solutions or advise, please, please e-mail me at reno_guy@telus.net.
    or post to this site.
    Thanks
  • renoguyrenoguy Member Posts: 2
    With all the reading on the net I do would the icp sensor have any thing to do with my problem .renoguy
  • mrgreenthumbmrgreenthumb Member Posts: 1
    I have a '96 Powerstroke that starts nicely when it's cold, but drive it for 30 minutes, turn it off, and it won't start again until it cools down.
    It behaves as if there's not a drop of fuel in the tank.
    my mechanic replaced the high pressure oil pump, said it lost pressure when hot, but that didn't solve the problem.
    Any ideas?
  • johnboy57johnboy57 Member Posts: 6
    I had the same thing happen on my '05 6.0 and what it finally boiled down to was the O-ring/seal on the main oil pick up tube {this is the one on the back of the motor that picks up the oil from the crankcase and sends it to the injectors to build the pressure to at least 425 lbs. [or there abouts] THEN allows the injectors to open and spray fuel} was bad causing a lesser amount of oil pick-up. When that was replaced -- we had well over the minimum oil pressure and the truck would once again start.
    As a test, you might try thicker oil or adding some Lucas etc. to your oil to increase it's viscosity.
    Hope this helps.
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Does it happen as much as when u first change the Oil and what kind of Oil are you running ?
  • mandi41986mandi41986 Member Posts: 6
    My 1999 ford F350 7.3 diesel is turning over but not starting, In march under a recall I had the cam shaft positioning sensor replaced, now its obviously not under warranty, but I also Dont know what wrong with it, Also the Alternator has been replaced on this truck 3 times and the thing works for a bit but I just replaced it 3 weeks ago and occasionally the battery light is coming on, the battery is throwing the right voltage... has anyone had these simiar problems??
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Hey Mandi,
    Yes I did with my Alternator, follow your leads coming off it as somewhere on one of them its grounding out on the motor. The cable will rub through down to the wire and short out the Alternator. As far as starting it could be a number of things. It could be bad Oil, old Oil or not the right type of oil. It could be the O-rings, I just got a set for my 7.3 and need to replace them this weekend. Does it do it as much when you first change your oil ? IF it does not give you a hard time after you just changed your oil then more than likely its your O-Rings on the Injectors. hopefully you are using Shell Oil in your truck, if not change it out to Shell also under 150,000 miles you can go 5000 miles and if over 150,000 you should be changing it every 3000 miles.

    Hopefully that helps,

    Tony
  • outlawdieseloutlawdiesel Member Posts: 12
    I believe you can google lemon law or ford warranties and there are alot of write ups on
    6.0 blown egr coolers and head gaskets problems. you can find out what channels they went to get their problem solved, worse comes to worse you can check us out here at outlawdiesel.net .
    p.s
    go to other dealer because exhaust and intakes should not have warranty issues
    only tuner have warranty issues. :)
  • outlawdieseloutlawdiesel Member Posts: 12
    edited June 2010
    change your cam sensor the blue one is the best but very $$$ the black will do /napa
  • outlawdieseloutlawdiesel Member Posts: 12
    need to replace EGR Cooler and oil cooler.save some money and do a EGR delete.
  • outlawdieseloutlawdiesel Member Posts: 12
    If its a 7.3 power stroke it's right next to the oil filter and the oil filter is on the oil cooler housing,look for orange cord,trace it to the grill.if its not there.if it's not there should be pluged,but there she be.
  • outlawdieseloutlawdiesel Member Posts: 12
    Hows your glow plugs and Soldnoid? are you getting white smoked? or it could also be your IPR Valve O-ring is gone and not building up high pressure oil to fire your injectors.
    a scanner would help
  • mandi41986mandi41986 Member Posts: 6
    for the responses, regarding my 7.3 diesel not starting, I tested the batteries, one is completly dead the other ones running on 12volts, So I am replacing them and hopefully that fixes the problem, But tracing the wires will be the next step!!
  • dglasscockdglasscock Member Posts: 9
    Check the glow plug relay, the wait to start indicator comes from the relay, it may not be getting any power to the relay, since the engine is not starting, it sounds like the glow plugs aren't getting any power. There should be a 30 amp fuse for the glow plugs. Check the fuse, if it is good check the relay and see if it is getting the power. To check the relay, there should be 5-15 ohms of resistance across the relay coil Remove the power wire from the relay prior to checking for resistance, otherwise you may read resistance across the wiring system or get 12 volts to the ohm meter, either way you will get erroneous readings or ruin the meter. You can check the wait to start light but if the engine isn't starting that tells me the glow plugs aren't getting power.
  • bgdg66bgdg66 Member Posts: 2
    My truck stalled while pulling up to a redlight. Engine would turn over, but not start. I changed fuel filters. No change. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.
  • rompiscatolerompiscatole Member Posts: 1
    I have a 7.3 2002 diesel F350 which stalled while driving and would turn over but not start right away. After waiting several hours on level it started, but stalled again and won't start again etc... Has anyone figured out the problem? The glow plug theory sounds accurate, but before doing unnecessary work, I'd like to know if someone has figured it out...

    Thank you!!
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    It could be a couple things but start with the Cam Sensor, you should have gotten a Factory Recall on it. Then Make sure your Oil is full, not old n the right oil (Shell Rotela ) it should be change every 3000 miles if over a 100,000 on the truck. Does the Fuel n Air Filter get changed every 3000 to 5000 as well ? Fuel Pump putting out 50psi ?
  • tslovetslove Member Posts: 1
    I have had numerous problems with my early 2003 6.0 powerstroke engine, the latest being that the turbo had to replaced at just over 100,000 miles. That was only a few weeks ago, and now the engine is running like crap again...will not hardly accelerate either from a dead stop or while underway. Has Ford stepped up to the plate to take care of any of the problems I am having and keep hearing about relative to this particular engine. I have owned six Ford trucks to date and have been happy with all of them until this vehicle...not sure if I will purchase another Ford truck again, and certainly not a Ford diesel engine.
  • nikkilam3nikkilam3 Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 2004 F 350 POWERSTROKE DIESEL 6.0. IT IS BLOWING WHITE SMOKE OUT OF THE TAILPIPE. WE HAVE FIXED 5 INJECTORS, AND WERE TOLD THIS COULD BE THE OIL COOLER OR EGR COOLER. I'M WONDERING IF THESE PARTS CAN BE LOOKED AT WITHOUT TAKING OUT THE MOTOR. WE BROUGHT THIS TO FORD TO FIX AN INJECTOR AND THEY SENT IT BACK TO US NOT RUNNING BECAUSE THEY WANTED $2500 JUST TO PULL THE MOTOR. WE NOW HAVE IT RUNNING AND IT RUNS OK BUT THE WHITE SMOKE IS VERY BAD. COULD THIS BE A HEAD GASKET?
  • donavuerdonavuer Member Posts: 2
    Sounds like the EGR valve. It went out in mine and I am told it goes out in these engine every 60,000 miles.
  • rodesignerrodesigner Member Posts: 20
    I have a starting problem with my 2000 f250 diesel. The dealer has been unable to fix. when I turn on the key to start the glow plugs and when the glow plug light goes out I then turn the key to start the engine. It behaves as if the battery is almost deal and just barely turns over the engine and in some cases stops. I just put in two brand new Ford Motor Craft 600+ cold start amp batteries I think (your largest/best). even with the new batterys it still behaves the same. Now after it behaves this way, I than recycle the glow plugs again and then when I try to start the engine the starter motor spins the motor over fast and it will start. This has been going on for several years with the old battries and the brand new ones I just put in the truck. The truck has not been driven hard and has 36,889 some miles on it. It does this once in the day and won't repeat this for a day or more of sitting, HELP The dealer has tried all the usual things, but can't figure it out.
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Have they traced the Battery cables to see if its grounding out on the motor n check the Starter because thats what it sounds like. I had a loose post on my Starter n a Grounding problem with the Alternator that was causing me a big head ache.
  • dannosdannos Member Posts: 7
    Well my 2008 F350 did it again. It left me stranded again in the parking lot of Lowe's. I started it and it immediately died. I tried to start it but no luck! I tried a few other times and it finally started but there was a little wrench lit up on the instrument panel. I looked it up in my owner's manual and it said that I would loose power (and I did). I have a piece of crap for a truck. I am looking at the new 6.7 but I hate to be a guinea pig all over again. Any word about the 6.7? I'm thinking about jumping ship. Hello, GM.
  • rodesignerrodesigner Member Posts: 20
    I don't understand how it could be a problem with the battery cable grounding or the starter when it only happens one time a day after the first time the glow plug light goes out and it starts fine after the second time the glow plug light goes out and the previous unsucessful start, as well as starting fine the rest of the day. when it has set over night and longer it starts the problem all over. By the way for those who had a problem with the engine dieing while driving even after the cam sensor was replaced on recall. mine did and it was finally tracked to the computer that controls the injectors. Pretty spendy to replace that black module.
  • hdh2hdh2 Member Posts: 2
    I BOUGHT 2011 F350 DIESEL VIN 1FT7W3BT3BEA01851, 4100 MILES ON IT USED 5 QTS OIL, TRANS. STUTTERS, CANT GET IT FIXED, NO PARTS AVAILABLE. CUST. SERVICE USELESS. LOUSY MILEAGE 8 TOWING 16 AT 55 MPH CRUISE CONTROL LEVEL EMPTY. "DO NOT BUY THIS TRUCK"
  • sootblowersootblower Member Posts: 1
    Your problem is the EGR cooler, coolant is leaking into the intake manifold and turbo and blowing out the exhaust. When bad enough you will have a loss of power. The coolant tank on top of the engine should be full. It can lead to blown head gaskets and is expensive to repair, about $3500.00. Been there and done that. (sootblower)
  • efnicksefnicks Member Posts: 4
    edited July 2010
    wow, I was hoping good things for the new engine.. I will definately wait and see at least till they get the bugs out.. they sound like that truck is the best thing since sliced bread, I think i will hold on to my 1999 f250 7.3L with 160,000 for a while more and not get a new one..
  • outlawdieseloutlawdiesel Member Posts: 12
    on a 6.0 first thing to do is get a scanner on it and do a freeze frame as she is messing up so you can see whats going on with that motor at that time
    but it could just be a dirty fuel filter. :)
  • outlawdieseloutlawdiesel Member Posts: 12
    If your 7.3 just dies as your driving.most of the time its the cam sensor. the blue cam sensor is the best, but it could be a lot of other things too,like IDM,O-ring,ipr or just a fuse,.relay.get a scanner and get to the problem and not throw parts at her.
  • camehl3camehl3 Member Posts: 1
    I am having a similar problem. Where is the electrical connector located?
  • gerlad1gerlad1 Member Posts: 22
    Go back and read my Sept. 9, 2009 post and it has all the details that I know regarding the fix of my stalling out problem of my 6.0 liter engine. This was after several trips to different Ford dealerships. I would suspect that with the part # that is listed in my post,,your Ford dealer could tell you (print out a diagram) of where the connector is located. I thought this was a real "safety issue" with the truck,, but apparently Ford didn't care if the truck went to idle in heavy freeway traffic or in the middle of an intersections. Last Ford diesel for me. As I understood it at the time, apparently with this bad electrical connector, there would either be an indicated low high pressure oil signal,, or actually low oil pressure to the injectors and the computer would cut the flow to make the engine idle. No response whatsoever to accelerator pedal. Ford had previously changed out wired accelerator linkage--but this did not solve the problem. Have never had the problem since the connector was changed out.
    Gerald
  • dek555dek555 Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 1992 Ford F-250 custom . I think I got a good deal on it but I have never owned a diesel before and dont know the first thing about it except the basic maintenance (fuel filter , air cleaner , lube points , etc.) . When I drove the truck it run fine but now 3 days later when i come to a red light or stop sign the Idle drops way down when i stop and more than a few times it has stalled . It started up fine but I dont want to have to drive with 2 feet for the rest of the time I own the truck . Can anyone give me a clue as to where to start ?????
  • dek555dek555 Member Posts: 2
  • mustangman65mustangman65 Member Posts: 3
    1997 7.3 won't startMy 1997 7.3 has been running great until yesterday when it stopped while idling. It restarted without a problem until I got about 100 yards from my home. It stopped and I haven't been able to start it since. My first thought was the cam sensor since I had this problem in the past. I replaced the cam sensor myself today through the recall, thinking this would fix the problem. It still won't start. A quick check of the fuel pump by opening the filter drain and cranking the engine gave me a deluge of fuel, so I think the fuel pump might be ok. the glow plug solenoid is clicking when the key is turned which indicates to me it may be working. I would think this is not the problem, since I tried to start it yesterday when the engine was still at operating temperature. I checked all of the fuses and didn't find any problems there. Any ideas on how to test the high pressure oil pump, short of loosening the fittings? Can anyone tell me if Alldata.com has a decent manual? My Haynes Diesel manual does not help with this problem. If I can rent or borrow a code reader, I may be able to use it to resolve the problem. Does anyone have any experience with this problem, who may be able to give me some ideas what to look for? The truck has 213000 miles on it and up to now has been running great.
  • cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    You check the Voltage coming from the ICP Sensor to see if 1 plus Volt is going back to the Computer, if there is that tells you that you have the 500 psi on the oil system, if you dont get the 1 plus Volt then you might have blown an O-Ring on the Injectors or the Oil Pump it self. To see which Bank is doing okay then you have to cap off the line n plug the head in order to check for an O-Ring n that will also give you a Pressure Reading for the Pump.

    How long ago did you change your oil and is the oil on the dipstick ? The higher the mileage you get on these you really need to change it every 2500 to 3000 miles and make sure you don't have leaks.
  • mustangman65mustangman65 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the tip. I'll check it out. I change the oil about every 3000 miles.
  • mmbastmmbast Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    2004 F250 SD 6.0 DSL- 101,000 Miles
    Will have up ticks in power while driving, will drop to low power mode when making a turn or stopping and accelorator will quit. Only happens when I am running the vehicle for the first time that day. After that, drives perfect at all other times.

    Have had it in two dealerships. Both stated code comes back "low fuel pressure". First dealership changed fuel filters and this worked for awhile. Second dealer "thinks" it needs a new IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator).

    Other forums mention FICM, ICP...........................

    Drove it last night 10 miles to town.....surged up and down the entire ride and was difficult to start after one stop at a store. Had dinner, drove it 10 miles home and it was perfect....
  • carlyncarlyn Member Posts: 1
    We are currently on what was called "vacation." My husband bought his 2010 F250 (6L) in October. It has less than 20,000 miles on it. 3 days before we were supposed to pack up to go home, my husband ran into a real problem. We are staying in a campground (towed our 5th wheeler here) where there is bad internet service. He drove his truck up to the front office so he could pick up WIFI easier to do work. He sat in his truck with the AC on and did his work. Out of no where, the truck simply turned off with no warning messages.

    It was in park when this happened. He tried to immediately re-start, but it was completely dead. Called FORD road side assistance and they sent a tow truck. While waiting for the truck, he again tried repeatedly to start the truck, to no avail.

    Murphy's law, as soon as the tow truck got there, the truck magically started. He shut it off and restarted several times in front of the driver before deciding to let the driver go with our apologies.

    The next day while sitting at a stop light, the truck AGAIN just simply turned off. Would not turn back on. He had to push the truck out of the intersection. The same tow truck guy came and took our truck 45 miles to the closest FORD dealership.

    I'm posting this on a Thursday, and they have had the truck since last Friday. They called us on Friday to say there was nothing wrong with the truck. We told them there certainly was something wrong. They said they ran a diagnostic test and there was an error on the first message, but it disappeared when they ran it again. That there was nothing they could find wrong on the truck.

    Because we are towing with our family, safetly is a concern. We live 4.5 hours from here. My husband inquired if the truck suddenly turned itself off while we were going down the highway, would that effect the breaks. They said yes.

    He said go with what the first error message said and fix it. Safety first.

    They said they'd order the part.

    Of course, the campground needed their site back so we had to hire a tow vehicle to move our 5th wheel to another site in the mean time. We settled into the new spot hoping that we'd be hearing from FORD on Monday that everything was fixed.

    They called on Monday and said they replaced the part that came up as an error, but when they took the steering wheel off, they found another broken part, that they'd have to order. Long story longer, next day the incorrect part came in so that put fixing off by yet another day.

    They finally called yesterday afternoon (Wednesday) to say it was fixed and they were driving it back to us as we speak. 15 minutes later they called to say it turned off again on their driver in route to us and was being towed back to the dealership.

    After a lot of venting (thank you) has anyone out there had this sort of trouble with their F250 diesels? They can't seem to figure it out and we are going broke sitting here waiting.

    Many thanks for your time! cdh
  • diehardforddiehardford Member Posts: 50
    This was told to me by a ford diesel mechanic probably a year or so ago. One of the things ford found out that was causing engine failure was carbon build up in the engines caused by long periods of idling such as electric utility trucks were the workers would be working on the side of the road all day and the engines would be left idling. So now the computer system in these trucks will shut the engines down after about 30 to 45 minutes of idling and will not let the truck re start for either one or two hours after shutting down. I don't remember whether it was one or two he said. He told me if I found myself in a long traffic jam after about 15 0r 20 minutes to try to shut down the engine to reset the timer so it wouldn't die in the middle of traffic and not re start. This would explain at the campground were the engine shut down and would not re start until the tow truck arrived and all at once every thing was fine. How ever this does not explain driving down the road and the engine just cutting off. Try checking your coolant levels . It has been very hot lately and maybe the high temps are triggering the sensors to shut down the truck. But this is just me taking a wild guess. Good luck with problem.
  • rodesignerrodesigner Member Posts: 20
    After I had the cam sensor replaced on recall, I still had the problem with the truck (2000 F250 7.3L)it started shutting down more frequently on the road as well as idling, the Dealership couldn't figure it out. They finally did figure it out though after having it a couple weeks (close to my home). It was the computer module. Was spendy to replace, but no more stalling. By the way, I sent Ford an email about a problem I was having with my truck. Don't waste your time!!! They first send you a "canned" response that in no way applies to your problem. Then when I querried them again they sent a response indicating that absolutely didn't read my post. Their basic canned response is to send you to a dealership. They absolutely do not suggest any solutions from the experts back at the factory.
  • outlawdieseloutlawdiesel Member Posts: 12
    is this a IDI diesel? fuel pump is on the way out,check the psi on the injector pump
  • gwc5gwc5 Member Posts: 1
    I have a similiar situation --have you gotten your truck fixed and if so what fixed it--thanks gwc5
  • ljollyljolly Member Posts: 3
    Randomly nothing but accessories come on when you turn the key on. Batteries are. Now new. All cables and relays have been checked. The dealer replaced the starter be he couldn't find anything else! Sometimes taking off the battery cables and then butting them back on will make it start. It acts like it doesn't know it is in park! We know there is a switch or sensor to tell the engine but where is it? Could it be dirty? Now when. The engine is running, in park the seat belt alarm is going off when no one is there! Related! Please help. This is a problem when traveling and towing
  • olddieselmanolddieselman Member Posts: 2
    In the afternoon, while I'm driving down the road the engine shuts off. The engine starts up when I turn the key so I know it's not a fuel problem. Any suggestions?
  • olddieselmanolddieselman Member Posts: 2
    This is either a computer problem or the nuetral safety switch on the transmission is bad.
  • outlawdieseloutlawdiesel Member Posts: 12
    It sounds like you have a cracked fuel pick up tube in the fuel tank?put a scanner on her as you drive and turn. freeze frame the problem and check for codes and fuel pressure.
  • outlawdieseloutlawdiesel Member Posts: 12
    I dont't know what year your truck is,but if its a 7.3 ? I would say a bad CAM Sensor.
    but year and make would help?
  • baddog1baddog1 Member Posts: 1
    when i start my truck in the morning after sitting all night . it starts fine but if i start accelarateing to hard its is real rough like it has a miss but once it warms up it gose away i have 70,000 on the truck . what do ya,ll think is the cause no light comes on directing me to say something is not right.
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