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Ford F-Series Powerstroke Diesel Problems

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    f250troublef250trouble Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 F-250 diesel has been cutting off on me while running mostly when accelerating. Today it cut off on me and now it wont start. when i wait for the wait to start light to go off and crank it it just sounds like it wont turn over. Before it would cut off and then once i turned it off and re-started it it was fine. Im thinking maybe a cam sensor??? Help I have no idea
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    rodesignerrodesigner Member Posts: 20
    I have the same issue with my 2000 F250 7.3L diesel and this is all happening even though I have the dealer recall cam position sensor replaced as well as a new computer. if you do find the answer please let me know. My truck has been in the shop this time for 1 1/2 weeks so far.
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    tacopusher2tacopusher2 Member Posts: 3
    '99 F250 feels like its being held back in 1st & 2nd, and doesn't really move outta its own way on the highway. Used to have the problem with starting it up and 30 seconds later cutting off.... cam sensor fixed that. new fuel pump. I dont know what to think, its my pop's truck im tryin to help him, I run 350 chevys...... maybe turbo problem? any insight would be greatly appriciated.
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    rodesignerrodesigner Member Posts: 20
    How long ago was the fuel filter (miles) changed?
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    f250_2005f250_2005 Member Posts: 1
    I am original owner of a F250, 6.0, 126K miles and well maintained. I have had a rash of problems in the last weeks including 2 injectors, water and oil pump, high pressure pump, crank shaft sensor, high pressure valve. I just got it back and as I was pulling a trailer it died again. I took it back to the shop and it's scanned code was a crank shaft sensor. It was replaced and when I went to pick it up I didn't make it down the road a 1/2 mile and it died again. The scan code now reads #3 and #5 injector yet the pressure reading is good on each. When the other injectors went out I could still drive the truck. I'm wondering if this may be a computer issue giving false signals. This has become a money for me and unreliable. If anyone has any ideas I'm open as it is yet another day I'm without my truck. Thanks
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    tacopusher2tacopusher2 Member Posts: 3
    We changed the filter almost right when the problems started,
    Then not even a week after that we changed out the pump which was still working
    Next it was the cam sensor because we never took it in for the recall.....
    Its a true mule and I don't wanna trade in for a cummins....
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    rodesignerrodesigner Member Posts: 20
    Here is the latest, (still don't have a solution yet), but after the engine wanting to stall several times while driving and shutting down when I was stopped and the engine was idling, I took it in to the dealership. Now in the past like I said before the cam pos indicator recall was done as well as changing out the computer. The dealer still has it (about 2 weeks) which I don't have a real problem with it, I just want it fixed so I work around the inconvenience anyway the service manager called and said that they managed to get it to stall with the test equip hooked up and supposedly it indicates a bad plug under some sort of cover, valve or something, and I assume he called me because it wasn't a simple procedure to remove the cover ($). I haven't heard from him since.
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    ceh54ceh54 Member Posts: 2
    103000 miles/3000 miles out of warranty! I have started having problems with episodes of truck not starting after getting warm,let it set for a while and it will start (just about the time the tow truck arrives). I have had it in the Dealers shop 2 times now. The first time they replaced a ??? SGR valve,happened again they kept it for 2 days-----checked every thing out,all was ok. I picked up the truck today and wonder when it is going to happen again> Does any one have any ideas or know of a good non dealership diesel mechanic in the Northwest Houston area?. Thanks
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    ceh54ceh54 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info.
    I will keep your post and may give you a call.
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    kellbellkellbell Member Posts: 2
    My o4 diesel started shaking really bad. It sounds like an old diesel(you know the chugga chugga sound). You can really feel it when you are going about 50 and let off the gas. When it down shifts it feels like its going to rattle apart. Also when it is idling. I've heard about the egr valve going bad so I took it off and cleaned it up and put it back on. This helped with power but didnt solve the shaking and running ruff. Any suggestions?
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    jpeeljpeel Member Posts: 1
    have same symptoms. need an ansrew also
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    rodesignerrodesigner Member Posts: 20
    check the electrical connectors under the valve covers.
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    kellbellkellbell Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, I will check and give an update.
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    rodesignerrodesigner Member Posts: 20
    OK, I have my F250 back and I think it is fixed. I will list the problems I had with it. First I noticed that it was hard to start. On the first attempt to start the engine I would wait until the glow plug light would go out and then when I tried to start it, it acted like the battery was going dead even after new batteries. So I would turn off the key then repeat the process. It then would turn over the engine faster and would start. Also BEFORE AND after this all happened I expierenced it wanting to stall as well as out right dying on the freeway prompting me to want to be in the outside lane so I could muscle it to the shoulder (no power stearing and brakes). The Cam position sensor via the recall was changed out, but it kept doing it. Next the Dealer's shop instrumentation finally indicated it was the computer, so that was changed. Then my Son and his family flew up a couple of months ago and I gave him the truck to drive and it started to act up again. At one point it was hard to start and it sounded terible and wouldn't go faster than 45 mph. Then it all started functioning ok in all respects. So One days after I was driving it, it started sputtering and almost felt like something was slamming in/out of gear. This happened when I was very gradually increasing speed when going from a 35mph zone to a 45mph zone. Then a little later when very gradually increasing speed from 60 to 65mph it sputtered again. Then the final thing happened when I had to stop the truck while a large semi worked around a sharp corner at an intersection. While sitting there the engine quit. After a couple tries I got it to start and made the decision to take it to my dealership, The starting problem had seemed up to this point had semi fixed itself. When I took it to the dealership it had sputtered on them and the insturmentation said it was the electrical connectors under the valve covers. It is not an easy task to get to them because of the stuff in the way so they called me and asked if I wanted them to open it up. I said yes. they cleaned the plugs and reseated them. After that they coulding get it to die/sputter on them. The service manager asked me if it would be ok for him to drive it back and forth on his commute to work which is a 45 mile one way. I said absolutely, I wanted to be sure it was fixed and not happen to me especially when out on the freeway pulling my boat. Well it ran great, but the starting thing started to happen again and when he got to the dealership one morning he shut it down while he went and opened up the dealership. WELL, when he went to start it back up, NOTHING. What they found when they started poking/banging arround by the Starter that it started sparking. They replaced the starter and wow, how fast the starter now turns over like I remember it doing when I first got it in Nov1999. I think I now have it all fixed. I HOPE ANYONE WHO GETS THEIR TRUCK FIXED WILL FOLLOW UP ON HERE IF ANYTHING THAT WORKED FOR ME WORKS FOR YOU.
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    bgdg66bgdg66 Member Posts: 2
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    fordhater1fordhater1 Member Posts: 3
    My truck is the same year. It has 50,000 miles on it and I am the second owner. It was 3 months out of warrenty and ford said its my problem all $3000.00 dollars worth. The problem is common and its a pressure leak in the high pressure oil start that opens fuel injectors. There is a fitting in the back of motor that allows the oil to leak back down and the truck won't start till engine tolorances cool back and oil viscosity returns to cold. Normally 4 hours. I will never buy another Ford again. Ford does not take care of problems they know are many just because I am not the original owner. I will never be a Found On Road Dead (FORD) again !!!
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    11raymond9011raymond90 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2007 F-350 with 104,000 mile on it. My warranty was for 100,000 miles. The engine started over heating and would not hold coolent for more then 30 minutes. The truck ended up breaking down and there was no saving it. I needed a new engine. I had it in less then a year ago for the same over heating issue while it was under warranty and supposidly Ford had fixed the problem. Odviously not.. Fremont Motors (where the truck is) wants $14,336.50 for the new engine. Today your lucky if your Ford diesel makes it to 100,000 miles.

    On another note it is part of a fleet. Our company has purchased over 30 vehicals from Ford in the Last 25 years. Lately we purchased four new 2007 F-450 diesels and every single one of them has had problems. There used to be a day when a Ford diesel would last forever. Not anymore. Our company has been more then dissappointed in Ford and plan to never buy another for years to come.

    Anyone that has the same story I do or any problems with the 6.0 L engine I would love to hear about it. I am dealing with Ford on the coverage of a new engine and anything that will help prove there is something wrong with there 6.0 engines will help prove my point. I would really appreciate it. Thank you.
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    rodesignerrodesigner Member Posts: 20
    Isn't that why Ford stopped making that engine and one later before they settled on the current engine?
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    cableguyrobertcableguyrobert Member Posts: 3
    Just purchased 95 F350 7.3 diesel xlt, this truck sat for 2 years due to blown trans, I got truck to start, but it won't stay running unless you pump the gas pedal - it won't hold a steady rpm. The wait to start light always blinks even when running. 1st diesel owned. Any suggestions?">
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    nano9nano9 Member Posts: 4
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    nano9nano9 Member Posts: 4
    i may have air in fuel line and i need to change filter but don't know how please help.
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    rodesignerrodesigner Member Posts: 20
    fuel filter and electrical plugs located under the valve covers and look for any shorted wiring around the engine as a result of wear. Also if your throttle is like my 2000 7.3, it is electrical rather than the old mechanical.
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    nano9nano9 Member Posts: 4
    ran out of fuel and i think i got air in fuel line and i want to change the fuel filter but don't know how to prime the filter or get the air out please help.
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    cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    Its been a long time since I owned that type of truck but that just has the Filter kind of near the Alternator right ? If so just take the Filter off n fill it up with fuel, you might have to do more than once.
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    rodesignerrodesigner Member Posts: 20
    take the top of the filter off and have someone turn on the key while you watch.
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    badlucktruckbadlucktruck Member Posts: 1
    Hi there!
    I too have 2006 F250 6.0L engine problems. The EGR valve (and the EGR cooler the 2nd time) 3 times under warranty. Also the 4th and 5th time Ford covered it after some long drawn out conversations with Ford customer service. This is the 6th time at around 160,000 and the EGR valve problem has taken out the EGR cooler and Oil Cooler and the estimate is beginning at $2,900!!
    FCS (FORD) will not accept responsibility this time for the ongoing problem, so I've contacted the Better Business Beareau, Federal Dept. of Transportation(NHTSA), and the Federal Transit Authority, etc...

    I filed a complaint with NHTSA and just finished speaking with a representative, who told me that my complaint was escalated to a higher authority.

    I was told that if more people with the 2006 6.0L diesel engine, whether it's F250, F350, F450, Excursion diesel, or E-series call this # to report a complaint it will help to get this engine recalled!

    This is good news. Possibly the engine will need to be replaced or at a stretch(my opinion) maybe the vehicle itself.
    Please have all the people you know are whom experiencing problems with the 2006 6.0L engine to
    call this # 1-888-327-4236. It's called a "Safety Complaint," but they'll file it under "Defects Complaints."

    You have to dial the 1 before 888 to get to the right #, as I tried the first few times and it had a recording saying "...press *to get more info on this # sent via text..." which means you don't have the right #.

    Should anyone like to contact me for links on all websites to register complaints, my e-mail is cgwsmiley2003@yahoo.com and have them put FORD in the subject line so I find it.
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    huntnfishhuntnfish Member Posts: 1
    I have a 7.3L in my 2002 Excursion. 331K original miles. My engine started the no plug-in overnight no start in the morning problem about 6 months ago. I replaced all the glo plugs much earlier at 305K. If I forget to plug-in over night the engine will start if I plug-in for 30-45 minutes. Slow start, lots of smoke and it takes 10-12 miles till it's running at acceptable power levels and has a good sound. The dealership deisel mechanic is leaning towards injector replacement. However, he has no specific evicence that the replacement will solve the problem. About 6K ago I started adding the Lucas diesel addative trying to clean-up the injectors. I'd like to analyze this with the group to achieve a difinitive fix-up. I talked with a guy over Memorial Day fishing on Lake Erie. He said he had the same problem with one of his 7.3's and he replaced the glo plug relay as his fix-up. I replaced the glo plug relay in June for $ 225 with no success. Is the no plug-in ---- no start-up one of the symptoms of the impending engine re-build? Anyone had a similar experience? Anyone solve this problem without an engine re-build? What is the relationship between the short term "plug-in" and as "start-up"? What is the relationship between 7-9 hours of no running and the plug-in? I find it hard to believe it's a matter of engine temperature. It can be 70 - 74 degrees out side over night and the engine still won't start unless its' plugged-in. It appears to be more of a no run "time" relationship than a no run "temperature" relationship. (i.e. No run time for 7-9 hours + no plug-in = no start, then, short duration plug-in = rough start and slow heat-up). Has anyone exerienced this?
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    rodesignerrodesigner Member Posts: 20
    I don't have to plug in my engine where I live, but let me tell you what I expierenced on my F250 7.3L. Maybe it will give you an idea. I also would like to hear what you did to fix it.
    When I turn on the key and tried to start my truck when the "wait to start" light went out, it sounded just like the battery was almost dead and would hardly turn over, some times actually stopping. Before that for a long time the starter motor didn't turn over the engine very fast. Anyway what I would did was cycle the glo plugs a second time then start it. I even put in new batteries, the best I could get. That second time it didn't sound like the old "dead battery" symptom that so many of us have heard, and even though not turning over very fast like when I bought the truck, but it still started. In the past I had the truck studder and quit while on the hyway and had the cam position sensor recall done as well as paying thru the nose to change the computer. But I still had the starting problem as well as an occasional studdering as well and one day, for a while, it would hardly run or go over 45mph and had no power. well that corrected itself until it started to studder as well as die again. I took it to the dealership and left it with them where each day they would start it and drive it trying to get it to repeat the problem with test equip attached. It finally did it and the test equip said it was electrical connectors under the valve cover for glow plugs and what not. They asked me if I wanted them to check the plugs (because it was expensive to get to them) I gave them a go ahead and they cleaned and reseated the plugs. They still weren't sure this would totally fix the problem so I let them keep it. The service manager asked me if he could drive it home at night which was 40+ miles one way and I said sure. well one morning when he got to the dealership and turn off the engine to go unlock the building, when he went to re start it, IT WOULD NOT START. Finally, so they started poking around under the engine and got a lot of sparks from the starter motor. I had also previously asked them to check out the wiring around the engine block to see if any of the insulation was worn off and shorting out and check the "gas" peddle wiring since it is electrical now a days. The starter motor was replaced and wow it really turns over fast (unlike the last 7 or 8 years of slow turning over) and no more starting problems as well as still no more stuttering and shutting down.
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    mushpupmushpup Member Posts: 2
    check heat element coil in bottom of fuel filter bowl could have short or burned out my started when pluged in also till i replaced lar
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    cowboy9cowboy9 Member Posts: 161
    See if it does as bad just after changing the Oil, if not it's usually the O-Rings on the Injectors. O- Rings are cheap ( 76.00 Pensacola Diesel ) but changing them is kind of a pain.
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    farm_livinfarm_livin Member Posts: 1
    My ford will turn over, and when we do get it started, it seems like it's not getting any fuel. We pulled both fuel filters thinking I (silly girl) maybe got ahold of some bad fuel. Runs like crap! Is making a kinda clacking noise, if that is the word I'm looking for. My husband is at his wits end. Do you think maybe fuel pumps? We know there are 2. We also have a book, and my husband was once a diesel mechanic, but that was a while ago. Not getting any fuel is the key. He would just like some suggestions so we can trouble shoot. Black smoke when it dous start. We would appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks
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    homerun_consthomerun_const Member Posts: 1
    My 6.0 diesel keeps cutting out when you push on the gas pedal, not when you first push it but on the back end. It seems like it has lost some power and it doesn't want to shift. I have to let off of the gas to get it to shift. Sometimes if i give it a lot of gas it acts like it wants to die. I've had an injector go out on me before but i can't remember what it did. I have approx. 98,000 miles on it so i want to get it fixed soon. The injector went out around 47,000. Any ideas on what this could be would be greatly appreciated as i am not very mechanically inclined. Thanks
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    rodesignerrodesigner Member Posts: 20
    electrical plugs under the valve covers. Had problems withmy 2000 7.3 and they were checked, cleaned and reseated.
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    6lsmoker6lsmoker Member Posts: 2
    I have the same deal going with my 2006 F350. Since 5K mi the EGR has been an issue. Ford tried upgrading software and then replaced the intake manifold due to carbon build up. I have had it back to Ford several times for EGR issues. Now I can't pull a hill without load without blowing black smoke and the power drops off. I can push the gas to the floor and it won't kick down and maintains the same speed. Whan it does kick down the pressure on the turbo jumps and the smoke goes away.

    I will call the number you provided and log a complaint.

    Thanks for the info
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    6lsmoker6lsmoker Member Posts: 2
    I ahve issues with the 6.0 L and think FMC should recall the whole lot.
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    dellfamdellfam Member Posts: 6
    Around 45 - 55 I start feeling a "slippage or jerking" (not real bad) but u definately feel something going on. :confuse: MAP sensor was replaced recently.
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    tacopusher2tacopusher2 Member Posts: 3
    Is it Standard shift or Auto-matic? Or 4X4?
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    dellfamdellfam Member Posts: 6
    It is an automatic, not 4x4.
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    dellfamdellfam Member Posts: 6
    someone told me that my problem might be the GPS sensor.. Dont know if they know what they are talking about. what is a GPS sensor?
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    1cowensby1cowensby Member Posts: 1
    We have a 99 F350 and have a problem, while driving home from camping the truck got hot and the engine shut off. We had to let the truck sit for several hours before it would crank and run. However the problem has not been fixed. Has anyone else had this problem, If so how was the problem solved.
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    dellfamdellfam Member Posts: 6
    I had a mercury that did the same thing. Affter tons of part-replacement-mechanics and new filters, carb; etc. the problem was in the gas tank. THere was a sock on the gas line in the tank. It was collapsing then after a while it would straighten out and start right back up. I would start with the fuel tank and look for a "sock", "strainer" etc. Good luck.
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    jeaniet57jeaniet57 Member Posts: 2
    My husband has a 2005 F250 with a 6.0 and only 50000 miles on it. He's looking at about a $3000 repair job on it.
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    KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    That may be CPS - Crankshaft Position Sensor.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
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    tigrsoltigrsol Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem with 2000 F350 7.3L intermittently die on road and while sitting idling. I originally thought it was the CPS but have replaced it with the recall. Truck still acted up and replaced the CPS again with a new (improved) one. This worked for a while and the problem comes back. Replaced fuel filter, gets fuel pressure, battery voltage is fine, and alternator checks out fine. When attempting to restart after the truck dies the "Wait to start" comes on/off very fast at times, and the truck will not start. If I would let it sit for a couple of minutes it will start if the wait to start goes through its normal 5-10 second timeout. I always know when it will start by watching the "wait to start" and ensuring it stays lit for a proper amount of time. This requires cycling the key switch on/off a few times to get the proper sequence. The last time this happened I had to sit on the side of the road for 1 hour. I do have a Edge module piggy backed on the PCM. Anyone had the same situation and found the cause? This problem is driving me nutz!! Any help is appreciated.
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    jnkrichardsonjnkrichardson Member Posts: 1
    i got a 911 problem on my 05 - 6.0L - pwrstk. 1st radio died. next batt. dead after shutting off. then after a batt. jump- engine ran but ABS light appeared. Upon breaking- all electrical systems, i.e instrument cluster, A.C windows began shutting down - motor still ran. ...alternator out??? should of had a charge idiot light if the alt. was out? fuse or wiring problem? Thanks 4 any help!
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    autismpowerautismpower Member Posts: 5
    I had a very very similar problem, with my 2004 6.0 diesel

    the voltmeter said the alternator was charging , but I went to advance auto parts so they could put it on their analyser, they caught a bad diode in the alternator, I went to ford for an OEM and never saw the problem again
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    bassassassinbassassassin Member Posts: 7
    I had the same problem. It turned out to be my EGR valve was clogged also the seals int the turbo were worn. hope this helps
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    xelvis66xxelvis66x Member Posts: 77
    I hooked the scanner up and got a P0236 Turbo Boost Sensor A Circuit Performance. Does anyone know what this is, and if it's the reason it's running rough at an idle. When It's first started, sometimes it fires right up and others they spray ether and then it goes. But after it's running it's loud and rough, but if you touch the gas pedal a little bit it corrects itself?
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    huntet02huntet02 Member Posts: 7
    edited September 2010
    Hauling a horse 65miles driving in really high winds I hear this high-pitched whrring sound almost like a bad winddraft, we had really super high winds that day so I checked my windows, turned off the radio, turned off the AC, turned off the tow-haul and cruise but noise never stopped. I get to my destination unload horse visit for an hour and head home, while driving home with "empty" horse trailer, I hear this deep grinding noise like brakes dragging or catching underneath vehicle; I pull over and look checking the trailer, the truck all is fine so I drive some more. Noise stops if I let off gas, sounds like deep gears are pulling or grinding so I limp slowly to next town pull underneath lights and look everything over again, nothings leaking, oil fine, tranee fluid fine, nothing hot, I buy more Diesel and limp home going 50mph & below so the heavy grinding isn't to god awful. I get home turn it off and my husband started it right back up drove around coming back saying he had no power.
    -Checked the oil dipstick and its fine, not above where it should be so no diesel in crank case
    -Checked for reg gasoline none found
    -Husband took off fuel filter and its getting gas...
    This same noise I thought I heard when we first got truck and were pulling horses, its an undercarriage sound similar to driving a vehicle with the emergency break on; at that time we took to dealer and they had to replace "Turbo and EGR valve" which was all covered by warranty and its ran fine until now that was in April this year.
    Well we now have "0" warranty, $30K truck-loan, a truck that doesn't pull and now won't start. Engine tries like heck to crank over glow plug lit up and all but cannot start. This is weird considering I stopped 3 times on my way home turning it off to crawl underneath looking at things and it started up fine each time. We have limited warranty on the new "Turbo" Ford put on last April and have a list of things to try…but can anyone offer some guidance here? This is our first Diesel and "no I didn't put regular gas in it"
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    jhbutlerjhbutler Member Posts: 4
    i had the same rough idle problem. checked fuel filters, looked like someone had put something iun my fuel tank, dropped the fuel tank and found the coating was peeling off the inside of tank. took tank to radiator shop had cleaned replaced fuel filters and all fuel lines. problem solver fmc said it was not a defective part and i must have been using bio diesel. go figure..
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