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Isuzu Axiom Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • a9x2a9x2 Member Posts: 25
    edited May 2011
    Oh okay, didn't know the 4wd had 4 discs. I had warping when I did the first brake job in 09 and in Feb they wanted to resurface them so I said WTH and bought D&S. I guess the all the nose diving contributes to the poor front brake wear. Anywho I posted a link with the rotors I bought. Have you done shock/strut replacement, I'm contemplating that. Know what I should expect for labor?

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Isuzu-Axiom-01-04-FRONT-Brake-Disc-Rotors-Ceramic- - -Pads-/360363194004?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AIsuzu%7CMo- - del%3AAxiom&hash=item53e751f694
  • nt4x4pmnt4x4pm Member Posts: 4
    I have an 02' with some major issues. The radiator cracked not to long ago and the car started to over heat. I replaced the radiator, and the car not only continues to over heat, but to bog down as well, every now and emitting some white some out of the exhaust. The car runs great until it reaches operating temperature, then all hell breaks loose, not spitting out even one code. My speculation is that A: The thermostat is bad, B: The water pump is bad, or C: All of the above plus a timing belt. This would be nice to get some info on, but every mechanic I have seen has pretty much laughed me out of their shop, and I am not spending $1800 to get this repaired. Plus an added bonus, the guys at Auto Zone are clueless and can't even order half of the parts that are needed. Does anyone have any suggestions, or know where I can obtain literature on the motor? Any insight would help me. Thanks.
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    First thing that comes to mind, by your description, is a bad head gasket or a cracked block. The radiator could have failed from over pressure from the head gasket leaking but I'd think you would have seen a lot of white smoke back then. What does your temp gauge read when it starts to run rough? How does the dipstick and oil look? Is there any white residue on the stick or when looking into the oil filler hole? What's radiator fluid look like? Is it reasonably clear with no oil slick present or heavy cloudiness?

    If it runs fine at first, that doesn't sound like a timing belt issue. How many miles on the OD?

    Get on the internet for parts, they are out there and there are breakers that have a good used parts inventory available, it just takes time. And there are always Isuzu dealers but with their heavy markup.

    Regards
    Bert
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    Go to http://www.myisuzuparts.com/index.php

    Follow the directions and you will see a complete online parts catalog.

    Bert
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    Sorry about the late reply. Edmunds seems to kick my off auto post once in a while. Thanks for the Ebay link

    Yeah I was the first one to do the shock swap and others followed and did some great documentation. It's all in the archives with all the part numbers you need. I did the swap my self and it took me about 2.5 hours. I had and used an oxy-acetylene torch and a high speed air grinder to get the shocks off and just cut off the active suspension wires to the shock tops. I think it was very economical compared to replacing the old shocks with the original type shocks and I like the ride better.

    Regards
    Bert
  • nt4x4pmnt4x4pm Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Bert.

    The oil is fine, and the radiator fluid isn't cloudy at all. The car starts running rough only after it has over heated. Really, it runs great until it over heats. There is no residue around the filler, but I did notice some coolant pooling on top of the motor by the thermostat. It has roughly 130k on the OD. I pulled the plugs as well and found them all to be in decent shape.
  • a9x2a9x2 Member Posts: 25
    I recently had a cracked radiator and the first thing the mechanic suggested was a cracked head gasket. Something about it looking for the weakest point in the cooling system and that was it. Thankfully it was just the radiator. That repair price is about right too. Sounds like ur AX is toast. I'd fill it up with fluids, hurry to the dealer and get a little something on trade. Just curious.... Why do mechanics not want your business?
  • a9x2a9x2 Member Posts: 25
    I'm not so mechanically inclined I will be going to the dealer for the replacement. I doubt they will work with non oem. I did pull the fuse under the hood though--marginally better.
  • nt4x4pmnt4x4pm Member Posts: 4
    I got the same answer from each mechanic. They cant get parts and they cant warranty the work. The Isuzu 3.5L is apparently a rare motor and parts are too hard/expensive to come by. I finally found a Firestone that is willing to work on it, but like I said.... $$$. I am probably just going to trade it in.
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    I'd try salvagedirect.com.
    Search under SUV and Isuzu, and you will see about 15 vehicles.

    There might be one close to you or worth shipping to you if the bids stay low enough.

    Regards
    Bert
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    I'd try one thing first.

    Open up the thermostat housing and remove the thermostat. Put some gasket goop on and replace the housing. Go for a drive and see if your overheating is solved. Sometimes thermostats fail in a closed position. One could always hope for a simple solution. I'm sure you can find a thermostat if that is the problem. If not, it's got to be the pump.

    Regards
    Bert
  • dmcglatherydmcglathery Member Posts: 1
    My Mechanic installed new shocks on the rear of my 2002 Axiom.
    I noticed the shock light is now own. Can you tell me how to turn it off completely? I can't find the fuse. Thank you.
  • a9x2a9x2 Member Posts: 25
    Why do people only post here with problems?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited June 2011
    Well, it is the Maintenance and Repair board.

    For a more general discussion (although people post about problems too), you can try the Isuzu Axiom discussion.
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    I'd just put a small piece of black electrical tape over the light. Simplest solution I can think of.....

    Regards
    Bert
  • a9x2a9x2 Member Posts: 25
    You Know I saw this on my friends car and always wandered what it was lol! Bert j/c, does ur click/compass work?
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    Actually I'm a very good mechanic, and love solving problems within complex systems, but I like to take the path of the simplest solution when it's available. Most complex systems fail for simple reasons.

    Yeah, my clock and all the stuff on my display work just fine.

    Regards
    Bert
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    I wrote a detailed step-by-step post about 2 years ago about how to remove the original Isuzu Axiom ISC system and replace it with standard off-the-shelf shocks like Monroes. In it, I mentioned that there is a fuse under the hood of the vehicle - I believe it is named "Active Ride" or something similar, that powers up the ISC system. Once you remove the Intelligent Suspension Control parts/pieces, you can also remove this fuse and the dashlight will go out. There is no other negative impact. Also, good to do if you are going to trade or sell the vehicle. In any case, I drove mine like that for 3 or 4 years with no problems - kept the fuse in the glove box just in case, but never needed it. If memory serves me it's a 30 amp fuse and the fuse box is on the left hand side of the vehicle engine compartment under a black plastic cover that protects the fuse box there.

    Hope that helps.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Here's the link:

    walk_the_walk2, "Isuzu Axiom Maintenance and Repair" #61, 16 Oct 2008 7:58 am
  • nt4x4pmnt4x4pm Member Posts: 4
    So, It was a cracked block. I was pulling into the Honda dealership to trade it in and the motor completely locked up. I just coasted into a parking spot. They gave me right under 3k for it. Pretty good deal since they failed to drive the car before they offered my value. Sorry to say, but if you have an Axiom, and the know how to fix it, still, get out from under it. Trade in value is about to diminish on this vehicle due to the closing window for a market for that car. Same as private party value as well. Honda pretty much cussed me on the phone today for the matter. I really appreciate everyone's help, but it was time for that car to go.
  • a9x2a9x2 Member Posts: 25
    Congratz on the new Honda! What did you get? And as far as resale, do you realize that you are talking about a 10 yr old car!? LMBO, I mean really? J/C why is the value about to diminish so suddenly? Driving mine that is still in great shape is saving me a fortune! I still get complimets on it weekly. I'd rather have my (paid 4)AX than a new Civic,Cruze, etc. Bert...?
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    Yeah, well, I agree. My AX is running fine now and as long as it continues to do so I'll drive it into the ground. It hasn't been worth much as a used vehicle for sometime and will decline in value even faster as it continues to age. But if mine runs and costs little to keep it running I'll keep driving it.

    I have people also say that they like to look of my AX also. If I wash it and wax it it does look pretty good even next to a newer car.

    Hope your new Honda works well for you.

    Regards
    Bert
  • a9x2a9x2 Member Posts: 25
    Trying to replace a burned out bulb. Unscrew the four screws then do I pull off the silver trim? Theres a black "thing" in the center, does that jimmy off-- seems like that is stopping me from getting the trim off to get to the bulb.

    http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n558/a9x2/Tag.jpg
  • dsimoniadsimonia Member Posts: 3
    i guess my isuzu axiom shock absorbers are dead, i want to replace them with new ones.. though i can't find anywhere electronic shocks for my isuzu..even on the EBAY.. i can find usuall gas shocks fitting isuzu axiom, but they are not electronic..anyone now where can i find them to buy??
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    No. It would likely be a dealer item, unless you bought a used set, which would be a bad idea. Here's why: the ISC shocks on the Axiom were a flawed design that combined electronic actuators mounted to specialty shocks and a computer system that inflated the bladder device in the electronic actuator to absorb shock. In theory, it was great, but it worked horribly, because the design engineers at Isuzu programmed in too much gain on the actuator, which resulted in a "sproingy" ride that most people hated. Disable the electonic ISC and you got a really stiff ride, that few liked either. No way to make it "just right", so some of us (yours truly included), figured out that the ride was better if you just disabled the ISC electronic module altogether, by pulling out the orange 30 amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood.

    A few of us (yours truly included) also figured out that, in spite of statements to the contrary by some dealers, you can replaced the crappy electronic shocks on this vehicle with standard off-the-shelf shocks like Monroe Sensatrac or other similar shocks.

    There are several postings about this topic on this forum, as Bert did it first, and I followed suit, glad to get rid of the ISC crappola sproingy shocks that never worked right in the first place. Somewhere in the prior postings on this forum, is a detailed step-by-step set of instructions on how to remove your old Axiom ISC shocks and replace them with Monroes. You can pick another brand if you like - you do not have to use Monroes, but the instructions will be virtually identical.

    The rub is that if you go to a tire and shock place, and ask them to replace them, they will look up your vehicle and not find a shock to fit it in their shock mfgr.'s catalog. But you can either get the Monroes, or cross the model number to a similar shock by another manufacturer. Find a premium tire shop that does work on racing cars, and show them the step-by-step instructions and they should be able to take if from there.

    The other option is to order a set of four OEM ISC shocks from an Isuzu parts dealer - some of the best discount parts dealers are also mentioned in prior postings, if you hunt around for the info. But, I can't see why anyone would want to put ISC shocks back on an Axiom - the ride is much better with off-the shelf shocks. At least, that's my opinion on it.

    Good luck.
  • jedmustangjedmustang Member Posts: 12
    I concurr with walk_the_walk2 reply.

    I bought the regular gas type (nonelectronic) shocks at a NAPA store and had them installed at a Mieneke shop. (got better parts price at NAPA). NAPA.com lists the correct shocks to use on their website.

    Probably any shock, brake service shop should be able to do the work.

    I am happy with the result.
  • dsimoniadsimonia Member Posts: 3
    it means the button SPORT - changing the riding mode won't work again if i replace shocks with usuall gas shocks? i found somewhere MONROE electrical shock absorbers, they were quite expensive, but if i buy them they will keep my SPORT button work again? whats the point, i have to buy regular gas shocks?
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    No the sport button won't work again................
    I doubt that the Monroe electrics will fit and why pay such a high price anyway? Besides if you could restore the original shocks you're just left with a crappy ride at a great expense.

    Go back in the archives and look up the procedure to replace the Isuzu shocks with conventional shocks. You will save a lot of money and wind up with a better ride.

    Regards
    Bert
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    Dsimonia: You are correct that if you replace the Isuzu OEM electronic ISC shocks (and actuators) with non-standard off-the-shelf SUV shocks, like Monroes or Biltsteins or whatever, the SPORT button will not work. All the SPORT button did was deactivate the little electonic bladder/actuator that sits on top of each shock. You can crawl under your vehicle and see the device for yourself. It's a black plastic device with a wiring harness attached to it that sits on top of the shock, easy to spot when you look at the front shocks in particular.

    As for me, I am glad to be shed of mine. If you like that ISC feature, you will have to buy Isuzu shocks. I am not aware of any after-market substitutes.
  • dsimoniadsimonia Member Posts: 3
    ok and if i put usuall gas shocks there, i think the shock light will appear in panel..check suspension or something like that, or not?
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    Dsimonia: Yes, that's sorta correct. But, (and this is detailed in my step-by-step instructions on how to do this from the prior posting), if you remove the 30 amp orange fuse from the fuse box under the hood (I think it's on the passenger side, if memory serves me and is labeled "Active Ride"), then the indicator light that looks like a shock aborber will NOT light up. This fuse only serves the ISC Active Ride subsystem anyway. Those of us that did this did not experience any negative side effects, either, unless you really like the bouncy-bouncy ride you had with the ISC system, that is. Instead, your Isuzu will have a normal ride like a regular SUV.
  • ewpewp Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Axiom and had transmission problems that resulted in Isuzu changing my transmission at their expense. When I picked up the vehicle the speedometer did not work. That problem also created a check engine light. The heading indicator also did not work even tho the satellite indicator showed I had satellite reception. I quickly turned around and told the maintenance supervisor. He took the car back and after a couple more hours on the rack came back and said I needed a new "Speed Sensor" and for $485 he could fix that.

    My question is, where exactly is that speed sensor, a picture would be nice, and what does that sensor look like? Thank you so much for and help. EWP Pappy
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    Wow. That's a thorny situation. For one thing, if all of these features worked beforehand, your mechanic has some explaining to do. To make matters worse, there are multiple speed sensors on the vehicle, depending on whether it has TOD/4WD or not, although it is clear from the Service Manual for the 2002 Axiom that the speedometer is tied to one of them and its failure will post a DTC trouble code.

    To be clearer, there are speed sensors at the front wheels, a speed sensor on the rear end for the ABS system, and one on the tranny body itself, and possibly a few more if you have 4WD. All are shown and described in the Service Manual, which you can buy and download online.

    Or, you can send me a private message to "inboxatbancca.org" (Only replace the "at" with the @ symbol), and I can send you the 3 pertinent pages, which show the sensors in question.

    If I were you, I would take the vehicle to another mechanic and get another price right off, and also an opinon as to whether the dealer is responsible for possibly damaging your speed sensor when they repaired or replaced your tranny. What may be happening here, if it is the speed sensor on the tranny body itself, and I think this is the case, is that some Neanderthal shade-tree mechanic damaged your speed sensor during the tranny repair or replacement and now wants you to pony up hundreds to replace a sensor that probably costs $100 or less. I just hope they did not do additional damage beyond the speed sensor to other sensitive modules in your Axiom.

    However, do your own due diligence on this. Since it's a 2002, there is the possibility that this is coincidental failure; however the sky high repair price leads me to believe otherwise. This is where finding another professional who can give you another estimate is crucial - otherwise you might want to repair it yourself. Looks like an easy swap out - not much harder than replacing an oxygen sensor really.

    Last but not least, if this turns out to be the dealer, don't forget you can file a BBB complaint, a complaint with the attorney general of your state, or you can march them into small claims court for next to nothing. Just be sure to document your side first, if you opt to do this.
  • ewpewp Member Posts: 2
    WOW Thank you so much Walk2 .
    Mail is on the way.
  • art2002art2002 Member Posts: 1
    i also own a 2002 axiom with transmission problem that has been rebuilt approximately 40,000 miles ago (115,000 miles odo). currently the transmission is jerking when it is shifting to second gear particularly from cold start. i may have to have it rebuilt again. the problem you encountered with no speedometer reading, wrong display of heading, cruise control inop, is caused by a worn out driven speed gear-part number 8-97144-659-1. it's available at dealer part only, $43.22 plus tax. installation by dealer from our area is $135.00. i have a reliable, knowlegeable mechanic here in orlando who installed it for only $35.00. my mechanic also have replaced/installed the following - new a/c compressor & dryer-$700.00; water pump, timing built & timing tensioner-$400.00. the interior of my car is still immaculate so i'm keeping it for a while as long as i have my reliable mechanic servicing it. the shocks are also in need of replacement, so i'm replacing the original electronic absorbers with the standard monroe absorbers. answer to your question is http://www.myisuzuparts.com/2003/893/2/2-25/showparts.html
  • massmusclecarmassmusclecar Member Posts: 18
    The 2003/04 base model axioms did not have the ISC system, and some other standard features- they just had basic shocks and they seem to be readlily available aftermarket. they might be the same part number as rodeo. So far my ISC shocks are fine, a bit of weepage in one of them but they still feel firm. The ISC unit on the top of the shock basically limited the amount of movement in the shock by opening and closing a valve that controlled the number of steps in the shock valve damping. If I recall from 7 steps to 4 for the firmer sport ride.
    For a better ride, be sure your tire pressure is no more than 3 pounds above the standard 26PSI. Regards.
    Go Farther...
  • arkyaxarkyax Member Posts: 2
    I have an '02 2wd Axiom with a strange problem that I haven't seen on the board. I live in Arkansas and when it gets really cold outside (low 20s or lower) my heater blower motor doesn't run. It happened several times last year.

    I live a couple of miles to work and normally I can start the truck and let it warm up a little and before I get to work, the heater is blowing hot air. On these really cold days I have driven for up to 30-45 minutes before the blower will start working. When it does, the air is hot.

    The engine is up to temp but it seems dependent on cabin temp and not engine compartment or engine temp.

    I've mentioned it to people. One suggested that I had an air pocket in my coolant and I pulled the radiator cap and let it run for a while to see if the bubble would come out and the coolant level change. No change.

    Any Ideas? Thanks
  • a9x2a9x2 Member Posts: 25
    Radiator bubble...? LOL Try banging your fist around under the passenger side of the dash. My blower stopped working and I needed a new blower motor--this made it click on until I had it replaced.
  • massmusclecarmassmusclecar Member Posts: 18
    Late year and again this year I have had an intermittent prob with my blower motor. It seems when it is cold and it is on a lower speed I get this bearing whinging noise but it seems to go away when I put the speed up or it warms up a bit so i assume after 10 years it is getting tired. I also wondered if something/debris might be in the blower motor cage. noise tends to go away so have not had the time to check under the dash and see how hard it is to replace the motor. anyway have an idea? cant be any worse than what we did to replace the motor in a late model camry. whole dash had to be taken apart to get at the heater box and motor. full day job and it was not pretty.
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    I replaced mine on my 02 Axiom for the exact same reason you describe. It was making the same noise... easy to do, easy to access, too. Just remove the connector and take out 3 or 4 screws and it comes right out.

    I did find some leaves and debris in the squirrel cage when I replaced the heater blower motor with a new one, so in retrospect, if I had it to do over, I would remove (drop) the motor, clean out the debris, and lubricate it with WD40 or similar product, and see if it works WITHOUT replacing it. If it doesn't fix it, you can always buy a new motor. I got mine on Ebay from a wholesaler, as I recall for less than $50.
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    edited November 2011
    Hey Arkyax: Looking at the Workshop (Service) Manual for the '02 Axiom, I can see in the wiring diagram that electrically upstream of the blower motor, there is first a heater control relay, followed by two 15A fuses that feed power to the blower motor. There is no T'stat switch, per se, but the other side of the motor control is tied to the Auto A/C control unit (PCU) that does have inputs from three temp sensors - a duct sensor, an ambient air sensor, and an in-car sensor, which show up on the wiring diagram as some type of thermistor or other resistive temperature sensor or element. Two of them are stand-alone and appear to be easily replaced if defective - the duct sensor and the ambient sensor. The in-car sensor is shown as being part and parcel of (an integral part of) the intake actuator. There are three actuators, too - think of them like dampers - an intake actuator, a mix actuator and a mode actuator. This later one routes air to the floor vent or dash vent and so on.

    So, I hope the problem that you are having is either a problem with the motor bearing lubricant, which can be easily fixed for $50 by replacing the blower motor, and is not related to the temp sensors, or the Auto A/C PCU. One test you could try, since it would not be hard to do, is to wait for a cold evening, remove the blower motor, take it inside where it's warm, then bring it out in the morning when it's cold and reinstall it and test it. This would isolate the problem to the blower motor and its bearings, which by now are probably getting old. If it is the blower motor it is REALLY EASY TO REPLACE, as described in my previous posting. Check eBay to see if the fellow I bought mine from is still selling new OEM Isuzu blower motors for $50 or so, if you opt to replace it, as I think the motor is about $100 from a dealer.

    Hope that helps.
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Member Posts: 71
    I'd pull out the motor (not too hard to do) and try to lubricate it. Use 3in1 oil or a bit heavier not WD40 as it's not really a lubricant and will evaporate quickly. While in there blow/vacuum out the duct work and you might get a few more years out of it.

    Regards
    Bert
  • arkyaxarkyax Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Everyone for the quick response.
    I have taken the motor out to see if something was stuck in the squirrel cage and found nothing holding the motor. I vacuumed out the crap that was in the duct work just because I was in there. It was cold out and I gave the motor a twirl and it spun like a top. So I don't think it's a lub problem.

    I DIDN'T know that there were 3 sensors in the circuit, a duct sensor, an ambient air sensor, and an in-car sensor. I felt that it was electrical all along because the blower would not spin at all and then all of a sudden it would work once the cabin temp got a little warmer.
    It's now 50° to 60° and it works perfectly. I'll check into replacing the duct and ambient air sensors before it gets too cold out.

    Thanks again.
  • massmusclecarmassmusclecar Member Posts: 18
    Thanks for the info. sounds like it is easy to get at the motor. I will take it out and clean it like you and others mentioned. new ones are available at rock auto for 39 bucks so that is dam reasonable.
    regards. Kent
  • a9x2a9x2 Member Posts: 25
    Was browsing through the manual and it says you can go 7500miles per oil change. Does anyone wait that long? I go every 3k and even so there is NO oil on the dip stick. I was wandering if it would be okay to prolong oil changes and just add some 10w-30 every now and then...?
  • massmusclecarmassmusclecar Member Posts: 18
    I have always changed the oil in my rodeo-now 100k and axiom 76K every 4-5k miles at the most or 4-5 months max. I use 10w30 Conv. or high mileage oil. with the conventional oil I mix it- I use 4 qts of conv oil and a quart or so of the synthetic. I am usually down about 3/4 of a quart between oil changes so rather than add oil I change it. In the late fall and over the winter I use 5w-30 oil for easier starts up here in the north-though that will use a little more oil. I use a qualtiy filter , preferably Isuzu one.
    From experience and what I have heard, even if there is just a bit of oil on the dipstick, and it looks like it is terribly low, 1 quart will usually fill it up to the full line. Be sure you have changed the PCV valve at least every 30k miles. the maintenance manual does not mention when to change it, it but a clogged pcv valve will cause the engine to burn more oil so change. It is easy, it screws into the top of the left side valve cover. right side as you face the motor. the top plastic covering comes off the 4 rubber grommets holding to the studs. be sure you work the cover off easily, the grommets can fall out. ( they look like a well nut but without the metal nut inside. I lightly tape the rubber grommets to the cover they do not fall out when the cover is put back. Be aware of parts books that list and incorrect pcv valve. earlier Isuzu have a plastic push in pcv valve, but later ones, post 2001 I think they use a metal screw in one. I think all Axioms had the metal screw in one. Still easy to do.
    Regards.
    Ken
  • walk_the_walk2walk_the_walk2 Member Posts: 140
    I always used fully synthetic oil and the best after-market oil filter I could find at the local parts store. While the oil may cost you a bit more, you can go 5-6 K miles between oil changes, rather than 3K per change. 7500 is pushing it a bit in my opinion. I traded in at 120K miles, and NEVER had a problem with oil consumption or with the engine. I use synthetic oil on our 07 Prius and on our 2011 Honda Pilot, too. It's worth it in my opinion.
  • a9x2a9x2 Member Posts: 25
    Thats interesting... I will have to mention that PCV valve when I go in for service. My car idles like a diesel when the oil is low. Is this what you are referring to?

    http://tinyurl.com/7n6rgna
  • a9x2a9x2 Member Posts: 25
    I was contemplating switching to synthetic but I was worried that the car would need the thicker oil or it might leak and cause more problems. AND, I have my car dealer serviced......synthetic oil changes are $100+ :surprise: Though if I can go twice as long--it wouldn't be soo much more expensive. Would I still have high oil consumption with synthetic? BTW, I have 165k on the odo :grin:
  • massmusclecarmassmusclecar Member Posts: 18
    I don't know if that would be the cause, but low engine oil level is never good. the pcv valve has vacuum to it and when plugged up def will cause oil consumption. We know that for a fact on these engines. it is so easy to change. take off the top plastic cover as I mentioned and you see the hose coming to the top of it from the right side as you look at the engine. it screws in tot he valve cover. the new one will have some lock tite on the threads.
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