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Were any codes read before changing all of that? Working blind is costly. Better test than guess. If nothing else was modified (all that was disconneceted was reconnected, coils, IAC valve, hoses...) ...then is there any doubt about quality of parts installed..were coils new or salvage?...
Please provide any other relevant info that would procure a clue...
P1624
P0326
P0171
P1115
P0300
P0303
P1505
P0130
recently changed valve cover gasket and we bought the knock sensor but have not put it on because I cannot find it on the car, the coild where new.
P0130 O2 sensor Short in Front O2 sensor wiring between C211-11 and C211-12.
Misplaced, bent, loose or corroded connector terminals.
Faulty Front O2 sensor.
P0300 303 various misfire/misfire plug 3 : this plug is fed by a wire from the front coil. Were the wires to 1 and 3 changed too with the coils? This little piece of wire is able to cause problems. 't was a problem with mine last summer.
P0171 lean (caused by lots of possible factors..possibly by the faulty O2 sensor)
P0326 knock Open or short to GND between Knock Sensor and ECM terminal #70.
Source of high resistance between Knock Sensor and ECM terminal #70.
Faulty Knock Sensor.
Proprietary codes
P1624 signal request
P1115 loss of coolant temperature signal Short to GND or B+ between ECM and TCM on ECT line.
Open between ECM and TCM on ECT line.
P1505 idle control Open or high resistance between Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) and ECM.
Short to B+ or GND between IAC and ECM.
Faulty IAC.
Were these the codes BEFORE changes were made? or is this a recent code check (after initial codes were cleared) ?
There seems to be loss of contact with a lot of sensors and actuators.. This car is known for fualty plugs, corrosion, to the point that even KIA advises to solder wires directly to sensors..but I do not like that; I'd check and clean and test all connections to sensors mentioned; MAF, IAC valve should be checked for continuity. IAC is not prone to failure, but can be dirty too.
Was this car used off road and run across rivers or mud ponds? (there are nice (??) videos of this on the web) ..or used in areas where salt is used in winter ?
Ahh..and knock sensor is here but does not cause starting problems. Priority is lead to plug 3 and proper IAC valve operation, and connecetor to MAF.
If you go back to spark plugs, pull #1 wire and insert a spare spark plug and start to see if you have spark....otherwire you'll never know.
Yes, failed Crank Position Sensor will impair spark...but usually it gives advance signs..like starts easily, then stops once engine warm...will restart once cold...
no it was only driven on plain ole roads.
NOw, investigation: just to be sure, I'd pull the IAC valve out and clean it. Stuck IAC valve was mentioned in a lot of Sportage forums as causing rough idle and starting problems...and it can cause lean mixture code too. Check all hoses and connection around purge valve front right fender....and again, check all sensor connectors for corrosion....
What is your operation environment at this time? Snow?
There are code readers at less than $100 and I think they may save more than their price by cutting blind investigation. reading the numbers as soon as they come can help...and some numbers have no incidence on operational availability so it cuts anxiety.
But...a lot of troubles also go without generating any codes....and some other codes are their consequence, not their cause.
Whatever you find, please report: everyone learns from the other here .
I'd still be tempted to pull a plug wire and see for spark....and make a fuel pressure test on the fuel rail (42-45 psi) : spark and fuel are a must...and this issue must be cleared before anything else. I built a fuel pressure tester with an a/c refilling kit and water pump pressure gauge. THe check ball must be taken out of the connector . THe schrader valve for a/c is same as fuel rail.
....short of testing fuel rail pressure.....you can buy a spray can of starter fluid and use it while trying to start...
DO you hear the fuel pump "primer" 2 sec buzz when you trun the key to ON? (to help hearing it, flip the rear seat and have someone listen near the trap under rear right seat.
It is certain car will never start if fuel is not delivered, First when pump does not "buzz" is testing for 12v supply..this comes from relay under hood:
There are 2 identical relays, abd they can be switched one for the other..but both are essential for engine to start...first try just to remove them and replug them. CHeck fuses in box.
COrrosion and ground connections (under battery tray) are a common problem.
12V could be supplied direct to fuel pump for a test.
Steady HOLD is when you use the button on shifter to disable overdrive(4th).
Flashing HOLD mean there is a problem and error codes are stored.
is the Check Engine Light ON?..probably; arrange for reading the codes. Autozone read them for free. Copy the code numbers .
Have you checked the sensors near thermostat as suggested by GaryInOz at 4x4?
P0507
P1623
P1795
any ideas? Thanks
That is free and you will have access to all the codes (DTC) . their meaning and the areas of concern that might be inspected for the cause. DO not take ALL the possibilities as components you must change: tests must be made to verify if the mentioned component is the actual culprit.It happens that connectors to the components are corroded and just need cleaning, a common problem with Sportage. .
When I break the warning light comes on followed by the ABS and then goes off when I pull away
IF this does not correct the problem, provoque auto adjustment or rear brakes in the following manner:
find a place where you can back-up 10-15 feet without danger.
Engage in reverse, then accelerate fast then brake hard to a stop
FOrward where you were and repeat 10 times. After this operation, you will probably feel the brake pedal travel has shortened.
Auto adjust for rear brakes operates in backward only and if brake is always used softly in reverse, brakes do not adjust and take more and more travel to apply and while front pads are always tight, it takes more travel to apply the rear and this mismatch causes BRAKE light to come ON"
A few "simple" checks first:
Confirm you have changed the rear coil pack..
Also..confirm which light is flashing: CEL or HOLD ?
Was there any oil on plug 4?
CHeck gas filler cap is tight and all hoses to purge tank (front of battery) are OK.
CHeck that all hoses that connect ot top of fuel tank are OK (remove cover under rear right seat).
Remove and clean Idle Air COntrol valve
Measure voltage when engine runs.14 to 14.5 volts desired.
Misfire on cylinder 4. Idles really rough when sitting and gets horrible gas mileage
..I"d expect more codes..that sounds like improper fuel mixture. Can you check codes again? (MAF, O2..)
You say "when pressing pedal there is more pressure"....this implies the engine is running, right? ANd indeed the regulator senses vacuum and increases fuel pressure with depressing throttle.
With the new pump you have, I'd look for other causes. Unhappily, this problem comes frequently and other than some that were solved with changing the fuel pump relay, other definitive causes have not been clearly reported.
Did you feed the pump direct with 12V and listen to the sound it makes or the resulting fuel pressure? Do you have access to a fuel pressure gauge?
I would also install a voltmeter to measure is 12V is applied to the fuel pump relay coil contacts : you need help to do that as it shoudl show for only 1 or 2 sec when first turning the key to ON. You must read it on the first try cause the computer will prevent repetitive primer to avoid flooding if key is turned to ON repetitively with too small a delay .
FuelPumpCircuit
circuit99
Notice pin numbers for the relay coil are not he same.... I'm not too sore which year was the other one..will check...means they changed relay type over the years.
Thermostat is here:
Several owners have replaced the clutch fan with an electric fan when they figured out the clutch was shot..
THe "pulsating" headlights let me think the alternator belt is slipping....can you have a helper make a real time voltage measurement when that happens? (possibly from the lighter plug). WHen that occurs, what happens if you turn the heater blower off?
Now my next question would be what kind of instrument would i need to check the voltage? And in answer to your question about the heater when i turn it on they pulsate worse.
Thanks
WHere do you live? What is the outside temperature? Yes begin by simply removing the thermostat....open, remove and close: this will make or break the thermostat hypothesis. There are other more severe causes that would keep the temp high even without a thermostat....like a blown head gasket...but it is not a common issue with the Sporty: there are a few cases, but not a common syndrome like the GM3.4
OBviously your alternator does not deliver high amps and is overloaded by heavy demand....again I'd check alternator belt for wear and tightness. I think it slips. Otherwise, the built in regulator can be shot...go with the belt first. If it pulses like you say, then voltage goes up and down...and a common electrician multimeter , digital or needle type, 20$ range, will simply confirm....but then even the steady state voltage could be interesting if tightening (changing) the belt does not cure the problem. NOrmal voltage when engine runs should be 14.1 - 14.7
I have a 2001 sportage, there is no power it feels like it is running out of gas. I have just replaced the air filter, coil, sparkplugs, timing belt, water pump, fuel filter and then had to change the battery. Could this be the fuel pump and if so is there a way to check prior to purchasing a new one.
...had to change the battery....??? why?
WHen voltage runs low (for alternator problem) engine starts being erratic : injectors do not fire, spark is poor, ..and battery runs down. Test voltage (14.2-14.7)
(if that was original battery....it was expected death).
Testing for fuel pressure at fuel rail (40 psi) will make the point about fuel pump....
don't change the fuel pump just for testing!
There have been cases of blocked catalyser....again do not change a catalyser just for testing....disconnect exhaust and run a test with a lot of noise....(That's fun)...
I will also tomorrow check on the belt and see if it is loose, if it is is there any certain torque it needs to be set at or should i just tighten it? The as soon as i can get my hands on a multimeter i will check the voltage. now would i stick both the pos and neg in the cig lighter or just the positive?
Thanks again
BLown gasket will show other signs: heater will provide sporadic heat, temp needle will fluctuate, steaming, having to top off the radiator and coolant tank from time to time....
Removing the radiator cap and running engine after topping off the rad if necessary could show gaz bubbles coming out (that is exhaust leaking into the cooling system). A few "air" bubbles to begin with is not a concern but a gasket leak can give a regular outpour of bubbles.
Thanks again stressed :sick: out kia owner
I'm afraid it generates a gaz bubble taht escapes at start up then additional gaz can escape without showing bubbles as the level is down. Do that again but once it "goes back to original resting place", keep it running and top off to the rim with coolant to see if gas bubbles escape.
DO you have coolant left in the reserve tank?
YOur question tells you know what is involved....I have NOT ckecked myself...just assumed there is one like my other car....I will try to locate it :confuse: and return....
read this
I understand you have changed the thermostat....
ANd yes, exhaust invasion will impair coolant circulation but I'm still not committed to that explanation without further signs. WHen you use the heater DO you have a steady heat flow coming from the heater or are there times at which no heat comes??
Apart from hte needle that goes up, are there other signs of overheating? Steaming?
One test I used to test gasket leak is applying compressed air to spark plug hole, after rotating the engine so the valves to that cylinder are closed. COMpressed air will try to push piston so it must be really at the top . IF there is a leak on one cylinder, the air will go to cooling circuit and bubbleup at the radiator cap.
Now by compressed air do you mean canned air or the air i would use to blo up a tirer on the car?
FOr diagrams, I can post some but better register yourself to www.kiatechinfo.com and grab everything you want first hand, diagrams, repair manuals, codes....
ANd I talked of compressed air as you use for tires but the more you say, the less I think you might have a gasket problem....and since you say heater works well, I have no doubts you do have water circulation which is rather difficult to observe from the radiator cap.
HOw does the fan behave, specially just after engine is started: normally it runs with a whooshing noise for a few seconds then slowly clutches down...
It might turn out all you have is a false temperature indication....and I wish this is the case....I'd try to use your kitchen candy thermometer in the radiator to have a 2nd temperature opinion....
I'd find an air compressor and test as I said. It is just so annoying the plugs are out of easy reach...but it is not such a tedious job anyway. You will have to remove the valve cover.
engine
THose complaining of fan clutch failure were mostly living in very warm environment and used A/C ; in cool temperatures, highway speed is sufficient even without a fan...
Was the water pump changed at same time as timing belt (I think you said the belt had been changed...right). BUt Water pumps fail for bearings generally and that makes noise and leaks, not boiling.....
And do i have to take all that off just to give it a tune up?? :surprise:
WHen you say "take all that off to give it a tune"...I suppose y0u mean the valve cover...hey?...well just to change the spark plugs, no. You would need to remove the intake tube and the plastic cover...and then you have the coils and the holes to the spark plugs..the plugs are hidden under down there and you grab them with a plug socket and an extension to your ratchet...
..and possibly, you could apply air to the plug holes .. it is a long reach....but possible...but you would have some problem seeing which piston is at top dead center without seeing the cam position....
THe first time I had to do the spark plugs, I thought it was hell to have to do all of that just to reach the plug...and I still think the same...but in fact, a plug change can be done in just a little more than an hour...and with 8 or 9 extra 10mm bolts, the valve cover is out..and then back in. ANnoying, but easy and straight forward.