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Chevrolet Blazer GMC Jimmy Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • jmccannjmccann Member Posts: 11
    Your transmission is kicking down probably out of lock up in the converter, that's why the rpm's go up, it should return to lockup after the hill has been crested. I don't know why your check engine light is coming on, you should get a scanner to check the codes if you want to know why the light came on. It comes on when a code is set in the ECM.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Several franchise auto parts stores will read the codes for you. With the miles you indicate, this could be a number of problems, some rather simple. Bad plug wires, rotor, distributor cap, plugs, any of which could cause weak spark and allow the engine to misfire, setting the code.

    The driving condition you describe puts a load on the engine while it is running at low rpm, and if spark is a bit weak, the tranny will sense the additional load on the engine and downshift, or unlock the converter.

    Your first course of action would be to find out what the code is. When you have that, let the forum know and we will help you further.

    Jim
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    The first thing I would replace is the EGR valve. I have the same problem with my '91 S10 Blazer 4x4. Carbon build up in the EGR valve is a common problem with high milage engines. It does not seem to hurt the performance of the engine in ay way. If my SES light comes on after a few miles at 70 MPH, I pull over at the first opportunity and turn off the engine for 10 seconds and the SES light is gone. Otherwise, I just ignore the SES light until I reach my destination.

    I may replace the EGR valve someday if I get tired of seeing the SES light. . I can also install a gasket under the EGR valve assembly that has a fine mesh screen to keep the carbon particles from restricting the movement of the pentel in the EGR valve. You can make a screen out of a fine mesh coffee filter and epoxy it to the gasket. . TOMCO, Inc. offers screened EGR gaskets to help prevent the EGR carbon fouling problem.
  • skstn34skstn34 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Y'all, I will definately look into those possible issues, and get back with the forum! Let's hope it's something simple, and can help other Blazer owners too!

    Talk back at ya soon!

    Skstn34
  • nicksarnicksar Member Posts: 2
    Hi, thanks for an answer.
    I got to the vacuum actuator and found that vacuum line is disconnected. Now i have a problem finding where is it coming from to the vacuum actuator.
    Thanks again.
  • jmccannjmccann Member Posts: 11
    Did you hook it up to see if it works?
  • masterfixalotmasterfixalot Member Posts: 1
    I've read just about most of the post this evening, and have tried some of the answers. I bought a 97 blazer from my sister. My brother in law changed the fluid and filter prior to this problem, or so I'm told. I dropped the pan and replaced the filter and fluid on the chance he put the wrong fluid in it, and have did the Battery Disconnect trick, then took it for a spin for the first time. Fluid is at correct level, no drips or runs. I start out with it feeling like it's driving through syrup, like I'm giving it more gas than needed to go. It will shift from first to second, but when it feels like it's shifting from second to third, it's like I shifted into neutral. (side note; while the pan was off, I did some looking around. I pulled the clip from the 1st/4th solenoid, and a white looking plunger pushed the solenoid out of the hole it was in. I reinserted it and replaced the clip. Upon removing the clip from the 2nd/3rd solenoid, there was no plnger and I had to pull it out of the hole it was in manually. I reinserted it back in and replace that clip. I visually looked at, and physically felt each wire to make sure none of them were nicked or cut. I plan on calling a Mason Brother who is a Service Manager at a Chevy Dealer tomorrow or Monday, so IF I get any answers from him, I'll post them too...
  • blazerstudentblazerstudent Member Posts: 4
    Can some one tell me an easy way to tell if a 97 blazer transmission will fit my son's 1998, both trucks are 4x4. Thanks in advance.
  • xxirish63xxxxirish63xx Member Posts: 3
    Check for vacuum leaks! Just had the same problem in my 2000 blazer. Other than that it is probably the vacuum actuator.
  • amateur73amateur73 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 S-10 Blazer. Sometimes it will not start like it is not in Park. After many tries of wiggling the gear shift and such, then it will start and run fine. Anyone have any ideas about how to fix this.
  • heavnlycareheavnlycare Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    My Blazer shifts all the time. It shift wrong it will shift up instead of down and visa versa. Also the blinker sound (not the light) blinks when Im not pushing the break. Would all that me connected to the main computer or wires or all seperate problems. PLEASE HELP i'm sick and tired of haveing issues with this truck
  • slickfitzslickfitz Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Blazer and for the most part it runs strong. I have 132,000 miles on it. I had a problem with the transmission shifting very hard out of 1st gear after I would drive for about a half hour, or when ever the check engine light would come on. This problem occurred with in weeks after buying the vehicle. I drove it this way for about a year and a half. I changed the transmission and with in 10 minutes of putting the new transmission in, I was already experiencing the same problem. My mechanic says its a bad transmission. Could this be an electrical problem? My ignition switch has a tendency to stick and sometimes and probably should be replaced, I cant get the key out of the ignition for weeks. Could this have anything to do with the transmission problem??
  • jason_halljason_hall Member Posts: 2
    I'm having the same problem a few of you have discussed here. I have a 96 Blazer 4wd and when I got it at auction and drove it home it shifted OK albeit a little hard from 1st to 2nd. When the vehicle reached operating temperature though, the check engine light came on and it wouldn't downshift to first or shift into overdrive. It would start out in 3rd unless I manually downshifted, and even then it would only downshift to 2nd. I un-hooked the battery for 15 min or so, hooked it back up and the problem went away a few minutes only to trip the check engine light again, and shift goofy again. I have seen replies of "change the fluid and filter" a lot and have yet to do it. I guess what I'm asking is if anyone that has had this exact problem (I've read several instances of it here) changed the fluid and it fix the problem? I know its one of those things to narrow it down, but I want to know if changing the fluid with this particular problem has ever fixed it instead of only ruling it out as a possible cause. So.. that said, what should I do, I am mechanically inclined, I was a certified mechanic at one time (not in transmissions though) and have a few tools. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!
  • gkitegkite Member Posts: 11
    I have a 96 GMC jimmy, which had the same problem. A friend of mine which worked at a chevrolet dealer did some research and and said that we needed tio replace the wire harness going to transmision. We did and I have not had a problem with it going on 5 years now. the wire harness develops some kind of voltage drop and keeps it from down shifting
  • jason_halljason_hall Member Posts: 2
    Was your problem exactly like mine? I want to be sure before I take drastic steps in what could be the wrong direction. I only ask because others have stated they have the EXACT same problem I do.. I just want to be certain.
  • gkitegkite Member Posts: 11
    I'm pretty sure it is. My check engine light came on and when ever i came to a stop and restated it would start out in like second or third gear, would not down shift to first. also there was no passing gear. At that time i took it in and had the transmission rebuilt. on the way home from picking it up it did the same thing .check engine light back on and no first gear. $1200.00 dollars down the drain. All I can say is when we replaced the wire harnes and pigtail going to transmision my problem went away and has not been back since.
  • tonyb6tonyb6 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 jimmy , I can put it in drive or overdrive and try to pull out but it is a real strain on it , but if I Put it down in 1st or 2nd and pull out it does fine , then I can put it in drive, then it wont shift in overdrive , I changed the shift silniod but it didnt work , someone help ! Thanks !
  • memebearmemebear Member Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    My Blazer won't shift out of 2nd and acts like it's in neutral when it hits 25mph. Has reverse and the fluid, filter and pan was all just changed and clean. Was running fine till a few days ago. Can someone please help me. I love my truck and don't want to get rid of it. :(
  • cmed06cmed06 Member Posts: 1
    Bought my jimmy 6 years ago from orignial buyer. Good shape, well cared for. Few issues - alternator, a/c. For last year it's had several engine codes dealing with transmission. Taken it to 2 different tranny shops and neither could figure out problem. All codes hint at electrical problems. Could this be a computer issue? Any help would be appreciated.
  • boygoneboygone Member Posts: 1
    When i start my jimmy after it has been sitting for a couple hours it delays when i put it in drive or reverse, can anyone help, what could this be?

    thanks
  • ziggysandersonziggysanderson Member Posts: 4
    Hi ddeal.... I have recently ran into the same issue you described in the above post a few years back. Did you ever figure out what was causing that issue?
    I recall having greased the ball joints in the past and that seemed to rid this symptom for a while.
  • skstn34skstn34 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for reminding me to post!!

    Okay, it was the transmission GOING OUT, the dealership, or whomever, doctered up the tranny with motor oil !! I replaced the entire tranny.

    My advice to any Blazer owner reading this, as soon as your Check Engine Light comes on, drop by an Auto Zone, they'll check the code for free. Mine couldn't take steep inclines on the interstate without triggering my light, plus the rpms jumped up and never would jump back down, until I shut the truck off and restarted.

    I would have never known if I only used my truck locally, but towing a decent load, and blowing fluid out the back is a BIG sign something's up!

    Hope this helps someone!
  • carkeycarkey Member Posts: 2
    My Blazer has just started to have some problems with the transmission not wanting to go back into neutral and start in first gear. When I slow down into a stopped position, and then get ready to apply the accelerator, the Blazer seems to be in second instead of first gear from a complete stopped position. I have topped off the transmission fluid. What do you think could be the problem?

    From the Blazer being in a stopped position and then I apply the accelerator to start moving, the Blazer acts like it is starting in second instead of first... What should I do? I have topped off the transmission fluid. What should I do next?
  • carkeycarkey Member Posts: 2
    Hey there fellas,

    My Blazer's driver side door has started to sag. I have looked at the door hinge and it looks like the top hinge on the door has sprung it's spring and the metal bushing has broken in half and is not there within the hinge pin area. How easy is it to get one of these hinge pin replacements and put it in yourself? What do you use and how long should it take and what tools do you use?

    Thanks fellas! Charley McGilicutty
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    This is a very common failure in the S10 series. The pin and bushing sets are available at most autoparts stores. One tool you might want to buy/borrow is the door spring compression tool. It makes the job much easier and safer.

    Good luck
  • craigmc74craigmc74 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 2000 Jimmy. What was the resolution to your problem? I've got less than 50,000 miles on a $2500 tranny rebuild and I'm debating whether or not to get rid of this truck. If I can fix it myself with a replacement part like a relay, sensor or solenoid, no problem. If not, I'll start fresh with a new truck (I'll pull the motor, of course, because it is badass).
  • CaptnTonyCaptnTony Member Posts: 3
    @craigmc74: My surging was fixed by doing a transmission flush with new filter and refill. Mine happened at about 1200 -1220 rpm if I recall correctly (might have been hiway speed so 1500-1520, it's been that long w/o it happening :) ). What ever it was, it could be reproduced and it happened to be right at the rpm for the truck (2002 blazer) going 30mph - the local speed limit, so it constantly happened to me.

    I checked levels on the stick and it always looked good. I finally had to try this as a last resort and it worked perfectly.

    Hope that helps.
  • ramdodge1ramdodge1 Member Posts: 3
    Sorry, I wish I could help you out, I got rid of my Jimmy and baught a new car...good luck!
  • alj3jalj3j Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 4 X 4 jimmy 4.3 auto. 125k with 30k scince trans rebuild. Shifts fine and no slip in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. When overdrive kicks in, will chatter under a little accelration. Almost seems like low on fluid ( it's not) as it pulls good for 2 seconds, then chatters (tach goes up 2-3k) for 2 sec. then pulls good for 2 sec, etc. Any help/ideas? Thanx, Al
  • rideusrideus Member Posts: 4
    Truck as 115,000 and has pulled a 5x8 trailer with band equipment for the past 6 years on weekends only. Seemed like it was shifting hard from 1st to 2nd but thought it was in my head.

    Just last night, it started making a very loud winding sound (like a loud drill) while driving in overdrive and then it would quite. Like it was engaging and then disengaging or something. When I got home, it had no reverse. I could drive forward but it would get up to 3000 rpms before shifting to 2nd.

    Got it to a very well respected tranny shop. Had work on a Dodge done there before and they've been around here for 40+ years.

    Seems I need to be aware that it could be an electronic/computer issue and not just a mechanical transmission issue? As someone said, anyone will probably want to rebuild a tranny with that many miles on it that has been pulling a trailer.

    Should I take it to a dealer to better diagnose the electrical aspect of it? Seems most tranny shops are more "gear oriented" than electrical/computer oriented.

    Great forum and posts. All very helpful.

    Thanks,
    Ryan
  • dgcallerdgcaller Member Posts: 7
    edited June 2010
    The problem is caused by worn contacts in the electrical part of the key switch. There are several contacts in it and one of them provides power to the transmission, which has several electronic controls and also solenoids on the valve body. The transmission does really strange things when the power is intermittent or not there, including not going into 1st and 3rd gear, shifting really hard, and more.

    There is a small solenoid on the mechaical part of the key switch that prevents the key from being removed when not in the unlocked position. If it does not get power, it prevents the key from being removed in any position.

    I've had the exact same problems you have and more, and all of them went away immediately when I replaced the electrical part of the key switch. The cable to the switch is captive on the switch unit, and connects to the harness at the lower end of the steering column.

    You have to remove the lower part of the dash and the plastic housing from around the upper end of the steering column where the switch is. To remove the switch itself, you need s really small star screwdriver or a small flat-bladed screwdriver that will fit in the star-head screws and turn them.
    .
    The switch costs from $80 to $110 depending on where you get it.
  • rideusrideus Member Posts: 4
    UPDATE:

    Per the transmission shop - it's the Reverse Input Drum. He said the the GM 4L60E trannys are known for this. I actually didn't have a second gear at all, as well as a reverse, which is what the Reverse Input Drum controls if I understood him correctly.

    $1700 rebuild - 12 month, 12,000 mile warranty.
  • 2manytoyz2manytoyz Member Posts: 7
    Yep, the tranny was bad, I replaced it with a good used one for less than $300 total out of pocket expense. It's hard to justify spending $1,700 on a rebuilt, for a car thats over a decade old, and could be purchased in running condition for $1,700.
  • thatazguythatazguy Member Posts: 9
    When dealing with these electrical issues, try dielectric gel on all the connections. It is diagnostic at worst, temp fix at best. I just reapply every 6 months or so. It is that or buy new harness from the firewall block to the 'puter. Any voltage loss could just be bad connections due to corrosion. PB Blaster supposedly helps remove the corrosion. I would gel 1st. This is on top of the basic - change filter and fluid.
  • daniel_howeydaniel_howey Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 Blazer won't shift into reverse. The night before this started, it gave me problems shifting out of first gear. I had to ease off the gas pedel for it to shift out of first. The next morning, I tried backing out of my driveway and it won't engage into reverse. It will go forward, but I only have enough room to go a foot or so to know it will at least go. I've heard that there is a modulator on the side of the transmission. Could this be the problem or is the trans shot?
  • CaptnTonyCaptnTony Member Posts: 3
    Just had my reverse go out today, like others. It's also not shifting correctly and has the drill sound when I try to put it in reverse (and a bit when it was going into drive).

    All fluids look to be good shape as that was one of the first things verified.

    So, if it's going to be a rebuild or a buy used option, I'm going to buy used too I think - 1200+ for a rebuild seems a bit steep (and my job isn't going to be there in two months...soooo).

    So, I'll have to start calling around but have no idea which transmission I have in the beast. Can I tell by the vin, or do I have to get under and identify it somehow?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    try "s10warehouse" on ebay. I have had good luck with them in the past.

    No, I do not work for, nor own the company. Just two old blazers that are constantly needing parts!
  • lordsinlordsin Member Posts: 1
    it works but the transmission is missed up i have to but in 2nd gear or 1st then drive then keep changing it until it kicks in then it will go 30 or 40 tell me do i have to buy a new transmission or can i fix it tell me what i should do :)
  • pocitypocity Member Posts: 7
    I have 3 possible remedies for you.
    1. You can try and add a can of "Trans X". I get mine at WalMart for about $6.00
    2. If option 1 does not work you may need to have the valve body and solenoids replaced. If you do this also replace the wire harness in the trans.
    Before you do option #2 take it to a place like Auto Zone and have them read the codes for you. They do it for free. The codes they pull will tell you if it is the shift solenoids.
    3. You will need to get the trans rebuilt or replaced.
  • toddmbtoddmb Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy that wont shift out of first or second gear and the speedometer quit working as well. When the speedometer works it will shift into all gears fine.

    Any suggestions?
  • pocitypocity Member Posts: 7
    It sounds to me like you have a speed sensor problem. The ECM need the speed sensor input to tell the tranny to shift since it is electronic. It might be as simple as a loose wire. Get your mechanic to check the sensor and wiring for you speedometer.
  • killerbeachboykillerbeachboy Member Posts: 3
    Hi, my brother in law just gave me his blazer that have a funny problem:

    When the engine is cold and I shift it in reverse the tranny engage for a second or two then the engine would torque 'till its bangs the mounts then stall.

    when warm the tranny would shift in reverse with no problems and trough any gears

    when hot the tranny would shift only in first trough 3rd gear and when on neutral or park I can hear a clicking noise and would not shift in reverse at all

    the trruck has 413 000km and the tranny was rebuilt at 375 000km the engine has been rebuilt also around the same km by the previous owner

    any help would be really apreciated
  • killerbeachboykillerbeachboy Member Posts: 3
    update

    now the tranny sift in gears but after a minute or two the tranny won't shift in any gears at all but sometime it shift in and get out of gear after 20-25 seconds
  • killerbeachboykillerbeachboy Member Posts: 3
    update the shift solenoids are all busted and they're pricey so I'll go in a junk yard near my place and will disassemble a couple of tranny's to get some spare solenoids to fix it
  • lawlessriderlawlessrider Member Posts: 2
    I've been having issues with the transmission in my 4 door blazer since I bought it 2 years ago. At first it was shifting hard from 1st to 2nd, that seems to have stopped but now it slips out of gear and wont back up until the engine is warm. I dont want to fix the problem, I just want to know if theres a way to put a 5 speed manual in it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
  • ozvolozvol Member Posts: 2
  • ozvolozvol Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Chevy Blazer ZR1 4wd that will not shift into passing gear. When the trans tries to shift the RPMs shoot up and it is like being placed in neutral. Once the speed drops to app 40 mph it is in gear and then the problem starts over again.

    Any and all help appreciated.
  • 98sl298sl2 Member Posts: 2
    I looked on here and cannot find the same problem that im having.my 96 blazer auto trans with od.when the transmission shifts through the gears its like it goes into nuetral for 2 seconds then goes into the next gear no problem.the same when i go to passing gear.its not slipping and i have changed the fluid and filter.the fluid was nice and red everytime i changed it so i dont think its a bad clutch plates.could it be the shift solenoids that are making this happen?
  • joecool92701joecool92701 Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem with my 99 4x4 blazer, if i have the shift in drive it shifts through first and second fine, but as soon as it goes to hit third its like it drops into neutral and revs like a sob. I am taking it to the shop hopefully this week but if you found out what the problem was please let me know thank you.
  • thetrejo19thetrejo19 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Blazer. It started to fail to return to the 1st shift after fully stop or low speed. I had to turn off the engine to get it back to 1st shift. I have repleced the four transmision solenoid and after 3 month it failed again to return to the 1st shift. I parked the car for 2 month and after that the problem was gone but it came back in month and a half later. I parked back for other month and it run fine and suddenly start the problem again. the transmission does not go back to the 1st shift when fully stopped. today it did it but it started to work good alone and then did it again and then problem gone alone.
    Can any one help me? does someone has an idea of what can be causing that and how to fix it? :confuse:
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