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Comments
See posts # 510 and 551.
When I shift my truck to drive and the vehicle starts moving forward (in gear) The pedal partialy responds and then when line pressures are satified the computer will reference pedal postion no matter where it is. and apply engine response thus leading to an unitended and undesired accelaration to anyone that it not aware of the problem. That (my opinion) is dangerous. I nearly drove up the backside of a car the first week I had the truck. What puzzles me is the 09 08, 07 do not exhibit this "characteristic". This could be easily overcome by anticipating transmission function by ways of the brake pedal.
I also came across a thread about undersized torque converters for thes trucks??? any thoughts.
Thanks
The reason I'm here and asking, is that I've taken it to three different mechanics with 3 different answers...see below.
I was told I have 1) bad motor mounts
2) I needed a 4WD service... even though it's a 2WD?
3) that my fluids may be low, which I checked, all are within range
Has any one else had this issue or suggestions?
Easy to inadvertently "arm".
The way I read it if you press slightly harder on the brake pedal AFTER coming to a full stop the Hill-Assist is armed. Arming the Hill Assist results in all four brakes being lightly applied in order to prevent the vehicle from rolling on an incline. Once you subsequently apply, re-apply, pressure to the gas pedal the brakes are released and shortly thereafter the engine will respond to the gas pedal.
Transmission is very hard to shift. 1st gear can only be engaged if truck comes to complete stop. It takes a lot of pressure to get it into first, it almost feels like breaking a chicken bone. I do press clutch all the way in and had driven many cars with manual trannys with no issues. It's hard to drive this truck in a stop and go trafic where the speeds are too slow to engage the 2nd gear and the 1st gear can not be engaged. I have to shift into second and burn the clutch to accelerate the truck to above 15 MPH.
Shift pattern from first to second is very notchy, sometimes with a loud clunk. 2nd to 3rd is better but sometime I hear a clunk too.
Reverse is another problem. Shifting into reverse is very hard. One morning I could not get it into reverse at all. I had to move the truck forward slightly and then use a lot of force to shift into reverse. I wonder if braking the shift lever is covered under Toyota warranty?
Does anyone have similar problems? The dealer said everything is normal (like everything else with Toyota vehicles warranty claims. It sure seems like it).
I'm very dissappointed with the quality. Especially with the fact that rear differential had hardly any oil in it since new. I described this problem in a defferent post under the OIL thread.
They kept the gas pedal thing under wraps till a family died .Kept saying its the floor mats. Toyota needs to get it together . I would buy a frontier or titan if I could do it again.
Make sure the brake pedal is not engaged at all. Pull up on it with your foot will driving and see if the tranny does anything.
It does not shift into drive (3rd) on its own except when going up hill. I just don't understand why it won't go back into OD after I crest the hill on to a flat surface or going down hill.
I will try the brake pedal tomorrow when I am on the road. Thanks!
Thanks
Thank You!
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Reading through the posts, it doesn't sound like there is a solution. However, I have discovered that if I drop the gearshift lever into neutral as I approach a stop, it doesn't do the 'clunk and jerk.' I usually shift back into drive after I've been sitting still for a few seconds.
My first 4 cars were Toyotas: '74 Corolla, '85 Celica coupe, '79 Supra, and '85 Celica GT-S. Those were some sweet rides - the body went bad before the drivetrain wore out. I spent the next 18 years with Ford products - not a lemon in the bunch.
This is my first experience with the new Toyota, and I'm greatly disappointed. I can't believe Toyota would design an automatic transmission that has to be shifted manually to maintain a smooth ride.
For an extra $400 I could have gotten a brand new Ford Ranger loaded. I opted for the Tacoma with 44,000 miles. Wish I'd bought the Ranger.
Most manufacturers have now adopted the new coastdown fuel cut technique, the "abolition" of the ATF line pressure accumulator, and the "dithering", continuous up/down shifting, to use the most optimal gear ratio for conditions, all to conserve fuel.
Our only "escape" is the stick shift.
Since the torque converters are not so robust as yesteryear the vehicle will often creep on an incline. To prevent this many manufacturers are including the hill-start feature, automaticlaly apply the brakes until pressure is applied to the gas pedal. In the meantime DBW is used to delay the onset of engine rising RPM until the brakes are released fully.
Let me know if anyone figures out whats wrong and how to fix it!
The engine/transmission ECU control firmware is designed to not allow top gear, OD, use until the transmission fluid and the catalyst have had time to heat up to operational temperature.
If your truck was run in 4WD on a non-slippery roadbed for as little as 30 miles, inadvertently or not, many of the driveline components, transfer case and transmission, gears, gearing would have been subject to an extraordinary level of overheating.
As for competitors - there aren't any. Frontier is closest, but costs more and not as well equipped and generally lower rated.
Have a '97 Ranger and after 50,000 miles, it's been one $300-500 problem after another and three tows to the garage. In fact for last 5 years, we haven't driven it more than 1,000 per mile due to fear it would break down.
Were I the dealer I would begin to question your proper use of the clutch...
Are you sure you know when to NOT have the front drive engaged...?
Sorry if this is too "in your face" but the useful lifetime of stick shift transmissions is very much the result of driver use...or abuse...
Plus your post jumps out at me as being ONE of ONE.
Under the Tacoma it's easy to get the oil and transmission fluid pans confused.
This would explain the whining noises and the funky shifting.