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Comments
..well, the only (well, major) factor impacting the timing is... the timing belt.....so, either they did check "both", or they didn't.. SO for me, this issue is not clear.
The other factor is the knock snesor but its impact is minor although noticeable, and it would throw a code.
In fact....you did not mention if you had a code or not....
Sporty engines have a lot of idiosyncrasies....very hard to pinpoint the exact cause for several errances....but at least, you must start with a sound base...and I consider the Tbelt as a definite suspect to be cleared safe and sure, and then you can continue without any doubt lingering behind. I suggest you pay a visit ; ajustment of the tensioner is critical and it is possible the belt can jump a cog or two.
OK..this contradicts the Tbelt issue, indeed. Was a fuel pressure test conducted?
I replaced the timing belt, and water pump. I installed a new radiator. I replaced the spark plugs. I replaced the the coolant temperature sensor. I am getting a code that my oxygen sensor is bad.
Did you check your fuel pressure, as you were asked? Have you solved your problem? I have spent a good deal of cash replacing the wrong parts, and still can not cold start this car!!! -Thomas-
I don't know the other "AIC" code, but a Parts person at a local Auto Parts store should know what it is. Thank you for responding.
-Thomas-
.....and that would probably translate into a poor O2 reading, probably lean.
...AIC...may be mispelled for IAC.....Idle AIr CONtrol valve.....would make sense too....frequently the culprit with difficult starting.... I think you said you had it cleaned....but check electrical contacts to that part...and may be its real condition..
Thanks,
Gary
I am planning to buy a New-08 Sportage FWD 2.0L I4 Auto in Michigan later moving to California in a month. I find good deal here in Michigan.
My first idea is about the fan: it is driven through a clutch; it makes a lot of noise as described when it is engaged; normally the clutch would engage only when temp is very hot, usually after idling hot in warm temperatures, and sometimes for a very limited time on a very cold start. Open the hood and check for that first; the clutch might also be blocked: try to rotate the fan by hand (...when engine is stopped, of course.... ) ..it should rotate almost freely.
I'd like the practice of posting "sounds" to be implemented more often as most digital cameras have a sound pickup feature; it generates a sound file that one can easily post...just as this one: starting my SPorty
Here is what happened: Last week I drove my vehicle about 50 miles or so, when I parked my car I found a leak in the upper radiator hose. It was spraying out forcefully and steaming from under the hood.
I placed a new hose and there was no problem until yesterday. I made another 50 mile trip and this time my vehicle showed overheating. When I parked it water was spilling out again. It was nightime and was unable to see where it was coming from. I thought maybe my hose hadnt been clamped tight enough so I tightened it. The next day I put more antifreeze in it and drove around the block a couple times. It stated showing signs of overheating again and I parked it and saw more fluid coming out.
When I turn on the heater the temperture drops pretty quickly. I thought maybe the water pump so I checked by attempting to move the fan with my hand or see if it made any sounds. The fan is secure and moves with the force of my hand but no more. So it seems there is pressure in the water pump.
Could it be just the thermostat?
That was my first thought. You can examine it for obvious flaws or replace it cheaply and, with a little luck, fix the problem without looking for the more expensive possibilities.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Possibilities:
Thermostat: yes: impairs circulation through main radiator, but not through heater core.
Water pump: improbable, since water is obviously circulating through the heater core as you have proven; it could not without the pump working.
Fan clutch: improbably as you have resistance when turning by hand...anyway, check that is rotates forcefully as the engine gets hotter; there have been cases of fan clutches being shot...but I do not know the temperature where you live; it has an impact on diagnosis.
Last: blown head gasket....but usually it impairs pump operation (exhaust/air enters the cooling circuit) and you would have very poor heating from the heater....but "when you turn the heater, the temperature drops pretty quickly"...which temperature? That of the engine of that of the air coming out of the heater...?
I thought that is what you said it did in your original posting? ("It was spraying out forcefully and steaming from under the hood.") In any case, the thermostat should be an easy thing to check out.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
The fan is in good shape, it runs fine and turns noramally as always.
I think the crack i orgionally had in my upper radiator hose may have been caused by the thermostat not opening and forcing the older hose to crack causing my initial break.
Does that help, with your assessment?
... I do not like the above quote.... but before gearing for the worst, try simple things first...change the thermostat to make things clear....in fact, you can run a test by simply removing the thermostat and run without it ..but if all trouble proove cleared out at that time, you'll have to go again and install a new one, so you might choose to install a new one right away. Report findings. By the way, even with the radiator cap opened ( then no pressure build up), the water would circulate, temperature would rise and thermostat would open on temperature, not pressure.
should read
"...my engine overheats causing the fluid to come out ....the fluid didnt spill out until it overheats "
...cause and effect
Now lets see what happens with a new thermostat...but before that, notice you can test your thermostat on your electric range in boiling water using a candy thermometer...thermostat should open around 195...if it does...then there is another cause...
So I put on a new thermostat.(had some trouble with the housing due to steel screws in aluminum holes) but once everything was sorted out and new thermostat was in I have been driving and on three seperate occasions nothing has happened.
I pray that was it. It was about 9 years old and gone through a couple flush kits with heavy rust, so I think it was time for it to go. But thanks for the help.
Spindle nut must be torqued just enough to eliminate play, that is,almost just past finger tight; more than than and the bearing will seize.
Generally, bearing failure will be accompanied by seal damage and loss of vacuum so the hubs would not operate any more...that is, if you still have the original vacuum hubs.
Thanks Damon Waggoner
1.what is the engine break-in period and the maximum speed limit I should maintain during the break-in?
2.What grade gas should I put?
3.Will Mobile-1 10w-25 Fully Synthetic is good as engine oil?
4.Should I change the Air filter to K & N for better performance?
5.What tire pressure is good?
1. Whatever the manual says for the break-in period. Don't put it on cruise, but vary the speed.
2. Whatever the label on your gas tank flap says.
3. I'd use what the owner's manual says. It probably doesn't say not to use synthetic, but I think it's overkill for the average car. But it's on sale right now at Advance Auto if you gotta have it (if you don't have Advance Auto in your area try Checkers or Kragen). And AutoZone has Quaker State full synthetic on sale right now too.
4. I like OEM paper filters myself. I think they do a better job than the aftermarket ones and I don't believe the hype.
5. Try using the psi recommended on the tire label that should be on your driver's side door pillar. For a little bit better mpg (or if you are hauling a load on your long trip), you could try bumping up the cold psi recommendation up a couple of pounds. If you find the ride a bit harsh, then you could dial it back to the recommended number.
CHeck THIS THREAD out. It appears this is a common issue with Mazda engines (which Sporty is).
There have been several cases of blocked catalytic converters....I,d disconnect the exhaust for a free exhaust test....