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Chrysler Town & Country: 2004 and Earlier
I am trying to deceide if I want to spend the money for a new Town and Country or keep mine awhile longer.
Can anyone with miles tell me what to expect. I have the 3.8 LXI and have maintained it as required by the maint. book. I have also used synthetic oil and changed it and the filter every 6000 miles.
What problems can I expect to see in the next 40 to 50,000 miles and what are the costs.
Can anyone with miles tell me what to expect. I have the 3.8 LXI and have maintained it as required by the maint. book. I have also used synthetic oil and changed it and the filter every 6000 miles.
What problems can I expect to see in the next 40 to 50,000 miles and what are the costs.
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Comments
The only reason why I can justify buying a new T&C, is if your current vechicle is not meeting all of your family needs and hasn't been very reliable.
We have an 01 DCG EX with the same 3.8L engine and trans. with over 78K that we bought used in Sep. 03 with only 37K at that time. Our van has been very reliable with only a few small non maintence issues that were covered under warrenty. I believe your van can easily make it to over 200K if properly maintained. Cars are built a whole lot better today, then in the past, and should very easily make it over 200K. Of course with replacement of worn parts over time and use. :shades:
So I am interested in any and all problems that have occured in vehicles with mileage greater than mine.
150 k would be okay with me. What do you base your 200k figure on?
Since we are talking about the 3.8L engine and trans., which by the way are the same, in both the 01 DGC and your 03 T&C. The only differences between your T&C and our DGC is the year, which ours is the first year makeover since 1996 I believe, and T&C has more luxery styling. The mechanics in both are the same as well as parts.
So I am interested in any and all problems that have occurred in vehicles with mileage greater than mine.
Even though we don't own a 03 T&C, I will tell you what problems we have had as well as regular wear and tear. (Remember that ours is a first year makeover. So some problems will happen and should be expected on all first year models).
1) Both front driver and passenger power window motors and regulators needed to be replaced. (Warranty)
2) Replaced gas cap. Seal went bad and made check engine light come on. (Warranty)
3) Replaced battery after about 4 yrs old. (Non-warranty)
4) Front suspension work on sway bar links, etc. (Warranty)
5) Replaced both outer tire rods (Warranty)
6) Replaced one power steering hose. TCB (No charge)
7) Replaced clamps on power steering cooler. Was leaking. (No charge)
8) Trans. has been flushed once. It's had a filter and fluid change too.
9) Regular oil changes.
10) Every year replace all wipers, cabin and air filter.
11) Replaced rear lift gate latch and had computer software updated. TCB according to receipt. (Warrenty).
12) Had both front and back rotors turned and brake pads replaced.
13) Have replaced one tire after blow out. Soon to replace two other tires that have over 78K on them.
*Most of these repairs were done during routine maintence visits.
150 k would be okay with me. What do you base your 200k figure on?
I have heard people going well over 150K on the original trans. and motor from earlier makes. Right now, we have the most reliable engine and trans. that Daimlerchrysler makes. Since they redesigned under the hood to allow for more space around the engine and trans., this allows the heat to escape which was one of the problems in premature trans. failure on the earlier model vans. Also, a lot of people were putting in the wrong trans. fluid which resulted in premature trans. failure. Only Daimlerchrysler dealers have the correct fluid for your trans. :shades:
Does anyone have a Chrysler manual - I torqued the bolts to 32 but would like to know what the manual calls for.
Tnanks for any assistance
Frank
It seems a low value to me(!?)Do it common sense:
Don't overtighten those things, but don't leave them to loose either!!!
Willem
Frank
m
Just recently, the check engine light came on again. I did a trick to do the diagnostic check myself. turning the key on and off a few times will show you the codes on the odometer. When I did this, the following codes displayed: "P1684 and P0135". Does anyone know these codes and how to fix?
more stress to our trip. Has anybody got any suggestions on how to fix this without going to the dealer?
97xpresso, "Chrysler Town and Country EX/LX/LXi/Limited" #1919, 3 Aug 2005 4:27 pm
This was the only non-maintenance issue we have had.
However, each was purchased NEW by a private party and were never fleet or rental units.
4th generation Caravans are very heavy vehicles, and tend to roll forever when you ease off the gas pedal (unless climbing a grade) I purchased my Caravan with 24,000 miles, and had to replace the front pads immediately, because they were worn to the metal. I now have close to 50,000 miles, and the replacement pads look almost the same as the day I installed them. I read many posts about early brake wear in Caravans, and I am willing to bet driving habits have a lot to do with it. I have seen many people who either have their foot on the gas or on the brake, not anticipating stops, and never rolling to a braked stop, but like I said from the gas pedal right to the brake pedal. With the weight and inertia of these vans, the brakes will not last if driven this way
Repairs:
AC condenser(the thing under the dash,maybe its the wrong term)
Serpentine belt
tie rods
brake shoes
Brake fluid lines
Battery x 2
car horn
water pump(mechanic suggestion)
Most of the repairs I considered pretty routine.
Thanks
Brian
No, I'm not losing any fluid. It seems that it may be something internal in the master cylander. I just went out and the brakes seem to be pumping up better.
It's wierd cause I just got done changing brakes on a 1998 caravan and they are working great. this town and country is giving me fits.
1. When we turn on the vehicle the radio, wiper, power windows, and ac/heater do not turn on, but the van runs normal otherwise. Then if we turn it off and back on right away they work.
2. Sometime (more often then not lately) when all the above things are working while driving the radio (radio, CD, tape) will suddenly go to a buzzing noise and will not work again until the van has been off for a least an hour.
3. NOW- tonight my husband saw flashing lights outside our window. When he went out to check it out our light were flashing quickly on our radio was turning on and off. The fuse box was also ticking. The vehicle had been turned off for over an hour and there were not keys in it. We unplugged the battery for now.
HELP!!!
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Bill :mad: :confuse:
I found the answer to this somewhere on this forum.
All you have to do is disconnect the Negative battery cable for about 5-10 minutes and the Body Control Module Will reboot turning all the correct lights on and it may even correct some transmission shifting problems especially after a rebuild or replace of the tranny.
Bill
We just purchased a 2004 T-C. We are quite pleased with the way it runs and drives. We did have one issue this evening however.
When we open the driver's door the Key-in-ignition reminder sounds, even though the key is not in the ignition (and lights are off and the ignition is in the "lock" position.)
Suggestions?
Thanks,
CF