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GMC Yukon / Yukon Denali

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  • I know there was a certain amount of disussion last year about the cold air coming in on the passenger sides foot well....does anyone know how GMC has resolved this? Is there a TSB I can reference at the dealership? Thanks for the reply.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Drivers Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal) #01-01-37-008
    Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Driver's Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal)
    1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Silverado, Sierra) and Utility (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) Models

    2002 Cadillac Escalade

    Condition
    Some customers may comment that the passenger side of the vehicle may be:

    Colder than the driver's side when the heat mode is on.
    Warmer than the driver's side when the air conditioning (A/C) mode is on.
    There may be dampness on the vehicle dash assembly when the A/C mode is on.
    Cause
    Condition may be due to poor sealing of the HVAC air inlet case to the front of dash or the recirculation mode door actuator may not hold the recirculation door closed while driving.

    Correction
    Replace the recirculation door actuator (if necessary) and repair the HVAC case to cowl seal using the following procedures:

    Place the A/C control in the manual heat mode.
    Remove the fixed mast radio antenna.
    Open the hood and install fender covers.
    Remove both wiper arm assemblies using the following procedure:
    Disconnect the washer solvent hose from the air inlet grille panel nozzle.
    Remove the cover from the wiper arm retainer. Remove the retainer.

    Important
    Use a battery terminal puller in order to remove the wiper arm.

    Rock the wiper arm back and forth in order to loosen the arm from the drive shaft. Remove the wiper arm.
    Lower the hood.
    Remove the air inlet grille panel using the following procedure:
    On each end of the air inlet grille panel is a rubber flap for the hood hinge cutout. Lift this flap and remove the air inlet grille panel attaching screw.
    Remove the air inlet grille panel center top push pin.
    Remove the clips that position the forward edge of the grille panel to the top of the cowl.
    Disconnect the windshield washer supply hose from the bottom of the grille panel.
    Remove the air inlet grille panel by sliding the panel rearward up the windshield and out.
    Just to the left of the right hood hinge, on the horizontal surface of the cowl, locate a cover that is sealed in place. The cover has TRW stamped into it.
    With a sharp knife, cut out the panel following the panel impression in the sealer tape.
    Place a lifting device between the cover and the dash. Lift the cover enough to allow another tool to depress and release the front retaining tabs by pushing rearward on them. Remove the cover.
    Look through the opening where you just removed the cover. You will see what looks like a piece of foam about 76 x 127 mm (3 x 5 in). This is the A/C recirculation door that is within the HVAC module.
    Reach into the opening and carefully pull on the air inlet recirculation door. If the recirculation door moves with very little effort, replace the air inlet (recirculation) door actuator (Manual systems only). For systems with the Automatic Temperature control, initialize the system using published Service procedures.
    Between the top of the HVAC air inlet module (appears as a 6 mm (1/4 inch) black strip) and the cowl sheet metal is a foam seal. This foam seal may be improperly positioned or damaged in some way (insufficient crush/sealing). This may allow outside ambient air to enter the passenger compartment incorrectly (under driving conditions). This can be corrected using the following procedure:

    Important
    It is imperative that a good seal be achieved over the entire surface areas (no voids or skips), especially around the rear and sides of the HVAC case to cowl areas.

    Seal the area between the cowl and HVAC case with RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant, P/N 12345739 (in Canada, use P/N 10953541).
    Using your finger, from the engine side of the cowl, ensure that the foam is stuck nicely to the HVAC module and does not have any distortions.
    From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, place a shop cloth into the opening and cover the blower fan. This keeps silicone from dripping onto the motor and causing an imbalance condition.
    From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, apply the RTV silicone to bridge the gap and cover the foam between the cowl sheet metal and the HVAC module case. Inspect your work with a light and a mirror. Ensure that no gaps or skips are present in the RTV seal.
    Inspect your work for potential drips, runs, etc. If no problem is seen, remove the shop cloth covering the blower motor.
    Apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive, P/N 12345097 (in Canada, use P/N 10953479) around the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, where the cover fits into the cowl.
    Place the cover on the workbench, top on the surface, and apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive on the edge of the cover.
    Place the cover into the cowl opening and snap into place.
    Apply another bead of weatherstrip adhesive around the joint between the cover and the top of the cowl. Smooth this bead into a smooth surface with a finger or tool of some kind.
    Place the leaf screen to the cowl. Attach the washer supply hose to the bottom of the air inlet grille panel. Do not place the fasteners in at this time.
    Install the radio fixed mast antenna. Tighten 1/4 turn after contact is made with the base.
    Lower but do not close the hood.
    Center the opening in the air inlet grille panel around the antenna mast and then install the air inlet grille panel retaining screws. Tighten
    Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (18 lb in).

    Raise the hood.
    Reinstall the air inlet grille panel center retainer and front edge retaining clips.
    Cycle the wipers to ensure the wiper system is in the parked position.

    Important
    Inspect the windshield lower edge on each side. About 51-76 mm (2-3 in) from the bottom, you will find a 13 mm (1/2 in) long black mark embedded in the glass. The black line is the position for the wiper blade to be in when the wiper system is in the parked position.

    Install the wiper arm assemblies. Position the wiper blades just below the black marks in the windshield.
    Install the retaining nuts. Tighten
    Tighten the retainers to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

    Reconnect the washer hoses.
    Remove the fender covers.
    Close the hood.
    Parts Information
    Part Number Description
    12345097 (In Canada use P/N 10953479) Adhesive, Weatherstrip
    12345739 (In Canada use P/N 10953541) Sealant, RTV Silicone

    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

    Warranty Information
    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

    Labor Operation Description Labor Time
    D2118 Seal, HVAC Module to Body 1.3 hrs
    Add Actuator, Air Inlet Door - Replace 1.0 hr
    This is a unique labor operation for use only with this bulletin. The number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.

    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  • My husband recently bought me a 2002 Denali for Christmas (yay!). Unfortunately it has started to "lock-up" as if the gears aren't shifting properly. The dealer, who is extremely rude to me, looked at it but does not have an answer. My husband is currently out of town so I am out of answers. Can anyone help?

    -Cathy.
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    gmcathy: for an immediate diagnosis press your OnStar button and ask the attendant for a diagnosis of your Denali over the cell line. Next have them direct you to another nearby dealer for an immediate check of the vehicle. Could be a software issue or it could be hardware. The on-line diagnosis should be able to point you in the right direction immediately.

    Good Luck!
  • sidwaysidway Posts: 6
    I have a 2002 Denali on order and want to install the DXL 2nd row captains chairs....will they fit properly in existing holes ?
  • andyl2andyl2 Posts: 84
    No. The middle row is totally different in the 2 vehicles. In addition, I bet purchasing the captains chairs would be VERY expensive.
  • lalanelalane Posts: 39
    andyl2 is correct. I have the DXL w/ captains chairs and my brother-in-law has the shorty. Mounting is totally different including the carpet configuration. However, I went to the Los Angeles auto show and saw it done, but it was completely custom. New mounting holes, custom carpet and after markets chairs. Money talks!!
  • Just purchased a used 2001 Denali XL 7 days ago. We can't stay out of it. I have wanted a Navigator for the last four years, but when it came down to it the Denali was a better buy overall. We are impressed so far and will particpate in this forum. The information from scanning the forum has been great.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,990
    Congratulations on the "new" Denali, and welcome to Town Hall.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • Hi All,

    Does anyone have any leads on nice molded rear mud flaps for the 2002 Denali (not XL).

    Damn, does this beast ever kick up the schmutz! :-)

    Thanks,

    Rich
    2k2denali
  • Called husky liners @ 1 800 344 8759 ext 112. Talked to a Charmi who said they will be making mud guards for the Avalanche in a couple weeks and they should fit the Denali.

    They do make mud guards for the Suburban, Tahoe and ,Yukon-XL which is part # 5722. I have no idea if this guard will fit the Denali.

    www.huskyliner.com
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    2k2denali: I purchased the factory flaps from the dealer and installed them on my 2001 DXL. They are molded with the GMC logo and are designed for the normal Yukon or Yukon XL. At first I didn't think they would work with the Denali because of the body cladding, however I brought them home and installed them myself.

    I held them in place to see how they looked before installing. I liked how they looked and they were easy to install with three small black sheet metal screws which I installed into the plastic molding inside the wheel well. They look nice and there should be no rust since no holes were made in metal. I installed them on all 4 corners since the awd kicks alot of road debris from all 4 tires. I have had them on for 8 months without any problems.
  • Which width did you get 11" or 9".

    Did you have to remove the rear tires to install?

    A local dealer said they are $17.50 per set and both rear and front are identical.
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    joker35: The flaps I installed are 11 inches wide. They're identical on both ends and your price sounds about right. The front tires can be installed by turning the steering wheel. The rear flaps will require you to take off the tires.

    Just a side note: When I installed the front flaps they turned out to be a bit long. You'll understand when you align the molded portion on the flap with the body cladding of the Denali. It aligns nicely but the bottom of the flap is just a tad low on the front end. In hard turns where the suspension compresses, the flap would very rarely ground out on the road. No harm, but it was annoying the couple of times it happened.

    I remedied the flaps by taking them off and trimming about a 1/2" off the bottom of the flap with a dremel cutoff. Impossible to tell they were "doctored". No problem on the rears as the flaps will be much higher off the ground.

    With that 1/2" trimmed it has never touched again.
  • My belt was squeaking quite a bit, so I took it to the dealer. They said there was some sort of "glaze" on part of it that they couldn't get off. It took them a couple of weeks for a replacement, but it's free under warranty. I have only had the new belt for a few hundred miles and no squeak yet, but it took about 18k for the squeak to start with the first one.

    jphdxl: Did you have problems with headroom in the driver's seat? I'm 6'7" and have no problems with my sunroof. On the other hand, I do have problems with fitting people in the seat directly behind me. I never took any measurements, but I swear I lost about a foot of total leg room between from and back seats when I traded in my 99 Yukon.
  • Just wondering what color choices everybody chose and if you are happy with the quality of the paint job on your Denali's. I have a 2001 GMC C3 and it only comes in black, pewter, and green. I chose black and it is a near perfect paint job with deep gloss and panels that line up great. Just a little "orange peel" on the side but I can live with it.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    If you end up with belt noise again have them check thei TSB out.

    Accessory Drive Belt Whine (Reposition Power Steering Pump Pulley) #01-02-32-007

    Accessory Drive Belt Whine (Reposition Power Steering Pump Pulley)

    2001-02 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 1500 Series Utility Models (Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL, Denali, Denali XL)

    Built at Janesville Assembly Plant (Plant Code J) from December, 2000 through July, 2001

    Condition

    Some customers may comment on a whining-type noise that is audible in the vehicle's passenger compartment. This noise can typically be heard when the vehicle is idling and may vary in pitch as engine
    RPM is increased.

    Cause

    The power steering (PS) pump pulley may be positioned too far inboard on the PS pump.

    Correction

    Inspect the PS pump pulley for proper positioning on the PS pump shaft. If it is determined that the pulley is not even/flush with the end of the shaft (+/- 0.25 mm (0.010 in) following the applicable Service Manual procedure and using J 25034-C, reposition the PS pump pulley.
  • lsgs97lsgs97 Posts: 6
    What should a Yukon XL Denali be trading for nowadays.. Assuming of course Sun roof and bucket seats.. I seem to be sensing about $1500 over invoice price.. Has anyone bought one recently? Thanks

    Greg
  • lalanelalane Posts: 39
    I get this buzzing sound usually from a very slow start and applying gas . I started to hear this while driving up my parking structure (about a 15% upgrade) at work (10 MPH speed limit) and very time I come out of a turn, giving it alittle gas, I get this buzzing or vibration noise. The buzzing goes away once the load on the engine stabilizes (approx. 1/2 to 2 seconds max.) Anybody else experience this??
  • larrys7larrys7 Posts: 35
    I'm considering selling my 01 Yukon Denali XL. Anyone know where is best place to list on the net? email @ larrys@cdsinet.net
  • Heatwave3: Where did you get those mud flaps ?
    Dealer says GM does not make them.
  • jphdxljphdxl Posts: 32
    Between the lower head liner in cars/suvs with sunroofs and the higher seating position with power seats, I have trouble in most cars and suvs. I did sit in an MBS500 once that had plenty of room, and plenty of price tag too. Leg room however is ok in most vehicles. I must be disproportionately long in the torso. I had the same problem (not surprisingly) in the Tahoe, Sub, Yukon, YXL, and their Denali cousins. Every time we hit a bump my head would slam into the inside edge of the sunroof (basically my head was sticking into the roof opening, almost touching the glass). Do you sit leaning to one side to get your head into the sunroof opening when you drive?
  • jphdxljphdxl Posts: 32
    Sometime ago I purchased the billet emblem (I think from empire motor sports) and just got around to installing it. The red OEM badge came off pretty easily, but the black plastic background is stuck on pretty good. Do I need to remove the black piece to install the new logo? The threaded bolts that came with the billet don't seem long enough to fit the grill. What am I doing wrong?

    Jason
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    mmacfarlane: I bought the flaps at my GMC dealer. You can also get them at <http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/> but I think after shipping is included it will be the same or more than the cost at the dealer. Don't ask the dealer for molded flaps for the denali, just ask for the normal molded 11" flaps for a Yukon XL with the GMC logo.


    jphdxl: You will need to use the black background of the original logo. There are openings in the grill that will not be fully covered by the billet logo. I think you'll find it looks good with the black plastic background, however I recall it took some "jury-rigging" to get to fasten well and tight. I'm not sure I can recall all the steps but I can assure you that you'll need the logo background. I hope this helps.

  • Does anyone know how Cadillac got the
    extra horsepower/torque from their 6.0
    engine ?

    Has anyone used the Poron Micro 3 Back Talk
    reverse sensing system and how is it holding
    up ?
  • jphdxljphdxl Posts: 32
    Thanks! I'll try again this weekend.

    Jason
  • A Rhino hitch step from JC Whitney. Its on sale for 10% off. Not only will it enable you to step on it if you needed to get to the top rear of your vehicle but it will also protect your rear bumper, which is the real reason I bought it.

    Comes with a storage bag when you are using your hitch for towing, an anti rattle device and a pin with a clip to hold it in place.

    To prevent an easy theft of the hitch step I purchased a stainless locking pin from performance products. Comes with two keys and a cover that protects the key hole from dirt.

    For 2" hitch holes.
  • jimrlvjimrlv Posts: 1
    mmacfarlane - I have a 2000 Yukon XL and I have the Poron Micro 3 LV, this is the digital display unit. I have had it for over a year with no problems.

    I mounted the digital readout above the rear view mirror and fished the cable above the headliner all the way back to the left rear hatch post and down into the tailight housing. I put the power unit inside the small storage compartment near the hatch on the left side of the Yukon.

    Poron ships fast, three day delivery.
  • larry91larry91 Posts: 189
    They probably picked up the xtra horsepower from either using longer runners on the intake manifold, or a different cam. I don't really think it makes much of a performance difference, if any.
    Larry
  • I sit with the seat all the way down, back, and reclined. That affords me plenty of head room, but not as much leg room as I would like, especially for longer trips. Of course, it is a dream compared to the Volvo 240 I used to drive.

    On a different note, does anybody know where all 11 of the speakers are? I can find 9, including the two tweeters up front, 1 in each of the four doors, two in the very back, and the sub.
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