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does the vacuum hose to the hubs need to be plugged off after disconnecting it? and do I also need to disconnect the electrical connector?
Thanks
Dailydata
registration is free.
have disconected vacuum pipe from solinod to try it today
do you think i might be the abs having a faulty sensor kicking causing it
Dailydata
dailydata
people want to blame cheap parts not themselves for lack of maintenance
Yes, just find a piece of small solid tubing to join the 2 hoses. Well you can do the test by plugging back into the solenoid just as it was before then running on 4x4. As the valve is obviously contaminated my dust, rust, or whatever, (just as mine was when I bought it) I just wish you do not scrape the hubs again if you revert the T-case to 2WD and some stray vacuum still passes through the unenergized valve and tries to keep the hubs applied.
If the 4WD proves functional...proving the hubs have survived and the system is air tight, then unplug everything to revert to 2WD and look for ways to clean or replace the solenoid valve (I cleaned mine and all went fine during summer - summer is nice on seals - ...until the vacuum hub system proved itself unable to sustain operation at -30° in winter. That is when I reluctantly said goodby to vacuums..Kia Canada had a "recall" on the hubs and replaced them for free with Warn auto-mechanical).
WHIle this is not an absolute, it should be investigated.. ..access to the crank sensor is not as easy as it seems on the photo: it can be accessed from under the car. '96 is OBD2, probably. Do you have the Check ENgine Light set?
However it is now an endless money pit. My latest problem is the smell of unburnt gas flooding the :sick: interior of the car when it is started. The smell of gas is so strong that you can smell it out side the vehicle as you walk up to it. I have to let it warm up as I live in Alaska. I took it in and the mechanic found that the exhust manifold was SPLIT in two...about to fall apart, he fixed that and thought he had fixed the problem..but no such luck. I had it in the shop all last week and they were able to duplicate the problem, but after 5 days could not really find out where the fumes were coming from and why they were being brought in the the cab of the vehicle. So they changed the O rings on the fuel injector..but that is not the problem either.
Does anyone have any ideas..I am about to go broke on this one. And am very worried about the safty issues of raw gas fumes flooding the interior of the vehicle.
Also with what I have gone thru with this car in the last year...I will never buy a Kia. I have changed the alternator, timing belt, fan, water pump, had the 4x4 fixed (only to be told I needed to spend the money to put manual locking hubs as the repair will not last, as the vacume locking 4x4 doesn't work on these vehicles) exhust manifold replaced
Read THIS
I called my mechanic as soon as I read your posting today, and they are going to look at the problem tomorrow...I have my fingers crossed.
He had decided that it wasn't the O rings on the fuel injectors...but the fuel injectors and has ordered them and was going to replace them. Hopefully you have supplied me with the real solution.
Thank you again
EDIT: I checked with RockAUto.com and the c.v. half shafts are the same, hence same size and spline count, hence, hubs are the same.
Notice warn also makes cam type #61918 automechanical that work very well for general use. For severe off-road abuse, I think the manual warn# 60247 will endure more.
Mine has the automechanical.
4buy4
I own a 2002. Hub are same. everything is same as the 2001. We have an added foot rest for driver; is all that's different.
Many after-markets list only up to the 2001 year.
HERE
It is free and you have access to the authentic kia SHOP manuals, as well as diagrams, OBD codes....etc
ONce registered, click SHOP , Choose your model as Sportage(AL), not (KM), then year 2001...,then click SHOP again and browse through the menu. by the way they list "transaxle" but they mean transmission.
Any suggestion/direction to fixing these issues would be greatly appreciated.
P1115 is colant temperature problem, most probably a wiring /contat problem...anyway if car does not overheat this is not en emergency.
Are you able to remove the intake duct then plastic cover to access coils? I'll post instructions and photos.
So.....try to pin point the exact nature of the smell.
Whe does that happen? just after starting? or once warmed up, or during acceleration or hill climbing....
This makes me think of something I experience with my Sportage...as well as my Pontiac Transport, kind of "acrid" smell, in conditions of advanced throttle position like going up a long hill..but I never made a positive identification: seems like "hot metal" smell...
may be some stray exhaust, but I have no "real" leak in the system....
power distribution.
ignition switch.
relay control.
fuses.
(all these based on sportage 2000)
What keeps the relay ON ..or tries to, is the ECM..... The relay is always ON on the HOT side, and energised on the ground side from the ECM.... I suspect it receives the command from the ECM at KEY ON..... so that opens a lot of options: ignition switch, faulty driver in the ECM, ....may be internal partial short within the relay..., salt intrusion, . all questions open at this time....
To avoid confusion, please state model year ?
Just remove the 2 screws and connector and rinse in carb cleaner or gas. ALmost no cost and it clears this option.