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Comments
http://www.mitsucars.com/MMNA/jsp/outlander/08/trims.do?loc=en-us#trimsTab
utlander XLS V6
Driving on asphalt in the Outlander XLS may be optional, but exclusive extras come standard. Under-floor stowable compact third-row seating. Steering-wheel-mounted paddle shifters. 18-inch aluminum alloy wheels. FAST Key (Free-Hand Advanced Security Transmitter) passive keyless entry system. Automatic climate control. Bluetooth® hands-free phone interface with voice recognition. The list goes on and on.
ENGINE: 3.0-liter, 220-horsepower*, MIVEC V6 engine with 204 lb-ft of torque
TRANSMISSION: 2WD or 4WD; six-speed Sportronic® transmission with steering wheel-mounted paddle shifters
INTERIOR: Air conditioning, power windows, locks and mirrors, power glass sunroof, FAST (Freehand Advanced Security Transmitter) key, multi-information dot-matrix display, 60/40 split-fold/tumble/recline adjuster back seats, cruise control, nine cup holders, sport fabric seats with leather bolsters, high-contrast meters, 115V power outlet and 13 storage compartments
EXTERIOR: silver roof rails and door handles, aluminum roof panel, 18-inch alloy wheels, flap-fold tailgate, combination LED tail lamps, color-keyed mirrors, rear privacy glass, V6 badge, dual exhaust finisher, fog lights and daytime running lights
SAFETY: active stability control (ASC), four-wheel disc anti-lock brakes with Electronic Brakeforce Distribution (EBD) and an advanced dual-stage front SRS airbag† safety system with roll sensing side-curtain airbags†
*In California and other low-emissions states, the PZEV engine has 213 horsepower.
†Airbags are part of a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS). To decrease the risk of injury from a deploying airbag, always wear your seatbelt, sit upright in the middle of the seat and do not lean against the door. Always place children 12 and under in the rear seat and use appropriate child restraints. Never place a rear-facing infant restraint in the front seat. See your Owner's Manual and instructions provided with your child restraint for additional information
If you choose the Luxury Package you get Xenon HID headlights and the fog lights are replaced with low wattage DRL lights.
Seems simple enough to me.
Mitsubishi should equip the Qutlander with mud flaps as part of the design to prevent the sandblasting. Virtually every small SUV on the road has flared fenders, and maybe half have front mud flaps. Whether their rear fender flares would get blasted without the flaps is not certain. What is certain is that the half without flaps don't exhibit the same problem as the Outlander.
And, to answer your question, yes it is worth it if I dissuade even one potential buyer until Mitsubishi corrects the problem. Unfortunately, they've demonstrated no concern thus far. We need to maintain our resolve, and hit them in the wallet in the mean time. Don't visit the thread if it offends you. ;-)
Yes Mitsubishi should equip OUTLANDER with long mud flaps or side plastic panels at the bottom of the doors, like many other manufactures did. Something should be done for those areas. For now, you can just add those extra long flaps, and solve your problem. As far as flying stones from the car in front of you, how is that a Mitsubishi fault? If you think so, then go on your little war if you wish.
hopefully as time goes by we can get cheaper accessories outside the dealerships...
In the last five months I've driven the same roads that I drove for nine years in my Nissan. When I traded the Nissan it had one chip on each front fender.
In order to try and establish a baseline standard, albeit simplistic, I cited the example of friends in our ski club whose cars average 5 years and 60K plus, and have 2 to 3 chips compared to my 25. They drive the same roads that I do (literally, but they've driven them 10 times longer). By the time I have 60K on my Outlander, I'll be lucky to have any paint left.
I understand how some either simply cannot understand the underlying implication, or how some simply do not want to understand. Whichever boat you are in is no problem with me.
I know... perhaps the real problem is that every other manufacturer puts too much workmanship into the finish on their cars. That's just not fair to Mitsubishi!
I guess common sense one. I drove my Outlander for the last nine months, and I don't have any chips on front fenders, or roof, or hood, or front doors, or bumpers. Nil. I drove it behind salt trucks, dump trucks, landscaping trucks, delivery trucks. Nothing. On dusty roads, on wet roads, on back roads. Null. I went skiing, hauling, speeding and cruising. Nada. What worse, I'm not the only one. Can you imagine that out there, there may be more owners, with more miles, and still without any damage? Some owners experienced chips and damage at the bottom of the rear doors, and that is what we are discussing here for months now. Seams that high ground clearance, flared fenders and lack of body cladding or long mud flaps, combined with sandy or gavel roads can cause some troubles. I still can't see how other areas affected on your vehicle can be related.
Discussion Title Last Post Total New
Toyota Prius Paint Quality? 6/7/08 16 16
Honda Odyssey Paint Issues 6/5/08 41 41
Suzuki Forenza Troubles 6/3/08 82 79
Toyota Corolla Paint Problems 6/3/08 2 2
Mitsubishi Lancer 2008 Paint Chips 6/3/08 33 13
Pontiac G6 paint problem 6/2/08 2 2
Acura TL Paint and Exterior Care 6/2/08 81 78
Dodge Dakota Paint issues 5/29/08 4 4
2008 Lexus ES 350 Paint Problems 5/28/08 1 1
2008 RAV4 Bad Paint 5/27/08 1 1
Spectra Paint Quality? 5/26/08 51 50
Mazda Protege Rust Problems 5/25/08 2 2
Ford Escape Paint 5/12/08 5 4
Mazda CX-9 Paint and Body Work Questions 5/9/08 13 12
Paint Chips Again 07 Outlander 5/6/08 17 17
Xterra paint for front and back plastic 4/29/08 1 1
Chrysler 300M Care and Maintenance 4/28/08 86 82
2008 Impreza Exterior Paint Problems 4/18/08
Chevrolet Cobalt General Care & Maintenance 4/10/08 121 112
Ford Expedition Rust and Paint Issues 4/8/08 32 32
07 Denali paint chipping 4/7/08 16 11
Santa FE paint job 2007+ 3/11/08 18 17
Nissan Versa Paint and Exterior Issues 2/18/08 4 4
Chevrolet Impala Paint Problems 2/6/08 137 131
Hyundai Elantra Exterior Issues 1/12/08 15 15
Honda Accord Quality Control Issues 12/12/07 3546 3422
Honda Fit Exterior & Paint Questions 10/31/07 43 43
Paint dots on windshield & lights - why??? 7/30/07 5 5
cheap paint jobs 9/29/04 18 18
Paint Problem - long post 8/25/03 14 14
Read this before purchasing an Acura 3.2 CL 3/26/02 71 65
WHITE PAINT PROBLEM 7/21/03 8 8
2003 Tacoma Paint Chips 5/22/03 14 13
Paint Chipping is it the new softer paint or specific makes/models? 7/23/02 18 18
Maxima PAINT quality problems 11/5/01 3 3
Paint Colors: Which are easiest to match for repair of chips? 10/17/01 23 22
GrandPrix paint peeling 9/4/01 2 2
Dodge Paint peeling problem 7/14/01 5 5
1996 buick rivera paint problem on hood. 2/21/01 3 3
1996 Dodge Ram 1500 Paint Defects 7/28/00 2 2
U.S. Paint problems 10/9/98 43 43
After a few miles in the highway in a brand new 2008 Outlander XLS V6 (with the Navigation System) the control cluster flagged the ‘tire’ icon and a text: ‘SERVICE REQUIRED’. Since then this light and text is permanently on. The dealer asked me to take the car back to scan and check the TPMS sensors of the vehicle. However, it appears that the MMCS has a menu to reset/set the TPMS and this can be done at home without taking the car to the dealership. Is this the right action to take?
Does anyone have any experience about this problem and has managed to solve it at home just by operating the MMCS menu?
I would like to make some comments about the state of the underbody of the car. Without going into details I will say that there were symptoms of rust/corrosion in the area where the wheel attaches to the rotor. This confirms the comments of a member that said that he found it extremely difficult to take the wheel off of his Outlander after one-year. Equally it is very easy to cross-thread the wheel nuts giving the false appearance that the nuts are threading easily. Take extra care when you rotate your tires.
There are visible symptoms of corrosion in the muffle holders and suspension arm edges. I haven’t seen this symptom of rust in a vehicle 3-week old ever. I have a Lexus SC300 and a Hyundai Tucson and you see these rust/corrosion symptoms after 1-year perhaps.
What was the manufacture date of your vehicle?. It may be brand new to you, but could have sat on a lot in another part of the country for a bit. (dealers swap cars around, especially when the buyer is looking for something in particular that does not seem to be available locally). There is also the phenomenon know as "rail rust" when cars are transported on trains.
I love the SE trim level. The Fast Key is cool. The 115V power outlet is new for me. Didn't have that in the '05. We'll see if I ever use it. The sun & sound is nice. The satellite radio is keeping the wife busy
One thing I noticed is that it doesn't seem to accelerate from a stop as fast as my '05 did. Do I just need to "break in" the '08? Maybe I should've gotten the 6 cylinder??? It drives nice overall. Played with the paddle shifters, but will probably leave it in full automatic all of the time. Feels pretty smooth and quiet, but they've fixed a lot of potholes around here already.
I think the look of the '08 is much better than the '05. It feels bigger. Maybe 'cause I jacked the driver's seat all the way up.
Haven't spent to much time in it yet, but that's my thoughts so far.
The end finishing is not as a professional job but it will do the job.
$50 bucks seems a reasonable price - I was planning to go to a detailing shop and have the film custom-made.
I'm asking all these questions because the other day I was checking out some 08 models in the dealer lot and it seems like they come with some extra film (going higher around the wheel well arch) on the rear door frame, but not on the door itself. However, the piece on the door it's the same size as on earlier models. I find this setup odd as it does not address the main issue - the major damage is on the door itself. I hope what you got covers the bulge on the rear door, up to about the height of the rear wheel.
You can see it here, I think this may be the supplier dealers would use.
2007 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER: Splash Kit
Part Number: MIT00207S
Our Price: $53.36
I had a body shop look at the damage on my Outlander, and their recommendation was to augment the existing film. They too were concerned that the paint would come with it if the film were to be removed.
I had a body shop look at the damage on my Outlander, and their recommendation was to augment the existing film. They too were concerned that the paint would come with it if the film were to be removed."
I have to say this is an incorrect assessment. I just had the OEM film removed from my Outlander today and replaced with extended 3M protective film. The work was done at a 3M certified shop and it did not affect the paint at all. The cost was $60 CAD+tax (cheaper then the OEM Clear Film Kit mentioned in a previous post).
The only issue I had was that for few chips, the touch-up paint came off when they applied the solution to prepare the area. If you go this route, be prepared to redo the touch-ups after they apply the solution and before they install the 3M film.
Other than that, the work was done at my satisfaction.
Next, I think I'll go go for a clear bra on the hood and front fenders. I have quite a few chips on those areas and it will only get worse in time. This will be around $250+tax job.
In spite of all that bad comments about the Outlander XLS V6, I bought one because it suited my requirements (front seats that recline backward almost flat, where I could sleep, my partner and I), total carry weight equivalent to 8-passengers (i.e. 2-persons plus total weight (luggage) equivalent to 6- adult persons inclusive of a roof box), 115V connection (e.g. juice maker, or evening lamps, laptop movies etc), Navigation System and keyless engine starter, electrical driver seat to mention some goodies.
I took this car first onto the Alaska Highway until Fairbanks (Alaska) and then onto the Dalton Highway all the way to Deadhorse. I drove fast 70 miles up on tarmac and 50-60 miles on unpaved road (gravel). On my way to Deadhorse I overtook a Subaru Outback and on my way back I overtook a Subaru Forester (the old version). The journey back took me 11 hours from Deadhorse to Fairbanks (around 500 miles). The whole of the journey the Outlander was fully loaded with camping stuff (included a gas cooker, collapsible table, chairs, tent, crockery air pumps, car care stuff, food, books, etc.
The Outlander soaked bump and potholes (5 to 6 inches wide) easily to my surprise. On our way back to Fairbanks it took us more than 3 hours to clean the car that was full of mud (sometimes 3 inches thick). The rear mud flaps were damaged and the “outlander” logos on the rear mud flaps were practically destroyed. The good news was that the car only has very few paint chips (six tiny ones in total) around 1/16 inches wide) in the front (nose) but nothing in the side of the car where many in this forum have complained about paint chipping. We are sure that the mud flaps installed in the front and rear has done an excellent job of preventing paint chipping on the car and I can assure you that the mud flaps work. We also installed the plastic transparent film. My mud flaps were OEM imported from Japan.
My Outlander has lost 2 nuts (plastic nuts) that hold the plastic protector in the wheel arches (rear). A number of nuts under the driver facia are loose and who know where more nuts are loose. The car has now a light rattle noise that becomes apparently when the car hits gravel or potholes on the road. I am planning now to take the car back to service (8K miles), so they can tighten up the car and so perhaps get rid off of the rattle.
Another thing to mention is the Navigation system works in USA and Canada with exception of Alaska. Fortunately we had a Garmin GPS to guide our journey in Alaska.
We are so far happy with our Outlander. It is smooth on tarmac but the car, although it behaves reasonably OK on gravel, is not for long punishment on gravel roads or soft off road tracks. Suspension seems to be soft and when the car is fully loaded there is very short wheel clearance to negotiate bumping roads or potholes without banging noises (few occasions).
You are right, the regular mudguards do not totally protect the side of the car, but they do reduce the height of the exposed area on the door flares and the bottom of the doors. I got a pretty good depiction of the risk areas on the doors from driving in snow slush last winter before and after I installed the regular mudguards. Protecting those areas with 3M protective film and door garnish would totally solve the problem in my opinion. Of course the stones would still hit the car, but I hope the 3M film would do its job preventing the chips from damaging the paint. The door garnish would probably get chipped over time too but it's made of plastic so it wouldn't rust and it can be touched up eventually.
Obviously, the super-sized mudflaps from Japan would do a much better job than the regular ones available in North America, virtually eliminating the possibility of the stones to even hit the car.
2) 21-23 MPG is my average range for V6, suburban warm weather driving. On highway I saw numbers from 23 MPG (with strong cross wind, 75 mph) to 27MPG (calm day, 65MPG).
Try get to steady speed 65-70 mph with light traffic on the highway and then press and hold reset button. Cruise this way for a few miles, and you will be surprise by your MPG number. As soon as you exit, and go into stop and go traffic, it will drop like a rock. Maybe those good reports are coming from people living in more rural areas than you?
And yes, 4cyl and V6 have to move around about the same weight.
I am a new owner of the vehicle above... so far so goooood... I am happy for the looks (black with black leather), sporty feel, Rockford Fosgate stereo and room for 7. Things I am missing most from my '04 Murano: the compass/garage door opener on the rearview mirror; memory for the driver's seat, as I am 5'11" and my wife 5". We only have one car so every time I need to drive, i have to adjust the seat from outside the vehicle or I won't even get in...
Two things I need help with:
1) Does anyone know where to get an owners manual cheap (or free)? the dealer quoted me $57 plus tax (in our case a hefty 10.5% more) which I thought was outrageous
2) Can I / Should I replace the radio for the OEM Navigation? Can I buy it at any site? Is it the same type / power system as my original one (subwoofer, amp, etc)?? I am between doing this or buying a portable GPS for my wife (ours got stolen recently).
Thanks !! :shades:
I don't know how integrated the RF stereo is with the head/display. That is, I don't know if you can stick the navi display in front of the stereo or if they're a single unit. Internally I'm sure they're the same but that doesn't mean they're packaged that way. For instance, the navi will also have a GPS receiver that may or may not be integrated into the unit.
Personally, I prefer in-dash navi units but in your case I'd recommend a handheld. I wouldn't settle for replacing the RF with anything less powerful and I've a gut feeling the OEM navi will be too expensive, especially with installation costs on top of parts. Also, as a replacement part it would probably only be warranted for a year while right now, depending on mileage, you may have significantly longer than that on your warranty.
If you're in the area, check out the Mitsu Owners Day. The first is in Cypress, CA but there will be a coupe of others: http://www.mitsubishicars.com/MMNA/jsp/owners-site/owners-day.do . I plan on taking my '10 GT to the Chicago area MOD; I think it'll be in August.
as to the Navigation, I would replace the RF stereo only for the original Navi + HD music package, which I believe fits exactly into the slot provided in the dash replacing the RF unit. My question was to owners of cars with original navi + stereo, if it still has a great sound and the subwoofer and amp work...