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What Are A Consumer's Rights If The Manufacturer Does Not Meet Its Duty To Repair?
If the problem is not repaired after a reasonable number of attempts, or the manufacturer or the dealer refuses to commence repairs within 20 days from the manufacturer's receipt of the "refusal to repair" notice from the consumer, and if the problem substantially impairs the value of the car to the consumer, the manufacturer, at the consumer's option, must either refund the full purchase or lease price, or offer a comparable replacement car.
Does The Law Specify The Number Of Required Repair Attempts?
It is presumed that there have been a reasonable number of attempts to repair a problem if, during the first 18,000 miles of operation or two years from the original delivery date, whichever comes first, either: (1) the same problem has been subject to repair four or more times and the problem continues to exist; or (2) the car is out of service by reason of repair of one or more problems for a cumulative total of 30 or more calendar days and the problem continues to exist.
Thanks everyone for the feedback.
Cigarpro
It will do to warm up/cool down the car from a distance (up to 300 yards supposedly) but I would have preferred better integration, namely not having to restart and not having a second fob even if it is very small.
Cigarpro
I've been reading how some Toyota owners are wanting to ditch their vehicles and are swearing off the brand. That seems unreasonable or at least premature to me. As long as problems are found & fixed I'll try to give them the benefit of the doubt when something happens.
Cars have literally thousands of parts and IMO building a perfect car just isn't possible. It's how the dealer & maker react when a problem occurs that matters.
I took my car (due to the cold weather I didn’t want to do it myself) for an oil change and it was done without the use of any torque wrench to adjust the parts. These technician mechanics can damage your car if they over tighten your aluminum oil container.
If it is not damaged the first time it is most probable that your car will be leaking oil in the next few years.
Where I absolutely use a torque wrench and want the shop to use one is tightening wheel lug nuts so they don't warp the rotors . I've seen too many use the impact wrench (and I'm not talking with a real low limit set just to spin 'em on quick followed by a torque wrench to finish) I personally have never had problems with my filters or oil plugs in over 30 yrs doing it myself. I do use the torque wrench on all other engine bolts, it's just I feel I've got a good feel on that one, but yes, when it doubt use the torque wrench. I would rather I do the work myself whenever possible than trust the quick lube tech does what they are supposed to, but sometimes you have no choice. The one time I did see a problem on an oil filter is when I didn't install it and my stepdaughter had previously used a quick lube place and I found lots of oil over the engine around the filter (too loose) I got there in time to change it (spun off pretty easy) and told her to always get in the habit to look in the driveway for obvious leaks in the future. Sometimes I swear those techs that get paid min wage are preoccupied waiting for the next cigarette break. ("now where was I'?, Yeah, I think I tightened it before break.".. :sick:
Thanks!
I'm not sure if Mitsu engines are interference designs or not, but either way I would say do the maintenance & replace things on schedule. Keeping a vehicle in top operating condition will net you the best fuel economy and fewest headaches in the long run.
Gates says the engine is an interference one, so things go boom when the timing belt breaks.
How To Replace 2003, 2004, 2005 & 2006 Mitsubishi Outlander Cabin Air Filter
I don't know if the non-dealer shops (Merlin's, Meineke, Midas, Car-X, etc.) do the same thing or not.
You can always simply say you want only what the manufacturer recommends. You have the manual; it has a maintenance section so you can look up for yourself what Mitsu requires.
Price-wise, I've not found the price differences to be all that great. Dealer labor rates are higher, but you're talking by maybe $25 an hour or so. I don't have a problem paying a little more for mechanics/"technicians" who were factory trained. They're far more likely to know the idiosyncrasies of your particular vehicle v. a mechanic who works on everything from Audis to Volvos.
I've also had good luck at my dealer; I brought my car there for everything (oil changes, etc.) and they would sometimes just give me 10% off the bill. I never asked for it; they just extended the offer. Oil chances were maybe a buck or two more than the 10 minute places but I don't trust those joints at all. And the dealer is always willing to shuttle me somewhere (loaners for overnight) if I can't stay for the duration.
And yeah, the dealer will try to get you do more stuff - most service writers work on commission.
Has anyone with an 07 Outtie had this new switch installed? How were you notified? thanx
Every 15K for standard plugs
60K for platinum plugs
and 105K for iridium plugs.
As soon as it's warm I'll pull a plug and see which I got (bet it's iridium as briefly mentioned in the owners manual, but we'll see). I got a NYS PZEV version BTW.
You know it makes sense to replace with iridium if not originally installed considering the difficulty getting to the rear plugs
My dealer says 30,000. He says that Mitsu turned down repairs when the 30,000 mile service wasn't done. My maintenace manual does not indicate at 30,000 but at 60,000. Is dealer trying to build a bill? Confused in Missouri.
I finally got around to doing a partial drain and fill on my minivan around 120,000 miles. Transmission fluid isn't like motor oil and doesn't "wear out" like motor oil.
And, unlike motor oil that's supposed to get dark and "dirty" almost as soon as you pour it in, you can discover problems with transmission fluid by looking at it and smelling it and doing a blot test. That's what an inspection is supposed to cover.
I think the dealer may be trying to pad the bill. You could send the dealer a letter saying that your understanding is that the dealer thinks the factory fluid change recommendation is wrong and ask him to verify what they told you in writing. And cc Mitsubishi. I'd be curious to see if you get a response. :shades:
So is this this just blind incompetence on their part, or an outright scam hoping I'm ignorant of the existing factory warranty and they hope to sell me something that me and all new Mitsu owners get automatically for free?!!
Not once in the letter do they point out that the standard US factory warranty is 10 yrs/100K miles power train and 5 yrs/ 60K bumper to bumper with free roadside assistance, so I really can't believe they are selling something that covers an additional 100K miles, etc. on top of that :confuse:
And of course to use their words "due to the urgent nature of this program we can make this offer available for a limited time only"
For all of the above reasons, it is a smart idea to change the tranny fluid at the 30K mile threshold, and have it done at a pro shop where you can get SYNTHETIC TRANNY FLUID added instead of regular grade. It costs a little more, but in the long run, if you plan to keep your vehicle, when the warranty runs out, your tranny won't be ready to fail on you...
Too many Isuzu owners only read the owner's manual, never changed their fluid and had premature tranny failures, some of which were not covered under the warranty.
Better safe than sorry is my opinion.
I would suggest replacing the battery before it fails. Not only will you be safeguarding against failure in a remote area, you'll simply feel more confident & comfortable about your car's reliability & ability to get you where you want to go. The psychological effect shouldn't be dismissed; until you replace the battery there will continue to be a subtle stress point.
Also, I would trust the advice/requirements of the manufacturer over anyone who posts on an internet forum (including myself). They designed the vehicle and designed the maintenance intervals to keep the vehicle running in top condition. BTW I'd also trust the advice of the manufacturer over that of the dealer or other service department; those who provide service have a profit motive that lies in contradiction to the consumer's wallet. So tell the dealer or other service place to do only what Mitsu recommends. They'll still tell you if anything else needs servicing but should omit the add-on service items that are profitable to them but don't really do much towards your car's maintenance.
If you do decide to get the trans fluid changed, feel free to call around; by law you don't have to have service performed at a dealer to maintain warranty coverage.
They're fixing mine Wednesday.
I noticed my muffler outer shell is now delaminating. As toomanyfumes pointed out you could get this fixed under warranty. (I may eventually do this for my muffler before the 5yr/60K bumper to bumper warranty expires, but I'm not in a hurry though as while I'm hoping the replaced part is better in quality, in case it is not I'd like it to last as long as possible after they fix it)
You may check the ATF every 6-months. If any of the symptoms mentioned above are observed, then replace the ATF. This situation may exist before the 30K miles or much after (i.e. 100K miles). For example the Mitsubishi dealer changed the ATF in my XLS after returning from my adventure to Alaska (Less than 20K miles). I was very surprised by this action because the ATF seemed to be OK. The technician drained all the ATF by removing the ATF drain plug under the car. The technician overflowed the ATF container producing undesirable effects (i.e. the auto transmission felt heavy and hesitating). I took the car to a private garage that corroborated my suspicious of too much ATF and subsequently he sucked about ½ Quart of Dia Queen ATF J2 from the ATF reservoir using an extractor connected to the ATF stick tube.
You may do this service yourself by buying (e.g. Wall-Mart) a graduated funnel and from an auto shop an oil extractor ($40) and use the same procedure mentioned above. The oil extractor container is usually graduated in fractions of Quarts. Drop the same quantity of fresh ATF extracted from the ATF vehicle reservoir through the ATF stick pipe. In other words, you take out a quantity of old ATF and add the same quantity of new ATF to the ATF reservoir.
Location is Southern Ontario, Canada, about an hour from Niagara Falls.
Less than 4000 miles driven per year.
Retired owner, usually avoids rush hour traffic.
Hauling mainly golf clubs.
No towing.
Quote from the Warranty and Maintenance Manual states "The Severe Maintenance Schedule best describes operating conditions in Canada and is the recommended maintenance schedule."
Canada's a big place and this seems like a big generalization so I'm looking for advice on how much lee-way an owner has in choosing a Severe or Regular maintenance schedule without running the risk of warranty issues?
Why is it not necessary to change the timing belt on the ES?
According to the following references:
Mitsubishi 4B1 engine on Wikipedia and
Miisubishi Motors Technology Review 2006 N0 18 by Masato TOJO and Akihito KUBO. The MIVEC 4B12 uses a "silent chain" to drive the double overhead camshafts which provide continuously variable timing on the inlet and exhaust valves.
My 2010 Outlander ES just got a whole lot more interesting!!
jonox
Gotta check if it's covered under the bumper to bumper warranty otherwise either I'll try tightening it myself or have my mechanic do it.