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I second the suggestion of using belt dressing. But if the squeaking returns, get it addressed by a mechanic. The belt may just need adjusting or it may be prematurely wearing.
Has anyone gotten any further with this? Can't afford $1700.
Thanks.
On my 2007 outlander XLS AWD, the steering clock spring was replaced at 66K miles (yes, just after warranty). Few months later (now 69K), there is a play at the steering center. Basically, while driving at slower speeds, if I turn the steering left or right slightly, I feel a slip, as if something is loose. The steering is responsive while making full turns, but from the center 15 degrees left and right, it is neither stiff nor responsive (ie. there is a lag).
I dropped off the vehicle at the dealer. The mechanic test drove it and said he did not notice anything unusual. But now I am feeling it always, so maybe I will take it back again. Before that I would like to get your views on what might be the problem. Already I spend 300 odd dollars for the clock spring, wondering how much more I need to shell out
Another issue: it is pretty cold out here..and in the morning during a cold start, my tail pipe throws white fumes like anything. I know in cold climate, this happens, but this year (4th year of ownership), the first 5 minutes of drive (even more while idling) is really really bad. The dealer said he could not find any leaks and that it might be vapor. Hope he is true.
All I can say is I regret the mitsu purchase :mad:
If the steering play you're feeling is eventually traced to the clock spring, then assuming you had Mitsu do the original repair it would be covered by a 12 month/12K mile warranty. Consider taking it to another dealer or asking to let you drive them so you can demonstrate the issue.
The white you're seeing is almost certainly vapor. If there was an emissions problem the CEL would come on. Look around at the other cars on the road and you'll see it everywhere.
Well I regret because I have spend a lot of time on things which were not easily identifiable starting with excessive noise (NVH). Nothing really broke..except clock spring (I can drive with this steering issue..the steering does not pull to one side), but the overall experience was not pleasant.
Anyone have more details on this proposed change?
I put it in D-Drive but it didnt move.
R-Reverse moves but after a chug sound.
Last Saturday, while filling the AC gas, another mech checked and noticed that the front shafts had damaged plastic covers that were replaced. But ATF fluid dripped from the tranny thru the removed shafts.
While topping the ATF, this fluid spilled on some wire harness and wire-sockets on the tranny next to the dip-stick opening.
This morning, when the D-Drive failed to move the car, I noticed an extra dull glow of the green light on N-Neutral on the dash-board indicator when the stick is in the D-Drive position.
No Check-Engine light came up. No blinking light on cluster.
Can this spilled ATF on these cable cause the tranny to fail like this?
What can I do to correct it?
I cant move the car to a scan centre.
Any ideas??
??
Hi,
Seems like it was indeed ELECTRICAL!
I topped up the ATF & took off the battery terminals since I couldnt lay hands on a mobile scanner.
The battery terminals stayed off for 3 days, and I reconnected it this morning. Checked that the atf level was ok.
Engaged D-position and d Outie MOVED FWD effortlessly the way it was supposed to! Reverse was also ok. The funny lights on the P D N were also gone.
Inasmuch as I want to take it for a spin, it's not leaving my garage until I get a scanned diagnosis done - incl the tranny control unit status. I dont want any surprises since the CUV is being driven by wifey (usu when carrying 2 under-5 girls). I wont want them getting stuck in Lagos (Nigeria) sun & traffic hazards.
My guess is that d tranny detected low atf level & entered limp mode to protect d tranny (?), or d spilled atf on d tranny cables triggered d limp mode.
Flushing off d spilled atf with water & removal of d batt possibly reset d ECU & TCU to default allowing original progmming to execute.
But I'll know for sure when I get d scan done. I'm kinda sacred driving it to a scan shop - I dont want it stalling on me halfway.
Rgds.
Tony.
That price from the dealer doesn't sound bad, if they're resurfacing the rotors. My guy didn't do that at first, they were squealing badly with the new pads, he had to remove them and have them cut.
The ABS system is something not commonly broken, that's probably why they don't have spare parts readily available. Maybe they have to ship it from Japan. You would be more worried if it was readily available, because that would mean they are anticipating a lot of repairs. That's just another way to look at it.
.
This problem is very rare in a vehicle with 40K miles. Generally the ABS sensor starts failing because corrosion has made its way into the delicate parts of the sensors. My Lexus SC300 is 14 years-old and the ABS light appeared on the control panel. I took the vehicle to a Lexus garage and I almost fainted when the price was quoted (which included sensors replacement + labour). I jacked up the car and cleaned thoroughly the 4-sensors with cleaning oil and indeed the 4-sensors were almost welded to the fix part joined to the wheels. I tried to unscrew them so I could check each of them individually but without success and even a screw snapped. I used a spanner and knocked the surrounding area of the sensor relatively hard in the hope that the vibration of the hitting would detach the very small corrosion inside the sensor that was interfering with the ABS sensor signals. Luckily the front sensor that I attacked first was the faulty one so I did not need to hit the other three.
It worked! I do not have the ABS icon light on anymore in the control dash.
I have the original battery in my '05 Lincoln LS, which the original owner bought new in "04. I think I'm gonna replace that one before winter.
Order an OEM Outlander battery according to the size of the engine and install it yourself. It is relatively easy and you will save $30-$50 on labour. You will note quick response in all your electronic stuff (e.g. windows closing/opening quicker, electrical seats moving faster, xenon headlamps brighter, etc)
But that's TPMS operating as it should and I've no problem with it. The question is why your caps were "glued" on. Maybe the stem-based TPMS sensors corrode easier. Maybe at some point tire inflator/fix-a-flat was used by a shop. Dunno; I can't say anything with certainty and you've given us food for thought. I'll double-check my tire caps later this morning.
As to the TPMS taking 1/8th mile to reset, that's normal. I've generally heard 10 minutes of driving does it and when I had aired my tires up it did take a few minutes of driving before the light turned off. Some sensors don't actually check the pressure but look for a tire that's rotating at a different rate than the other three; that indicates the tire isn't inflated to the same degree. I'm not sure what kind of sensors Mitsu is using.
With N2 I've only needed to top up one tire between service visits one time during the last 18 months. Caps no problem.
Nitrogen in the tires
It develops a leak. According to the folks who push nitrogen, the molecules are too big to get out so just the 24% Other gets out. I top it up with normal air again. It's now:
(76% + (76% of 24%)) Nitrogen, (24% of 24%) Other. Simplified, that's 94% Nitrogen, 6% Other.
The leak stays so that 6% Other eventually gets out. Top it up again and the tires are up to 98.5% Nitrogen and just 1.5% Other. At that point the leak probably won't go low enough to trigger the TPMS but if it does a final top-up will put it at 99.6% Nitrogen and 0.4% Other.
Now I've got nitrogen-filled tires and it didn't cost me anything other than the periodic top-up of the tires. My Outlander is 23 months old & I've only added air once. So for me that periodic top-up is rare enough to not matter.
Your calculation is interesting but info. from Steve is also worth a look.
Any thoughts about using versus Mobil 1?
Thanks.
As a guideline it's going to be whatever they did at the 30K service plus, depending on the your engine, the timing belt. There might be a couple of other things but the timing belt, if it needs replacing, would be the biggie. And if you do replace the timing belt go ahead & replace the other belts. It costs maybe $50 for the parts but there shouldn't be any added labor since they're already incurring the labor to get at the timing belt.
Since FM works you know it isn't an electrical or fuse issue. Nor has the head unit died. Though beyond the antenna it is still possible the head unit has an internal problem.
I looked under the hood and was pleased to find everything very easy to access and work on, I can name everything under the hood unlike some of the newer cars.
But what I want to know is the reliability in general, my pass experience is that mitsubishi has fairly good reliability in general.