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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair

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  • tell your mechanic to check the top of the fuel pump hanger assembly mine was doing the same thing and it was leaking fuel through a tiny pin hole under all the rust replaced the fuel pump hanger assembly (around $300) and now fine it also gets much better gas mileage
  • Ive had my car for 3 weeks so far and it has spent more time parked in the garage then it has at my house...

    my car will rev up all on its own. first time I noticed it, I was stopped at a red light and all the sudden my car felt like it was going to take off on me. I had to push down on the brake with all my might to keep myself from rear ending the car in front of me. It happens often, but not all the time. Its very sparatic. My husband thought I was over reacting, until one day we went to walmart, we were only inside for maybe 20 mins. We came out and when I started the car up it started revving up to 3500 rpm with out me touching anything....

    So my issue is, that it revs up when im stopped at a red light or stop sign, and that it revs up to 3500 when im in park. But not all the time...

    I took it to the garage 3 times so far and they cant figure it out. First time the cleaned the Throttle Body, then the next two times, I have no clue what they did... Except that the price goes up $150 each time and the problem still isnt fixed... :mad:

    Any one have this problem??
  • I have a problem with starting after filling up with gas. This problem only occurs after re-fueling,
    the engine will crank and try to fire up, and will eventually. Any suggestions?
  • sijonsijon Posts: 3
    Having issues with sportage. Will not stay running. I filled the gas tank and 15 minutes later driving i heard a pop in the right front area. No throttle pressure and the kia died. Since that i have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, compression test all cylinders at 155-165. Took both catylatic convertors off. Still can not start. Cranks over and ifit does start the rpms are at <100. I have spark at #1 and #3. I can not find the Shrader Valve to check the fuel pressure. I just ordered a Fuel Pressure Regulator. Any suggestions would be very helpful.Thx
  • peter931peter931 Posts: 13
    Disconect the battery and remove and replace main engine relay and fuel pump relay same time . They are under the hood in black plastick box .Reconnect the battery and your car will start up.
    Kia have a security switch and if you hit a bump it will disable your 2 realays.
  • all_ladyall_lady Posts: 2
    I had a guy put my kia on computer because I have no reverse and will not shift out of gear...also the hold light on dash flashes....the codes he got were P0750-Shift Solenoid A, P0650-Mil Control Circuit, and P1624 Manufacturer control, and then he reset it. so now the light quit flashing but it still won't shift into reverse or any higher than 2nd gear...what do I do now
  • lrotella01lrotella01 Posts: 1
    when i turn on either my air conditioning or anything in the unit nothing comes out. all the lights go on such as defogger and air condition but no air comes out. i also checked relay fuse and it is ok.
  • Hi,
    We're having the same problem with our sportage recently and today it wouldn't start. It sounded like it was stalling and then died, so its now in the garage, no word yet though.
    Any news???
  • sijonsijon Posts: 3
    it was my spark plug wires. i replace them and my kia is running great.
  • dortondorton Posts: 1
    You need to remove the battery to get to the fuel filter.
  • Having the same problem with my '05 Sportage; research points towards a valve in evap system? Finally going to dealer for their help. Meanwhile, driving to closest station and fueling after car cools down. Car runs great otherwise and has over 150K miles. Please reply if you find solution. Thanks!
  • I bought my Kia from my father for $3200, which I know is more than its worth with 94000 miles and the issues its had. When I idle for more than a few minutes (IE sitting in line in a drive-thru) it starts to overheat. My father told me he just replaced the 'clutch fan' (think he meant the fan clutch) and I noticed that when I turn off the AC it doesn't heat up as much but given time still does. He also told me that the brick in the catalytic converter was loose and makes a rattling noise and he had it checked by a mechanic who supposedly told him it wasn't an issue. However I really think that's crap .... it used to be that the noise only happened as I let off the clutch in first gear. However I now hear the rattling occasionally while idling and around every time I let off the clutch after shifting. It gets obnoxious around 3K rpm and I know at some point its been worked on cause everything from the rear catalytic converter back is GONE .... looks like someone just took a cutoff wheel and chopped it off for whatever reason. I know technically the car could run without the rear cat. but I really don't want to just chop it off cause other issues would be sure to follow. However the rattling continues to get worse and I'm afraid the whole darn thing's eventually gonna come loose. Any suggestions? I've graduated from an automotive school and though I don't have access to all the tools the school had I do have my own set of tools so if anyone knows of something I could do to help fix this please tell me.
  • I am having the same issues and i was wondering if you had gotten it fixed or if you even found out the what the problem was.
  • I just purchased a 2001 kia sportage and was having issues with power, when I read your post I got thinking and I had the same problem with the insulation. I cut it away and now I got some pep out of her and also shift great now too. thanks
  • Signed up for 2010 Kia Sportage LX 4x4 A/T (46K ml), but decided to sleep on it before finalizing the deal.
    Can you guys just give me you quick sense on the following:
    In general, is Kia Sportage approximately as reliable as (or in a reasonably relative terms as) Toyota RAV4 or Honda CR-V - I'm just asking strictly reliability-wise, no other comparison. I see Sportage most often compared to these two makes/models; they seem to play in the same niche.
    And, more specifically, at 45K miles (2010 model) is it "over the hill" or still has a whole bright future ahead of it? -- Would appreciate any feedback from those who are on their 50K, 60K, 70K, or even 80+K. What is a generally expected "sun-down"/"max-out"/"get rid of it, if you don't want to deal with repairs all the time" mileage threshold for Sportage -- what's your expectation and/or experience? How far would you be comfortable stretching it?

    Thanks a LOT for ANY advice!!!
  • My Sportage started misfiring about 40 days after I bought it. Check engine light came on. i checked for a cause and tried the remove gas cap and reseat it and the light went off. Two days later it came back up and I started feeling a misfire, found it was #4 (P0304 code). i was having the valve cover and plugs replaced and after that it ran fine though the light was still on. When I started it again 7 hours later it started misfiring again, but so far only on warmup and initial moving of the car from stops, otherwise it so far appears to not misfire. Any suggestions? :sick:
  • 4 wheel drive works in drive but not in reverse also trouble shifting into 4 low
  • 4 wheel drive works in drive,but not in reverse,also trouble shifting into 4 low gear
  • Had a complete tuneup done as they could not tell exactly what was the issue, $400 later vehicle is running fine.
    Now on to the delayed shifting issue into drive when it is cold.
  • i had th sam problm it was the computer that was going bad come to find out i had a bad ignition control modual(thing on top the spark plug there are 2) and it was shorting the whole thing out.replace the wires and moduals lik a norm tun up and if some othr coad pops up try th com.
  • i dont get it i have fixed everything on my sportage no special tools required the tune up is aser in it than my girlfrinds van.for tune up pull off intake unscrew the plastick cover then change the 2 moduals 2 wires 4 sparkplugs then put it back togeather tho only special tool u will need is a small sparkplug socket with the ruber boot in it or a magnat on a stick to pull the plugs out and set them back in
  • toast4toast4 Posts: 1
    I have a vehicle with a similar issue.(losing power uphill and seems to be limited to around3000 rpm) I don't see your resolution to your problem posted. I would really appreciate you telling me what finally fixed the problem.
    Thanks
  • tevinbtevinb Posts: 1
    ive notice that alot of people are have sputtering/stalling with the 2000 kia sportage . mine has just started to sputter and stail out when i come to a stop sign or leave it in park . i want to know if anyone has solved the problem. if so comment thank you
  • I have a 2001 Kia Sportage and I replaced the head gasket. I'm now trying to put everything back together and I have no idea what the part in the picture is. Any ideas?

    image

    image
  • I need the manual to correctly set up all the vacuum lines and everything else. I removed the head quite a while ago to have it repaired and now ity's back but I don't remember how everything goes.
    Can you help me out with pictures and diagrams of the engine bay setup?
    Thanks
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,252
    edited May 2012
    The links in the Online Repair Manuals discussion may help.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • I bought my Kia Sportage 2001 at a third party auction. Big mistake, you cant drive it around. The mechanic said the engine light was the Crank Sensor, I couldnt even make it threw a street light. I had to put my leg out and give it a shove just to make it to the gas station. The mechanic replaced the Crank Sensor, I was told not to take it to the dealer right away. HA! Little did I know. I went straight to the dealership, and I spent another 2300 on melted catalytic converter among other items and labor. I had only drove it less than 100 miles. Now, I still have the same issues, I added gas treatment(s) and that only made things worse, after I have drove it less than a 1000 miles. Sometimes i cant even get out into the intersection from a dead stop. If I get it to run, by putting it in LOW , then 2nd, and then drive to get it up to 45 miles an hour, then I can get up to 55-65+ miles an hr. But, if there is an incline i creap up by putting it in 2nd. Sometimes, it does not work in LOW nor 2nd, its like the fuel isnt getting in somewhere. I hate to spend anymore money into this Kia Sporate 2001, but I have no choice at this point. Next, I am doing all the suggestions off this site, and possibly changing the fuel filter and maybe the fuel pump to see that helps. I have to call back to the dealership who worked on it since the work is not itemized to where you know what was done.
    Any suggestions would be great.
  • jim298jim298 Posts: 9
    engine is probably out of time check timing belt first by compression test as the engine was built by mitsubishi details are vaguge compression is the only way to tell it doesnt take much a couple of notches and your out of luck this would explain the catilist failure i have one and have had little failures
  • badbetheebadbethee Posts: 2
    Service repair manual for 2000 Kia Sportage EX refers to "BOB pins" in the troubleshooting procedure section of emission control system. For example: "With engine idling, measure voltage at BOB pin 41 (0.9v to 1v)." Where are the "BOB pins located?" Is it a separate, specialized tool from Kia? Thank you for your assistance!
  • i own a 2002 Kia Sportage 5 spd manual trans. bought in May 2012 with 92,000 miles on it. Said to have 2 previous owners and it was in damn good shape. I bought it at a dealer that is Buy-here Pay-Here, since im young and dont want a 500 hundred dollars a month car note, that would be financed for 7 years, the insurance alone would have buckled my spending bubble.... but i bought my kia for 6 grand, $750 down, and a Dealer Warranty which has now saved my butt big time. I will have it paid off in a little less than two years from the time i got it, and with weekly payments. Ran great at first, Beautifully acctually......., atleast until the 3-day 100% Satisfaction Guarantee that the dealer offered expired and i was unable to trade it in for another car. The dealer offers a warranty for most parts under the hood, all major and some minor for 5 Months or 5,000 miles, whichever comes first. Had the car 5 days, and I stalled out in the parking lot of my job close to midnight and I couldnt get her to crank back up.. No lights in the dash came on, no check engine light, no nothing.... Battery wasnt dead, had a full tank of gas, and the motor still had compression, just no fire, she acted like it was starving, like it wasnt getting fuel, but when id turn the key on accessory, i couldnt here the hum of the fuel pump. So i checked my relays and all connections that i could find, and still noGo..... I let her sit a short time while I waited on my father-in-law(Pops) who owns a Service Center and is my personal mechanic when i cant figure it out myself... Tried again and she crunk right up, but immediately died 3 seconds later. Tried again and again, and it seemed like the motor would turn over a little less every time I turned the key over. Pops said it could be the fuel pump burnt up, but if it was the fuel pump, the motor would still have enough fuel in the lines to atleast run for a few seconds after stalling out. So we sit down on the curb for a lil while and let our minds twist around this lump of crap. I let her sit bout twenty minutes while we swapped out relays, fuses, and checked all the fluids. Everything looked perfect. So before Pops was ready to tow just yet, i got in, turned the key over and she started beautifully, and she stayed running, so i put in gear, no fail yet, hit the gas and off she went, until i got about 1500 ft. to the top of the hill and was almost stopped looking for traffic and she stalled out again, crunk right back up but died before i could ease off the clutch, i immediately tried 3 times, then it became a no crank zone again.... I just let her roll on back down the hill to level ground. Tested the waiting for 20 minutes theory again, but a BIG noGo whatsoever.... Pops is convinced its the fuel pump now for sure.... I asked about popping the clutch, and Pops said Naww, she aint gonna crank, but have a go and try it, just to ease that stubborn, bullheadedness of yours, but she aint gonna crank, oh and just in case IT DOES CRANK, hit the gas and dont let them wheels stop turning or slow down till you get her to the shop doors. So we pushed her and got a good speed on level ground, popped the clutch, but a noGo, 2 more times, still noGo. Then i told Pops just one more push and ill let you tow me back. So with no motivation, and neither one of paying attention to the slight up hill roll we had going, I popped the clutch and sure enough she turned over, perdy as could be, i took one spin roun the parking witch is just like a bowl, slopes on all sides, then i heard Pops holler "Better get her to shop while ya got a chance!" and i sped off like a bat outta hell, never once did I have to stop or slow down with it being 2 a.m., till i got to the bay doors at the shop 7 miles away. She sputtered a little bit at the door after being stopped for a few minutes in neutral with me slightly hitting the accelerator, just enough to keep her over 15K RPMS. As soon i put her in first and tried to ease off the clutch, she stalled out. we pushed up in the shop, and put the small computer to her brain, and it said "No Communication", so we tried the fancy new computer, hooked her up, and got absolutely nothing except the computer telling us that nothing is wrong. So we give up for the night, get some rest, and come back the next day around lunch time(it was the weekend so the shop was closed.) Get in, put the key in, turn it over and she cranks right up like the night before had never happened, and she continued to run to till i shut her off a half hour later, and put a pressure test on the fuel lines. No problems whatsoever. Went ahead and did a tune-up, oil change, balance and rotate the tires, and do a front end alignment.. test drive after test drive.. then with the car completely inspected and finally approved by A very confused and completely stumped ole Pops. Said he never had seen anything like it, not from that extreme of the motor starving so badly to it not missing a lick the next day, with it not being touched by a soul!!!! She ran perfect for two weeks, then one night half way home, the check engine light came on. Pops was out of town and the shop locked up, so i went to AutoZone and had them hook up their computer. Its came back the o2 sensors, both of them. They printed out a list of possibilities that could be the problem with the sensors, which was no help at all.... but still the car ran smoothly. Took it to the dealer and they sent me to their mechanic, some real old man, he put his fancy computer on it, said the o2 sensors were fine, what the problem was, was that the o2 sensors were showing numbers on the computer that read around the same numbers (for example... Left-328 Right- 416, then, Left-856, Right-924) where as normal o2 sensor numbers on a car that runs right, the numbers should be running opposite of each other (EX.-- Left 352, Right- 986, and vise versa) The old man said that it was my catalytic converters that were messed up, that they werent clogged up, but that the centers were burnt out!!!! He said that the ethynol in gasoline is what causes this to happen, the fumes will acctually get soo hot in the exhaust pipes that it will burn a hole thru them. I had told the old man my story Ive just told you and he said that my little fiasco in the middle of the night sounded like my cats had been stopped up partially, causing the car to stall, cause it couldnt breathe, in turn making it seem like it was starving for fuel, and that was the incedent that just so happened to burnt out the middle of them for good, making the problem never resurface itself in that manner, but now the exhaust is just pumping a few more fumes out of the car than what was meant, causing the o2 sensors to scream at you because there is too many fumes, or the fumes arent emmitting evenly throughout the system. The mechanic told me i could spend the money on new cats, which are a pretty penny, or i could just keep driving it until a
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