Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
first 1/2hr. or hr. of the day, then it starts running really rough in the low RPM's.
I have to about floor it to take off in 1st gear when I used to take off in 2nd gear.
The RPM's also fluctuate when idilng and sometimes it will just die driving down
the road at which this point I switch to the other tank and that keeps me going
but still runs the same. Checked the timing the plugs, and looked for any bad
vaccuum lines but can't seem to make things any better. Would appreciate any
advice from anyone. Thanks.
air filter and its fine. And according to my Haynes manual, F250's w/EFI have non-
servicable or replacable fuel filters. Thats what I was thinking the problem could be
because I do run both my tanks down to fumes quite often.
below zero), and when I pulled the gauge out of the radiator neck, it had yellowish
oil-like residue all over it. I know when you blow a head gasket, the oil on the dip-
stick might have H2o/antifreeze on it. Is this possibly the same problem? Any
help is greatly appreciated.Thanks.
have replaced the coil, ignition module, plugs, fuel filter, computer and distributor. It is getting spark, and gas. (Clynder 3 & 4 were very wet. others appeared normal) Plug wires are have less than 5,000 miles on them.
Fuel pressure is 40 psi + or -.
Adding starter fluid does not help. it doesn't hit a lick.
I have noticed that it attemps to start when first trying to start after sitting for awhile..
Again, gas is good, spark is good. Any help in this m atter would be greatly appreciated.
ernie
Normally, it will try to hit after sitting for awhile but this morning, it didn't even try to hit this morning.
1986 efi Ford F-150 with about 140K miles.
Help Please,
ernie in Virginia Beach
thanks
ernie
The Crankshaft position sensor is located on the vibration damper. Could be just a wire has fallen off of it or a crack or short in the wire. Look for the wires running down the block to the vibration damper. Ernie, do you have or know someone who has a "Code Reader"? This could narrow down the search. Also, purchase a Chilton repair manual, available at most parts stores. And Read, Read, Read...
Thanks ernie
Mike
Mike
Also, it has 103,000 miles and we keep up on the maintance. This is the first trouble we have had. This truck is usually sitting and used for hauling, and some trips etc.
(1)Moisture like the oil changers said. Ford trucks do this a lot.
(2)Blown head gasket or micro crack in cylinder head or block.
(3)PCV valve faulty
If some moisture just got caught up and mixed with the oil over time, your Ford does have a reputation for this. Buy a bottle of liquid not spray Berrymans B12 carb cleaner (pint) and poor into where the oil goes. Drive arround for at least 40-50 miles and then change your oil. Wipe the excess creamy stuff of your cap.
If it is a blown head gasket there is a product called Blue Devil Block Sealant availible at NAPA. The thermostat has to be removed and you have to follow the instructions on the bottle, but it works real well in sealing blown head gaskets and cracks. Pay a mechanic that has done this before. I have a 98% sucess rate with this product on vehicle that will run for at least an hour even though they have a blown head gasket. On vehicles that have a blown head gasket but do not over heat, it has worked every single time, 100%. Good luck!
When you checked the oil was the level above full, and were you low on anti-freeze? That will tell you if the headgasket blew. That happened to my brothers jeep, he replaced the gasket and his levels are good and the yellow is gone in the valvecover.
I hope this will help?
Also did you do a test on the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) that can make it run bad. I unplugged the one in my jeep while searching for problems and it started to run rough and barly run?
At 110,000 miles the intake manifold gasket leaked on top of #4 cyl bending the rod and busting the piston.
I was told that 1997 and 1998 where bad about doing this.
Now i have fond a 4.2 V6 out of a 2003 F-150 and a 5 speed std for $250.00.
Will this fit in my 1997?
If so what will i have to do to make it work?
I have had a lot of Yes and No's.
But if no way not its the same motor?
please help me out if you can.
Thanks.
hubbamc
Good luck!
John
computer had 2 faults egr & fuel relay. switched relay with horn relay cleared computer ran great for 2 day and problem back. unpluged egr and installed kill switch in place of relay lasted few hours and problem back what direction to go next
did tune up except fuel filter already
Please try to include the engine type and use complete descriptive sentences. Let me know what you find but it does sound like the fuel pump.
Mike
this is a 5.8liter fuel inject 4speed stick. for a 95 it all looks org underneath the vech
am i looking for hoses or wires or both for this connection problem?