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Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel Questions

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  • red777red777 Member Posts: 22
    Try leaving the truck in park and use a screwdriver to jump the starter post. Should let you know if it's a starter or relay. I personally have had the post fall out of reman starters on my truck. Good luck.
  • lovehate2lovehate2 Member Posts: 4
    Hey Yogi,
    Most likely problem is that a large power cable has a bad connection. You said that all worked right up to that moment, odds are more likely that it is a simple problem not major ie, starter etc. "KEEP IT SIMPLE" should always be your first investigative step. Make sure that the power is actualy getting to the starter/relay. Even if the cable connection looks good take it apart and clean it first, then move on to the next item in line to your problem.
    love hate
  • rickyracer1rickyracer1 Member Posts: 1
    Pulling out on a highway a couple of months ago tach went way up to 4500+ slammed back down and up again, truck running fine. It keeps going all over the place, truck running fine. Even had the truck at the dealer to get keys made, and they fried the computer which they replaced along with 3 new keys and a new right mirror, that poor service guy, and they didn't even know my name. Anyway the only complaint I ever had with the truck was the doom light would not stay on from day 1 you know showing it off and all, He even mentioned there was something about the light staying on. Well now the light works the truck still runs fine, but the tach is wierd today driving 70 mph tach around 4500 to 4700 again truck run great. My concerns are will is send wrong info to computer ? Is the tach just a visual thing thats just presenting info received ? Where does it get its info from ? And how can I fix it or does it even matter ?
  • longlivecowboylonglivecowboy Member Posts: 1
    im new to the diesal game and have a2001 dodge with a 24 valve cummins turbo and somtimes my turbo cuts out when im pulling or going up hills and when i first start it and take of its fine then i lose my boost pressure but my fuel pressure stays the same if i let off for a second or two it kicks in again thanks for listening andthanks for any help
  • yogibear00yogibear00 Member Posts: 2
    97 ram 12 valve 4x4. Recently have been experiencing hard starts with this truck. 319,000 miles never had problem like this before. Sometimes have to cycle starting procedure many times and pumping accelerator pedal like crazy before the engine will fire and run. It's almost like the fuel system is leaking down and has to re-prime the system before it fires. the truck always fires after multiple starting cycles though. Sometimes i go to start it and it fires right up normal. Any thoughts would be appreciated, i was thinking maybe the lift pump was going? Thanx in advance!
  • oly2oly2 Member Posts: 10
    edited September 2011
    I had the same problem on my 96.I had the FUEL SHUTDOWN SOLENOID RELAY REPLACED WORKS FINE NOW. I only had 195000 on mine.
  • cumminsraycumminsray Member Posts: 1
    If it has excessive white smoke after hard starting, I would be suspicious of the intake heater not coming on long enough. This could be a relay, or a other solid state device. Your model was standard with a Mechanical Lift Pump on the engine, and if you are either loosing prime, or the pump is weak, this could also contribute to a low supply pressure to the injection pump.
    You say "Sometimes have to cycle starting procedure many times and pumping accelerator pedal like crazy before the engine will fire and run." Pumping the accelerator pedal will have no effect on fuel delivery, as there is no "Accelerator Pump" in this fuel system. holding the petal to the floor should be just as effective, if not better.
  • tominhaititominhaiti Member Posts: 2
    FUEL LIFT PUMP RELAY DRIVER CIRCUIT
    by tominhaiti
    Nov 01, 2011 (9:31 am)

    Had a 2005 Cummins shipped to me in Haiti. When we finally got it out of customs it would not start. Ran fine stateside. I'm not a mechanic but want to try and steer the Haitian mechanics in the right direction (and keep them from tearing the engine apart as they wanted to do). Truck was drained in Miami of fuel.

    The fuel pump relay is not getting power. A mechanic stateside sent me a six page diagnostic test that I don't understand. Where's the FUEL LIFT PUMP RELAY DRIVER CIRCUIT? Fuel pump works.

    Other problems - dash gauges do not work, and ABS pump runs all the time so we removed that fuse for now. Could it all be related?

    Sure do appreciate any help. Our old truck hit a horse a few days ago and is totaled. Driver OK. Horse not so. Without transportation.

    Tom
  • tominhaititominhaiti Member Posts: 2
  • lovehate2lovehate2 Member Posts: 4
    sounds like you have an injector or two that is leaking down, slow cranking (by bat) will make it not start. i f it starts when jumped ( man tranz) and not when cranked by bat. then that sounds like the issue, I would check that out.
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    edited December 2011
    Hi folks,

    I just received Rock Auto's monthly newsletter; and it contains a note about a Dodge Ram diesel club; which is intended as a help aid for Cummins diesel owners. Just thought you might like to know about it:

    (www.Mopar1973Man.Com) is a web site where Dodge Ram Truck owners with Cummins Turbo Diesels come to learn more about their trucks. We talk about a different type of performance, milestones and MPG. We have members with over 500K miles and one that has 1 million miles. The site has many write-ups, articles, and a lot of other “self-help” videos that take you through your most common repairs & diagnostics on your truck. Some of the videos are done by myself and then expanded on by the members as they share their experiences.

    If you’ve got a diesel, want help with a problem, or are looking for other diesel fanatics to connect with – visit (www.Mopar1973Man.Com) – we welcome you to the garage!
  • my6rattlesmy6rattles Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 ram with 5.9 Cummins that just turned over 100000 miles and suddenly my oil pressure gauge stopped working. Truck mstill runs fine and at $200 I don't want to replace sender if that's not the problem. Can anyone help with this problem. Thanks
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    edited December 2011
    The oil pressure sender contains a resistance element which varies its resistance according to the oil pressure it senses. There are specifications about the sensor resistance at different oil pressure levels. If you get these specifications; and then use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance across the pins of the sensor when the motor is stopped and when the motor is running; you'll be able to determine whether the sensor is defective or not. I expect you can get the specs at the website mentioned in the preceding post #836. Alternately, you can go to https://www.eautorepair.net/ and sign up for a one week unlimited online subscription to Mitchell Manuals entire professional grade database of information for your year and model truck; for $11.99. This is the most complete and accurate database in the industry; and is full of wiring diagrams, specifications, diagnostic and repair instructions. The price is an absolute steal for what you get. If it turns out that the problem is in the wiring harness or in the gauge; there will be all the details you need to test and repair it there. And if it turns out that this motor uses some newfangled type of sensor, instead of the traditional resistance element; there will be instructions about how to test it there, too.

    By the way. http://www.rockauto.com sells a new oil pressure sensor for this vehicle under Standard Motor Products part #PS407, for $158.79.
  • my6rattlesmy6rattles Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info, I think I'll try the Mitchell Manual site first, these are the best books around, used them a lot when I was turning wrenches.
  • chrisb120chrisb120 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 with the 5.9 Liter diesel. Today my check engine light came on and the throttle seems to be sticking when I let off the gas. Instead of the truck idling down it continues to pull through almost as if the cruise control is set. It also is running rough when I accelerate almost like its not getting enough fuel. Do I have a sensor going out or a bad fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter? Any help would be appreciated. I've never had any problems until now but I did just have the crank case seal replaced the other day. Thank you I'm the furthest thing from a mechanic
  • rocky2000dodgerocky2000dodge Member Posts: 2
    I Have A 2000 Dodge 2500 Cummins Diesel 6.5 liter 24 valve truck just stalled out on me i have purged all the lines fuel filter and made sure i was getting fuel to my injectors I also Replace the fuel filter but the truck rolls over but still will not start tried the self diagnostics and i am only coming up with the code P1693 Which i know means more codes exists but no other codes are coming up. ANY Idea's of what Could Be wrong?
  • karihkarih Member Posts: 3
    have replaced thermostat twice new radiator ,new water pump , new fan clutch , no signs of bad head gasket , still over heats in any gear at around 70 mph or higher and under a load .
    cools down quickly as soon as you let off fuel
  • oly2oly2 Member Posts: 10
    Could be a bad temp. gage
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    Did you use a 50-50 mixture of coolant and distilled water in the cooling system; or did you use pure coolant? Coolant is designed to be diluted with 30 to 70% water (preferably distilled water) before being used in an engine. Pure coolant, or more than 70% coolant, will make the engine overheat.

    Did you recheck the coolant level by removing the radiator cap and looking in the radiator, after running the truck following the parts replacement? There usually is a significant amount of trapped air left in the system after it is worked on. This air will initially prevent the radiator from being filled completely. The air will work out of the system in a day or two; so the radiator must then be refilled to replace the volume of air that came out. If the radiator is not refilled; the motor will run hot under loads.

    How did you determine that the head gasket is not leaking? If the coolant level keeps going down; and no external leak is visible; it probably is being pulled into the combustion chambers through the head gasket.

    There are 2 different thermostat temperatures available for this model. The stock thermostat is 190 degrees. There is an alternate 180 degree thermostat which is also available. Changing to the cooler thermostat can help this problem.

    If your engine has been modified, and you are pulling heavy loads at high speeds; it may be necessary to use a radiator with a heavier core than standard. Radiator shops can make up a radiator with a heavier core; and aftermarket suppliers may also offer them.

    If the radiator cap has a damaged seal, or the cap's pressure spring is weak or the cap is the wrong pressure rating (should be 16psi); it will cause overheating under loads.

    If this vehicle originally had a fan shroud around the radiator fan; and that shroud was removed; it would cause overheating.

    If the fuel filter is restricted, or the electric fuel lift pump is defective; or the injection timing is set wrong; this will cause overheating under loads.

    If your engine has been modified for more power or more economy; the injection timing and fuel delivery rate should be recalibrated to match the modifications. This can be done by a shop that specializes in diesel fuel injection service on big rigs.
  • drgroovedrgroove Member Posts: 1
    I have a Dodge Ram 2004 Diesel and it has factory installed cruise control buttons on the steering wheel. My question is that can I add the mechanism on the engine to work with these buttons? I find after market cruise controls for 2005 onward, but I don't find anything for 2004's.

    Can anyone point me in the right direction on this? thanks.
  • toyhauler2toyhauler2 Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2012
    I own a 2007 Dodge 3500 cummins diesel truck, 62000 mi. The truck is at the dealership for 3 weeks and even the STAR team does not know how to fix it. The code is P2A01. This is visit # 5 for the same issue. The last four visits at the dealership replaced the sensors, catalytic converter... I am so glad is still warranty. Not sure if I need go seek lawyer advice or continue to wait for some resolution from Chrysler. The warranty is expiring in July 2012?
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Doing a little research on that code, I found this from an owner of a 2007:

    The code relates to left side front and back temp sensors. The code tripped because the temp sensors showed more than 500F degrees difference between them.

    Take that to your dealer and see if that gets them in the right direction.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host
  • frankentruckfrankentruck Member Posts: 2
    I need to perform and overhead on my 2004 5.9 cummins (dodge). Can anyone hlep me with the spcs or where I can find them?
  • zaken1zaken1 Member Posts: 556
    Unfortunately; due to typos or spelling errors; I can't understand whether you're trying to do an OVERHAUL, or an OVERHEAD VALVE ADJUSTMENT, or rebuild the CYLINDER HEAD. Whatever you want; you can find complete specs on this truck at http://www.eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp where you can sign up for a 1 week, or 1 month, or 1 year subscription at great rates.
  • frankentruckfrankentruck Member Posts: 2
    Sorry, I am going to do an overhead valve adjustment and needed specs for that.
    Thanks
    for the info.
  • ironbainironbain Member Posts: 1
    i have the same exact truck and it's having the same exact problem. any luck with yours? did you fix it?
  • 2dollar2dollar Member Posts: 1
    What solved this problem? I have the same problem.
  • yogie2yogie2 Member Posts: 1
    Bully screwed up my truck.  I found banks much better. Safety. Was better 
  • jwindishjwindish Member Posts: 1
    Hey folks I have a 95 cummins I'm have trouble with the gridheter it's working but something is wrong it's drawing a lot of juice it actually melted the solenoid I changed that and it discharges when it first kicks on I let it run for a bit then shut it off and restart it and it's fine from then on out any help would great
  • pleaseteachmepleaseteachme Member Posts: 1
    Hello I have a 2001 5.9 24v 
    So I had bought a smarty programmer in high hopes to burn out at a break stand or in general. that fail so I looked into it and the person who had it before me put a shift kit in as well as a upgraded turbo with a quick spool and 100 hp injectors and a air dog 2 lift pup.still not being able to burn out I had bought a triple disk torque converter and I still have no luck. I don't know what else it could be an my desiel buddy is only familiar with stock problems. please help me lol I'm going crazy from not being able to reach this itch lol..
  • ramriderramrider Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 dodge ram 3500 with 166,700 miles on it..the problem is after the truck is up to temp and then is shut off and will start/turnover but not engage until after it sits two hours..We have replaced both batteries with new and it was fine for a couple weeks then the problem began again. Recently it had all new injectors remaned,new air and fuel filters,,then last night it did it again :( please help i am sick of getting stranded...lol
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