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Kia Sedona Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

124

Comments

  • hkingtonhkington Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Sedona I had to replace the motor in May and now I have had to replace, Cam shaft sensor, Crank shaft sensor, Ig failure sensor, and it still is acting up. Sometimes it will start and sometimes it will not. I can go out and it will start fine and go somewhere and be in the store for 5 min and come out and it will not start, I’ll wait a few min. or and hour then it will start. I can go out in the morning and it will not start then try it a few hrs later and it will start. NOW it will not start at all. It will turn over but not start. :mad
    I am soooo over this... Can anyone help :mad:
  • gatottengatotten Member Posts: 8
    Sounds a lot like the fuel pump. They have a history of self destructing. The pressed metal fails and clogs the filter. The pump is in the tank. The early symptoms are - vehicle may start, run for a short time and stop or not start until sitting for a while. You may be able to drive at speeds less than 50 and nothing happens and then pull onto the interstate and it dies in a few miles. Let it sit and then it goes again and finally nothing - the pump is gone. These are the symptoms.

    You need to check for fuel delivery. You, or your mechanic should have changed the fuel pump when you changed the engine. If you didn't it would be my first suspect. You will need to check the fuses and then "listen" for the pump to run when you turn on the key (but don't engage the starter). You can disconnect the fuel line to see if you have pressure. Fuel pumps are typically good for about 60,000 miles but may last up to 120,000.
  • oechslioechsli Member Posts: 1
    MY FRIEND HAS A SEDONA THAT STALLS FROM TIME TO TIME. SHE'S HAD IT AT THE DIA SHOP NUMEROUS TIMES AND IT HAS STALLED ON HER AT LEAST TWICE ON THE WAY HOME FROM THE SHOP. ANYONE HAD SIMILAR PROBLEMS???
  • likellehlikelleh Member Posts: 35
    I agree it could be the fuel pump. The Sedona is known for it's fuel pump issues. I had the humming noise and the Kia fix did not take car of it under the recall so it was replaced under warranty.
  • jomad4jomad4 Member Posts: 1
    2005 KIA Sedona ignition switch will not turn. It is locked up. Can't turn the key.
  • alanzdbaalanzdba Member Posts: 3
    We have had this issue with our 2007 Hyundai Entourage. Its been in the shop 3 times. I've been told to pull the key out and turn it upside down and put it back in and try. I was told to try the spare key. I was told to be SURE that when you pull into a spot that your tires are straight and the steering wheel is not all the way to one side or the other. It has been looked at by Field Engineering and they couldn't figure it out either. BUT .... they would not replace the ignition/ignition lock. Not even under warranty.
  • likellehlikelleh Member Posts: 35
    I have had the problem of NOT being able to put the key in the ingnition. The lock would engage and would not let me insert the key. I had it into the dealer and until I got it to do it he didn't believe me. He had heard of not being able to turn the key. That is why there is that little oval push out piece on the shift base that you pop out to disengage the locking mechanism. The dealer was going to replace the ingnition core under warranty. The biggest culprit causing these problems are heavy key chains. My daughter had given me a heavy gold key chain from Quebec. I took it off and I have had no problem with it sense. Just the downward weight of the key chain caused the little level inside the ingnition barrel to drop and not allow me to put in the key....Its been fine for months now.
  • judy56judy56 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Kia Optima and have the same problem that the key switch is locked. I have had it towed in and of course it worked there. They say there is no problem. Have you found out the solution to the problem?
  • mattonemattone Member Posts: 5
    An update, it has been a year, and I have 45,000 miles on one of my Sedona's and 35,000 on the other and have not had any additional problems. knock on wood.
  • daveofphillydaveofphilly Member Posts: 6
    my situation is a little different than most. i've read many if not all on this forum relavent to the 2005 Kia Sedona stalling in traffic issue. some are stalling at high speed, some are stalling when slowing down, others are stalling and throwing a code. My problem started at approximately 100,000 miles.

    My 2005 Sedona LX (now, 109,000 miles) starts sputtering...ONLY... after it's warmed up, sitting in heavy traffic, and i'm accelerating from a stop or very slow speed. No Codes are thrown.

    I've gotten two suggestions on this (one part i had replaced yesterday...so we'll see). One suggestion from mechanic is that their call to California Kia (HQ?) gave them a suggestion from techs that a tech bulletin was issued on 'hot - stall,' and that the suggestion was the Throttle-body Position Sensor should be changed. Done. We'll see if it works.

    by thhe way, the second suggestion came from a UTI (Universal Technical Institute) Drivability Instructor who had previously worked at a Kia/Hundai dealer. He put a meter (flight data recorder..they sometimes call it), and found all the numbers very close to perfect, or at least in range....except...the long-term fuel trim, bank #2 was showing a very lean reading. He said that reading came from the O2 (oxygen) sensor. He looked at the O2 sensor for that bank and found it showing a lean reading as well. So, how to fix that??? He was going to look around a bit at some tech bulletins, etc. and get back with me. I'm not in contact with him, so haven't been able to follow up yet, but he didn't have a definite 'smoking gun' part that he suggested changing because of it. A lot of theories, nothing concrete.

    I chose to change the TPS and see what happens. If it works I'll post it here. If nothing, I'll only try a few other cheaper options until it gets bad enough to have 'had enough', then I'll get rid of it! We're a one-car family and can't have it down a lot because of this problem, but so far, it's been predictable. 1) hot weather, 2) traffic - hot engine 3) giving it fuel from low idle. I'll, actually, be looking to duplicate these three conditions before too long, when i get a free afternoon (in case i'm stuck on the side of the road for a couple of hours) to see if the TPS fixed it or if i get any of these symptoms again.

    We also had other major service done: timing belt (never changed yet), spark plugs (scheduled to change at 100,000), Injector flush. All totaled $1500.00 I invested it because, up until this sporadic problem that can only be duplicated in hot-heavy traffic, our Sedona has been near perfect! We have loved it...and would love to have this problem fixed. hope the TPS does it.

    Yes, i've read in the forum A LOT!!!!!....about rotors and brakes. I changed the pads and rotors on this thing 4 times in the first 80,000 miles. (this is the 'near' of the 'near perfect' rating that i mentioned before). However, no problems since then. why? because i replaced the rotors with slotted/drilled high performance rotors that i bought from a rotor company off of the internet and installed myself (it's easy) and the semi-metalic pads that were suggested by the rotor company. I stopped replacing with the thinner Kia rotor that has a tendency to warp when hot and stopped using the ceramic pads, which i notice Kia has stopped using as OE on their newer cars too (at least from what i was told by a parts person). The slotted rotors are a little more noisy, but they stay cooler and no more problems ! (in fairness to Kia, I also changed out both of the rear brake pistons ....forgot the name of the little thing.... because they were both showing slight leakage). This is wierd that they both went at the same time and i attribute it to the pressure having to be placed on the front bad brakes and rotors.

    All of that to say. The brakes are fine now, and the van has been a gem for us. We've owned bad cars and good cars. This has, for 100,000 miles been one of our better choices (price included).

    I'm not paid by kia, work for kia, and would prefer to buy a Honda van (or Toyota if they can get it together), but for the money, we haven't been disappointed with our Kia purchase. We feel we've gotten our money's worth out of it.

    By best suggestion is: give yourself plenty of margin in your schedule. It's a healtheir way to live anyway : )

    chat again later
  • topkitty27topkitty27 Member Posts: 1
    Most of the time when you cannot reinsert the key, it is because the key was removed before the lock was in the proper off position. This happens with keys that are extremely worn or have been improperly duplicated. Just insert the tip key and GENTLY turn counter-clockwise. Usually you will then be able to insert the key and it will function normally. It is also possible that the vehicle has a improperly generated cut combination from after market servicing or have the locks changed. These are pretty easy to spot because the tip of the key will be more narrow than the cuts that are closer to the head of the key. Similar to an arrow head. Just remember to NEVER use excessive force when the problem occurs as this could result in expensive repairs. A real, automotive locksmith can ordinarily repair and reconfigure the lock, to be less prone to malfunction. Unfortunately it is a recurring problem due to manufacturing tolerances that are in low end vehicles to reduce the cost. 25 years ago it was Datsun (Nissian today) that was the nightmare. I repaired many, many of these vehicles in the late 70's throughout 80's until ignition lock was redesigned. I spent 30+ years as a master locksmith and instructor and this would be my best guess. Good luck! Hope this helps!
  • daveofphillydaveofphilly Member Posts: 6
    edited May 2010
    So far so good....

    No more stalling after changing the TPS - Throttle Body Position Sensor (limited high heat situations so far, but seems to be working).
  • kskidkskid Member Posts: 2
    Yes! I have been having the same issue with my 02 Sedona. It's in the dealership for the 6th time in less then a month, of course they just called and told me they could not get it to stall for them. We've spent over $1,000 so far and it's still not fixed. We are very discouraged with Kia right now.
    Any advice?
  • kskidkskid Member Posts: 2
    Our 02 Sedona has been surging forward when coming to a stop and also stalling from time to time. It was in the dealership 4 times in 1 week in May and has been in 2 times this week. Of course the dealership cannot seem to get it to stall on them and claim the surging, which only started after the "fixed" it the 1st time, is normal and it's shifting into 1st.
    Has anyone else had these problems?
  • daveofphillydaveofphilly Member Posts: 6
    It 'seems' that we've hit on the solution, though none of the experts thought that what we did would have made any difference. Let me say that we had several things done at the same time, so we're not sure which it was that fixed it. I took it in for the following (we're at 110,000 miles on our '05 Sedona LX):

    Timing belt change (this was supposed to be done at 60,000)
    Spark Plugs changed (platnum: recommended at 100,000)
    fuel injection flush (trying to solve the bucking problem in traffic)
    Throttle Body Position Sensor - TPS (trying to solve the bucking problem in traffic)

    The TPS change was a 'bulletin' that had been posted by the California Kia Tech line as a "high heat, stalling' fix.

    We have been sitting in heavy traffic since this work was done. The engine has gotten hot (not by temp dial), and would have, before this work was done, stalled or started bucking during acceleration from a stop, and it has not done it any more since the work was completed. So, to date, the problem is fixed.

    It might have been a combination of the TPS, spark plugs, and injectors. Or it might have been any one of them (the timing belt wasn't likely the fix). However, Kia California would put their money on a faulty TPS. For what it's worth. let me know if this seems to fix it.

    David
    Philadelphia
  • jirkajirka Member Posts: 15
    Well, we have the problem again. Our 2007 Sedona worked for more than a year but today, the car suddenly switched to the limb mode again, engine does not respond to the gas panel, the ESC OFF light is illuminated. I needed to restart the car about 15 times to drive about 15 miles. Few times it drove just 10 feet or so. It is really dangerous to drive it. Last time (i.e. about one year ago) they replaced the TPS. I wonder wether it broke again or wether they did not fix the problem back then and we were just lucky it did not surface for such a long time.....
  • jirkajirka Member Posts: 15
    The same codes again: P2106, P1295, P2135. Today the car has worked perfectly. They say it could have been caused by the rain (it was raining yesterday). At least they acknowledged it should not happen. Not sure if it is related, but when the car is cold the engine runs unevenly for few minutes.

    Unfortunately, I am out of the country, so I cannot use the warranty. If I knew I would have so many problems with it, I would have never bought it.
  • airmamaairmama Member Posts: 2
    I had a same problem with our 2006 Kia Sedona at about 71,000 miles.
    - The Check Engine and ESC-OFF lights turns on.
    - The engine continues to run but nothing happens when you push the accelerator pedal.
    - Turning the engine off and the restarting fixed the problems temporarily.
    - However, I can feel the acceleration power loss.
    - When I checked the engine malfunction signal at autozone, it dispalyed P1295, P2106, P2135.

    Real problem is tha I already passed factory warrant miles, ...
    All that I have is 3 month powertrain warranty program (engine, transmission, drive axle). I wonder if this malfunction can be covered by this warranty.
    How much will it cost and if it happens again dealership would fix it without charge?
  • jirkajirka Member Posts: 15
    If I remember it right, the cost was about $450. According to this thread at kia-forums, they should change TPS and update the software.
  • airmamaairmama Member Posts: 2
    kia dealership said $97 for inspection only. so total might be plus parts.
    I don't think powertrain warrant can cover software change
    but how about TPS change? (somebody said it's for TSB, TPS, APS or accel position sensor)

    Also I can ask to fix it without charge if same malfunction comes on again after fix?
  • honza78honza78 Member Posts: 1
    Does it ever happen when you travel up and then down a hill? Sometimes when it rains? If so check the wire going to the crank shaft sensor - the wire which "hugs" the right cover of the right cam shafts ( connected to front cover ). That wire is secured to the block by o'dell clamp and the way the sensor communicates with the Ecm is by resistance - I have repaired 4 Sedonas where the o'dell clamp was tightened too tight and with the heat from the block it just simply melts/crimps the wires together not delivering the resistance it needs - take that o'dell clamp of the block and the wire itself - repair wirring (try not to shorten the wire because if the wire is too short the Ecm will recognize it as a short) - fasten o'dell clamp back on the block and just zip tie the wire to the o'dell clamp but not too tight or too loose where it rubs. Good luck
  • artrhurartrhur Member Posts: 1
    My Kia Sedona keeps stalling when I'm driving. I will be stopped at a light and when I go to accelerate the van will shut down. I have to put the car back in Park and restart it and go on my way. Sometimes I will be on the highway the van will stall for a bit with the engine appearing then accelerate like nothing happened. I have taken it to Kia and they ran there reports show nothing no codes. They said it might be bad gas. OK, whatever! This morning I went to drop off my son, and the van shut off on me twice. I barely made it home. I called Kia telling them my problem again they said the can't see the van till Monday. Please I need some answers on this matter. This van is to dangerous to drive with the family! :(
  • daveofphillydaveofphilly Member Posts: 6
    Hi Arthur,

    I'm answering because you might have the same thing i had; but not sure. you should have been able to see my fix through the thread. ( have a Sedona 2005 LX, 110,000 miles.

    My bottom line problem was: stalling ONLY DURING ACCELERATION; AND ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE HAD GOTTEN HOT FROM SITTING IN RUSHOUR TRAFFIC, OR SLOW MOVING TRAFFIC ON A HOT DAY. IT ONLY HAPPENED DURING ACCELLERATION; NEVER WHEN I WAS ALREADY MOVING AT A MODERATE TO FAST SPEED.

    It never seemed dangerous, just inconvenient as it would have to be babied to get it back home. sometimes stalling or near stall several times before getting home. If i would just sit on the side of the road for 15 minutes...long enough for the engine to cool off some; most of the time it ran fine; unless i got back in to bumper-to-bumper traffic.

    Same symptoms of: NO CODES, and the garage couldn't replicate the problem, no matter what they did.

    My Fix...it seems! : During this time, i figured that i needed to change the timing belt which was overdue by 50,000 miles, and the spark plugs changed, which were 10,000 overdue. And i had an Injector Flush. Actually flushed, not an additive, and, after the garage called the california kia tech help, they were advised that a service bulletin for "high heat" stalling named the fix as changing the TPS (Throttle Body Position Sensor). The mechanic couldn't figure out why that would be the fix. But he changed it at my request.

    To-Date: I've been sitting in a lot of traffic (in Philadelphia) since that work was done, and not once has it stalled or sputtered, etc. IT 'SEEMS' THAT ONE OF THE THINGS THAT THEY CHANGED WORKED...AND SUPPOSEDLY IT WAS THE TPS.

    Wish i could be more certain, but it fits the service bulletin symptoms, and the symptoms stopped when they followed the service repair recommendation (tps). So, I would go with that first and see where it leads.

    Hope it helps,

    David
  • thebalifamilythebalifamily Member Posts: 1
    My van stops running while I was driving and wihle I was idling. I try to restart it and it wont trun over. We replaced the battery and thought that was the trick. It didnt do it. I was at church today and I went to drive it out of the parking spot and it just stopped running. The radio, lights and all that worked. But when I went to turn it on to start it, it just clicked and clicked and clicked. It isnt the alternater...any ideas? I had to leave it at church. I went back to start it and it started and then just shut off again. I need some help!!! Soon to be single mom of 3 kids and I dont need my van not working!!! HELP!
  • 88kevin88kevin Member Posts: 1
    hi i see it has been a long while since you posted your problem with your kia sedona not starting---if i were to post my problem it would b word for word thwe same as your problem ----ummm just wondering if you had figured out what the problem was?????????? please help my van did the same crap and i;m told that electrical is not covered in their 10yr100000mile warranty so i just been dealing with the crap--don't have the extra $$$ to let them experiment with if i can pinpoint the problem i can tell them exactly what i want fixed instead of trying 1000 different things!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PLEASE HELP
  • daveofphillydaveofphilly Member Posts: 6
    At the time that they were trying to fix this problem for the 4th time; I was already at about 110,000 miles and needed to get the timing belt changed also, as well as the sparkplugs. However, the manager of the Kia service dept. had called the California help line (not sure what that was), and they said that a Kia Service bulletin for "High Heat/Stalling" had been issued and that the fix was the TSP (Throttle-Body Position Sensor). So, Here's what I had done during that service appt.

    Timing Belt: Changed
    Spark Pluges: changed
    injector system: flush
    Throttle-Body Position Sensor: Changed

    I haven't had any further problems, even in heavy traffic and high heat, since that time. I assume it was the TSP that did the trick.

    Hope this helps.

    David
    Philly
  • regi_dogregi_dog Member Posts: 4
    Well almost a year later and a similar but worse problem has occurred. Van has been idling irratically for a month or so now, once you drive it, it appears to be ok but today it lost power immediately after pulling away from the driveway. Fully depressed gas pedal did nothing. Pulled it over and plaecd in park, and engine ran as if it was missing on several cylinders. Ran this way for two minutes than idled again, but still had no power when gas pedal depressed. This van is a death trap, my children will not be going in this vehicle. By the way this is now the third time that my 40,000 mile vehicle has had this occur, first was at 15,000 miles. This is totally unacceptable. Anyone have similar problems and more importantly a solution?? thanks in advance
  • sedona02sedona02 Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I have a 2002 Kia Sedona with 110,000 miles, we bought it new I have really liked the vehicle. Recently it has begun intermittently not starting. An hour later or so I try it and it will start. A couple of times it has just stalled out when driving. I had it brought in by AAA to a mechanic who kept it for a week and could not find anything. No codes are shown. I saw a couple of post of Throttle Body Position Sensor, and wondered if this sounded like something caused by a faulty one. The mechanic did check the fuel pressure and it was good. Any help would be appreciated. I am afraid to drive it, but am afraid even if I take it to a Kia dealer they will not be able to replicate the problem. Thanks again.
  • tekkatekka Member Posts: 3
    Hi, 2005 kia sedona, and I have same problem started last month, replaced the battery, that's what I thought,........so do I need to change the junction box, or take it a part and find some loos parts( relays) repair and put back, If I need to put anew junction box, will you help me where to find it?

    thanks to all
  • tekkatekka Member Posts: 3
    Please, Any one can help me, I have the same starting problem, starter will not turn over, I Installed new battery, problem still, some times will start when I jump it and other times not, I do not know about the IPM solution, where is that located and where to by it, my van 88k and it is out of warranty.

    Thanks to all
  • 05sedonavan05sedonavan Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever find out what was wrong with your Sedona van, and what did it take to get it fixed? Mine is doing the same thing. When driving it will suddenly jerk and lose power then will resume speed when the gas pedal is pushed. It has also stalled completely at a traffic light. Sometimes the engine light comes on, but not always. The KIA dealer things the ECM (Engine Control Module) needs to be replaced with is a very pricey part (over $1,000 for the part). I'm very interested in finding out the outcome to your problem. Thanks.
  • daveofphillydaveofphilly Member Posts: 6
    I had a full service done at the time of finally getting it fixed. However, it seems likely that it was the TPS (Throttle Body Position Sensor). That was changed (along with new plugs, a new timing belt. Hope this helps. (mine was a '05 Sedona van, not the '04 mentioned above...and not same problem. my check engine light never came on, and would only stall at high heat situations when giving it throttle from slow speed or from a stop...but had to be very hot to happen...usually meaning a hot day and in bumper-to-bumper traffic).

    There was a service bulletin out of California that mentioned the TPS as the fix for this high-heat stalling issue; and it seems they were right. Why??? Don't ask me, and the guys at the dealer couldn't figure it out either.
  • sedona02sedona02 Member Posts: 3
    Not sure who I am replying too, but yes, I did find out what was wrong, at least it has not had the problem since getting fixed. A AAA mechanic thought it might be the crank sensor, and we asked kia to put it in, they did not really want to but did. We also asked them to check the throttle position sensor to see if was malfunctioning, it was not. They also replaced the timing belt at the same time as the crank sensor, as it had never been replaced. Ironically when we got the car back, one rear door that would not automatically lock anymore started working again. The car does not die out anymore and we are glad. Though last week the drivers power stopped working. This car is plagued with electrical problems, we have spent so much money on it, and for sure are getting rid of it soon.
  • maffei001maffei001 Member Posts: 1
    I am glad I found this message board. I have a 2006 kia sedona. we have been having problems with it starting up for almost 2 years. It only has 64000 miles on it and has been in to their service dept too many times to count. They of course keep telling us they cant duplicate the problem. We have been forcing the dealership to put us in a rental car at their expense every time we take it in there. The last time they had the vechile was for the last two and a half weeks. To no avail they did not find anything they replaced the junction box assy this time. Big deal. We picked it up on Saturday at 12 pm and today Tuesday at 5.30 pm the vechile would not start. It has all power but the ignition switch was extremely hot and I smelled a burning smell. Needless to say I got on the phone with the dealership and they sent their service manager in a suit and tie out to inspect the van. As of right now 10.00 pm eastern standard time it is still in the parking lot of my children's daycare where a tow truck was suppose to pick it up approximately 3 hours ago. And yes again we are in a rental car at their expense because the service manager could not understand or get it to start. So much for them not being able to duplicate the problem now he has seen the duplication. Now they have it set up to be in a rental car so they can again tell me they cant find it. I am thinking of contacting an attorney to find out what can be done it is really crazy and I am getting sick of dealing with it. I am forcing my dealership to take this matter and fix it. I am tired of being inconvienced with this problem. I have five children and I was just waiting to get stranded with the youngest ones and now i am gonna blow a gasket so to speak. I have been reading these messages but cant seem to find the problem solver to this situation. Any suggestions before i go crazy?? :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • mike89woofpackmike89woofpack Member Posts: 4
    I understand your frustration!! I have a 2006 Kia Sedona EX with the same intermittent no start problem going on for over a year now. Turn the key and all indicator lights come on, radio and a all accessories work but no response from starter. In my case if I wait 5-10 min it will eventually start. It acts as if it is not in "Park" when trying to start. I've had it in the dealership several times and they can never replicate. Dealer has replaced 2 IPMS, checked battery, starter, relays, connections etc. They refuse to check the ignition switch because Kia corporate says they have no record of this problem related to ignition switch. Dealer wants me to leave it in the shop indefinitely until they can get a DTC but won't pay for a rental car. I have 4 small kids and can't afford a rental or be without the van that long!! My wife is terrified she'll get stranded somewhere with the kids. I've been doing a lot of research online and this problem does not seem to be uncommon, especially with the 2006 model. No one ever posts a solution, though. Dealer has pretty much told me that unless they can replicate there is nothing they can do--aaarrgh!!. Getting ready to call Kia consumer affairs to see if I can make any headway. Would you please post if you find a solution? I will do the same.
  • tekkatekka Member Posts: 3
    edited April 2011
    Thank you for sharing this with me, last month I had fixed the problem myself, what I did is, I Install a cable bypassing every thing, from the battery to the solenoid and I waited till it happened when the starter will not turning, so I used that cable and still did not turn although there is a closed circuit, which means that the solenoid coil is leaking voltage when it is warm due to heat expansion, so I went a head and replaced the starter with solenoid since no body sales solenoids any more, since then I did not have any problem, please let me know If you need any help.
    Thanks again
  • mfoltinymfoltiny Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 sedona ex. It has been in the shop four times in the past four months , three times in past two to three weeks. two different garages different mechanics. the van starts runs for a few seconds/minutes and then stalls. the mechanics could not find anything, nor could they mimic the condition I pick up again, drive to work and it does not work that evening. fuel pressure is fine, starter is fine, replaced cam sensor, all major tests find nothing wrong. last time they found that air filter box was not connected below. if this does not work they think it is in the harness(wiring). I am tired and frustrated. I am afraid to take to work, especially with kids. the van served it purpose but feels like the lottery to win a car. if you put the key in and it starts you won. more frequently I wonder when leaving if I will have to wait over an hour for tow truck, find a ride and take a train. waiting for finances to change and get rid of. dealer too expensive to deal with. mine has 123,000 miles.
  • fdupmomfdupmom Member Posts: 1
    I have had a similar issue with my Kia Sedona 2006 LX. The engine light goes on and off I start the car then it shuts off on its own. Then when it gets going it rocks up and down the road. When I stop the car to get out it locks the ignition and keeps the key I have to unhook the battery to get it out. Tow truck on its way to take to dealer ship to check it out. No one will touch it because its a electrical problem that the dealer ships needs to reprogram. Kia is full of it if they say nothing is wrong with the ignition or any thing alse.
  • robin78258robin78258 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem too, I took it to a midus shop and he said he has seen the same problem with toyota and if you open the trunk and side door it will start...something with the remote control...my remote control key is out too, ordered two more and still won't work....my car will start after a min or so...i just key turning tell it starts,,,sometimes if i leave my window cracked I don't have that problem, I've found....but not always...but lately it's been nearly everyday now since the weather is warmer...Let's all write Kia and complain..as soon as possible...
  • 05sedonavan05sedonavan Member Posts: 2
    Update...My 05 Kia Sedona Van has been fixed. The Kia repair shop returned the car to us to drive further before they replaced the costly ECM as the only codes it it had registered were P0154 and P0134 (these were in the memory and were only symptoms of the cause of the problem). The evening after we picked it up it stalled and died while driving. After sitting awhile it restarted and we got it home. However, it died while driving two more times before we had it towed to the shop on Monday. This was dangerous as one of these times it died at a busy intersection. This losing then regaining power problem had now turned into downright dead stalling. This time at the Kia repair shop it flagged a P0337 Code indicating it needed a new CRANK ANGLE SENSOR. Luckily, a part covered under the extended service warranty we had purchased. It has been over a month now and we have had no problems driving it since. Hope this update helps someone else who may be experiencing a similar problem.
  • thillierthillier Member Posts: 1
    i had have a 2004 kia sedona it starts and runs for 5 min then shuts off no warning it getting fuel checked that wonder if anyone else has one with same problem if so did you find the problem and how did you have it repaired thanks
  • gatottengatotten Member Posts: 8
    The fuel pump (in tank) has a filter screen on the intake to keep the pump from getting damaged. It can clog and cause the symptoms that you describe. Also, the pump can start - run - and then fail in a repeated fashion. The most likely cure is to have the fuel pump replaced. A good mechanic can check the fuel pressure while it's running so you can be sure that it's a fuel problem - not an electrical one.
  • cbooecbooe Member Posts: 1
    I have 2005 Kia Sedona. g">ot in van to leave for appt. friday key would not turn either way. I called my husband who is my certified Mechanic. It has just over 100,000 miles have had thia problem before but he always got it to start but not this time. he started taking apart and it released while he was taking apart. So how do we fix the problem . I can't afford to be stranded. My Parent rely on me to transport.
    Thanks
    Cindy
    :confuse: :mad:
  • jcarrerajcarrera Member Posts: 2
    there is a tsb from kia for your issue have your dealer look up ipm,
  • daytonabobdaytonabob Member Posts: 1
    Hi,i too have the same problem with my kia.. If it doesnt want to start when you turn the key,hit the underside of the steering collum with the palm of your hand,you need to hit it hard about 3 times.. Then it should start right up.. What is happening is the security brain is inside the collum,and it thinks your tryn to steal.. So it interupts the ignition from engaging the starter.. And kia will not admit the problem,my friend is a service manager for kia.. To me of the simple fix.. It actually needs a new security brain installed,it cost around 350.00 and is simple to fix,but dealer does beed to install,after main computer needs to be updated... I hope this helps you guys.. I know the frustration that it can cause.. When you smack the underside of the steering collum it resets.. And will start up.. But dont look for your dealer to help you,kia has them on a no talk about it order.. But its a known update that you must pay for.if you have over 60,000 miles... Bob.. PS let me know if that helps
  • mike89woofpackmike89woofpack Member Posts: 4
    Bob,
    Thanks for the response. I've always suspected it had something to do with a security glitch but my Kia dealer wouldn't hear anything of it. I'm going to give this a try. I wonder why Kia wouldn't just fix this (at $350) vs. replacing 2 ipms costing thousands? Go figure.
  • tasbury1tasbury1 Member Posts: 3
    Interesting, but how does smacking the bottom of the steering column reset and eletriacl component. If you turn the key and the starter won't engage sounds electrical to me. Plus the all the "brains" are electrical.
  • mares7mares7 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Kia Sedona (133,00 miles) ... we recently changed the fuel pump sensor and now both O2 sensors needs to be changed. We are getting ready to take a 1200 mile vacation from texas to ohio. Does anyone know if it is dangerous to not fix right away? I have asked the professionals but no one has said its urgent... has anyone delt with this problem?
  • flactemflactem Member Posts: 8
    Hello,
    Our Sedona has about 107,000 miles on it. It started the stalling problem in September. I was leaving work and coasting to a stop out of the parking lot and it just shut off. I thought, that was odd, but continued to drive after restarting it right away. I drove a few more miles and while sitting at a red light, it stalled again. It started up right away and I drove a few more miles home. The next day, I set out for a 400 mile trip in it at 5 a.m. About 10 miles down the interstate it gave a good jerk. I thought I lost the cargo carrier of the roof of the van. What had happened was it stalled and restarted. It felt like it was bump starting. It did it again about 30 miles later, then again about 10 more. But, the whole rest of the trip it was fine. While I was at my destination, I started the van up in the parking lot and let it run while I was charging my cell for a bit. It stalled at one point, but then restarted right away. Then, the whole drive home (400 miles) it did not do anything and ran fine. About a month ago, I drove it about 100 miles away and it stalled at an intersection and would not restart. Tried and tried. It was cold (about 35 degrees) and the kids were getting pretty cold inside the broke down van as we waited 3 hours for AAA to show up. Ice on the inside of the windows cold. I'd try it every once in a while, but it wouldn't restart. However, on one occassion it did. It ran for about 10 minutes and then stalled and wouldn't restart. The tow truck brought it home. When I got home the same night, I got in it, started it, and drove it into the driveway. Needless to say, I'm afraid to drive it anywhere. I don't mind spending money to fix it, but I don't want to spend money on the wrong thing.

    I've had people mention the fule pump. I've seen people mention a crank shaft problem of some sort. Some have said maybe electrical... I just don't get it. What is the problem? Others on here have had the same exact problems as me.

    Also, a couple years ago, we started getting the check engine light. It seemed to be for no reason. The van ran fine. There were no problems. Took it to Autozone and they said the code was indicating some sort of sensor in the neck of the fuel fill that might be bad. But, I didn't worry about it. I thought maybe the cap didn't get tighted right or it was overfilled or something.

    Please help with the stalling issue though. I would really appreciate it!

    Thanks!
  • tasbury1tasbury1 Member Posts: 3
    Congratulations you got 107,000 miles out of yours before it started. My 2006,even today, only has 16,286 miles on it and it has had me on the side of the road in Kansas for 4 days becuase it kept stalling and whne I take it to KIA they can not find anything wrong and are not really interested in finding it since it is 5 years old and out of warranty yet I paird $824 for the 120 yr 100,000 mile warranty. Next time I buy Buick at half the price I paid for th eSedona
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