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Then start and let the engine run, then unplug and check "vacuum from reserve" hose, and then if OK plug back and check the "vacuum to hubs" port when 4WD is applied and 4WD light is ON.
If no vacuum, then connect direct "vacuum from reserve" to "vacuum to hubs" using small piece of plastic tubing.
IF hubs still do not apply, hubs are shot....a common occurrence ..or the bearing seals are shot... THese hubs do not wotk well in cold climates anyway. Best Change for Warn manual or autos...too bad because the vacuum are the most convenient and provide seamless operation ..when they work.
I am about to start test driving cars this week. The kia sportage is high on my list of cars I'm interested in. I had a mechanic to tell me they have lots of problems, the parts are expensive & can only be obtained from the factory, and that his customers with kias have not had much luck getting the company to honor their warranties. What can ya'll tell me about this? Thanks!
Newer models are Hyundai, in fact, copycat of Tuckson, and are car based; they were rated high recently in COnsumers Report.
www.kiatechinfo.com
About codes, indeed it generates them quite easily, specially spark and purge canister. IF you have a chance to read them though, go for it , at least, for the record. Autozone will read them for free in the USA, I'm told.
It was a good idea to disconnect the TCC...just in case, because it happens that a stuck or sticky TCC solenoid valve would stall the engine as soon as a gear is engaged, or, more often, after normal starting, running, then when coming to a stop. But if the valve is stuck in the activated state, that could explain the case...maybe just needing a little more hydraulic pressure as trigged when depressing throttle.... In fact, please state it clearly, do you mean that after having disconnected the TCC, it would not stall anymore....? ..in which case the voltage problem would be "in addition to...", but not "related to...."
Is the "check engine light" ON?....If so, read the codes and post.
Thanks for the advice. You sound very knowledgable. However, this stupid car is stalling again. The guys at the dealer said that they disconneted the torque converter to stop the car from stalling. I'm at my wits end. It ran all the way back from the dealer's (about 15 miles) and now it's stalling again! Still starts right up, but step on the gas and I get about 10 feet before it stalls. You mentioned reading the codes, but I don't have any way to do this, but according to the dealer, they had codes for alternator, cam sensor, timing belt, water pump, transmission, etc. etc. Trust me, the guy who's been working on my car says their wrong. The only reason I took the car to the dealer was to have it coded. This is the first time in 10 years that he's been stumped and this guy is an amazing diagnostition. If you've got any other ideas...we're open!
I'm told AUtozone will read the codes for free in the USA. IF you can, then write down the codes and post them here. Buying a code reader..$100 will do it, is a good investment. although it does not provide necessarily the culprit , it can be a great help and avoids nerve cracking visits to the dealer...
... alternator, cam sensor, timing belt, water pump, transmission....interesting, but one at a time that is, I'm somewhat skeptical of all that together, but at least check the voltage with a simple multimeter....that would clear one item....
Were there any other symptom you can have noticed before it turned unserviceable?
.
OBD2
..if there is a store near you, don't miss it...several members on another Sportage forum tell it works perfectly.
It refers to "selected gear encoder signal" sent from transmission to computer . Generally no effect is seen but it can limit rpm or car speed . As described, a faulty contact either from witing of the encoder itself is the culprit.
This is not an "offensive" code and somtimes it is a one time incident and the light will turn off after a few cycles. As long as there are no other syptoms, look for all wires connected to transmission, plugs properly insrted in sockets, remove any dirt, check for chaffing, ..and wait and see...
Those living in warm areas have complained about this quite often. Check if electric AC cooling fan in front of radiator turns on when AC is trigged ON. ALso there is a thermostatic switch on right radiator tank..that is passenger side of radiator. YOu can bypass it with a jumper to test the fan. The fan relay is under the dash.
OF course check all obvious issues like clogging of radiator by leaves and other debris. The viscous clutch fan drive has been blamed in some occasions too. It is quite common to get rid of it and replace it with an electric fan.
"redid the timing".....???..was the timing off the mark...and why?..or you mean you just checked it out...
Was the timing belt changed before?
BY the way, if you go for a heater core change, you can do from inside the car, without touching the AC evaporator....not the excruciating way the KIA manual says....
I.m still not confortable with the idea that "timing was off".....since this indicates the timing belt skipped cogs, this is serious business....again, was the t-belt changed before? And realignment of cams properly done...
mark1
mark2
Is it possible cam journals had seized...?
1st: the rear brake lights are on the fritz. Sometimes they all work fine, sometimes the left side will work and not the right and vice versa, and sometimes they won't work at all. I've already replaced the bulbs, but that's not it, they still do the same thing.
2nd: The ESC light comes on at random. And pressing the button will not make it go away.
3rd: The cruise control works at random. Also, it won't work if my headlights are on.
Are all these related to one common system in the car?
Thank you for any ideas, suggestion, help, etc. you can offer.
2 and 3: mmm...ESC...not familiar with the new model....but cruise and traction control and ABS need speed correlation from car speed pickup and wheels sensors....and...if headlights impair cruise, I'd look for contacts/grounds again...
I now will have the water pump, timing belt,tension pulley, thermostat and coolant changed since the vehicle has 121,000 miles on it. This way it should be good for another 100,000 miles.
beckymcutchen@yahoo.com
But I am concerned there may be engine damage, particularly if this is an interference type engine rather than non-interference type, i.e. possible valve or piston damage. Does any one know if the 2002 Sportage has an interference or non-interference type engine?
As well, is there substantial risk there could have been bearing, cylinder wall, or valve seal damage due to lack of lubrication? Clearly, not having lubrication even for a short time is not a good thing, it is not clear to me that 30 seconds or so of the engine being turned over would require damage to the extent of engine overhaul. Thoughts?