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Ford F-Series Gasoline Engine Problems

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    roj42roj42 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 f250 and am having problems with the engine missing. I changed out the coil packs on the passenger side last year, but none on the driver side. it goes thru 1st and 2nd but when it hits 3rd and overdrive, it starts missing really bad.. anyone have any ideas????
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    emporer1998emporer1998 Member Posts: 3
    I have a year 2000 F250 super duty. When the MPH is above 35MPH there hesitation when hitting the gas and I get Vibration at a certain speed above 40mph. If I let the gas pedal go the Vibration goes away. When I hit the gas the RPM will go up and as the car gets up to speed the RPMs drop and vibration starts. If i just press the gas paddle a bit more it vibrates even more and RPM does not climb. If I hit the gas more then no Vibration and RPM goes up but when up to speed same issue. It drops and Vibration again. As I said it happens above 35-40MPH . I have noticed that If I take the overdrive off then the Vibration is not as bad on the highway.
    I have taken it to a mechanic and he told me my transmission is fine, joints are fine. He thinks its a motor problem. He does not know what it is because when he plugs the reader into the computer there are no misfires or issues reported.
    I had him change the Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Spark Plugs , Oil, add fuel injector cleaner . Still no luck. Someone please help.
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    emporer1998emporer1998 Member Posts: 3
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    ferets1ferets1 Member Posts: 3
    i have an 05 F-150 5.4 with the same issue and was wondering if you had found anything out, i had it in the shop and they could here it but could not figure out what and where it was coming from. mine usually starts the annoying whistle any wheres from 40-60 mph.
    any info would greatly be appreciated
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    moondogmoondog Member Posts: 3
    truck has 165000 miles the motor leaks oil and is a little gutless i was wondering if anyone knew if i could bore it out and maybe put a stroker kit on it
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    rbriggs500rbriggs500 Member Posts: 2
    I bought the same reader and have the same Diagnostic Monitor Test results on my 2001 Taurus. I also have a rough running engine with no OBD codes that has been driving me nuts.

    Did you find out what these test results mean? Please let me know.
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    bodyman3bodyman3 Member Posts: 2
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    bodyman3bodyman3 Member Posts: 2
    i changed my sparkplugs at 80k miles.2monthes later #5 coilpack went out,replaced with oem.2weeks later #6coilpack goes out,replaced all 8coilpacks with accel coilpacks.2months later #5 accel goes out.swaped #5coilpack and sparkplug with #7coilpack.rescanned #7misfire.i'm currently waiting on a replacement from accel.i know my truck has the redesigned heads.so i don't think its a sparkplug issue. has anyone else had this problem, i can't find any info on this. Could this be a computer problem. Something is either frying the #5 COILPACK or i got a faulty coilpack from accel. frustrated and confused, please help w/any info.
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    pgr351pgr351 Member Posts: 1
    Mechanic says computer shows no trouble codes. He cannot find anything wrong. Engine clatters under load. Worse at higher rpm's. I have bought gas at different places and it does not change.
    Anybody else had this problem??
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    moondogmoondog Member Posts: 3
    i had this problem on my 94 chevy 1500 4.3L it was a broken engine mount and the block would bounce off the frame making a chattering sound under a load usually at high rpm so check that out. it could be transmission mount also
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    semiklojsemikloj Member Posts: 1
    Replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, oxygen sensor, and PCV valve. Engine idles rough. Smokes black on both banks. Plugs were covered with black soot.
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    shrimpi331shrimpi331 Member Posts: 1
    dude just change out the cap and roter it will make it start just fine.
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    mike4578mike4578 Member Posts: 8
    my 91 f-150 has developed a miss. It only starts missing after it has been running a while(15 or 20min). It doesn't do it when the engine is cold or when the engine it a idle speed. It only misses when you press the gas.I have changed fuel filter, distributor cap, rotor, coil. The plugs and wires have about 4000 miles on them. It doesnt do it all the time. The truck went dead the other day and would not start up. I let it sit for 3 or 4 min and it fired right back up. I hope it isn't the fuel pump. Can anyone help me?
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    What engine do you have?
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    mike4578mike4578 Member Posts: 8
    5.0 , 302. Recently rebuilt about 4000 miles ago. The block sat for a while before i rebuilt it. The oil was really dirty when i changed it the first time after dropping the engine in.
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    Hi Mike,
    I had the same type of problem on my 4.9L. It kept quiting on me and missing. I found that it wasn't getting a good connection (electrical) at the tank. It kept burning the connector and pigtail. After burning a couple of pig tails, I finally put Kearney's on the connector posts. It stopped the problem at the tank but I also found that the wires going to the collision switch (driver side firewall under dash) were corroded, thus not sending adequate power to the pump. I renewed the connection and haven't had any problems since. (This problem haunted me for about a year). I suggest that you pick up a Haynes manual #36058 if you don't already have one. The fuel system is in Chapter 4. It has good trouble shooting and test procedures. Mike 9408
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    popswmpopswm Member Posts: 3
    1997 f-150, won't fire,throttle body,6cyl.,plenty of gas. was starting now not
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    Check your Fuel Pump Relay under the hood on drivers side finder. Another way is to have someone listen at the gas tank with the cap off while you turn the key to the on position. You should hear it run for just a couple of seconds then turn off. It will not come on again till you turn the engine over (safety feature). If no sound is heard, check the collision switch under the dash to the left of your left foot (up high), should have a red button on it. Push the red button then release to reset.
    Mike9408 :)
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    popswmpopswm Member Posts: 3
    FOUND THE PROBLEM---CLOGGED AIR FILTER,---------TOOK HOSE OF AT THROTTLE BODY, SPRAY SOME STARTING FLUID IN THE INTAKE, STARTED RIGHT UP. REPLACED HOSE WHILE RUNNING, ENGINE QUIT. TOOK HOSE OFF AGAIN, FIRED RIGHT UP. TOOK AIR FILTER OUT,CONNECTED HOSE BACK, KEPT ON RUNNING. REPLACED AIR FILTER WITH NEW ONE,STARTS AND RUNS FINE NOW. SENDING UNIT INLINE FOR AIR FILTER CUT THE SPARK OFF.
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    andy178andy178 Member Posts: 1
    My truck has sd on a couple of occasions while driving. No chugging or other signs of a problem. Just stalled. Both times at city speeds. It does seem like it,s been while slowing for a stop. I've heard that the Throttle Position Sensor or camshaft sensor could be the culprit. Anyone else dealt with this?
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    elkotravelerelkotraveler Member Posts: 1
    2005 F150 5.4L: 4 weeks ago I had 2 injectors fail at the same time in full open position. End result was bent rod/scored cylinder and failed catalytic converter. Per dealer, Ford knows about injector issues and has extended warranty to 100K on them. Ford is paying for the repairs without any argument. Issue now is lack of a new catalytic converter - apparently there are none available in the free world. Ford says their supplier will not have them until May 28th (if then) and dealer will not have it until 5 June (if then). Minimum 6 weeks without the truck waiting for converter. Anyone else have similar issues with Ford parts availability?
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    fng1fng1 Member Posts: 1
    My truck is hesitating or bogging down when I hit the gas, it feels like the motor wants to go but a lack of fuel or power won"t let it. It doesn't do it on the highway just in stop and go traffic and it doesn't matter if its hot or cold. I had to replace my temp gauge because it would go straight to hot when I started it up in the morning. I thought that was telling my pcm that my motor was hot but it still runs like crap. I have replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, one of my fuel pump's and checked the fuel pressure. I also had my battery go bad so I used my buddies battery to start it and want to take it out while it was running and it died after I took the neg or the positive cable off. So I had the alternator tested and they said it was good but I did put a new one and and it still died. If you have any idea's, theory's or suggestions I would appreciate it greatly. I am out of things to eliminate and I don't know what to do next. Thanks.
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    alsosaalsosa Member Posts: 1
    I am replacing the engine (4.2 6 cyl) in my 1997 F-150 with a 2006 4.2 6 cyl engine anyone has done this any problem to that you know to watch. Thanks for the help.
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    mike4578mike4578 Member Posts: 8
    Still having the same problem. The truck 91 f150 5.0 EFI will fire right up run good for 15 min or so and then it just quits. Have to let it sit about 20 min or so before it will start up. I replaced fuel pump and checked all connections. I pulled a spark plug and hooked it to the distributor and grounded it and it seems as there is no spark. Is there a sensor that is bad that is cutting the coil off? This is driving me crazy.
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    Mike, have you been able to pull the trouble codes from your computer? Your Chilton manual will tell you how to do this. If you don't have one I can maybe send the instructions to you. Otherwise I would check the coil (often when a bad coil heats up it will fail, then as it cools down it will work again for a short period of time. If the coil is Ok, maybe it is the control module in the distributer. Remove carefully and when replaced be sure to use dialectic grease as instructed. Check your connections to the MAF transmitter, check all connections. But the problem sounds to me like it is in the coil or Dist. control mod. Let me know. mj9408@sbcglobal.net. Mike9408
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    mike4578mike4578 Member Posts: 8
    I replaced the coil and the cap and rotor before I started looking at the fuel pump and connections. The distributor has good fire when it is running because i pulled the coil wire off and got a good jolt. The control module is mounted on the side of the distributor? I unplugged the MAP sensor while runnin and the truck idled crazy so i think that it is working. I dont think i have a MAF on my truck. If i do can u tell me where it is? Have not checked that yet. Thanks for all the info
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    couzracingcouzracing Member Posts: 3
    got an 88 f150 lariet. fuel goes past the filter with no problem. double tank. disconnected both filters. they r clean. pcv valve seems clogged. but dont think that is the only problem. what do you think could be going on? a line from the filter? the lines involved with the pcv??
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    couzracingcouzracing Member Posts: 3
    as far as i know, there is no MAF sensor on that truck. then again i could be wrong. but ive never seen one on that year and model
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    couzracingcouzracing Member Posts: 3
    what year is your F150? And do you know the code that came up? should start with P0 if it is 1996 or later
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    Would be good to know what is the problem FIRST, then go from there. You should always clean and repair all that you know to be wrong before anything else can be done. Check everything first, if you don't know what to check , please let us know what exactly, the problem is...maybe there is help. Mike9408
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    dejagerdejager Member Posts: 1
    I have a '94 f-150 with the 5.0L motor. My problem is not a consistant one, but is becoming more so. The usual series of events while driving is: my check engine light will come on, the motor will bog down, somtimes missing, I can usually get it to run right by hitting the throttle wide open. It will work fine for a bit then go right back. Check engine light does not stay on all the time. Also sometimes the truck will barely idle at a stoplight, and at the next it's fine. New(er) plugs, wires, rotor, cap, O2 sensor, PCV valve. Does not happen at the same air temperature, engine temp, load, speed. No clue what's up, but it seems like a sensor of some kind to me.

    Thanks for any help.
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    diehardforddiehardford Member Posts: 50
    Mike , replace that module on the side of distributor. I have owned a lot of fords and every one has done what yours is doing and that module was the problem every time. That is your secondary ignition module and you will need a special tool to replace it sold at every car parts store for around 5 to ten dollars. The last module I bought was around 40 dollars.
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    timbertimtimbertim Member Posts: 9
    I have replaced the filter in frame, took the fuel line off at the fuel pressure modlule on the rail, gas pumps up to there, checked the pressure in the rail, 40#s, replaced the module on distribitor, and still won't run. BUT if I sqirt gas into the air inlet it will run as long as I keep squirting the gas, stop and it dies.
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    notlobnotlob Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2004 F150 with the 5.4 3 valve engine. Engine stalls at idle or when making short burst of RPM's. I am getting a code read-out of P0506 ( IDLE CONTROL SYSTEM RPM LOW) I think it may be a vacuum line off or leaking, but I can not find the source. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks Notlob
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    What engine do you have???What control system do you have???Please check your air filter and any electronic device you might have between the air filter and the throttle body. Make sure air filter is in good condition and the wiring to all devices are connected properly. Mike9408
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    mike9408mike9408 Member Posts: 74
    Check your throttle position indicator wiring connector, make sure it is in good condition and that the connection is good. Mike9408
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    notlobnotlob Member Posts: 10
    My understanding of this problem is the spark plug (steel) seize up pretty tight in the aluminum heads by 100K. Dealership broke off five plugs on my 5.4 last week. They had told me to bring the truck in the day before so they could spray some solvent in the plug cavity and let it set overnight and remove the plugs the next day. They did not wait over night and removed the plugs after the engine had cooled, breaking 5 in the process. they do had a way of removing the busted plug , but have to be very careful about dropping debris into the cyl. Removing the heads is very $$. You need to know what they plan to do, so you don't have a big surprise.
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    carguyrykercarguyryker Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    We have a 2000 Ford F250 crew cab, short box. It has the 6.8 liter V10, and man does this thing have power. Low end torque is through the roof for a 3/4 ton truck, especially for a gas engine. And it tows like no other. We once pulled a stuck 32 foot motorhome, with a 22 foot Malibu wakeboarding boat ataached off of a gravel boat launch. The truck crawled right out of it.
    The gas mileage is about 10-12, but if you want a gas truck that can tow this is it. It pulls our 3500 pound boat around like its not even there.
    The four door crew cab is great. 3 people in my family are over 6 feet tall, and we can all ride comfortably on long trips together.
    The truck now has 86,000 miles on it, and we have never experienced a problem, but as said before, it is maintained very well. Overall i would highly reccomend this truck.
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    amborideramborider Member Posts: 1
    Howdy-

    Newby here who just bought a 2006 F-150 Supercrew with 5.4 Triton motor about six months ago. It's got around 50K miles on it now. AFTER I bought it, there appeared several signs in the service dept claiming that "owners of 5.4 Triton motors between 2004 and 2006 should speak with service manager".

    The service manager told me that they were aware that if you wait until 100K (the normal service interval for a plug change) that the plugs could seize or break in the heads, causing VERY expensive procedures to be done. He offered to change my plugs for $170.00

    His recommendation was to replace them before 60K, thus preventing the problem. I have looked around the web and seen multiple horror stories of people with this motor having plugs blow out of the heads, break, etc. and now am paranoid about the whole situation.

    My wife wants to go visit family in Maine from here in Texas in the truck this summer.

    My question is this.......should I go ahead and have the plugs changed NOW and hope they follow correct procedures from TSB 08-7-6 which clearly shows how to remove the plugs without breakage, and hope that they can do this without screwing up and ending up charging me for plug inserts, or at worse, new heads? Or should I just keep trucking, and hope the spark plugs don't pop out on this long trip?

    Any and all advice appreciated.

    Mike Selvey
    Nacogdoches, TX
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    tnt102704tnt102704 Member Posts: 2
    Mike, I recently had the plugs changed in my 2004, 5.4, at 65,000 miles, based on the some of the same stories you mention.
    I suggest you start using Lucas Fuel treatment with each fill up. This will burn off most of the carbon build up on the stems of the spark plugs. My service manager advised that the carbon build up is the source of the breaking/stripped plug problem. I bought the truck with 60k on it and had been using the Lucas to boost fuel mileage. When they changed my plugs (the $170 is just the labor, the plugs are another $80) only one broke off. In discussing this with the service manager, after the fact, he stated that the Lucas is probably why they only had a problem with one plug. I would suggest you take your trip, using the Lucas, and have the plugs changed when you get back.
    Beware, they also "sold" me on a fuel filter and injector cleaning, bumping my tab over $600, but on the trip to Daytona from W. Ky., right after the plugs and "cleaning" I got 21 mpg, loaded with 4 passengers and the bed filled to the brim, with my wife and her bff doing the driving. Both of them were hammer down all the way down and back. Good luck.
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    notlobnotlob Member Posts: 10
    I just talked with my service tech today at my dealership. Took my 04 150 5.4 3v in for a throttle valve problem. He had changed out my plugs last week and five of them were busted durning removal. he showed me the plugs (new) and now I can understand how they could be broken after they have been in the engine for some time. Plugs are normally good for 100k. , but the carbon build up would be very heavy long before 100k. Using Lucus Fuel treatment would help burn off the carbon build-up. Unscrewing the plug is not the problem, it's the extended tip of the plug that freezes in the alum head. A tech that's knows his trade can remove the extended tip without damage to the head. Take your trip, I have driven my F150 up to Wisc. many times about 2000k round trip and up to Ny a couple of times. I enjoy the trip in the truck over a car anytime. Notlob
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    mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    This is true about the Ford V8's and the spark plugs. The problem is not that the origial plugs blow out, it is when they are taken out the first time the carbon on the plug thread damages the spark plug thread. For what ever it is worth, when taking the plugs out, loosen 1/4 turn then retighten to break off the carbon from the old plug. Increase the amount of the turn each time by a 1/4 turn until you have made one complete turn, then remove. Napa sells a replacement spark plug that has a longer thread on it and goes deeper into the head. By doing this I havent had any of the new spark plugs pop out of any of the V8's I have done.
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    mad17mad17 Member Posts: 1
    Have been waiting for a Catalytic Converter for our 2005 F-150 truck since Feb. 24th ,2009. Took it to the dealer (under warranty). Have called Ford to complain. Started in March/It is now the end of June. Keep telling me next month/no they say July 22nd. Meantime my fail safe mode has come on. This is the only vehicle i have. Summertime/we camp alot. Can't do anything til i get this fixed.
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    mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    If it is that big of a deal getting a CAT. Just remove it and put an extension tube in there in its place until the part comes in. The down stream O2 sensor will set a code of poor CAT efficiency, but who cares! Your truck will still run.
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    mfeldermfelder Member Posts: 2
    93 f150 with 5.0 it is hard starting but idles good if i baby it it will go down the road but if i acclerate normal it acts like it out of fuel if i stay on the acclerator itll stall if i back off of it alittle it regains power .ive replaced fuel filter ,o2 sen.,fuel regulator ,air filter ,roter, dis.cap, and cheched other sensors by unpluging and looking at the check engine light and they all came on when unpluged and went off plug in. it has dual tanks and runs the same on both. help!!!!!!!!!!
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    mfeldermfelder Member Posts: 2
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    lewscrewlewscrew Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 F350 V10. I recieved the EGR system fault code. I replaced the EGR Valve and sensor and I still receive the code even after resetting the check engine light. Does anyone know what outhere things would cause this code?
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    notlobnotlob Member Posts: 10
    I would check the vacuum line to the EGR to make sure there is no problem with it. Pop
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    mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    If your trouble code is "EGR malfuction" Here are the possible causes: Electrical, EGR, EVR or DPFE, disconected hose or clogged or broken DPFE tube.

    You already replaced the EGR so that wasn't it. If it is an electrical problem, ouch very hard to diagnose.

    Other causes and most common are DPFE (Differential Presure Fedback EGR sensor) or EVR (Electronic vaccum Regulator to EGR) I know a real mouth full.

    1st: If you are not experiencing weird idle changes along with this trouble code, it is unlikely that the EVR is malfuctioning. It could be not working at all and not opening the EGR with vaccum. This is the cheaper sensor too. About $35

    2nd: On your exhuast manifold are 2 tubes one bigger than the other leading up to the DPFE. This sensor reads back pressure changes in the exhuast when the EGR is told to open. If the signal is not correct, bingo....t-code. Check to see if the tubes are clogged up or if one of the hoses came off the DPFE sensor. This sensor isnt cheap! If you have an exhuast leak, fix it. Insufficient back pressure in the exhuast can throw this sensor off also.

    You seem like a smart guy. After each test repair reset PCM and test drive. Keep track of what you have eliminated as the cause such as the EGR. This may take some time to figure out. I do this for a living and this t-code can be a [non-permissible content removed] sometimes. One way of testing the EVR is to temporarely install a vaccum guage inline with a vaccum tee to your EGR and put the guage so you can see it. Drive and look for vaccum being applied and changing by the system while your driving around..

    Get back to me if you want me detail how to test the DPFE. I have the right equipment, but it can be tested other ways, its just hard that way. Good luck.
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    t129t129 Member Posts: 1
    A few days ago my engine light came on and the engine started missing. Today the engine started missing worse and the light started flashing. After I stopped the engine and restarted it the light was off and it didnt miss anymore. Any ideas what's going on?
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