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The driving condition you describe puts a load on the engine while it is running at low rpm, and if spark is a bit weak, the tranny will sense the additional load on the engine and downshift, or unlock the converter.
Your first course of action would be to find out what the code is. When you have that, let the forum know and we will help you further.
Jim
I may replace the EGR valve someday if I get tired of seeing the SES light. . I can also install a gasket under the EGR valve assembly that has a fine mesh screen to keep the carbon particles from restricting the movement of the pentel in the EGR valve. You can make a screen out of a fine mesh coffee filter and epoxy it to the gasket. . TOMCO, Inc. offers screened EGR gaskets to help prevent the EGR carbon fouling problem.
Talk back at ya soon!
Skstn34
I got to the vacuum actuator and found that vacuum line is disconnected. Now i have a problem finding where is it coming from to the vacuum actuator.
Thanks again.
thanks
I recall having greased the ball joints in the past and that seemed to rid this symptom for a while.
Okay, it was the transmission GOING OUT, the dealership, or whomever, doctered up the tranny with motor oil !! I replaced the entire tranny.
My advice to any Blazer owner reading this, as soon as your Check Engine Light comes on, drop by an Auto Zone, they'll check the code for free. Mine couldn't take steep inclines on the interstate without triggering my light, plus the rpms jumped up and never would jump back down, until I shut the truck off and restarted.
I would have never known if I only used my truck locally, but towing a decent load, and blowing fluid out the back is a BIG sign something's up!
Hope this helps someone!
From the Blazer being in a stopped position and then I apply the accelerator to start moving, the Blazer acts like it is starting in second instead of first... What should I do? I have topped off the transmission fluid. What should I do next?
My Blazer's driver side door has started to sag. I have looked at the door hinge and it looks like the top hinge on the door has sprung it's spring and the metal bushing has broken in half and is not there within the hinge pin area. How easy is it to get one of these hinge pin replacements and put it in yourself? What do you use and how long should it take and what tools do you use?
Thanks fellas! Charley McGilicutty
Good luck
I checked levels on the stick and it always looked good. I finally had to try this as a last resort and it worked perfectly.
Hope that helps.
Just last night, it started making a very loud winding sound (like a loud drill) while driving in overdrive and then it would quite. Like it was engaging and then disengaging or something. When I got home, it had no reverse. I could drive forward but it would get up to 3000 rpms before shifting to 2nd.
Got it to a very well respected tranny shop. Had work on a Dodge done there before and they've been around here for 40+ years.
Seems I need to be aware that it could be an electronic/computer issue and not just a mechanical transmission issue? As someone said, anyone will probably want to rebuild a tranny with that many miles on it that has been pulling a trailer.
Should I take it to a dealer to better diagnose the electrical aspect of it? Seems most tranny shops are more "gear oriented" than electrical/computer oriented.
Great forum and posts. All very helpful.
Thanks,
Ryan
There is a small solenoid on the mechaical part of the key switch that prevents the key from being removed when not in the unlocked position. If it does not get power, it prevents the key from being removed in any position.
I've had the exact same problems you have and more, and all of them went away immediately when I replaced the electrical part of the key switch. The cable to the switch is captive on the switch unit, and connects to the harness at the lower end of the steering column.
You have to remove the lower part of the dash and the plastic housing from around the upper end of the steering column where the switch is. To remove the switch itself, you need s really small star screwdriver or a small flat-bladed screwdriver that will fit in the star-head screws and turn them.
.
The switch costs from $80 to $110 depending on where you get it.
Per the transmission shop - it's the Reverse Input Drum. He said the the GM 4L60E trannys are known for this. I actually didn't have a second gear at all, as well as a reverse, which is what the Reverse Input Drum controls if I understood him correctly.
$1700 rebuild - 12 month, 12,000 mile warranty.
All fluids look to be good shape as that was one of the first things verified.
So, if it's going to be a rebuild or a buy used option, I'm going to buy used too I think - 1200+ for a rebuild seems a bit steep (and my job isn't going to be there in two months...soooo).
So, I'll have to start calling around but have no idea which transmission I have in the beast. Can I tell by the vin, or do I have to get under and identify it somehow?
No, I do not work for, nor own the company. Just two old blazers that are constantly needing parts!
1. You can try and add a can of "Trans X". I get mine at WalMart for about $6.00
2. If option 1 does not work you may need to have the valve body and solenoids replaced. If you do this also replace the wire harness in the trans.
Before you do option #2 take it to a place like Auto Zone and have them read the codes for you. They do it for free. The codes they pull will tell you if it is the shift solenoids.
3. You will need to get the trans rebuilt or replaced.
Any suggestions?
When the engine is cold and I shift it in reverse the tranny engage for a second or two then the engine would torque 'till its bangs the mounts then stall.
when warm the tranny would shift in reverse with no problems and trough any gears
when hot the tranny would shift only in first trough 3rd gear and when on neutral or park I can hear a clicking noise and would not shift in reverse at all
the trruck has 413 000km and the tranny was rebuilt at 375 000km the engine has been rebuilt also around the same km by the previous owner
any help would be really apreciated
now the tranny sift in gears but after a minute or two the tranny won't shift in any gears at all but sometime it shift in and get out of gear after 20-25 seconds
Any and all help appreciated.
Can any one help me? does someone has an idea of what can be causing that and how to fix it? :confuse: