Isuzu Axiom Maintenance and Repair

massmusclecar · November 2011

You must be doing many things right to have 165K on your car or any car. use the correct weight oil 10-30 in summer and i use 5-30 in winter here in the northeast. Use the high mileage oils as they don't cost that much more than conv and are part synthetic. I have no leaks under my 76k 2002 axiom at all. anywhere.
myths about synthetic is that it is thinner and will cause leaks is not true. Synthetic oil is real oil that had just been processed and refined more so the molecules are smaller and more equal is size than conventional oil. they are all oil products. Toyota now is using 0w-20 in most of its new cars with a 1 year-or 10k change interval. not that I would go that far. 4-5K in 4 months to me is a good compromise for my high mileage or conv oils. so far so good for me. But if you use conv oil every 3k then that is all great too. You can't change it too much,,, well you can wear out the oil drain plug hole. be sure to use a new copper gasket each time btw.

isuzu_addict · April 2012

Man... it looks to me like the evap solenoid problem... low speed, no power traction... it is safe mode driving condition.

Your mechanic is the shhh.... Make an electronic check and discard code by code. Download the isuzu repairing manual.

This vehicle is full electronic and has a very sophisticated control system in powertrain, suspension, transmission... any electronic code related to powertrain or transmission would produce check engine signal on and after 3 times not cleaned... will put the suv in a fool proof mode.

dschubach · June 2012

I have a 2002 Rodeo and it now needs new rear shocks. It has the same active ride system and I would like to disconnect it just like you did with your Axiom. I can't find any information on it in the repair manuals and was wondering if you think that it would be similar to the same steps you took to disable your Axiom?

walk_the_walk2 · June 2012

Dear Dshubach: That's hard to say without doing some research on the Isuzu part number for BOTH vehicles, and I do not have the Service Manual for the Rodeo to know the Rodeo part numbers. However, doing a quick search on Google for your vehicle, I see lots of aftermarket listings for Monroe, Bilstein and KYB shocks for both front and rear. Contrast that with the Axiom, where NO manufacturer listed ANY replacement units for my vehicle, and when I called Monroe Tech Support, they could only guess which model might work based on the shaft length, as they had no cross reference either (although I did my best to inspire them to look into this further).

My guess is that it's an even easier swap on your vehicle than the Axiom. And, if your Rodeo has the ISC system built in to it, the fuse, connectors and electronic dampeners can all be removed in a similar fashion. It's been a while, but I recall that the process was reversible, if I wanted to buy OEM shocks, but I was quite satisfied without the ISC, and the ride was much better. Bert also converted his Axiom (now for sale) and reported being similarly satisfied.

I hope that info is helpful to you. But do your own due diligence on this. I am sure if you are able to do the swap, you'll like the ride better.

massmusclecar · June 2012

The replacement aftermarket parts for the Rodeo and Axiom are the same. They are readlily available from rock auto, advance or wherever.
economy...MONROE Part # 32336 Monro-Matic Plus Shock Absorber
w/o Active Ride Control; Front/ 32337 rear. 16 bucks

or OEM ride quality MONROE Part # 37159 OESpectrum Light Truck Shock Absorber
w/o Active Ride Control; Front/ 37160 rear. $32 bucks

I replaced my 2000 rodeo shocks with new monroes. they were the reg setup. I would assume the mounting locations should be the same. but not sure about a diffence in the mounting hole. Just the shock is different, if it is the Intelligent Suspension Control ISC /active ride system or the standard.
i got my shcoks at sears when they had a sale and they put them on the rodeo. My Axiom ISC shocks still seem ok with 82k. but I guess if you picked one up at the auto store and comparted the mounting to it then you would know. or go the the monroe web site and look for illustrations for the mounting locations.
Let us know. i am wondering why you can not just unplug the harness from the top of the shock, and tie it off somewhere, and unplug a fuse or light bulb from the ISC dash light indicator. I do like the firm ride of the ISC when going around a highway off ramp.
regards.
Kent

walk_the_walk2 · June 2012

Wow. That's a lot of codes! Most are inter-related, though. Thank goodness I own a copy of the 2002 Isuzu Axiom US Version Service Manual. You will also need to get one online someplace if you want to wade through this problem yourself. It's a mess, with a lot of possible scenarios, since there are multiple codes. The good news is that each one is documented in detail in the Service Manual.

One of the codes you provided point to a problem with the Mass Air Flow Sensor. In fact, that code (p0101) indicates that the MAF has possibly failed. Code p0401 indicates that either the EGR valve is dirty or failed or the MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor) has failed.

Code p1125 means "ETC (Electric Throttle Control) Limit Performance Mode", which points to a problem with any of the 3 accelerator position sensors (APS1, APS2 or APS3).

Code p1295 is similar and indicates a problem with "ETC Power Management Mode" which means either there is a problem with the Throttle Valve or the two Throttle Position Sensors (TPS1, TPS2).

DTC code p1515 is similar to 1295 and means "P1515 Command - Actual TPS Correlation Error" and is related to the same circuit above, with the TV and the TPS's.

Now, before you go jump off a bridge, or drive your car off a cliff, be aware that what is common to ALL of these codes is that they are all circuits that feed into the PCM module. The Powertrain Control Module.

So, it could be as simple as any of these problems, with regard to the PCM:

*Poor connections.  Misrouted harness. Rubbed through wire insulation.
 Broken wire inside the insulation.Check for the following conditions:
 Poor connection at PCM-Inspect harness connectors
for backed out terminals, proper mating, locks,
improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection.
 Damaged harness-Inspect the wiring harness for damage."

So, look to see if a mouse or squirrel has gotten into the wiring harness and damaged any of the wiring to the sensors. The RPL light may also be caused by a wiring harness or connection issue. The manuals states this:

"The powertrain control module (PCM) orders the RPL ON signal for Multiplex Control Unit. When Multiplex Control Unit is received RPL ON signal that turn RPL ON by grounding the RPLdriver circuit. The RPL should not remain ON with the engine running and no DTC(s) set. A steady RPL with the engine running and no DTC(s) suggests a short to ground in the RPL driver circuit.

Diagnostic Aids
An intermittent RPL may be caused by a poor connection, rubbed through wire insulation, or a wire broken inside the insulation. Check for the following items:
 Poor connection or damaged harness..."

The PCM has a hand in ALL of the functions related to the codes you provided, so it is suspect. Let's hope it's not the PCM itself, as replacing that is expensive and requires reprogramming by an Isuzu tech, but assuming BEST CASE, there is the possibility that your PCM wiring harness has been dislodged somehow or got wet? Since the PCM is located "located in the passenger compartment below the center console"... did you spill a beer recently?? Did someone try to make out in the passenger side and bump into one of the PCM connectors with their big foot?

Here's the info on the PCM and what it does and where it's located:

************
"Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
The powertrain control module (PCM) is located in the
passenger compartment below the center console. The
PCM controls the following:

 Fuel metering system.
 Transmission shifting (automatic transmission only).
 Ignition timing.
 On-board diagnostics for powertrain functions.

The PCM constantly observes the information from
various sensors. The PCM controls the systems that
affect vehicle performance. The PCM performs the
diagnostic function of the system. It can recognize
operational problems, alert the driver through the MIL
(Check Engine lamp), and store diagnostic trouble codes
(DTCs). DTCs identify the problem areas to aid the
technician in making repairs.

PCM Function
The PCM supplies either 5 or 12 volts to power various
sensors or switches. The power is supplied through
resistances in the PCM which are so high in value that a
test light will not light when connected to the circuit. In
some cases, even an ordinary shop voltmeter will not give
an accurate reading because its resistance is too low.
Therefore, a digital voltmeter with at least 10 megohms
input impedance is required to ensure accurate voltage
readings. Tool J 39200 meets this requirement. The PCM
controls output circuits such as the injectors, fan relays,
etc., by controlling the ground or the power feed circuit
through transistors or through either of the following two
devices:
 Output Driver Module (ODM)
 Quad Driver Module (QDM)
PCM Components
The PCM is designed to maintain exhaust emission levels
to government mandated standards while providing
excellent driveability and fuel efficiency. The PCM
monitors numerous engine and vehicle functions via
electronic sensors such as the throttle position (TP)sensor,
heated oxygen sensor (HO2S), and vehicle
speed sensor (VSS). The PCM also controls certain
engine operations through the following:

 Fuel injector control
 Ignition control module
 ION sensing module
 Automatic transmission shift functions
 Cruise control
 Evaporative emission (EVAP) purge
 A/C clutch control
PCM Voltage Description
The PCM supplies a buffered voltage to various switches
and sensors. It can do this because resistance in the
PCM is so high in value that a test light may not illuminate
when connected to the circuit. An ordinary shop
voltmeter may not give an accurate reading because the
voltmeter input impedance is too low. Use a 10-megohm
input impedance digital voltmeter (such as J 39200) to
assure accurate voltage readings.
The input/output devices in the PCM include
analog-to-digital converters, signal buffers, counters,
and special drivers. The PCM controls most components
with electronic switches which complete a ground circuit
when turned ON. These switches are arranged in
groups of 4 and 7, called either a surface-mounted quad
driver module (QDM), which can independently control up
to 4 output terminals, or QDMs which can independently
control up to 7 outputs. Not all outputs are always used.

PCM Service Precautions
The PCM is designed to withstand normal current draws
associated with vehicle operation. Avoid overloading any
circuit. When testing for opens and shorts, do not ground
or apply voltage to any of the PCMs circuits unless
instructed to do so. These circuits should only be tested
using digital voltmeter J 39200. The PCM should remain
connected to the PCM or to a recommended breakout
box."

**********

And there is an illustrations, too, of the PCM. It has two gigantic side-by-side...

walk_the_walk2 · June 2012

connectors feeding into it from one side. It is a metallic box with aluminum looking heat sinks on it. Should be easy to find.

Anyway, good luck with this problem. I hope it is not the PCM itself and you can find something obvious, but I myself would not hesitate to take this to someone who is VERY SKILLED in dealing with PCMS if there isn't an obvious problem found by visual inspection.

And, there is the possibility that any one sensor has gone bad and is pulling down the power supply section of the PCM and causing ALL of the other readings. You see this sometimes, too, but fixing that kind of problem can be a hit-and-miss shotgun approach, where you replace one sensor after another, which is difficult and expensive for the DIY home repairer.

Hope this is helpful.

decababy · June 2012

thanks alot for the information given. You and this message board are life savers. and i will give you the updated information once my problem is fixed. Thanks again.

lbrownstein · June 2012

Hello, my 2004 Axiom shuts off when I deccelerate too fast or occassionaly when turning. Also, the clock and compass are no longer working. When the car shuts off it completely dies. All electrical and engine activities stop. When it happens, I wait for a moment and then restart the car. So far, no problems after starting again and it drives fine. There are no indicator lights on. Does anyone know what could be the problem?

Thank you,

Lori

kyfdx · June 2012

Sounds like the battery may be loose... and, when it shifts, it loses ground and shorts out?

billr9 · July 2012

Anyone familiar with this? We bought this car for my daughter and it did this a few times while parked (Once at the dealership! Lucky for us because they are backing there commitment to fix or take the car back) but this time it happened while she was driving. Had just got off the interstate (1 1/2 hour drive) and down the road about 3 miles and it died while going around a slight corner! The Dealership we bought it from could not find the problem, sent it to another and supposedly going to a third mechanic who specializes in Isuzu's.

bertbcfm · August 2012

2002 Axiom, 125K, rusted frame, Check engine light on, needed new muffler, front differential noisy, Tires 40%, hole cut it rear deck to free up spare tire lowering mechanism, Oxy sensors shot, All disclosed.

$2300 on Craig's list 16 calls sold that same day. Kinda glad it's gone.

Been real nice talking to all of you Axiom people over the years.

Got a 2012 Ford Super Duty diesel. Off to check their forum.

Best Regards
Bert

socalsteve · September 2012

Sorry, I don't check here often anymore. I've had this happen a couple times. One fix was easy, one wasn't.
The first time, my mechanic cleaned the throttle body. I want to say he charged me $50 or something. Fixed it right up.
The second time I had stalling issues, the check engine light was on. It turned out to be the high-pressure fuel pump (unique to '04 model). That was $1700.

massmusclecar · September 2012

You might check the main wire harness where it goes from the top of the engine left side ( right as you look at itfrom under the hood). the harness sort of goes under neath the area of the left side intake manifold and when the wire get brittle you can rev the engine and as it moves it on the mounts can cause the engine to die out or even shaking the harness can cause the same thing. The wires in that portion of the loom are very hard and tite with minimal room for normal flexing. I know it has happened to some of them as they age and also rodeo models. The wires are so small that they break and trying to isolate and replace the individual wires is rarely successful. Easier to get a new harness. grabbing the wire harness and moving it may help to isolate it if it dies.
An issue I am having on my 2002 with 85k
I get a bit of hesitation on when I really give it the accelerator up a hill or highway passing. Have not pulled or changed plugs. never had a check engine light come on. wonder if plugs or the coils. I recall the Isuzu tech saying to take off the large air hose to the throttle body and clean it out and to also brush out one of the passages there. They mentioned a particular size of brush to use to clean that out, like a gun barrel cleaning brush. anyone have any details on this, do you have to take the throttle body apart of just the big hose that goes to it. thanks. Is there any mystery to changing the plugs myself. Have done it on regular engines but never a SOHC motor. Is there some seal the the plug goes through? thanks. Ken

rdw0372 · September 2012

Does anyone know of a good mechanic/shop in the Sacramento area? The check Transmission light comes on but only only in the afternoon or after about an hour or so of driving. I took it to my nornal mechanic but no codes come up when he checks with his machine. I took it to a transmission specalist, he said it was the solenoid shifter. The transmisson man replaced the shifter, the same problem started the next day. I took it to AAMCO, same result no codes came up on the machine. Like I said, it drives fine in the day (when it's cool) but in the afternoon that light comes on. It does shift hard from second to third when the light comes on but runs fine in cool weather.

lovemyax · September 2012

I'm not sure anyone can help me. No one else seems to be able to help. I love my 2003 Axiom and would love to be driving it again. It has been sitting in my driveway for 8 months now, with no one any closer to fixing it. The problem is when I let off the gas it dies. The check engine light is on and sometimes low power light comes on. We've had it hooked up several times to determine the problem and have replaced everything it said was bad. O2 censor, mass air flow censor and throttle position censor. Still no change. My brother in law said it needed a new computer, so he ordered me one. We put it on but it wouldn't turn over. Excuse me, I should specify that it's a used computer.

Yesterday we put the old computer back on and drove it to a mechanic who said he could flash the computer to the car. Wrong. They also couldn't seem to figure out what is wrong with the car. Meanwhile my husband thinks the problem is the key. It's broken and keeps falling apart. I ordered a new one but it won't be in for a few days but my first question is, do you think the key would make the car run bad like this? My thoughts is it wouldn't even start if that was the issue.

Apparently there are not many mechanics who are willing to even work on my car. Any sugguestions?

Oh and I should mention, the fuel pump was checked, the wiring harness was checked and the intake was checked.

axiom068 · September 2012

Unfortunately in these situations you have to find a mechanic with a Tech 2 scanner with the Isuzu card. You have to look hard but hopefully you'll find one. If you don't mind paying dealer prices, go to isuzu.com and put your zip code in under the owners section and hopefully area dealers that are still doing maintence on isuzu's will pop up. Good Luck.

axiom068 · September 2012

There are 3 basic things a car needs to run Fuel, air, and spark. I would suggest to perform a compression test on all cylinders, check all vaccum lines with a smoke machine (while you're at it check the EVAP system also), and check the spark on the spark plugs. If all else fails it could be a timing problem or a busted head gasket. In order to truly find out what's going on I suggest finding a mechanic with a Tech 2 scanner with the isuzu card. IF you place your zip code in the owners section of Isuzu.com hopefully they'll be dealers close to you that have the right equipment. The way you are going about this situation is very costly when an hour's diagnostic fee at the dealership is probably all it needs to find the problem. I have personally taken the car to the dealers and had the diagnostics done and then taken the car out and fix it myself. It cheaper than buying a Tech 2 scanner. If you find a mechanic that uses anything other than the Tech 2 scanner with isuzu card, he would most probably only give you just the simple OBDII codes and you won't be able to see the whole picture of the vehicle. Also tell your husband the key is definitely not the issue. In addition I believe the new computer must be synced up with the car and with that you will need the Tech 2 scanner.

walk_the_walk2 · September 2012

I'll try to help. Still have my 2002 Axiom Service Manual (the complete service manual), which may shed some light on your tranny light problem. I will paste excerpts that are related, and then you can figure out which one applies. First thought is that your tranny is getting too hot, and I know that the tranny is cooled by the tranny line from the radiator, so maybe your radiator is not doing its job, or that line is plugged? A new radiator costs $100 uninstalled. If that turns out to be the problem - replace the tranny fluid with synthetic fluid, too, which you should have done at the 40K mark and at the 60K mark, but the manual is not clear on those points.

A KEY POINT is whether the Tranny light comes on and STAYS on or is FLASHING:

Here are the excerpts that may apply:

"ATF Warning Lamp
The ATF warning lamp will be constantly on (not flashing)
if the transmission oil temperature is above 145C (293F)."

"When the CHECK TRANS indicator is flashing, it
indicates that a problem related to the transmission, the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), or the vehicle harness
has occurred.
The system is now operating in a BACKUP MODE
where the risk of further damaging the transmission has
been reduced. The vehicle may be shifted manually.
If the initial problem is intermittent or seldom, switching
the engine OFF/ON might allow normal operation again
until the problem reoccurs.

If, during the test drive, the CHECK TRANS lamp
comes on, use the scan tool to check for trouble
codes."

What this means is TRANNY LIGHT COMES ON STEADY (Good - tranny is too hot), and Tranny Light is FLASHING (Bad - you got problems... time to trade in your vehicle because no one works on these anymore!)

NOTE: some auto parts stores carry a scanner you can borrow to check for DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes). This info can be used to further diagnose your problem IF THERE IS A CODE BEING GENERATED.

If it is just the Tranny light coming on (not flashing), it sounds to me that the tranny is getting too hot. If you pull over and shut off the car for 20 minutes and restart, does the light go out? If so, you may have found the root cause and it may be 1)poor quality tranny fluid or low tranny fluid, and/or 2) a radiator that is no longer cooling your transmission.

Repeated overheating of your transmission will lead to premature failure. So will not changing the tranny fluid, but this is Isuzu's fault for stating that there is no need to do this, in both the owners manual and the service manual.

The 4L30E transmission is actually a good one, so if you can find a qualified tranny mechanic who knows how to work on a 4L30E, you are in luck.

walk_the_walk2 · September 2012

Stalling... and stalling after the vehicle has started, (at idle) not while trying to start it. Hmmm....

My first thought was plugged main fuel filter (there is a large one at the back of the vehicle on the rear drivers side underneath the car, near the left rear wheel - it is a metal canister type filter located near the gas tank and if not already replaced, should be replaced...

The full Isuzu Axiom service Manual has THREE mentions of stalling...

FIRST, it mentions EGR flow. Look below where it states this (please read to the bottom where "too much EGR flow" is mentioned):

"Linear EGR Valve
The main element of the system is the linear EGR valve.

The EGR valve feeds small amounts of exhaust gas back
into the combustion chamber. The fuel/air mixture will be
diluted and combustion temperatures reduced.

Linear EGR Control
The PCM monitors the EGR actual positron and adjusts
the pintle position accordingly. The uses information from
the following sensors to control the pintle position:
 Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor.
 Throttle position (TP) sensor.
 Mass air flow (MAF) sensor.

Linear EGR Valve Operation and Results of Incorrect Operation
The linear EGR valve is designed to accurately supply
EGR to the engine independent of intake manifold
vacuum. The valve controls EGR flow from the exhaust
to the intake manifold through an orifice with a PCM
controlled pintle. During operation, the PCM controls
pintle position by monitoring the pintle position feedback
signal. The feedback signal can be monitored with a Tech
2 as Actual EGR Pos. Actual EGR Pos. should always
be near the commanded EGR position (Desired EGR
Pos.). If a problem with the EGR system will not allow the
PCM to control the pintle position properly, DTC P1406
will set. The PCM also tests for EGR flow. If incorrect flow
is detected, DTC P0401 will set. If DTCs P0401 and/or
P1406 are set, refer to the DTC charts.

The linear EGR valve is usually activated under the
following conditions:
 Warm engine operation.
 Above-idle speed.

Too much EGR flow at idle, cruise or cold operation may
cause any of the following conditions to occur:
 * Engine stalls after a cold start.
* Engine stalls at idle after deceleration.
* Vehicle surges during cruise.
*  Rough idle.
 * DTC P0300 (misfire detected)."

Now, these Diagnostic Trouble Codes should be detectable. You can borrow a scanner at your local AutoZone or Advanced Auto or NAPA parts store, and plug it in and check for a code, if you can get there without getting stranded.

You can also buy an after market fuel filter for about $25.

The manual also mentions that this problem could be caused by a plugged up PCV valve, which is an INEXPENSIVE and EASY part to replace.

Note what it says:

"A plugged valve or PCV hose may cause the following
conditions:
 Rough idle.
 Stalling at slow idle speed.
 Oil leaks.
 Sludge in the engine.
A leaking PCV hose would cause:
 Rough idle.
 Stalling.
 High idle speed."

******
LAST BUT NOT LEAST, THE THIRD STALLING CAUSE can be the EVAP canister:

"EVAP Emission Control System Operation
The EVAP canister purge is controlled by a solenoid valve
that allows the manifold vacuum to purge the canister.
The powertrain control module (PCM) supplies a ground
to energize the solenoid valve (purge on). The EVAP
purge solenoid control is pulse-width modulated (PWM)
(turned on and off several times a second). The duty
cycle (pulse width) is determined by engine operating
conditions including load, throttle positron, coolant
temperature and ambient temperature. The duty cycle is
calculated by the PCM. The output is commanded when
the appropriate conditions have been met. These
conditions are:

 The engine is fully warmed up.
 The engine has been running for a specified time.
 The IAT reading is above 10C (50F).

A continuous purge condition with no purge commanded
by the PCM will set a DTC P1441.

Poor idle, stalling and poor driveability can be caused by:
 A malfunctioning purge solenoid.
 A damaged canister.
 Hoses that are split, cracked, or not connected
properly."

************

BOTTOM LINE: This is a fixable problem... you just need to find a good mechanic, and stop using your brother in law, and that other bozo you mentioned. Ask around. There are great mechanics in every town. This is probably a simple problem that could be bad fuel filter, bad PCV valve, bad plugs, or a problem with the EGR valve, Evap cannister, OR SOME COMBINATION OF THE ABOVE, but all are easily replaced. This is FIXABLE.

I hope this helps

Also, if you can get the DTC codes out of your Axiom, post back here and I can look them up in the Axiom Service Manual.

walk_the_walk2 · September 2012

I go to a specialty mechanic in my town, but twice I have used local Firestone auto repair stores with great success. So, if there is not a good mechanic in your area, that is one possibility. Again, ask around.

emryss · November 2014

I recently had a problem with my Axiom 2003. it suddenly stopped working and wouldn't even crank. Can someone please help me.

stever · November 2014

We have a "generic" no start discussion; lots of posts to plow through but you may want to skim it for ideas while waiting for posts in here. Or try Edmunds Answers.

More details would help - mileage? Does it click when you try to start it? Was it parked overnight when it stopped working or did it stall driving down the road?

Mr_Shiftright · November 2014

If it doesn't even crank, but your dash warning lights go on, the general order of checking things out would be:

1. Make sure your security light isn't on
2. Check battery connections and battery condition (or jump start)
3. Check to see if there is voltage going to your starter solenoid when you turn the key to "start"
4. Try starting in neutral position and/or check the neutral safety switch.

fendlay · March 2015

I have a 04 Isuzu Axiom. I bought this vehicle at 81,000 miles and I now have 151,000 miles on it. It has treated me well until now. I am showing 3 codes for check engine light. P300,P306, and P356.
We know that P300, and P306 are cylinder misfire/random cylinder misfire. The P356 is an Ignition Sensing Module Circuit 6 Malfunction. This is what we found out. We test the wires going to coil 6 and the green/red wire going from the coil plug to the PCM has nothing there. But when we match the wire that went from the coil to the PCM, the wire on the coil side is green/red, and the wire that we followed it from the coil to the PCM, the wire on the PCM side is yellow. I have a full car electrical schematic and it says the green/red wire runs straight to the PCM and the schematic states the whole wire is green/red???. Does the wire change? Doesn't really matter to me because I have to replace that one wire on that plug.

Has anyone have this similar problem or am I pretty much on the ball. Mechanic and I are going to run an outside wire and see what happens?

Isuzu Axiom Maintenance and Repair

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