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Chevrolet Blazer GMC Jimmy Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • cplpun1cplpun1 Member Posts: 3
    there are a few things that could be wrong with your trans. it would be hard to "hip shoot" just from what you are describing. but a few questions come to mind. did you change the solenoids because of a trouble code or did you just replace them? what was the condition of the fluid the first time you dropped the pan? was there any material in the bottom of the pan? were to solenoids new or used? is your check engine light on? there are a few things that could cause a second gear start. it could be a stuck valve in the valve body, it could be caused by a t.p.s way out of whack [ telling the comp. that your throttle is open when its not] i would find a reputable trans shop instead of guessing on this one.
  • cplpun1cplpun1 Member Posts: 3
    sounds like your 3/4 clutches are fried. hate to say it . chances are when they drop the pan theyre going to find a bunch of clutch material in the bottom of the pan. the only fix for that is to pull it and rebuild it. i know it sounds harsh, consider whether its worth holding onto. if its in good shape otherwise i'd say fix it. you should expect to spend around $1800 for the rebuild, but you'll get a warranty with it. may or may not be better than buying another vehicle. hope all goes well.
  • cplpun1cplpun1 Member Posts: 3
    more trouble that its worth. you may or may not have to change the drive shafts because of length differences. then you will have to install a clutch pedal assembly under the dash which is a nightmare. then you will have to install the hydraulic master cylinder and line in the firewall. better to rebuild the one thats in it.
  • joesgaragejoesgarage Member Posts: 1
    I had all the same symptoms with the slow start and no first or fourth gear. The key wouldn't come out of the ignition so I knew when I read this I found my solution. This is my second one so taking it out was a breeze and orielly has a lifetime warranty, this time it was free. The first time the blazer would die while driving and stall out at lights. The last one lasted two years and since they pack so much control into one switch this model seems to chew them up. Thanks for the diagnosis, I fixed it on the first try!
  • hilljayhilljay Member Posts: 1
    how long is the trans dip stick in a 1998 chevy blazer 3.1 v6 4wd?
  • ssheepwashssheepwash Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 blazer i put a new motor in it when i got it running the trans would shift hard i plugged it into the computer because the check engine light was on it was the throttle position sensor changed it and the trans shifted properly as soon as that was done , hope this helps.
  • adqautoadqauto Member Posts: 1
    3.1 L in a 98? Do you really have a 60 degree 3.1L that looks like a short, small SBC 350? Because if you do, it must not be stock. That would make it difficult to answer your question.
  • lettau88lettau88 Member Posts: 1
    i had that problem got it fixed now 3 gear its wont catch and just wines out. everything else works awesome. is it the tranny or can it be fixed someone let me know thanks
  • 97chevyblazer97chevyblazer Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 97 chevy blazer, when i first got it the vehicle drove good, now i have a tranny problem, you have to put it into 1st gear to take off then it drives good, 2nd problem A/C and power windows stopped working, replaced all relays under hood and the three in the glove box. I don't know what to do anymore,
  • dh6dh6 Member Posts: 1
    check ignition switch
  • n8tiveonen8tiveone Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    when i start the car there is a clunking sound at a stand still when and if it moves it only goes max of 5-10mph i was wondering if it could b a bad touqe converter but am not a machanic
  • rongfrongf Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my transmission in my 1997 Chevie Blazer. Does anyone have an answer on how to solve this problem. I have had shift solenoids and valve body gasket replaced. Neither worked.

    Does anyone have an answer to how this can be fixed?
  • tony_7991tony_7991 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 97 Chevy Blazer that has ran pretty good for the most part. The transmission has been fault free since I've owned it. The other day, I was in cruise control at 75 mph, and just like someone flipped a switch, there was no 3rd or 4th gear. Also the speedo crashed to 0 as soon as it happened. After I got pulled off the road, I ran it through the gears. It engaged perfectly into 1st and reverse. It didn't want to shift into 2nd very well, and 3rd and overdrive were not an option. After a few hours of sitting, I decided to try it again on a cool motor and transmission. Sure enough, everything worked like normal. Transmission fluid was fine (didn't smell burnt and levels were good). Could this be some kind of solenoid issue? Cost?
  • rd2769rd2769 Member Posts: 5
    The vehicle shifts through the gears normally, but will not shift into the higher gears. Does not shift into the passing gear when you give it gas. It also acts like it is restricted. What could be the problem(s)?
  • dgcallerdgcaller Member Posts: 7
    The problem is not likely in the transmission but in the key switch, even if you get DTCs that indicate the solenoids. The transmission is electronically controlled. If the voltages to the solenoids are low or power is interrupted, the transmission exhibits all kinds of shift problems. The power to the solenoids is routed through the key switch, which has 6 contacts in it. If the contacts are dirty or worn, the voltage to the tranny is low and the solenoids do not work. My trans had some similar symptoms and when I replaced the key switch, they all went away instantly.
  • rd2769rd2769 Member Posts: 5
    This key switch that you are talking about where is it located at on the vehicle?
  • dgcallerdgcaller Member Posts: 7
    The electric part of the key switch is a black plastic box about 1 x 1 x 1-1/2 inches and is lkocated in the steering column right behind the mechanical part of the key switch (where you put the key in). There is a multi-wire harness attached to the box that goes down the steering column and plugs into a connector at the bottom end of the steering column.

    To replace the switch, you have to remove the lower part of the dashboard so you can get at the plug, and remove the plastic covers around the key switch. You need a really small star (not phillips) screwdriver to unscrew the screws that hold the switch in place. The plug on the harness has two screws that hold it into the connector. You have to unscrew them to unplug the plug.

    The switch and harness cost from $108 to $130 depending on where you get it. If you get it from an auto parts store it's less expensive but they may have to order it. A chevy ddealer will have it but they charge more

    Let me know if you have any questions.
    Diane
  • tony_7991tony_7991 Member Posts: 5
    Could the problem with the key switch also cause other problems with sensors, anti-lock brakes, etc? And also, is "key switch" the technical name for the part? I couldn't find a result for it on NAPA's website.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    The ignition switch and harness assembly is part number GM- 26061329 or AC Delco D1498C . It is available at any Chevrolet dealership (probably a special order) or any auto parts retailer that sells a complete line of AC Delco parts. It costs $183.70 MSRP with a jobber price of $90.00 to $98.00
  • dgcallerdgcaller Member Posts: 7
    edited September 2011
    Answering two messages at once.

    1. Re the ignition switch causing other problems: Yes, probably. The center of a switch is a rotating plastic cam that opens and closes the six contacts in varioius combinations, depending whether the switch is in Acc, Off, Run, or Start. The harness contains ten or twelve wires, connecting two sides of the 6 contacts to several places in the electrical system. Depending on which contacts are worn or burned, you can have a variety of problems, such as cranking but not starting, engine shutting off at random times (both caused by the ignition contact) transmission shifting problems, etc. These are problems I have seen.

    2, Regarding where the assembly can be purchased, in addition to a Chevy dealer, you can buy aftermarket versions of the switch from NAPA for about $130.00 or Karagen/O'Reilly for about $108.00. I don't know what the differences in quaility or durability are. Both NAPA and Kragen were special order (2 days).

    A couple of additional notes.
    1. Chevy sent out a notice to all it's dealers about 4 years ago, telling them that when customers reported transmission problems i this vehicle, to FIRST check the ignition switch. Most reported transmission problems were caused by the switch, not the transmission itself, even though the DTCs from the OBDII indicated failed solenoids in the valve body. There was nothing wrong with the solenoids. They simply were not getting power.

    2. I've had my blazer since 1997 (14 years). I first had the ignition switch problems about three years ago when the car was 11 years old. I replaced it with a NAPA unit and then took the GM switch apart to find out what was wrong with it. Two of the contacts were badly burned, two were dirty, and two seemed to have no wear at all. I assume that the burned contacts were the ignition and transmission, because that is where the problems were. I have the service manuals and could check the circuits but have not done that. Incidentally, the NAPA unit failed about 18 months after installation. Then I got a unit from Kragen. No problems with it since I installed it.

    Diane
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    After posting, you can edit your post for 30 minutes. :shades:
  • tony_7991tony_7991 Member Posts: 5
    Ok got the new ignition switch put in, but unfortunately after a few mile test drive, the transmission started acting up again. Same problems as they were originally. A little discouraged, but any other suggestions out there? Time for a newer vehicle maybe. haha
  • dgcallerdgcaller Member Posts: 7
    Sorry Tony, but I don't remember what the original problems were and I could not find your original messages in the past threads. Can you tell me again what the symptoms are?

    Check the electrical connector at the transmission. The plug is on the drivers side of the transmission. Claen the area around the plug, then pull it out and plug it in again. You did not mention if the SES (Service Engine Soon / check engine) light is on. If it is, you can take it to a shop and have them check the DTCs and turn off the light. It will cost about $100.
    I do this myself now with a laptop and a kit I bought that includes a connector that plugs into the OBDII connector on the car and a software app. Cost about $150, but has paid for itself several times over.
  • tony_7991tony_7991 Member Posts: 5
    edited September 2011
    Hey! The initial trouble started about 3 weeks ago. I was about 30 miles into a trip, and out of no where, I dropped D and OD and the speedo crashed to 0. 1st and 2nd still worked so I was able to limp it off the road. From P or N, it still shifted perfectly in to R or 1st. Transmission oil is full, and smells normal. After time to cool off, everything seems to work like normal. After replacing the ignition switch, I took it for a test drive, and problem came back. There actually was a check engine light on before, but after reconnecting the battery, it hasn't came back on...yet. I believe it was on before for an oxygen sensor.
  • anxiousone2001anxiousone2001 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, my name is t.j. I just have a quick question to ask you about swapping out your tranny. I'm getting ready to do the same thing to my 95 jimmy. but what I was wounding is can you tell me what tools I will need to remove the tranny and put in another one? If possible can you email me directly at [email protected] I'm using my sisters facebook and email to log on to edmunds. Thanks. I hope you can help me. I'm going to a salvage yard to get the other tranny so I need to know what tools I'll need to take that one out and also taking the old tranny out. then I need to know what tools I'll need to put the other tranny in. and do I need anything like a transmission lift. I don't know if thats even a tool? anyway. thanks in advance. T.J.
  • rd2769rd2769 Member Posts: 5
    In the process of removing the cylinder lock in a S-10 blazer, the steering wheel and cylinder lock lock up and will not turn in either direction. How do you unlock the steering wheel and cylinder lock to complete the removal of the cylinder lock?
  • dgcallerdgcaller Member Posts: 7
    It's been a while since I've done this. As recall, you have to remove a small solenoid that mounts underneath the key cylinder. I think you can also just pull the shaft in the center of the solenoid downward to unock the wheel instead of removing the solenoid. I'll check my service manuals and get back to you in a day or so.
  • rd2769rd2769 Member Posts: 5
    Thank you. Let me know.
  • emse82emse82 Member Posts: 1
    Hi! I recently purchased a 1996 Chevy Blazer 4 by 4. When driving, the "Check Engine" light comes on and I noticed my transmission slipping. My car has to reach a couple thousand to three thousand RPM's to finally start moving. Just by happenstance, my battery died on the car. When I jumped it, my check engine light was off and my car shifted and drove fine. After about 10 minutes of driving, the "Check Engine" light came backon and the transmission started slipping again. Thoughts? Thanks!!!
  • malibu71malibu71 Member Posts: 1
    To everyone having a problem with gm automatic trannies that must be manually shifted to low gear. The first place to look is the fuse panel. There is a 10 amp fuse marked trans. If this fuse is bad, the transmission will not return to low gear after coming to a full stop. It will start in second gear and acceleration will be very sluggish. Replace the fuse with a higher amperage fuse. The engine must be restarted for the transmission function to return to normal. If the fuse appears to be good, check the neutral safety switch mounted on the side of the transmission.
  • thetrejo19thetrejo19 Member Posts: 2
    Hi. if you changed your transmission solenoid valves (all af them) there are two steps for blazer transmissions not shifting.
    If your problem is only the transmission try replacing the TPS. it could be the problem
    but if your problem is the transmission not shifting properly and some other electrical problems like door locks coming in and out alone, key does not come out easy, ect., you must replace the ignition switch. It is a cable coming from the ignition key lock going all the way below the wheel.
    You have to remove top and bottom cover from wheel to access the screws that need to be remove for the replacement. I did it without remove the wheel but you must be carefull othewise you can break the top cover
    The ignition switch (cable) cost is between $50 to $100, depend wher you buy it. You will need a Thor male drives or thor screw driver small sizes.
    I hope you can solve the problem
    I did it on my 97 Blazer after having it for one full year stopped
  • kneecapkneecap Member Posts: 1
    Veh: 78 K5 Blazer 350 trans np203 transfer.

    Short Story: A transmission shop lost my np203 transfer case. They want to replace it with an np205 but I would have to buy an adapter. They say that every thing else will be the same. If I insist, they will find me a 203 transfer case.

    I am the one who will have to take all of this home, assemble it and put it back it the vehicle.

    I'm a shade tree mechanic but I don't know squat about drive trains. I also don't have the money for parts.

    Questions:

    What is involved in this swap in terms of adapters, linkage, drive shafts, etc?

    Am I better off with a part-time gear driven or a full time chain driven.

    Any advice or suggestions you can give me will be greatly appreciated.
  • georgetggeorgetg Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 Tahoe sitting that just had a transfer case change now it will not shift the AT out of 1st gear. I am getting 2 codes 1637 and 1638. OK what and were do I look. :confuse:
  • rd2769rd2769 Member Posts: 5
    While attempting to remove the cylinder lock, I barely moved the steering wheel and it locked. And the cylinder lock will not turn forward or backwards. What could be the problem? What is the solution to solving this problem?
  • drakmor2012drakmor2012 Member Posts: 1
    I am having similar troubles with my Blazer. I haven't done any work to it, but I was driving and it was like it jumped out of 3rd into 1st at about 60mph. I checked my fluid and it was fine, and have drove it a couple times since. Someone told me that it may be a sensor or solenoid that might have went out that controls the shifting in the tranny, is this possible?
  • greasymikegreasymike Member Posts: 1
    I was driving down the road about 50 mph. & suddenly the trans.acted like it was in neutral
    i coasted over to the side & i didn't have any gears at all, no foreward or reverse gears!
    I know it isnt the transfer case because when you put it to drive, you would hear noise from it,
    no unusual noises no matter which gear you put it in?
    Could this be the front pump going out, or possibly the torque converter,
    It was real strange, it went from fine to no gears at all just like that! thanks Would appreciate
    any input on this. Mike!
  • dgcallerdgcaller Member Posts: 7
    There are several input sensors that feed the computer, which controls a set of solenoids in the valve body. They are what actually do the shifting, along with the shift lever. All those solenoids require electricity, of course, and if the power gets interrupted by a bad contact in the key switch (where the power comes from) all sorts of weird things can happen. Having only 2nd and 4th gears, for example, or stuck in 4th when the shift lever is in Drive. But you can have bad solenoids too, especially the high pressure solenoid. There are some bugs in the original wiring harness in the valve body, and Chevy has a replacement harness that has two solenoids hard wired to it. But don't go replacing anything yet. Did the service engine soon light come on when you had this trouble? If so, take the car to a diagnostic place and have them check the DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes). They tell you exactly what it wrong. UM, well. most of the time. When my key switch went out, I got DTCs saying two of the solenoids were bad, but it turned out that they were just not getting power from the key switch.
    Hope this helps.
    Diane
  • tony_7991tony_7991 Member Posts: 5
    edited December 2011
    Sounds a bit like my trouble. Can you remember if your speedometer keeps working? In my case, it was the speedo sensor.
  • chevy1953chevy1953 Member Posts: 1
    i had problom shifting in 1 gear slipping and would not go in over drive i found problem on computer plugin .stand in front of blazer plug on left side on top let me now chevy1953
  • dieselrookie3dieselrookie3 Member Posts: 7
    My son has owned this truck for a year and has just started to experience a "banging" noise when shifting from 2wheel drive to 4x4 high. There is a pause after the button is pushed and then a very loud bang which is felt thru the truck before the front differential engages. What can be the cause and how to remedy, anyone???
  • rodantheblazerrodantheblazer Member Posts: 1
    I got the same car. I understand what your talking about when u say the "First Ten". My car has the same issue where it only shifts just right in those first mins at the first start of the day. Get someone to check your codes. Mine was my 3-2 Shift Solenoid. I went to AdvanceAuto and got the part for like 30 something. The Solenoid just melts out in these type of trans. Just gotta drop the pan and unplug then replace. Very simple if you dont mind getting a bit messy. Good luck fellow blazer
  • eric_kleineric_klein Member Posts: 1
    Hello: I am having the same problem. What kind of problem did you find on the connector? Was it dirty, corroded, broken, or something else?

    My problem is intermittent and if it starts messing up I turn off the engine ad then re-start and normally the problem goes away.

    Thanks
  • dieselrookie3dieselrookie3 Member Posts: 7
    Hi Eric,
    Are you experiencing the same 2 to 4wheel drive problems? If so, do you think it is an electrical(connection)problem? Need help to trouble shoot. thxs
  • brothers6317brothers6317 Member Posts: 1
    did you ever figure out what the problem was with your blaz??? mine is doing about the same thing....HELP PLZ.
  • ajw121ajw121 Member Posts: 2
  • chevyproblemschevyproblems Member Posts: 1
    SAME PROBLEM HERE! Yesterday my trany went on the highway, for about a month ive heard a whining loud noise ONLY when I accelerate. Friends thought it was the brakes, altho I had 2 brake lines rotted thru. My gas gage hasnt ever worked, too costly to repair. Had problems with it sticking in 4wd/2wd, hubby fixed that. Now it needs some kind of shield thats gonna cost me 250, but in order to pass inspection IT NEEDS TO RUN! I am in BIG trouble without my vehicle. It's a 97 blazer with approx 180k miles. My friend owns a 98 thats in MUCH better shape, hoping to buy hers and transfer her trany into mine, but I have to hear what the shop has to say first. I feel your pain Blazer drivers, CONSTANT HEADACHES, and BIG ones.
  • mtmtntopmtmtntop Member Posts: 1
    95 blazer 4x4 4.3; seal went out while my wife was driving, ran it dry, but it still shifted into 1 and 2nd. i bought a used trans, which was identical but now i have no gears at all. I have checked to make sure flex plate is on right, pulled a radiator cooling line to make sure front mount pump working. when i installed, i had to pull the converter back out about a quarter inch to bolt to flexplate. i have run it to check the fluid. all these things check out. i hear a whirring noise no matter what gear i have it in, but the vehicle does not move. any ideas?
  • jayarmbarjayarmbar Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2012
    First off I am new to the forum. I did spend a couple of hours searching for my problem. I found a few that were close and I tried some of the solutins that were posted.
    I have a 99 Blazer automatic with the auto 4wd, 4 buttons 4.3 vortec.

    Last night I was driving home and heard a loud squeal and felt like I lost power. The engine was still running it just didnt feel right. So I parked it and left it overnight.

    This morning I got in started and Reverse does not work at all. I can go forward in all four gears 1,2,3 and D. I checked the fluid both hot and cold and it is fine. I disconnected the battery and tried to find the trans. fuse as was suggested in another post. I couldn't find the trans fuse so I just checked the onesthat the owners manual said were engine, selenoid etc. Still no reverse.

    I looked for the plug and neutral button but couldnt find them. There is what appears to be a kevlar plate from the front bumper almost all the way back to the back 2 doors. It has some type of oily fluid all underneath it.

    I am not a mechanic and don't know a whole lot about newer cars. I am not in a huge rush but I would like to use my only car.

    Thank you all in advance.
  • jmccannjmccann Member Posts: 11
    I don't have any suggestions for you except to suggest you take it to a transmission shop to have it diagnosed and possibly repaired, I have had similar problems with my Blzer but I lost all forward gears but still had reverse, I tried to pull the transmission myself and I did get it out but I had no confidance in putting it back in after it was repaired so I had a local shop do it, the bill was over 3,000 dollars and in hindsight I should have put the money into a newer truck in the first place. The transmission went out three more times after the rebuild but it was repaired under waranty, the final fix was turning up the pump pressure for firmer shifts, I am still driving it.
  • w_hoeksemaw_hoeksema Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 blazer 4wd. Just had the transmission and transaxle rebuilt maybe 6 months ago. Here recently I have had issues first thing in the morning. To me it feels as if it's not catching gear right away, but once it warms up the problem seems to go away. Fluid level is where it needs to be. I have talked to a few mechanics, the only thing I have heard is possibly the shift solenoid. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?? Will be much appreciated.
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