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I wouldn’t have any problem in changing the filter every time that I change the oil, however the oil filter is in an awful location and it is not easy to remove. The worst thing is the spilling of oil from the filter onto the starter motor which is very close to the filter location. Frequent and careless changes of the oil filter will eventually shorten the life of the starter motor. Oil spilled from the filter cannot be avoided in many situations. My advice in this situation could be to keep the OEM Japanese filter as long as possible (15,000 miles or 20,000 miles) and after then use the American sub-standard filter every 7,500 miles with each change of oil with special care about spilling oil on the starter motor. I use synthetic motor oil 5W-20 and 7,500 or 8,500 miles is just fine for a routine change of oil for my Outlander.
Difficult?
3 little screws hold the door panel then you can gently pull the panel to unsnap. Disconnect electrical. remove whether shield. and found that the cable had frayed. unbolted regulator and removed it.
Wish you well God Bless Scott
...They cost $2 each at Mitsu parts...
Thanks.
They haven't come off yet.
I have changed the oil filter on my Outlander twice. The vehicle has 24K miles. The Japanese filter was changed at 15K miles and I used the oil filter sold by American dealers at 22K miles. The second time I changed the oil filter it appeared to me that in order to have the filter out I had to turn the filter clockwise. This happens because it appeared that if I was turning the filter anti-clockwise I was tightening it more. Is this the way how the oil filter in a Mitsubishi Outlander has to be operated or is it just a mental mix up on my side. The norm is that turning clockwise tightens and anti-clockwise loosens. Could someone with oil filter experience taken me out from this confusion? I could do it the hard way, i.e. lifting the car and manipulate the filter by myself.
Thanks.
I'm planning on buying a 2007 Outlander that was originally purchased outside of California. The label under the hood states it only meets federal emissions standards.
1) Since this is a relatively new car, do you think it can pass California standards? If not, is it difficult to convert the car to the stricter standards?
2) I'm curious why Mitsubishi created two different cars (Cali ones having fewer hp's). Is the non-cali car a big polluter?
Thanks.
Mitsubishi Motors North America, Inc.
PO Box 6014
Cypress, CA 90630-0014 1-888-MITSU2009
Has any member done a spark plug replacement on their own?
Did you have any problems?
The car is running OK and I get great gas mileage but I always like to change plugs every 30K.
Taking off the plastic cover I see each plug has its own coil that sits on top and the plugs are in a deep well. The rear plugs don't look like they are easy to get to ( I can't see them from the top of the engine). Someday soon I'll get ambitious enough to remove a plug to see if they are indeed iridium or not (sure hope so) ;-) But I'm still under 20K miles so I'm not motivated to go further yet.
Any comments?
BTW:I also found the cause of an annoying rattle while under the car with it running. There was a small heat shield around the pipe before the catalyst about to fall off and I easily broke the last fragment of metal holding it with a bend of my hand (now off and quiet) Doesn't bode well for the exhaust: The car isn't 2 yrs old or 20K yet and that shield is toast!
If the heat shield as you said has been detached you ought to buy a new one and install it yourself. The shield is there for a purpose not just as an ornament.
The piece of heat shield on the pipe didn't look like it did much. Not like a shield on the catalytic converter. The shield didn't have much of an air gap to the pipe (it was spot welded to the pipe, not separated from it like most other heat shields) ad there is plenty shielding the car from heat on the floorboard. The shield seemed to resonate at low rpm and was most noticeable just above engine idle (like creeping in stop and go traffic and then it would go away once above that rpm. I was curious if the bumper to bumper covers it. If so, I might have them do something, but otherwise
as I said, it doesn't do much.
Thank you
PS-My initial thought was that it was related to tire pressure but everything in that department is under control.
(you would have been long done)and your pump and battery will appreciate a breather.
I have a 2003 Outlander and the heat/cooling switch on the dashboard has become partially frozen. It feels like the vent behind the panel is partially stuck- almost like it needs lubrication.
Does anyone have an idea how to check/fix this?
Thanks,
Cold in Austin Texas
The cooling/heating vent on my outlander is stuck so that it won't switch to "heat".
I've taken off the actual control knob to make certain it hasn't worn down and it's ok.
I'm afraid that I'll have to take of some form of panel to get the vent lubricated or unstuck...and- I have no idea how to do that-any sources you can recommend?
Thanks
Did you have any luck, it's getting pretty cold here in New England.
Thanks
Thanks
Cigarpro
The problem sounds repairable so I would continue with the dealer and let them resolve it. If they cannot fix it to your satisfaction or if it is taking too many visits, escalate to the regional manager or take it to another dealer.
My '10 GT is now about 6 weeks old and has 1200 miles. 0 problems so far. I just had the towing kit & remote start installed the other day.